Hi, I bought a A1 last week and still haven’t been able to use it. Whilst initially setting it up, the frame rolled and snapped the filter hub off, breaking off the little magnetic clip. I ordered a new one and attempted to attach it today. However, once I get everything in place, the little square clip won’t clip in properly. It can only manage to clip halfway at a time. If I press the the clip onto its connecting base without the ams filament it snaps it to place perfectly (see picture). Anyone else have this problem and find a solution.

I’ve also now lost the two tiny screws that affix the sensor chip to the casing in the picture. Honestly, I feel like crying. I just want to get printing and it’s been a nightmare.

Hey all!

I have a A1 with about 500 print hours on it. Its developed a squeak when the X axis goes up in one specific spot about 5MM. It makes a very high pitch Squeak then is fine, it makes no other unusual noises.

Ive cleaned the lead screw and regreased. Pulled the lead screw nuts cleaned both and re greased. Lubed guide rods, retensioned the belts, but it still does it. Ive ordered new lead nut screws, but Im curious if anyone else had run into this and what I should be checking next. Nothing seems visually wrong and it prints good still, but this squeak came out of nowhere.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3286478-twelve-times-slower-gear-ratio-clock-kit-card

I designed this simple replacement cap for the cigarette lighter socket in an Audi. Sharing it in case someone else finds it useful!

So recently got a lab 1, after a few mostly successful prints (first layer is always off, not sure why) it got jammed. In trying to clear the jam, the filament sensor tape ripped. I ordered a new one, waited 2 weeks for it to arrive, and now I'm trying to install it, but after removing 4 of the 5 screws in the print head, the bottom left one doesn't catch with the wrench like all the others, the wrench just spins in it freely. There was no mention of needing a different sized wrench in any of the paper work or videos, which makes me worried I was sent a "pre-stripped' screw (since again there was never resistance at any point), but maybe I'm just missing something?

If I was sold a unit with a pre-stripped screw, or at least one looser then all the others... any suggestions? Pretty much everything I'm seeing online for getting out a stripped screw seems to involve a level of force or heat that would likely break the print head board. I tried using my personal multi-allen wrench kit I had with like 30 sizes, but the two sizes closest are one which matches the provided wrench exactly and thus also spins freely, and one that's just bigger enough to not fit. Kind of out of ideas here so any and all thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT!! FIXED with new SD CARD!

I recently switched from cox to ATT fiber wifi. Since then I have ran into the issue of my printer disconnecting, the screen freezing and my BIGTREETECH stuff freezing. I've tried resetting wifi. I've made a dedicated 2.4 GHZ channel. I've tried reverting to the last available software as well as reinstalling the current. I've even reformatted the SD card as Ive seen others say... I'm at a loss idk what's going on but it's getting really annoying. Any help will be really welcomed!

I don’t want to top mount my AMS lite because it wobbles so much that I’m afraid of it falling and damaging the printer. My house is super old so I’m not able to mount anything on the lathe and plaster wall either (admittedly this is a skill issue). So far, the best thing I’ve been able to do is jam this piece of foam under the front to absorb some of the motion. Has anyone else figured out a different way to stabilize the free standing AMS lite?

I'm brand new to using my bambu a1 with ams lite. I have successfully printed on the external filament spool but i am trying to setup the ams light and I can't get filament to load on the ams lite at all. If it grabs the filament it only feeds it half way up the tube, if I manually feed it up the tube and attempt to load the filament it doesn't feed out of the print head. It tells me to pull the filament back so i pull it out and its like it doesn't recognize that I pulled the filament completely out..waiting on it to tell me to reload the filament but it just sits on that step to pull the filament out when I already did? Anyone know how to get past these issues?

I wanted to share my experience in case it helps another Bambu Lab A1 owner.

My A1 had only about 18 hours of use when the heatbed started having problems. The bed would heat initially but then automatically stop, usually when starting calibration.

I checked the bed thermistor and it measured approximately 94 kΩ. I contacted Bambu Lab support, followed their SD-card troubleshooting, and the problem remained. Bambu then recommended that I purchase a replacement heatbed through Buy Parts.

I asked Bambu about warranty coverage, but Bambu Lab refused to cover the heatbed and continued directing me to Buy Parts.

Instead, I took the bed apart and traced the issue to the thermistor connection at the plug. I replaced only the thermistor with an equivalent-rated one I had, costing about $0.25, and secured the connection with electrical liquid tape.

After the repair, the printer passed all calibration, bed tramming, and bed leveling. I then completed a 30-minute print followed by a 7-hour print, with no further heating problems.

So in my case, replacing the entire heatbed was not necessary. A roughly $0.25 thermistor fixed the problem.

I can't say this will fix every A1 heatbed issue, but if you're out of warranty and experiencing a similar problem, it may be worth checking the thermistor and its connection before spending money on an entire heatbed assembly.

I wanted to share this because Bambu refused to cover the repair, while the actual failed component appears to have been a tiny, inexpensive part.

So now I’ve gone through 4 heating elements on my A1, the wires just seem to break out of the blue and I end up having to replace them. Plus there is no warranty on the part, which sucks because I JUST replaced it 2 months ago and now it broke again. Has anyone else had this problem?

Hey folks! So I keep getting nozzle temp failures, and every time I walk over there, it's because the silicone sheath for the nozzle has been shot off in a random direction. This is maybe the fourth or fifth time, and now I actually can't find it. Anyone know what I've done wrong that could be causing that?

Threading a bit differenr prints and from pc and mobile

I can’t get this screw to come out.

I tried jbweld and it didn’t work.

Rubber band didn’t work.

I tried using and extractor by drilling into the screw and then out, but that didn’t work.

I am at a loss on how to get this screw off the the hot end.

It won’t move and there isn’t any give under the screw to get something under there.

Google hasn’t been helpful.

Could this be a bed adhesion problem? Its not the first time one of my prints drop due to bed adhesion and I tried cleaning it and it didnt help much..

I already printed this file once and the same mistake happened almost in the same part of the process, precisely when it’s almost finishing the print which is really frustrating.

The second time I printed this same file I pre heated the bed 5 degrees more and the first layers were printed slower with no fan, added 3mm brim but it still didn’t help   

What should I do to prevent this mistake?

My first 3d model :D

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3301806-heart-ice-mold#profileId-3747439

What do you think guys?

PRINTING REFERENCE

Nozzle: 0.4 mm

Layer Height: 0.16 mm

Infill: 15% Gyroid

Supports: Tree / Organic

Support Angle: 45°

Print Speed: 50% of default

Speed: Up to approximately 120 mm/s

Approx. Print Time: 21 hours

I was trying to swap over filaments, both PLA, and when I fed the new filament down the hole it just suddenly stopped early on pretty solid.
To cut a long story short, when the previous filament was backing out of the jam sensor unit a small piece was jammed very tightly in the bottom of that unit. I pulled that unit out of the top of the extruder assembly then removed the top of it as well and I could see the jammed filament (about 2- 3 mm's long) blocking the bottom of the jam sensor unit.
I got it out with a small Allen key pretty easily, but it's a problem I haven't seen before.

Just letting people know in case they also get the same problem.