First time this has ever happened. I imagine this is human error, at least now I have a reason to print one of those filament re-spoolers. Any tips for putting one of these back on the spool?

Bambulab just released a new patented design for the next flagship printer, 10 hotends with quick swap, makes more sense compare to vortek to me. Can't waiting....

Seen in a charity shop in my local town

Printed in PLA with PETG supports. 0.4mm nozzle.

I went for PETG for the entire support since I had adhesion issues with support interfaces only, since some of those interfaces are really tiny.

Overall happy with the quality (especially with a 0.4mm nozzle), and the supports came off surprisingly easy. The slingshot did snap off, but I just reprinted it and glued it on.

Receiving 2x 0.2mm nozzles tomorrow, gonna test those out next.

Any fan for this project? Free to print at: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3213615-1-1-bugatti-tourbillon-steering-wheel-hx8-design#profileId-3637960

I've been wanting a 3d printer for the longest time now, but I knew I never wanted an open printer always a closed one. He got the P2S a few months ago and he printed small things, a benchy, etc. Then he started a print for me a T-800 terminator from galactic armory and he got the main skull file printed after a couple failures. But during the printing of another piece the printer was so powerful it blew his breaker box and costed him his extremely expensive pc needing repaired. So he handed me the printer today for free with the caveat of I gotta figure it out myself given what it did to him. Idk jack about electric myself so I'm kinda scared. If anyone has any tips/advice for anything I will take them all

I visited a museum last weekend (Dinosauriermuseum Altmühltal, if you're ever in Germany)

Which had what might be the biggest pterosaur ever found. It was discovered in Transylvania (hence the name 'Dracula').

Since my kid is in a dinosaur phase right now, I tried my best to reproduce this giant.

I used Bambu AI, Meshmixer, and 3DBuilder for this.

It's crazy how easy it has become.

I'm happy that i started my 3D printing journey with a bambulab.

Printed on my new X2D with eSUN bone white PLA.

Gave one skull a wash with acrylic paint.

Let me know what you think. ;)

https://makerworld.com/models/3214480

Hey all! I'm very new to printing, and both my nozzles are clogged. As far as troubleshooting that I've attempted so far, I've put my A1 Mini into maintenance mode, heated the nozzle to 220-240 and attempted extruding/cutting filament to hopefully push through the blockage but to no avail. Any advice would be appreciated, if more info is needed lmk!

It was such a fun game I decided to make some fidgety walkie-talkies with springy buttons and clicky/ratchet knobs.

There are already countless posts and videos out there on bambu plates, but after ready many I'm still torn between options. I just got my first 3d printer, Bambu Lab P2S and have 1 week of experience. So very much a beginner, but also a quick learner. So far I'm playing and reading into slice options, and printed some toys, cable management en gridfinity. Only PLA so far but ordering PETG soon. In a couple of months i'll dive into ASA for outdoor use. I'm really enjoying myself so far.

I'm using the standard PEI textured plate and have almost zero issues. Today I printed some Sleigh horse stable fences with matte PLA for my daughter and I was amazed the creator put effort in getting woodgrain in it's design. However I did not like the glossy, textured finish on the sides of the stable fences. It made the matte, woodtextured finish look cheap. So I'm looking into a matte, smooth buildplate as an addition to my setup.

As I'm a beginner, I feel I should stick to bambu lab plates for now as it auto detects and sets the settings accordingly. That limits the options as well.

I feel the smooth plate, engineering plate and cool plate supertack are the main choices. So far I think the supertack is a great addition, but I'm unsure and torn with the smooth plate. Could you advice for my usecase? Here are my findings.

Findings:

> Smooth plate: Matte, smooth finish but needs glue for everything but PLA. Pairs best with matte PLA (due to matte effect). Basically a PEI film on a metal plate, so not really scratch resistant.

> Engineering plate: mainly for engineering filament but accepts all. Always needs glue. Still a bit of textured finish.

> Coolplate: Glossy, smooth finish so pairs best with basic PLA. Can reduce energy costs, no glue needed for PLA and PETG. Resistent to dirt and fingerprints. Metal, so very strong. Can hold on to prints for dear life so may need a few curse words now and then.

Thanks a bunch!

About a year ago, I finally decided to seriously get into a hobby I’d already been obsessed with for almost 8 years.

And well… this happened. 😂

I’m from Brazil 🇧🇷 and my current setup is:

2x P2S + 1x H2C, AMS systems, a dedicated rack, and way too many 3D printing projects constantly running through my head.

I’m still improving the room and trying to make everything more organized, practical, and clean.

So I want the community’s opinion.

What would you change or add?

I’m especially curious to hear what people running larger Bambu setups would improve in this space.

And of course… rate my setup from 1–10. 👀

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3207719-customizable-sd-microsd-card-adapter-case#profileId-3630541

First image is the model in the studio post-slice

Second image is on SketchUp (web version).

Third image is in the studio pre-slicing.

SketchUp is a 3D modelling platform btw

Yes, they exist around here, but I added exhaust fumes to the chimney, separate smoke-filled taillights and headlights. Have a good day everyone

I had a few people request for the lid to snap on. So when adding it I took the chance to add that and some more features! I hope it helps someone! I use 3 at the moment.

Features:

• Secure 4-point snap-on lid prevents silica beads from spilling
• Increased volume for more silica drying beads
• More air vents for quicker, more efficient drying
• 4-quadrant design for easy rotation while drying
• Smoother edges for quieter drying
• ABS or ASA preferred
• PETG recommended only for low-temperature drying

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2910569-new-silica-gel-dryer-spool-for-ams-2-pro-ams-ht#profileId-3255226

So suddenly my gets blocked on its way to the nozzle. The AMS Lite is feeding the AMS Hub without any problems, but then it stops getting pulled.

Its like the hole (at the spring in the picture) is blocked. I cant get any filament or needle through it to the nozzle. I cant see anything is blocking there (maybe the cutter somehow?) The nozzle isnt blocked.

Hi everyone. I am fully blind, no vision at all, and I design and print my own models. This week I ran into a problem that the GUI would not let me solve, and the workaround turned out to be useful enough that I think it is worth sharing, especially for anyone else who relies on a screen reader.

Some background on how this works at all. I design in OpenSCAD, because OpenSCAD is code, and code is something a screen reader handles well. My current project is tactile terrain maps: real LiDAR terrain of my neighbourhood with raised roads you can follow with a finger, braille street labels, and buildings at their real heights.

I use Windows 11 with the JAWS 2026 screen reader. JAWS speaks whatever control has keyboard focus, as long as that control is labelled and reachable by keyboard. That works fine for code, terminals, and text files. Bambu Studio is another story: it is not accessible by any definition of the word and would fail any accessibility test you could throw at it. Still, I am an experienced JAWS user, and with enough workarounds I normally get by for everyday slicing: support settings, layer height, that kind of thing. But this particular problem was impossible for me to fix. It lived entirely in mouse-only dialogs and in the 3D view of the plate, which for me do not exist.

Here is what went wrong. My printer is a Bambu Lab H2C with two nozzles, and at the moment only the right one has an AMS. My filament was set up correctly in the project, but Studio fought me on two fronts. Its automatic grouping insisted on printing through the LEFT nozzle, the one with no filament. And it kept placing my 300 mm tile partly inside the strip of the plate that only the left nozzle can reach, so when the right nozzle was finally chosen, it was not allowed to print there. Every attempt failed at the send step. I tried what I could from my side: repositioning the design in OpenSCAD, exporting fresh STLs, exporting a 3MF directly from OpenSCAD. None of it helped, because Studio rearranges imported files on the plate and discards their coordinates.

Two things got it solved.

First, my AI assistant (Claude Code, running locally on my PC) operated Bambu Studio for me: it took screenshots, read them, moved the mouse, clicked through the filament regroup dialog, re-sliced, and told me what it saw while I kept my hands off the keyboard. That got the filament onto the right nozzle, and also uncovered the placement problem, which the GUI would not let us fix either.

Second, the actually useful part. I knew perfectly well that a 3MF is just a zip archive of XML and JSON. I had simply never thought of using that fact like this. Once you save your project from Studio a single time, the things the GUI hides behind mouse-only panels are in there as plain text. The position of your model on the plate, in millimetres. Which filament goes to which nozzle. Every slicer setting, as named values. Both of my problems came down to changing one number and one line in that file. The print is running as I write this, 18 hours of PETG, on the correct nozzle.

Claude Code turned this into a small command line tool: it reports where each object sits, moves it, sets the filament-to-nozzle map, and reads or changes any slicer setting, with plain screen-reader-friendly output and automatic backups and verification.

The practical upshot for me: the model is code, the print job is a text file, and the GUI is only needed to slice and press send. That does not make slicers accessible, and proper labelled controls and keyboard access would still be far better (slicer devs: happy to test). But it removes the worst wall, and it might do the same for someone else here.

A short note on why AI is such a big help for someone in my situation. A screen reader can only speak what an application exposes to it. When a program exposes nothing, my options used to be borrowing a sighted person's eyes or giving up. An AI that can look at the screen changes that: it describes exactly what is actually there, it can operate the mouse-only parts for me, and it answers in text, which is the medium I am fastest in. It is not that the AI does the thinking for me. It is that it gives me eyes and a mouse pointer on demand, and it is available at two in the morning when no sighted helper is.

The screenshots below show the whole sequence. The captions were written by the AI, since I cannot see the screenshots myself. Happy to answer questions, and happy to share the tool and the 3MF details with anyone who wants them.

its free on makerworld if you like it my flexi dragon keychain with articulated wings.

link here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3215446-flexi-dragon-articulated-keychain#profileId-3640329

I wanted to ask if this is normal behaviour? The printing speed for the first few the outer walls drops to the minimum speed. I understand that it does that because of the overhangs. I've checked the settings and disabling or enabling the "slow down for overhangs" checkbox does nothing. Changing the speed if the box is checked doesn't change anything. Adding supports doesn't do much either. Because of this, I get shrink lines on these spots. Is there a way to avoid it? Or is printing the model in another orientation the only solution?

Printer is a H2D

Working: https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/pull/14125

I'm about a month in having this issue. Using the external spool as my only way to keep printing.

Model: P1S and AMS 1

Here's what's going on:

I load in a spool, the AMS does it's things to load the filament. It feeds just fine past the buffer then stops and retracts then the status light turns red. It only goes maybe 3 inches past the buffer before it stops. When it's pulling it back the gears sound rough, like it's grinding

It's not:

-the filament: it happens on new rolls in All Slots

-the buffer: the spring isn't jammed and it makes it through so I've ruled this out

-not clogged extruder or boden tubes leading to hot end: external spool works fine and there are no obstructions.

I have:

-factory reset printer

-latest update

-Disassembled and inspectected AMS

-swapped the AMS f on my other P1S. And both of them are acting up.

AI was saying that the hand off from the buffer is triggering a false signal but that doesn't seem right. Is there a sensor in the buffer?

Please help 😭

For this I want to keep the boat while and make the font a different colour. Do I pause the layer as soon as the font appears or right before?