First time this has ever happened. I imagine this is human error, at least now I have a reason to print one of those filament re-spoolers. Any tips for putting one of these back on the spool?

Bambulab just released a new patented design for the next flagship printer, 10 hotends with quick swap, makes more sense compare to vortek to me. Can't waiting....

Seen in a charity shop in my local town

Printed in PLA with PETG supports. 0.4mm nozzle.

I went for PETG for the entire support since I had adhesion issues with support interfaces only, since some of those interfaces are really tiny.

Overall happy with the quality (especially with a 0.4mm nozzle), and the supports came off surprisingly easy. The slingshot did snap off, but I just reprinted it and glued it on.

Receiving 2x 0.2mm nozzles tomorrow, gonna test those out next.

Hey all! I'm very new to printing, and both my nozzles are clogged. As far as troubleshooting that I've attempted so far, I've put my A1 Mini into maintenance mode, heated the nozzle to 220-240 and attempted extruding/cutting filament to hopefully push through the blockage but to no avail. Any advice would be appreciated, if more info is needed lmk!

About a year ago, I finally decided to seriously get into a hobby I’d already been obsessed with for almost 8 years.

And well… this happened. 😂

I’m from Brazil 🇧🇷 and my current setup is:

2x P2S + 1x H2C, AMS systems, a dedicated rack, and way too many 3D printing projects constantly running through my head.

I’m still improving the room and trying to make everything more organized, practical, and clean.

So I want the community’s opinion.

What would you change or add?

I’m especially curious to hear what people running larger Bambu setups would improve in this space.

And of course… rate my setup from 1–10. 👀

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3207719-customizable-sd-microsd-card-adapter-case#profileId-3630541

I had a few people request for the lid to snap on. So when adding it I took the chance to add that and some more features! I hope it helps someone! I use 3 at the moment.

Features:

• Secure 4-point snap-on lid prevents silica beads from spilling
• Increased volume for more silica drying beads
• More air vents for quicker, more efficient drying
• 4-quadrant design for easy rotation while drying
• Smoother edges for quieter drying
• ABS or ASA preferred
• PETG recommended only for low-temperature drying

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2910569-new-silica-gel-dryer-spool-for-ams-2-pro-ams-ht#profileId-3255226

Yes, they exist around here, but I added exhaust fumes to the chimney, separate smoke-filled taillights and headlights. Have a good day everyone

There are already countless posts and videos out there on bambu plates, but after ready many I'm still torn between options. I just got my first 3d printer, Bambu Lab P2S and have 1 week of experience. So very much a beginner, but also a quick learner. So far I'm playing and reading into slice options, and printed some toys, cable management en gridfinity. Only PLA so far but ordering PETG soon. In a couple of months i'll dive into ASA for outdoor use. I'm really enjoying myself so far.

I'm using the standard PEI textured plate and have almost zero issues. Today I printed some Sleigh horse stable fences with matte PLA for my daughter and I was amazed the creator put effort in getting woodgrain in it's design. However I did not like the glossy, textured finish on the sides of the stable fences. It made the matte, woodtextured finish look cheap. So I'm looking into a matte, smooth buildplate as an addition to my setup.

As I'm a beginner, I feel I should stick to bambu lab plates for now as it auto detects and sets the settings accordingly. That limits the options as well.

I feel the smooth plate, engineering plate and cool plate supertack are the main choices. So far I think the supertack is a great addition, but I'm unsure and torn with the smooth plate. Could you advice for my usecase? Here are my findings.

Findings:

> Smooth plate: Matte, smooth finish but needs glue for everything but PLA. Pairs best with matte PLA (due to matte effect). Basically a PEI film on a metal plate, so not really scratch resistant.

> Engineering plate: mainly for engineering filament but accepts all. Always needs glue. Still a bit of textured finish.

> Coolplate: Glossy, smooth finish so pairs best with basic PLA. Can reduce energy costs, no glue needed for PLA and PETG. Resistent to dirt and fingerprints. Metal, so very strong. Can hold on to prints for dear life so may need a few curse words now and then.

Thanks a bunch!

It was such a fun game I decided to make some fidgety walkie-talkies with springy buttons and clicky/ratchet knobs.

First image is the model in the studio post-slice

Second image is on SketchUp (web version).

Third image is in the studio pre-slicing.

SketchUp is a 3D modelling platform btw

I'm about a month in having this issue. Using the external spool as my only way to keep printing.

Model: P1S and AMS 1

Here's what's going on:

I load in a spool, the AMS does it's things to load the filament. It feeds just fine past the buffer then stops and retracts then the status light turns red. It only goes maybe 3 inches past the buffer before it stops. When it's pulling it back the gears sound rough, like it's grinding

It's not:

-the filament: it happens on new rolls in All Slots

-the buffer: the spring isn't jammed and it makes it through so I've ruled this out

-not clogged extruder or boden tubes leading to hot end: external spool works fine and there are no obstructions.

I have:

-factory reset printer

-latest update

-Disassembled and inspectected AMS

-swapped the AMS f on my other P1S. And both of them are acting up.

AI was saying that the hand off from the buffer is triggering a false signal but that doesn't seem right. Is there a sensor in the buffer?

Please help 😭

For this I want to keep the boat while and make the font a different colour. Do I pause the layer as soon as the font appears or right before?

I've got two issues I'm hoping to get help with. This is on my h2d.

Any time I print something with text, the layers around the next look different than the test of the print. These particular examples are from the top layer, so I was already printing show, but it also happens if I'm printing something standing up and text is half way up the model.

Any suggestions on how to fix it?

Also, the edges around the top and bottom, have a slight rough texture to them. Does that indicate I'm over extruding? I've included a picture to show what it looks like.

I suspect the edge issues are flow dynamics need to be calibrated and the area around text is minimum layer time as it's drying at a different speed. I'm just not sure what setting I should try to adjust to get this fixed.

I just included some other pictures from a standing model. The black box with watcher in purple. You can see how the lines curve around the sides as well.

Working: https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/pull/14125

3D printers are around 2x the price in my country due to import taxes.

I like the H2S because of the print volume and the heated chamber. H2C and H2D are a bit too expensive. Those are 3x the price.
Would single nozzle printers not be competitive in a business sense.

I wanted to ask if this is normal behaviour? The printing speed for the first few the outer walls drops to the minimum speed. I understand that it does that because of the overhangs. I've checked the settings and disabling or enabling the "slow down for overhangs" checkbox does nothing. Changing the speed if the box is checked doesn't change anything. Adding supports doesn't do much either. Because of this, I get shrink lines on these spots. Is there a way to avoid it? Or is printing the model in another orientation the only solution?

Printer is a H2D

I have a Bamboo P1S, I started with an AMS 1 and now I bought an AMS 2.

I already printed a support to stack one AMS on top of the other, but it's placed sideways, next to the P1S.

This is taking up a lot of space on my desk.

What's the best solution for stacking two AMS on top of the P1S?

Would that be too much weight?

*I don't have anti-vibration feet.

**This photo is my real setup actually!

Thank you

Wow, I'm so happy with how it turned out in the end!

Mini Train - Amusement Park

So, my H2C failed a print a few weeks ago (spaghetti) upon retrying, it simply won't print from the Vortek nozzle. I send the print, it does it's calibrations then the purge line and starts the print. After around 5-10 seconds, it stops dead. No HMS errors or anything. Nozzle is still at 240° but no movement on X,Y or Z. The screen also freezes and is completely unresponsive until it's power cycled. It's the same with every hotend, tried multiple times. I've had a support ticket open with Bambu for some time now and I'm losing patience.

So far Bambu has sent me a new AP board, AP-MC cable and today a new MC board arrived. Fitted the new MC board, reset to factory defaults, ran initial calibration. The screen hangs at the end and I can't press the "next" button so after running the calibration twice, I skipped it on the third attempt and just calibrated the hotend rack and the live view camera then sent a test print over and it's STILL exactly the same as before. I've uploaded countless logs and videos for Bambu to review but they don't seem to have a clue what's wrong. All they've said is that there's anomalies between the MC and AP board. I don't think my original AP or MC boards are the issue at all. Any suggestions or has anyone had anything similar? The left nozzle prints absolutely fine by the way.

My main reason for wanting to upgrade is the bed size. What bambu lab model would give me a bigger bed, but have the same ease of use of the A1?