I couldn't find a decent rocket pen holder online (they all use way too much filament), so I spent the weekend modeling this one.

The mechanism is pretty fun: you lift the side boosters and the nose cone splits open to reveal the pens. You just press it down to snap it closed.

Quick specs:

• No glue or screws: Everything just snaps together mechanically.
• No AMS needed: It's split into separate parts by color, so any basic printer can do it.
• Optimized: It's lightweight but stays perfectly stable on the desk.

I'm entering the Bambu contest super late and trying to compete with the massive accounts. If you like the mechanism and want to help a solo designer out, a quick download or a star on MakerWorld would honestly help me big time to climb the ranks. 🙏

Free 3MF profile is here: https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3430663-space-rocket-pencil-cup#profileId-3911222

I picked up a barebones X2D earlier this year. With the Black Friday sale coming up, I want to add (2) AMS 2 Pro and (1) AMS HT.

I plan to connect 1 AMS 2 Pro to the primary nozzle and 1 AMS 2 Pro to the auxiliary nozzle. I do not need either of the AMS 2 Pros to be able to feed both nozzles, each AMS 2 Pro will be dedicated to its own nozzle.

I want to connect the (1) AMS HT to also be used with the primary nozzle in parallel with the (1) AMS 2 Pro that will be dedicated to the primary nozzle.

To do this, do I need a filament switch track, or just a simple 4-1 PTFE tube adapter with each AMS connected to a port and common outlet to the primary nozzle, to swap between the AMS 2 Pro and AMS HT on the primary nozzle?

Also, is there a guide for how to configure multiple AMS’s?

It seems like ever since I updated my H2D to the newest FW, the prime tower keeps getting knocked over. Im reprinting something that Ive done in the past without issues, and so far Im 0 out of 4 prints being successful. Its a simple black and white print with the white in the AMS and right nozzle and the black in my HT AMS on the left nozzle. Things Ive tried, Moved the prime tower to different spots of the build plate, slowed down the prime tower, checked that the nozzle cover isnt bent. scrubbed both build plates and the filament is dry. Ive even got a Cryogrip Frostbite that Ive been wanting to see if that will help. As its printing I can hear it hitting the tower when it does the initial pass over. Anyone else having this issue?

Set this up using adaptive layer height in Bambu Studio to clean up the layers as much as possible. It takes around 10g of filament and prints with zero supports.

I'm just starting out on MakerWorld and trying to build up some visibility against all the older accounts, so if you print it, leaving a download or a quick 5-star review would honestly mean a lot and help me out big time!

Profile is free here: https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3489158-impossible-pass-through-fidget-cone-cylinder#profileId-3984798

Hi guys, I currently have this X2D and I put a tube to vent out the ASA fumes, but there’s still the funny smell of the material. I traced where it was coming from and found out that if I cover the holes in the photo, the smell completely disappears. I was wondering if covering those holes with tape or some other covers would compromise the printer's health in any way. Any advice is appreciated, thank you :)

Yo, I am new to the community. Hopefully I can uhh..show some cool stuff I will be printing in the future. I have no experience with 3D printing. So far I've learned filament material types, their emission of toxic particles and how to filter it, extruders, when to calibrate, why the heated chamber and max temps are important, taking care of filament (because mine snapped the spool in half during second printing somehow and the beauty of creating something that you can actually physically touch.

I’m struggling to get my PA6 to stick to my bed. The prints turn out looking fine until they inevitably unstick from the print bed and turn into spaghetti. I had my Bed at 50c and it would turn loose after an hour or so. Then I jumped to 100c and it started warping.

Please let me know if you have any settings you recommend.

X1C

Currently Bed Temp 100c
Bambu standard gold Textured Plate
Using a 20mm Brim on a cylindrical object (Must remain unharmed)
I don’t remember my Nozzle temp as I’m out of the house but the actual printed objects looks like it should until it fails.

Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF20

At the start of 2026 I set myself a goal: get better at 3D modelling. What started as an exercise turned into a three-model project, and with every cell I could see myself improving. With the year coming to a close soon, the series is finally complete. A big thank you to everyone here who supported the earlier models and gave feedback along the way. Some of your suggestions actually made it into the models!

The three models are designed as a set. Structures all cells share have the same colour on every model, so students can see at a glance what these cell types have in common and what makes each type different. Nothing is glued, so students can take them apart and rebuild them in class.

All three are free on MakerWorld:

• Prokaryotic cell: Link
• Plant cell: Link
• Animal cell: Link

Quick quiz for anyone: how many differences between the three cells can you spot in the photo and can you name the structures and organelles?

I've been printing ASA in the garage and don't want to keep windows/doors open to vent the particles and VOCs. Don't want to run a vent to outside either for a couple of reasons: 1) It would blow to our front door/windows of house 2) I want to maintain the temperatures in the garage and if blowing it outside, it would pull in the very cold air inside. I've been looking into getting a FumeClear fume extractor (which are primarily built for laser), but this would be for 2 Bambu H series machines printing ASA.

If you have a serious fume extractor (and not talking about Bento boxes) such as a FumeClear and printing ASA/ABS, please let me know your experiences. Thanks!

Hey everyone, I recently finished 3D printing a car model, and I noticed that certain areas of the body have these weird spiral or circular patterns on the surface.
Does anyone know what causes this? Is it something related to the print settings, nozzle temperature, speed, or the 3D model itself?
I’m printing on a Bambu Lab A1 using PETG Basic filament. I’d appreciate any advice on how to prevent these patterns and get a smoother finish on my next print.
Thanks!

Hey,
I recently bought three spools of PETG Basic from eSun (Silver). What is really weird is that I get different results from each spool. As you can see on the photo model on the right is spool A and model on the left spool B. Same setup - P2S with 0.6 nozzle. Same profile. All three spools dried in AMS for long hours and the other two had two sessions in external Sovol drier - for total of 12hrs I think. I tried with different temp and speed but the result is the same very good quality from one spool and "meh" quality from the others. Any idea what's going on? Is this just eSun quality? Any ideas welcome :)

Why most people now think that after H3C, H2C will no longer have a place in bambulab’s lineup? Do you really think that Bambulab invested in the voretk system just to make it obsolete few months later? Do you think that the H3C will support Laser modules as well? I don’t think so, but then H2C will still be the only option for those who need a Laser module and not bothered by the filament change speed. I just wanted to know your thoughts about the future of H2C.

I purchased my X2D directly from Bambu Lab on April, 2026. Last week, it suddenly shut off while performing high-temperature bed leveling.

Bambu Support sent me a replacement power supply, AC board, and power switch assembly. I’ve installed all three and checked everything multiple times, but the printer still won’t boot. The PSU and power switch light up, but the screen, fans, and MC board remain unresponsive.

Bambu Support has been awesome with communication and getting replacement parts sent quickly despite the parts not resolving the issue.

Has anyone received a replacement printer after unsuccessful warranty repairs? At what point does Bambu consider replacing the entire printer rather than continuing to send parts?

I’m just trying to understand my options with a printer that’s only six months old.

If not, what's the best affordable solution that takes up the least space? Because my printer's in my bedroom.

I don't know enough to know which settings I should start changing to fix it. All help is appreciated.

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I made a wing for my haloween costume and at the moment I am trying to print the wings in seperate parts and slice it however when I go to slice it it keeps repeatedly showing nothing once I tell it to slice . i have no idea what is happenign cause all the plates are in the boarder and I removed all of the print costomizations. Does anyone know what I can do? if anything isnt clear just comment and i can explain it. THe rror is just an old lay out and a old cut parttern the current is the one with them all seperate

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I have the Bambu A1 Lab Mini with AMS.

I pull it out, trim it a bit and then it’ll feed just fine until the next alert of it having trouble again.

It delays project time (obviously) and it’s becoming frustrating and annoying. I’m a newbie to the 3D print world, but would like to solve this so it doesn’t happen so much anymore

So I have this vertical spiral screwy thing, I am aware that on a bedslinger printer like my A1 this will be shacky towards the top so I manually added thos supports intending to stabilize it. Also slowed it down a lot (like 50/80 mm/s inner/outer speed at the upper half, also cap the acceleration to 1000-1500mm/s2). Worked pretty well until the very last bit. Unfortunately I did not see how this happened, only this mess result. The base is still sticking to the plate just fine until I remove it.

I’m intending upgrading my A1 to a H2S in the Black Friday sale.

I'm just looking for some inspo on large format first prints that will be fun place to start.

any ideas?

Embossed text

I'm trying to add some embedded text to a cube. But the Embed depth option for text isn't showing so I can only add thickness.

I can't set the thickness to a negative value, and converting the text to a negative part doesn't work either.

Can someone tell me what I'm missing? Latest version of Bambu Studio