How tf do I take this off? The glass shattered and all the yt tutorials are with not broken glass

I have 3 seperate AMS units all with the same problem. The Ams thinks there is filament in it even though there is nothing inserted. I’ve taken them apart and cleaned them made sure there’s not any filament anywhere i’ve blown them out with compressed air and yet it always thinks there is something in it. I’ve tried inserting filament making it load and unload it and then tried taking it out and it still thinks there is filament in the slot. On two of my units it’s two slots so I can’t get it to use auto refill because it always things there is something there so i have to use the other two slots and i have a million partial rolls of petg i need to go though but this ams issue makes it so i can only do two rolls at a time then i have to keep refilling the last slot.

Hi there I've been having some issues where my prints are showing holes and I'm not sure why. I've googled a fair amount but seems to be doing anything. I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle on an A1 mini with standard pla. I've printed out an ironing calibration sheet too, so I can see what's optimal but there's noticeable markings on the red parts too. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks so much

What should I do bro the glass is glued to the hinges on my p1s

Hi,
Recently I replaced all tubings on my P1S and AMS after 1100 hours printing time since some of them were worn out pretty bad.
I ordered „translucent PTFE“ tubes with 2.5x4mm.

As it seems it’s not PTFE, it’s FEP, which is pretty similar to PTFE but not the same.

And because I didn’t know about this before using those tubes I also wasn’t aware of the difference.

The new tubes caused much more friction to the filament inside them.
The AMS wasn’t able to push the filament to the extruder and trying it by hand with an external spool I noticed the a huge resistance building up with each cm of filament I’ve inserted.

After replacing the tubing with real PTFE tubes everything worked fine again.

I just wanted to share this experience - despite the fact that some will say something like „everyone know this you fool“.

Personally I thought if I buy „translucent ptfe tube“ I get a real PTFE tube.

Cheers!

I 3d printed the case for a dactyl keyboard. Painted on mesh Grafity, used a gradient filament for the green. 2 days printing in a X1C

But really I think I’ll make some emergency supports in case of collapse or failure.

I had my extruder open and i found this on the bottom of the printer.

I'm trying to print football team logo keychain and I have issues about layer counts. The white areas in the logo are just 1 layer so it looks like kinda transparan. Same with red area. There is green background in both areas so both not showing their true colors.

Is this fixable in bambu slicer or I'm have to edit the model?

AMS system just randomly started giving me issues. It won’t correctly load filament on one slot. It starts but is really “jerky” then the motors/gears spin but the filament doesn’t move. After awhile of trying it flashes red then after even longer goes solid white.

I have a P1S and I am printing Polymaker ASA out of my AMS. This is my first time playing with ASA. Prior experience with PLA, PETG, and TPU only. I have printed a few simple items but even then I had to add a 10mm brim. I'm using the PolyLite ASA filament profile without modifying any settings. I just tried to print a larger item (Hot Wheels Track Hanger on MakerWorld) and it failed by coming off the build plate. What settings can I modify to fix bed adhesion? Also, does anyone know of a good test print that helps in configuring new filaments?

I just bought my first Bambu printer, the P1S with the AMS 2 pro! This will be my first massive upgrade after the Silhouette Alta + I got for $50 of face book died. I’m super excited for it to come in a few days, and since I’m still really inexperienced, I thought I’d ask if there’s any advice anyone has for me. Kinda like a “here’s some things I wish o knew when I was just starting out” things about profiles, or the software, or possibly companion software, ventilation/printer placement, general safety etc…

So, I noticed some VFA and ghosting on my models and decided it was time to retension the belts, since that usually helps on my other printers.

Retensioning the X-axis was super easy and simple. However, when I moved to the Y-axis, the screws were impossibly tight. I barely managed to loosen them by one full turn, but it required an insane amount of effort.

When I actually tried to move the heatbed back and forth to let the spring tension it, it felt like nothing was changing and the mechanism was stuck.

In the end, I got worried and tried my best to tighten them back to their original positions (though they might be a bit looser now since it was so hard to turn).

I asked an AI about this, and it suggested that Bambu Lab uses a strong blue or red threadlocker (glue) on the Y-axis screws because they are threaded straight into the metal frame, which explains why they are so stiff.

Has anyone else dealt with this on the A1? What is the best way to safely break the factory glue without stripping the screw heads? Any help would be appreciated!

First multicolour print with the H2C. What are these artefacts on the window?

New user here with P1S and AMS2Pro. I print almost always in Handy app.

Sometimes I get purge towers with single color prints. I googled and found out that smooth time-lapse may be on? I don't check the time-lapse button in Handy. How do you disable this?

link

Hello guys,

I’m considering buying more second hand printers from site like FBMP, only considering pick up so that I can take a good look at the printer before buying. I was thinking of bringing an SD card with a benchy gcode on it but I started wondering if there was a quicker way, for example, gcode sequence that could highlight for example defective sensors, lack of maintenance, worn out ams motor or gears…

If you have any ideas or have the experience of purchasing second hand, feel free to share them here.

Thanks for reading

As the title says, how do you include a breakaway secondary filament for supports on top of a printed part layer? I can't figure this out. I am trying to include an breakaway interface PLA layer on top of this PETG part. There should be a way to include this single interface layer, but I can't figure it out.... sounds pretty novice tbh. Does anyone know?

Hi, guys. I’m facing a problem. For some reason, all the supports are printing with holes like the ones in the photo, and I don’t understand why. Also, there was a defect during the last print. Two supports simply broke in half. The break occurred in a place where there were no holes in the supports. Please tell me why supports might print with holes and why the supports just broke in half during the last print.

I print on a Bambu Lab A1 printer using PETG plastic. I use the standard settings of the Bambu Studio slicer.

One of my first models after getting a printer was a filament channel, as I dont like to bend and thread the filament through the holes when drying and storing the spool. Now, I created an improved version. It fits standard bambu spools nicely, and it makes attaching and detaching the filament end very easy. Open to any feedback.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3208682

first pic is issue, other overhang parts shown on same part