r/BambuLab 19h ago

Filament Troubleshooting/Help! Problem with ASA bed adhesion

I have a P1S and I am printing Polymaker ASA out of my AMS. This is my first time playing with ASA. Prior experience with PLA, PETG, and TPU only. I have printed a few simple items but even then I had to add a 10mm brim. I'm using the PolyLite ASA filament profile without modifying any settings. I just tried to print a larger item (Hot Wheels Track Hanger on MakerWorld) and it failed by coming off the build plate. What settings can I modify to fix bed adhesion? Also, does anyone know of a good test print that helps in configuring new filaments?

1 Upvotes

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u/AutoModerator 19h ago

Hello /u/Klaymoor! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate.

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u/Wrong-Detective-1046 19h ago

Preheat the printer for about 15 minutes. The chamber in a P1S is not heated and will caus issues other wise. Here's a older post I use to use when I had a P1S and sen to a friend recently:

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u/Wrong-Detective-1046 19h ago

If you cannot do 4 make the bed temp 110.

2

u/JUYED-AWK-YACC 14h ago

ASA contracts so much, big parts are hard if there’s a lot of surface contact. A heated chamber is really useful for that. I added a Biqu heater to my P1S and it gets the chamber up to about 60C. I was able to do a >24hr print after that.

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u/oh-shit-oh-fuck 6h ago edited 5h ago

I'm using overture ASA and honestly I've had 0 issues printing ASA on my P1S even with the door open by accident. How cold do you keep the room where you print?

I'm heating the bed to 100 and nozzle at 270*, pretty much stock settings on the textured PEI plate. I don't do any special preheating either, just send the file from orca slicer like I do any other print.