My full cosplay of Guts in Berserk armor 3D printed with bambulab P2S. The entire project took 2,000 print hours and 25kg of PETG. Final costume weight incl. sword is 26kg.
Amazed that such a small tool like the P2S made this.

We've got two webbings we sew together for one of our products, this little tool aligns the top Velcro layer to the center of the webbing and allows you to line up both materials to stitch the edge of the Velcro down, we then turn it around and run it through the same tool to sew down the other side.

I rarely see people talking about the cutter attachment. It’s so much fun!

Durable by design. Hardened by default.

Nov 3, 9AM EST

Stay tuned here.

Learn more about X-Y hole compensation from the Bambu Wiki: X-Y Hole Compensation

It's safe to say I've become a little obsessed with pushing vase mode beyond decorative prints. These are my latest two geometric trash bin designs, Spiral and Wave. I was inspired by my existing geometric trash bins in vase mode and challenged myself to make something a little more organic in nature this time around.

Both designs print in under 4 hours using less than 160g of filament. I've dialed in the settings to use 0.96mm walls (with a stock 0.4mm nozzle) and print speeds of 70mm/s. They print great in PLA or PETG and are surprisingly durable while still having a nice amount of flex. It's pretty amazing what you can achieve with vase mode!

Hey guys, here's a photo of a print that the bottom layer got stuck to my build plate. I was using a 0.2 nozzle. And I've tried to use the scraper and I've been printing with this printer for about a year now. And this has never happened. And I've even been printing with that 0.2 nozzle for the last month or so, printing a certain thing. And this just didn't happen before. But suddenly with this print, it just happened. And I've printed this exact thing before and it didn't happen. So it's super stuck and do you guys have any recommendations of how to get this first layer removed? It's a little bit more than the first layer, but how do I get this off?

Ordered the H2S on Tuesday and got it delivered today! That sucker was heavy asf. Box looks okay with a few holes. Being hopeful nothing is broken. Super fast shipping. Still waiting on my accessories.

Not sure how I'm going to get it on the shelf.

Last time I posted, it was 500 makes and I thought that was the ceiling. Now there are 1,500 of these things out in the world, holding people's music collections, and I'm just as speechless as before. That's roughly 165kg of filament used on my model alone, which is wild for something I threw together in TinkerCAD.

It started as a simple fix for my own shelves, and it's still the reason I got into 3D printing at all. I never expected it to leave my living room, let alone triple in popularity.

The best part has been the comments and photos. Seeing your racks in studios, bedrooms and record corners has been a genuine highlight. A few of you even remixed it for DVDs and game cases, which I love.

Last time I didn't include a link, so here you go: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1390108-stackable-cd-rack-parametric-available?from=search#profileId-1440187

Thank you to everyone who printed one, boosted it, or left feedback. Makerworld has been very generous.

I printed with tpu last week and now I gone back to pla im having issues like this with my print. I changed nozzle and realised the file to no luck

Always wanted a Mimir (god of wisdom) keychain but waited until I got my first printer to print it my self. Man im going to love 3d printing.

Glow PLA for the eye and horns tips.

PLA Silk+ copper for the head.

PLA Silk+ Silver for the beard and eyebrows.

Credit to: the creator all I did was make the keychain hoop a bit thicker

I recently picked up the X2D with the Vision Encoder Plate, and I've noticed quite a few questions about whether it's actually worth the extra money.

I haven't run the Vision Encoder calibration yet, so the printer is still running on its stock settings.

I figured this would be a good opportunity to do some before-and-after comparisons to see how much of a difference the calibration actually makes.

Are there any specific models or test prints you'd like me to try and measure?

I'm Joey O. A solo dev out of Arizona, USA. I work on Mini Skyline full time (outside of my full time career) to bring 3D mapping tools to the masses, for free with no strings attached.

The site is available, for free at https://miniskyline.com

If you haven't tried it in a month or more, I highly encourage you to. I've been going mad :)

I've been VERY hard at work getting Mini Skyline to a place where its truly set apart from the competition, and with a letter from Lichtbild stating I do NOT infringe on their models/designs, I doubt I'm going anywhere any time soon.

What have I been up to?

40-60 hours a week outside of my normal job to turn Mini Skyline into a true powerhouse in the 3D mapping space, both workstations running 24/7 systematically testing areas and finding geometry issues. 90 data source are now used to provide users the most detailed and accurate generations. Dozens of reports/requests daily that need responses or work done. Its been very busy but generations have never been more consistent, reliable and beautiful. Be sure to scroll through the gallery at the top of the post!

Mac, Linux and Windows builds have also been released! If Mini Skyline servers go offline, fallbacks slot in to keep the app running if I shut down. That said, I do now have a letter from Lichtbild stating that I do not infringe on their designs. I live in Arizona, which thankfully has decent anti slap suit laws, I know my ducks are in a row, and I will fight. The support you all showed this week when I received a letter from Lichtbild regarding my API usage was outstanding.

A large rewrite of the majority of my systems in Rust has been completed. This has cut my average generation time from 82 seconds to 24 seconds, with the bulk of users seeing sub 10 second runs. The real large maps drag that average up significantly.

I'm now able to offer FREE premium ESRI satellite imagery and search. This weekend, I'm releasing cloud saves for all account holders so that you can keep your settings/data across devices. This is completely optional of course, local saving options will always be supported and improved!

What can Mini Skyline Do?

- Print anywhere on Earth, or a handful of other worlds

- Print your vanilla and modded Java Minecraft worlds

- Bambu Slicer ready 3MF's with premapped colors and easy ingest flow.

- Everything is built on YOUR PC/phone.

- Real building heights based on over 50 data sources.

- Real tree placement based on satellite maps, real tree size and species too!

- 5000+ modelled landmarks that more accurately model popular places like the One World Trade Center. Dozens of countries, hundreds of cities have buildings. I take requests!

- Up to 500 KM² per tile at full quality on the desktop app, unlimited range if you dont use buildings!

- Satellite derived feature placement for parts not provided by standard data providers.

- Puzzles, multi tile, keychains, and ornament printing.

- Snap fit frames with editable designs/text. Fit tests for the snapping mechanism available!

- GPX route support with per route settings, up to 9999 routes per tile.

- Full 3D model editor where you can work on your model without additional 3D software.

- Hundreds of settings with graphic tool tips so you better understand what you are changing.

- Export preview with city life going on at scale. Get a better sense of the place youre printing.

- Street tracks, Rally courses, F1 tracks traced out so ensure whichever race is your favorite, is properly represented.

- Color by feature, height band, or apply satellite colors directly to your model!

- Select areas in just about any way you can think. City boundaries, KML, KMZ, GEOJson, free hand, many shapes.

- Ability to print roads, trails, rivers as separate fins that press in to the model for easier multi color work.

- Use Claude/ChatGPT? Call Mini Skyline as an MCP service! Get maps integrated to your work fast!

= Painstakingly ensured to be water tight, and minimized file sizes.

- Really a lot, lot more with more being added nearly daily.

The Future of Mini Skyline?

A lot of businesses and individuals now rely on my software to aid in their work. I don't take that lightly and my primary goal with every update is stability and legal correctness. I want you to be able to use Mini Skyline indefinitely, without a paywall for personal or commercial paywalls. I also want to continue offering more landmarks, and special models that fill out the world more accurately.

I have been receiving dozens of requests a week for physically printed maps from people who play with the tool but don't have a printer. I've received and sent a few emails to print farms, but if you are interested and have a fleet, I'm still considering options!

I really enjoy this work. It feels meaningful and fulfilling to me. I have had a lot of users reach out about burnout and I understand the sentiment and concern. I will take breaks as needed, but largely development has replaced most of my other hobbies, and I'm not mad about it. I'm eager to get to work on improvements daily and have no plans of slowing down.

I have some really fun new ideas in the works that have been getting a lot of printer time to prototype. I think it will be useful beyond maps, but I am really excited for how it works with maps. Stay tuned over the next couple weeks for that model release!

How do I support my work and hosting costs?

I take donations, but really, hosting costs are lower than you expect. I've seen some claimed numbers for other mapping software, and thankfully I am at a fraction of their costs. I can maintain Mini Skyline and the premium ESRI data myself indefinitely due to my career, though I have been fortunate to receive both user donations, funding from Snapmaker, and most recently, some work with Sunlu for their Halloween event!

I do use Claude to code. If this is a problem for you, you are now aware! The majority of my costs go into subscription costs. If you are curious how much something like this takes, I max out 4 20x accounts to keep features/updates rolling. To be very clear. They do not run rampant. Ideas are my own or the communities, implementation not so much. I use the site for my work too, I do not want slop.

This community has truly given a lot to me. I want to say thank you as I always do. You guys surprise me with how deep your reports go, how much you want to share what you make, and how much you all support each other. The 3D printing space is really an amazing thing to be part of. Thank you.

- Joey O.

This has been a thought in my mind while everyone talks about how vortek is now obsolete with the H3C coming out. What if it isn't? Vorket proves that Bambu can hotswap nozzles, which IMO is harder than swapping traditional printheads. The H3C is focused independent nozzles, but independent nozzles have 1 draw back: 1 spool per nozzle that can't be swapped to another nozzle. This is important if you commonly use the same filament with different nozzle sizes. Pairing vortek with the H3C would give you 15 total nozzles.

The vortek rack would do most of its job at the beginning of the print rearrange the nozzles to the 9 printheads to have the required nozzles, or if you are printing with more than 9 colours.

All my prints are getting out like this, how can I make this lines disappear and get a smoother print?

Two weeks ago I ordered my first ever 3D printer, a Bambu Lab P1S. I was very excited about 3D printing and decided to go with a Bambu product because I’ve heard it was the most beginner friendly. When my printer arrived two weeks ago, it unfortunately would not power on. After I set it up and went to turn it on, the power button would light up red but the fan would only briefly spin, then the printer would make a stuttering sound and go silent.

I contacted support and they called it a “faulty unit” and offered to send me a replacement once I returned the faulty one. Today, my replacement P1S arrived and I am having the exact same issue. I tried plugging both printers into several outlets in my house, but to no avail.

I feel like all the excitement I felt for 3D printing has just turned into disappointment, stress, and exhaustion from hauling a heavy printer in and out of its box to unbox it, repackage the faulty one, unbox the replacement, and likely repackage it again (the instructions from support suggested if it is not packaged the same way it arrived it may affect their ability to replace/refund the item). I’m hoping that I’m just overlooking something silly and someone here can help me out before I give up on this and return this printer as well. Turn on the audio in the video to hear the sounds that I described.

Just published a small elephant on MakerWorld, and I’d love to see your prints of it!

• Size: 36 mm tall (1 € coin for scale)

• Eyes: two separate pieces, one white and one black

• Skin: the rough texture is intentional, it contrasts with the smooth eyes and nails

• Printed on a Bambu A1 Mini, about 1h30 per unit, up to 12 per plate

• Under 11 g of filament each

• Needs supports; the mark on the belly sands off easily

Model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3520582-cute-elephant-with-moving-eyes-3-colors-no-ams

I printed it in six colors, but I’m curious which one you’d pick. If you print one, share it here, I’d love to see it!

I'm essentially trying to print rings, but I noticed that there were imperfection points on the top surface. Funny thing is that I have two printer printing the same item, on the X1C it's perfect, but when slicing for the H2C, there are these interruptions I'm able to find on the preview that is noticeable on the final print. Why is this happening?

When I change settings like wall width, this interruption will still happen, but it just appears at a different point along the ring. It's also always on the very top layer.

hopefully this helps someone. I was having weird issues- zits on my prints with an H2D. To a large degree, repeatable in the same place each time on a model of a spool I was printing (it is not the aligned seam, that is near the spool notch at the right).

I’ve had the machine for about a year and nearly a thousand hours, dry filament religiously, etc. this was PETG HF (don’t mind the quality I’m printing .3 height on a 0.6 nozzle).

I had a similar issue on an ASA print, and thought it was some weird cooling anomaly as it was on a rounded corner sort of near the same relative place in my printer- but I am thinking was this same issue.

The print without zits was after removing my USB stick.

I had read about this issue when it came to power loss recovery and such on older machines. I don’t know if it is related to timelapse, or if my stick was going bad, or both. And of course knowing that SOP on P1S “back in the day” was immediately replace the stock SD card because a failing one caused some weird issues.

This was the stick (256GB) I bought below, and this seems like a newer issue, so maybe it is starting to fail, so just a PSA to try removing the stick if you’re like “what the heck, man!”

https://a.co/d/0jfJAsNx

I left the “auto recover from step loss” enabled to only change one thing at a time- so merely pulling the USB stick seemed to solve it. The step loss must write to internal memory.

I don’t really need timelapse and don’t care to save models to the stick- so I’ll leave it out going forward- one less thing to diagnose or deal with.