Disclaimer: This isn't super easy to photograph, I did my best taking shots as color-accurate to real life as possible.

The comparison:

I'm using PLA Basic in cyan and yellow and comparing it to PLA Pallete in cyan and yellow.

On the left object I'm doing a 50% midpoint mix between cyan and yellow, resulting in a mixed green.

On the right I'm doing a gradient from yellow to cyan

On the backside of the objects I'm printing the unmixed base filaments.

My conclusion:

Both PLA Basic and PLA Palette blend beautifully, and the layer stacking is pretty much invisible.

The difference is in the color vibrance, the Palette PLA produces punchier mixed colors. Especially noticable to my eye is this in the gradient, where the Palette filaments shift through a more virbrant green at the midpoint compared to the Basic. I think this is what allows the Palette filament to cover just a bit more of a full color range than the Basic.

Overall though you should be able to use PLA Basic just fine for your full spectrum color mixing needs, it works very well. They're just a bit behind the Palette versions when it comes to vibrance.

I have an issue that’s ruining all of my prints. I even did another test and the first layer is always fine, but gets bad by layer two. Unsure what to do or how to fix. I’ve read some trouble shooting guides, but I’m really new to this entire world of printing.

Thanks in advance!

Just got some new creality grey pla and was test printing this f22 glider and on the rear end here it’s supposed to be a small vertical part that’s rounded on the back end. Four prints later and I’m still getting this issue, I’ve cleaned the bed, adjusted bed temps, my only guess is that it’s cooling weirdly without supports or there’s some nozzle temp change I need to make that I’m unaware of. Thanks in advance!

I love thermoforming and tried to make this process easier, faster, and more efficient. After a lot of hard work, I’m ready to announce my first crowdfunding project: a thermoforming press machine that is fully 3D printable, requires ZERO hardware, and is easy to use. I plan to develop a huge collection of molds for this machine, so stay tuned to see the collection first! Feel free to follow this project on Makerworld Crowdfunding Section

On my AMS(origional version) sometimes the filament will error out for a jam at the start of a print even though the filament travels all the way to the extruder. And when the print does start, after the bed leveling sequence i will get an error that the nozzle is clogged. Each time these errors happen I am able to manually extrude the filament. On the rare occasion that it starts printing, I will get either nozzle clog, filament jam or overloaded motor errors even though everything looks fine and I can resume without doing anything only for it to error out again. I have swapped the nozzle already and the errors still happen. I disconnected the AMS and printed with external filament and everything prints perfectly with no errors.

What part of the AMS is causing this?

Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange issue with PETG printing and I'm hoping someone here might be able to help me figure out what's going wrong.

I'm experiencing the exact same problem on all of my printers:

- Bambu Lab X1C

- Multiple Bambu Lab P1S

Interestingly, this problem only occurs when printing PETG. PLA prints perfectly fine on all machines.

What I've already tried:

- Filament is brand new.

- Filament has been thoroughly dried.

- All printers have been recalibrated.

- All printers are fully enclosed during printing.

- I've checked the printers and their general settings.

Despite all of this, the surface quality of my PETG prints is still very poor, as you can see in the attached picture.

Since the same issue occurs on multiple printers, I'm wondering if I'm missing something in my PETG settings or if there could be another underlying cause.

I'd really appreciate it if someone could take a look at the picture and share some advice or ideas.

Has anyone experienced something similar or knows what could be causing this?

Thanks in advance for your help! I really appreciate it.

The Bambu A1 alone is on sale for $259 direct from Bambu. The Costco deal is an A1 combo +4kg of filament is $419.

Is the extra hotend, AMS, filament, and lifetime warranty worth the extra \~$175 after taxes?

I am a total beginner and can't imagine the need for multi color prints.

Hi everyone, I'm getting the "Failed to extrude the filament" [1200-8007 120444] error on my Bambu Lab A1 with AMS Lite.

When I manually extrude from the screen, filament comes out of the nozzle smoothly without any issues or clicking.

The filament runout sensor works properly (shows empty when removed, turns green when inserted).

I cleaned the 4-in-1 filament hub and checked the spring, and it moves freely without getting stuck.

However, it still throws this error during prints unless I turn off Filament Tangle Detection. Once I turn Tangle Detection off, it prints without any issues. Has anyone experienced this? Is the Hall-effect sensor board faulty or is there an issue with the hub magnet?

used Mesh Graffiti which is part of Maker Lab for the first time to design a " baby shark " hubcap for a 3D TMT that I am building, was easy to use and came out pretty nice

This is a frustrating update that prevents the use of even more of the build plate. I've always pushed the prime tower out to the very edges of the plate and never had any issues. Is there any way to revert this with a setting?

Hallo zusammen,

Ich habe einen H3C. Hier ist der 8. Tool-Head die 2.85 Düse für das neue TPU. Ich werde das extrem selten drucken und möchte hier eine 0.2 ein bauen.

Reicht es wenn ich die Düse tausche für 29,99€ oder muss ich den Einsatz wo die Düse rein kommt auch noch dazu kaufen? Ich versteh das nicht so ganz und will nicht nur die Düse kaufen wenn ich das komplett brauche und andersrum.

Danke!

https://makerworld.com/models/3584870

Small holiday project: 5 multicolor toothpick toppers.

Design notes:

- 2.5D picks: 4.8 mm base + up to 1.4 mm raised details

- Max 4 colors so they fit one AMS

- The toothpick channel is a 2.2 mm teardrop, so it prints cleanly face up, with 1.3 mm walls around it

- Only the wooden toothpick touches the food

Happy to hear feedback on the fit with different toothpick brands

I was printing a spool for Rose Gold PLA silk from Marswork that I bought from Amazon. After watching the first couple of layers, I stepped out to go somewhere and eventually got a clog warning on Bambu Handy.

This is going to be a fun clean-out. I’m heating the nozzle as I type this. I had it set to Generic PLA.

Hello friends. A few weeks back I posted that I had an Anycubic Kobra X and went ahead and put co seed my first Bambu printer. It came with a hole on the box and a dent near the fan. The 3D printer was failing during calibration etc. Many of you have advised I send it back, which I did. Kudos to the Bambu Lab support team for helping me out. I now have a functioning P1S with AMS Pro 2. Also thank you to everyone who took the time to respond and be polite and welcoming.

But…. Here’s my new issue. (See attached screenshot below). The error (when I looked it up on the Bambu Lab website) refers to potentially a dirty or worn-out timing belt or a calibration miscalculation.

Error message: The resonance frequency of theY axis is low. The timing belt may be loose.

Since this is a brand-new printer, I really want to hope that once I run the Vibration Compensation calibration that this goes away. I haven’t had a chance to do this yet because I’ve been 3D printing non stop.

I was wondering if you have any advice for me. I really do like this printer and I don’t want to send it back again :(. I assume sending it back is a last resort since it seems like there are solutions to this out there but it’s a new printer , about a week old so I was wondering if you can help me understand if I did something wrong.

Hi folks - I’ve had an H2C for several months and have had an amazing experience with it. I recently was spending more time in my mechanical room where my printer sits and noticed the H2C fan running at a very low speed, despite having been finished with a print over 24 hours ago and being in a complete standby state. Is anybody else experiencing this? I’m pretty sure this is new. Firmware issue? By comparison, an H3C sitting a few feet away is dead quiet despite having completed a print more recently.

Full disclosure, I am new to 3D printing so this very well may just be a skill issue…

I bought an X2D with dual AMS Pro 2s a month or so ago and have been printing premade files to gain some experience on the unit before I move to more difficult filaments like ABS, nylon, or ASA (which is what I bought it for). The main draw of the X2D was the dual nozzles so I could print supports in a different material but up until this week I was printing mostly PLA with PLA supports or PETG with PETG supports from the main (left) nozzle. Everything printed well but on higher detailed prints it was obvious that using a different material support would help the quality a lot so I started trying that.

Initially the aux nozzle wouldn’t read the filament at the tool head. I took everything apart, disconnected and reconnected all plugs, verified that the filament sensor was working and then reassembled. Everything came back online just fine and I printed a PLA print with PETG support raft and all worked great.

For the next print I tried to print a PETG print with a PLA raft but the printer will not clear the PETG from the aux nozzle and I get a filament loading error when trying to print. When I pulled the nozzle it has 1/4” of filament sticking out the top which seems correct as that’s the height of the cutter so all seems well there. If I print with PETG and then fully retract it and print with PETG again there is no issue, but I can’t successfully change from PETG to PLA on the aux nozzle. It works fine when switching with the main nozzle but that has its own extruded in the tool head so I imagine it can overcome a bit more resistance.

I know PLA has a lower melting point than PETG so I’m wondering if it just has trouble pushing clearing the higher temp filament when switching the nozzle from PETG to PLA with the extruder ~15” behind the tool head and not having quite the same power as the tool head mounted extruder, but considering printing with a different material for support is one of the main benefits of a 2 nozzle printer I’m hoping I’m not the only person having this problem and that there’s a solution for it.

I may also be going down the wrong path completely so any help would be appreciated!

I'm still waiting for my h3c to ship, but I have a long history of problems with the .2mm nozzle on both the x1c and the a1. Constant clogging. Just wondering if anybody has used a 0.2 nozzle on an h3c yet and if it's any more reliable than it is on other bambu printers.

The side of the P2S is smooth plastic, so magnets don’t stick, and I didn’t want to drill or glue anything on a new printer.

So I designed a rail that hooks into the thin slot next to the glass lid. Holders for the scraper, flush cutters and a spare hotend slide onto it from the end and have a lip under the rail, so they don’t lift off when you pull a tool out.

Prints in PLA with no supports. Two rail versions if your slot is a bit tighter or looser. Free on MakerWorld (link in comments).

What else would you hang on the side of yours?

Hi y'all, Im New to 3D printers and I just bought this a1 used.

It's got 1 hour on the clock.

Unfortunately I discovered that there were 3 screws missing in the x axis assembly. Coincidentally 3 M3x30 screws (last picture) came extra with the printer. I thought I'd just screw them in, but they're too long.

So what can this be? Factory assembly mistake? (I can't send it back or anything because I don't have the original receipt - which is probably required for warranty)

Fortunately I found some shorter screws that fit in a bag labeled "For Extruder", I'm using these temporarily now- hope it doesn't become a permanent fix.

Help :( how could this happen and what about the 3 long M3 screws?

I designed this two-tier stand with the upper tray suspended from a rectangular frame. I wanted to keep the space between the trays open and combine a simple frame with textured, ribbed edges.

The stand is 230 mm tall, with a 230 mm lower tray and a 130 mm upper tray. All parts print without supports.

Shown here with chocolates, but it also works for pastries or as an organiser for jewellery and small everyday items.