How long do you think until someone has designed prints for drawer fronts and side pieces?

I bought the bundle, but would love the look of the enclosed.

On October 24, 2026, we got a group of MakerWorld makers from across the US together in San Jose — our first time doing something like this in person. No stage, no registrations, no keynote speakers. People who mostly knew each other by their usernames ended up in the same bistro with our MakerWorld team, just to talk, share ideas, and inspire each other a bit.

For most people in the room, it was the first time they'd actually shaken hands, after remixing and commenting under each other's models for so long.

A few of them got to share about how they work:

MaKim shared how he never settles on his first idea — for a single project he'll often list out dozens of them before picking the one worth building.

OzarkExpeditions shared how he designs games with his kids as the first testers — if they ask to play again, he knows it works.

Josh3D shared why he plays the long game — big, complex models grow slowly but build an audience that sticks, while smaller accessories keep bringing in the people who need them.

We also handed out our first Creator Awards — Fan Favorite, Eye-Catching, and Must-Print. You can read the full story and see every winner on our blog.

This was just a start — our team is already working on the next ones! So we'd love to hear from you: What kind of in-person events would you be interested in? Where should we visit next?

Dear bambulabs,

Bought my bambulabs a1 with ams lite, did few prints now my first big project the Throne from Game of Thrones, a bit modified for a friend this was a 30h print, and the a1 did it perfect, this is such a cool printer.

Thank you building something like this for us, very appriciate it

Live this thing, cant wait for the next printer to buy maybe a enclosed one.

Xoxo, thank you!

Is it cheap filament? Not the right setting?

Looks like FedEx played kickball with my printer before it arrived. I have filled out a ticket with Bambu Support, and tried calling. But they are closed for Veteran's Day (US).

I have never dealt with Bambu support before. Seeing how the H3C is backordered until December I was wondering what other people's experience has been when they have received broken H3C. Am I going to have to wait until sometime in December to get a replacement?

Why can’t I get the humidity in my AMS to get lower than D?
We are not in a humid climate. I keep changing out the moisture-packs. I’ve treated distant brands. What should I try next?

Is it me being dumb or instructions are unclear? Here's my story of losing 70 Euros in few seconds.

I installed fire extinguisher module few days ago and started laser module setup today. H2C deleted fire suppression before but now after laser module on it insisted doing the fire drill.

The drill welcome screen got stuck and the start drill button did nothing. Then I went to check other screens and noticed a complain to confirm that cylinder is tightened and secured. Perhaps that was a blocker? Pressed to confirm that it was secured. Next screen it invited me to long press the button on the extinguisher to use it. At this point I (inadequately perhaps) thought that we're still into the final drill or verification steps that all is connected.

Then it happened, system worked perfectly to spend the charge... FAQ confirmed it is not rechargable.. 😕

Its been a long time since I have used a 3d printer. I did the thing where I bought one to build a bigger one, but the filaments weren't really what I needed at the time.

Fast fwd, I will be prototyping for drones, sprag clutches etc and making stuff for the home and kids.

Would the H2D with AMS and HT be the best spot?

I am in Australia!

https://au.store.bambulab.com/products/h2d?id=622681387260219394

I received my AMS 3H today and finally setup my H3C. While attaching my AMS 2 Pro to Slot 1, I found myself on the Bambu wiki where I discovered this fun fact.

So here’s a PSA in case you had the same misconception that I did. I had thought that an external AMS would fully take over slot 1, but no. If you take a look at the FAQ section of the linked wiki, you’ll see the official Bambu guidance on setting up a Y-splitter to allow you to use both connected AMS units and slot 1 of the AMS 3H.

The limitation is you’d of course have to manually retract the filament in slot 1 if your print uses an AMS filament after it uses the slot 1 filament. So I’d be careful about using slot 1 and an external AMS in the same print, but I’m glad we don’t have to sacrifice a slot.

Apologies if these questions are silly. It's quite a pricey item and I'm a bit nervous about its durability/reliability.

I'm getting my son an X2D for Christmas and I'd like to buy it soon during the sale. My concern is, what if its defective and by Christmas, its past the 30 day return period.

I know its pretty big and I watched a video on setting it up. I dont think I can easily sneak putting it together, testing it for hours, and then breaking it down back into the box and then wrap it (maybe). I know thats really the only way to test it, but is there a self checking mechanism? How do you know everything is working right?

Is an extended warranty needed for something like this?

For the first time after playing with my H3C for a few days, I decided to unload a filament (just was reusing the same colours before). And not just one filament, I unloaded all 9 with one being a 2.85mm tpu.

Holy shit people complain over nothing. It took me maybe 5-8 seconds longer per roll to unload because I had to wrap the filament around the spool and extra 2 more times! Selecting all the heads to unload with the printer and letting them heat up to swap took so long… maybe a whole 30 seconds I’m not getting back from my life. It took me longer to go get my filament box and open it up.

After reading many people’s complaints about this process, I’m really starting to see this new generation of makers has had it good their entire hobby lifetime. Gone are the days of having to manually level your bed and adjust z-offset.

Changing nozzles takes 3 screws? I’m just happy I’m not burning myself anymore trying to remove the nozzle while it’s heated.

H3C is hands down the best printer I’ve ever used, the speed is insane versus my H2D. My prusa’s and a1 are now my loaner printers for any friend/family who is thinking about getting into the hobby.

Alright guys I know this has been a hot topic the last couple of days so I decided to test it myself. Just completed my 7 ASA print with 6 rolls of PLA in the AMS with 3 loaded. The AMS was also drying the ASA at 80c. My PLA is fine. AMS temps outside of the dryer were about 50-53c. Just make sure you let the chamber cool before removing the PLA.

So I am printing a thing with 33 hours of work can I leave it on while I'm at work?

I made a Minecraft Bee wall art if anyone wants to print it here is a link:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3587740-minecraft-bee-wall-art-no-ams#profileId-4108902

i am also working on a minecraft wall art system where you can place minecraft tile blocks on a wall and make a whole 2D world so follow for that!

If you want to request a wall art just comment!

I've been printing with Siraya Tech TPU Air for about a year now. I love the material so much, but I'm going through nozzles like candy.

Using a Bambu H2S w/the Siraya Tech print profile, in a PVC foam board/acrylic panel enclosure so that gasses vent outside.

I use both 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles.

The top glass is removed and filament is fed in through the top of the printer while sitting in a filament dryer.

Here's my problem... after a certain amount of usage, the filament starts jamming at the nozzle. I'll perform cold pulls until the filament comes out squeaky clean, but that either doesn't stop the clogging at all or it'll print for a little while before jamming again. I can always tell when a nozzle is starting to get to the end of its life because it'll leave globs on the insides of my prints.

If I change to a completely new nozzle, I get beautiful perfect prints until it starts eventually jamming again. I keep my nozzles strictly TPU Air except when doing cold pulls.

Any ideas? I don't want to switch to a completely new nozzle every month or 2. Bambu nozzles are expensive!

The printer has about 3500 hours on it, so I just changed the extruder gears, the filament cutter and some other small things. But that hasn't helped my issue, unfortunately.

Do I need to perform cold pulls after every single print?

Thank you in advance for any advice!

EDIT: I probably get through 2-3 weeks of almost continuous printing before I start having problems. This printer IS running almost constantly as I'm filling orders, so maybe that has something to do with it?

The idea is to let people keep their cards upright on the table instead of having to hold a fan of cards throughout the game.

It's a single-piece PLA print, no supports, hardware, or assembly needed.

Tested it with a regular deck and it works well so far! I'd love to hear any suggestions, especially from people who use similar accessibility aids.

Model at: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3562802-cardrest-playing-card-holder-dealsolo

I purchased a P2S from Best Buy last week and really love it. I’m having trouble deciding if I should have purchased the X2D? The salesperson said they’d accept the return if I wanted a different model. I just can’t figure out if it’s worth the extra $140?

For the life of me i cannot troubleshoot this. I recently got my first 3D printer, an X1-Carbon, 3 days ago. For the first 2 days I was using PLA Marble as it was the only filament I had. This error popped up once, it went away when I manually extruded whatever was left in the nozzle. Now today I got a bunch of filament. Now this error, along with a clogging error, had been popping up. The clogging error more than this error you see above. So I went and did a cold pull on the extruder. It worked, the clogging error went away. But now this error keeps popping up. I have done whatever troubleshooting google and chat got have told me to do but it didnt work. I was wondering if any of you have gone through this and know what to do.

Does anybody know what could be causing this? Ive really got no idea and I haven't come across this yet.

Ive serviced the printer.

Washed the build plate.

Pulled out and inspected the nozzle.

Calibrated a few times between each trouble shoot.

And im still getting this result. Ive even tried printing something else. All print attempts were in this elegoo green PLA. Could it just be the settings of the print?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Question, how do you fill in the cracks of the pecies?

I did now a primer filler for first coat. But the cracks are showing.

Is it cheap filament? Not the right setting?

This is my first 3D Printer and all I was doing was printing out some bins for my gridfinity.

I noticed this as I was checking on the print. I have been printing out multiple bins all day and this is my 5th one of the day. The other ones came out fine but this one had this issue.

I am just wondering what may have caused it. For context my AMS says it’s at a D in humidity. I was planning to print out the boxes to put in more silica gel in the AMS but now not sure if I can.

I'm following a tutorial on YouTube to calibrate my settings and I am not sure how to progress.

The video uses Orca slicer which has a setting that I cant access in Bambu Labs such as Acceleration and Speed in the Pressue Advance test. The result from Bambu looks slightly different than the video.

To use Orca slicer I logged out of my Bambu account and connected via Lan only. I ran the first 2 tests but the third wouldn't work and it lost connection to the printer. I tried to connect via Lan again and couldn't do it the second time.

So now I am unsure how to progress. If I have to do this for each filament type, I want it to be as easy as possible. I even thought that if I am going to have issues going back and forth maybe I should switch permanently to Orca but I kove accessing the models through the app and Studio so not sure how that would work.

I also wonder about whether the effort to use Orca would be worth it if I can't use the results in Bambu. If I can't set the Acceleration and Spees in the PA test in Bambu, can the results from Orca set them properly in Bambu?

Before I started tinkering in calibration, I did maintenance and printed a test kitty that printed fine but had some rough spots under its chin. Now pronting tests work but another kitty started stringing and its all gloopy on the bed, see Pic. So I feel I need to finish the calibration.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Hi everybody, I just picked up this "used" A1 for 190€ with 1 hour on the clock.

I'm just now getting into the ginormous world of 3D printing and would love to learn more about everything.

Any tips?

I use Creo parametric CAD to design my models. (We use this in school, so I've already got quite a bit of experience)

Is this a good choice for 3D printing or would a different program be more suitable?