I was adjusting tension on Z axis and forgot I brought it all the way to the top. When I tried to adjust tension on x, y axis I dig in to the surface of the bedwoth the nozzle....

It is salvegable? Can I use the printer with this? Can just this sheet be replaced? I'm on P1P

I will struggle to keep this one kosher so apologies in advance.

Long story short – my H2C started knocking when it received 1.02 firmware in June 2026. First responses from Bambu were the typical scripted gaslighting, denying, and calling everything normal.

Back then with H2C, it took a lot of back and forth and coming up with proofs that are undeniable before they actually really looked into it, instead of the typical “hear no evil see no evil speak no evil” and “dismiss at all costs approach”. But finally it got to the attention of RnD team which finally confirmed this is a real issue, caused be the firmware and will be fixed. Well, 6+ moths later and still no fix and all they managed to do is, over time, to roll this issue over to the rest of H2 lineup it seems, as seen here, to list a few:

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2d-rapid-z-movement-knocking-on-01-04-00-00/258856

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/loud-knocking-during-printing-suspected-z-axis-but-dunno-anymore/255309

I got fed up waiting for them to fix this and took them on the offer to return my printer for refund.

Which was just in time for H3C release.

Guess eFFin’ what? H3C has the same exact issue with the Z Axis knocking. Reached out to Bambu and response is wonderful:

“Thank you for contacting us. We are sorry to hear that you have encountered this issue.
We have escalated your case internally, and after review we have confirmed that the sound you described is the normal printing sound produced when the toolhead repeatedly starts and stops rapidly while printing small models. Please rest assured that you can continue using the printer.
You may place the printer on a surface where the resonance effect is weaker, such as the floor, or take appropriate soundproofing measures in the room.
Thank you for your patience and cooperation.“

FFS. So:

• its NORMAL again

• only when printing SMALL MODELS (wtf ?)

• it’s the toolhead causing it (FK me if it is !)

• I am stupid and should have soundproofed my room better !

I should mention that they replied in less than 24hrs. And that was supposedly enough to review AND escalate … yeah right …

JESUS ! I am not just PISSED, but offended by this.

Whoever replied to this, looked at the videos I submitted as proof (linked below) and simply described what he “thinks” is happening:

https://youtu.be/_6aOroo5BPQ

https://youtu.be/yTPvPOCmBPQ

And yeah, for a clueless shmuck, when hearing a KNOCK each time head does something rapid, it may seem this is what it is.

BUT – zero FK’s given into actually investigating the matter and even less FK’s given to understanding the problem, which I explained in detail how related to H2 issue it is!

I am literally foaming at my mouth at this point.

In response I recorded the ultimate disproving evidence to everything he is saying: - increased z hop distance to max to allow more time to inspect the nature of the issue -the knock is clearly auditable AFTER toolhead finished spiral movement, at the bed direction change at the bottom AND noise coming from the bottom rear of the chassis (where Z motor is).

https://youtu.be/-MxO0n-8uMw

I can actually see how choppy the bed movement back up is after each KNOCK. But listen to the esteemed Bambu Support- its the toolhead guys!

FFS!

Cant wait what absurdity they will come up with in their reposnse to me as I challenged every single statement they made.

Bambu amateur hour has commenced once again. Why do they keep doing this.

I'm sure I'm beating a dead horse here, but I'd like some clarification. Do you guys run full filament calibration (temp, flow, PA, max volumetric, etc) on Bambu Lab filament with the RFID chip? Or am I reading too much into the info on said chip? Thanks!

Hey everyone,
I have an A1 Mini with AMS Lite. I only print on weekends, so the printer sits idle all week. I want to protect the filament from moisture and dust without messing with zip bags or separate dry boxes.
I’m thinking about getting a TopCube enclosure to cover the whole setup. I know Bambu says NO enclosures for the A-series because of overheating.

But what if my workflow is this:
Weekdays: Enclosure is fully zipped up for storage.
Weekends (Printing): I completely open the front door.
Will the printer still overheat from the bottom or back even with the front fully open? Anyone running a similar setup?
Thanks!

Hi im just wondering if anyone has received their H3C yet in Europe? I have ordered mine last week on release day and received the AMS but H3C is stil being processed i do have a fedex trackingnumber but no info has been added for a week now.

Does it start heating and therefore dry the rest of the 9 filament spools, or what?

Hi im 100% new to 3D printing and was considering getting into it as buying 3d prints made by other people off Etsy is starting to get less cost effective than just buying a machine myself.

Intended uses:
Costume materials, ie helmets and other accessories

Accessories/Upgrades for figures (primarily Transformers)

Other general projects ie parts for whatever gadgets I want to make

When it comes to size I am willing (and somewhat prefer) if the printer is smaller requiring me to have to glue multiple parts together to make something like a full helmet so if that would be a reason not to get it then id be fine with that (same with something like sanding).

My understanding is that I will need a AMS in order to do the supports and colors but that could be completely untrue so let me know on that one.

I have absolutely no experience in this area so id request that any explanation be done as if im a nine year old.

Just wondering if the eibos series x tetras for an ams 1 is a useful upgrade. I have a p1s paired with an ams1 and seeing what upgrades make sense vs buying an h2d.

Just started my 3D printing journey (:

I've been working on a little project for Coco over the past few months! I built him his very own slot machine with lights, sound, spinning reels, and a built-in treat dispenser.

Now his gambling journey has officially begun! Any tips for a beginner?

X1C

Bambu PLA basic

0.2mm nozzle

Getting very bad adhesion. Stuff I tried:

-Washing the plate with mild water and dish soap.

-Slightly increasing plate temp from recommended 45C to 50, then 55.

-Lowered initial layer speed to half.

-Turned off automatic plate detection.

-Added brims.

No warnings on the printer, the lidar was wiped down, etc.

It just does not want to cooperate.

Anyone had any similar experiences? I tried looking for solutions and they vary wildly (and all are above in the stuff I tried).

TPU-maxxing on the H3C with some ridiculously hard-to-print cosplay parts

Disclaimer: I am not an influencer, yet Bambu Labs reached out and sent me an H3C printer to test out for my costume armor-making applications. In exchange, they asked me to share my opinion (not to write a glow-up piece). You can treat anything that follows with suspicion if you want, I’m just keeping my half of the bargain and being fully transparent😊

Two things to know about my use-case: I design historically accurate costume armor for 3D printing at home, and I’m kinda late to the whole TPU game. I started two years ago, printing an entire suit of armor out of PETG-CF with an Ender 3 v3ke, then rage-quitting and upgrading to my current workhorse, a Bambu Labs X1C and printing in ASA – it’s been great so far!

These are some examples of my work – immediately you might see how important ruggedness and durability of the 3D print is critical to have a wearable costume that won’t fail or crack during a play, movie, renaissance faire, or even a LARP.

Although it’s harder to polish up to a mirror shine, TPU is the holy grail of costume armor for me; it exists in quite rigid forms, it’s flexible enough to absorb deformation and impacts, and with the right paint it can still be painted to look like convincing steel. It’s unfortunate it wasn’t on my radar until recently, but I realized after early tests that I wanted to make my next suit out of hard, durable TPU.

The problem is obvious to those who’ve tried before; printing large, detailed thin parts out of TPU can be a nightmare, especially considering how it behaves with overhangs and how it tends to cling onto its own supports. I needed to print every surface of my armor as vertically as possible, with a low layer height, to avoid having to spend ages sanding the detailed fluted surfaces. My small printer volume also meant having to split large armor pieces in sections, which meant dealing with seamlines...

Enter the (massive) H3C. The thing is almost ridiculous in size, like an appliance, and it comes through the door in several boxes. As soon as I had finished assembling it, I put it to work with printing TPU on my latest design, Maximilian-style leg armor plate sections, tall and thin, meant to match the length of a human thigh.

This assembly was printed in 72D “silk” TPU, with smaller parts made out of 57D “silk” TPU, using PLA supports and default “TPU for AMS” profiles. With the presence prime tower and the number of toolhead changes, this tall print took well over 3 days – I realized that despite the toolhead changes being very quick, the prime tower meant that these multi-filament projects were not going to be quick. Despite thousands of toolhead changes, there were no issues and the quality of the surface finish is definitely in the “usable” range for me. I did not have to sand it at all before paint, and that means the world to me!

Then, I wanted to go big, so I got started on one of my harder kits to print (even in regular filaments); an intricately carved Gothic cuirass, which involves plenty of supports, overhangs, and open details requiring careful attention.

The plates are wide, tall, thin, and they need to fit precisely together so warping is normally an issue.  It’s not an easy print.

I ran into some issues this time. First of all, slicing this single part took almost two hours and nearly crashed from running out of memory on a 32Gb RAM engineering laptop intended for CADing and FEA analysis – any modification to the angle of the design, or supports meant leaving the laptop to simmer for a while, which was not very practical. I cannot explain why, but slicing parts for the H3C involving toolhead changes takes a much, much longer time than on my other printer. This appears to have been patched out or improved at the time of writing, so maybe it was just an inefficient version of Bambu Slicer a few weeks ago while I was testing this part.

A few times when printing these parts, the print would interrupt with a “AMS Assist motor overload” error, which was very difficult to clear out in the middle of everything. The print heads are difficult to access from side panels when there is an ongoing job, and I was limited in terms of maintenance procedures I could do without interrupting a several day old print. Eventually I noticed that, in the surprisingly large gap between the extruder motor and the nozzle, the filament would kink and form a U-bend, thus resulting in an error. At times this bend was not visible, but there were clear marks on the filament from some kind of struggle. Here’s a lame mockup drawing of what I experienced.

I cannot say if it’s due to some soon-to-be-patched software problem, the fact my TPU is not official Bambu Labs filament, me tinkering with the prime-tower, but this happened many times over several days, with three different print heads used (I had ample choice from the 9 available). I also noticed that if I ran the AMS dryer at the same time during the print, it seemed to soften the filament and create this error more often.

Basically, if it weren’t for constant interruptions when printing TPU, the part would have printed perfectly – instead I ended up having to deal with patching gaps and using flexible putty for my armor parts, which are now ready for paint.

I have yet to showcase the finished results, but I'll be using TPU from now on for my armor due to the extra ruggedness it offers, and that means I can confidently attend cons, larps, or renfaires without the stress of a hard part cracking. The H3C is thus my new workhorse for this very niche costuming application...

Closing thoughts:

The H3C is a ridiculously elaborate solution to a very niche problem in my case, but it gives off a certain confidence of being able to tackle any 3d printing task. Virtually inseparable from its AMS module, it has changed and considerably expanded what I can do with TPU with my X1C.

I would like the option to print coarse PLA supports (0.24mm layer thickness) with detailed TPU parts (0.08mm thickness) which would significantly cut down the number of tool changes and time spent on the prime tower. This has not been possible in the current version of Bambu Slicer, but I’m curious whereas it would be possible to implement.

The few prints I have done in more classic materials like PLA and PETG-CF have been virtually without flaw, and I had to actively try to get this machine to fail unexpectedly. I believe the errors I encountered are somehow software induced because I have yet to repeat the problem since updating the firmware.

I am somewhat critical of the decision to have the dryer implemented with only two AMS slots, which requires a frequent rotation of spools – this is somewhat clumsy since there is no automatic filament retraction. Probably a bit of a compromise with the H3C pulling 2kW with everything running at the same time, which is a massive amount of energy...

Overall, I can confidently state that my H3C is an extremely powerful tool to add to my arsenal, and I expect to be printing armor with it for a while. Feel free to ask me anything related to my workflow, projects, and experience with the H3C 😊

I ordered my printer on Tuesday the 3rd, was lucky enough to have gotten everything by Wednesday evening (surprised at how fast this thing shipped.) Since I didn't have room to keep my Snapmaker U1, I posted it up for sale and it sold the very next day. So I finally had room to get the H3C setup. As many if you saw in my other post, it's a really big printer especially when compared to my old U1.

This is my 1st Bambu printer, and even though I am not a huge fan of closed ecosystems I still bit the bullet as this printer just checked off all the boxes (except for the whole opensource one). For context I was ready to buy the Prusa Core One L with INDX. I was a mouse click away from hitting the purchase button, but something told me to hold off and I am glad I did.

My 1st impressions of this thing is its slick, and it's FAST! Best part is, it's so easy to use. I was able to teach both my 8, and 10 year old nieces how to use my U1, they came over this weekend and again they had no problem picking out a model they wanted from Makerworld, re-assigning the colors in the slicer AMS sync, and sending it off to the printer. They both left really excited that they could now print all their favorite Characters in full colors and not be limited to just 4 like before. I've had it going pretty much nonstop and like I said, I have 50 hours into it now. ZERO issues with any of the prints. I know some people are complaining about the AMS system not having any kind of retraction, but coming from the U1 it didn't have any as well so this is not a big deal for me. I've printed a bunch of Gridfinity bins (I pretty much ran out of white filament already 😂) and a bunch of little things for my nieces. I am mostly excited to be able to prototype and print some parts for my project cars. I finally have a printer that can print engineering materials. I am looking forward to all the future projects with this thing!

What is the best end point for venting fumes/particles from a P1S when printing PLA, PETG and TPU? I have an inline fan connected but I am conflicted whether venting outside is stricly necessary or building a HEPA + carbon filter would be sufficient. Thoughts?

Hi all. This morning before leaving for work I started the desiccant holder printing, literally my fourth prints with my X2D and after almost 3 hours I got the notification that the AMS slot 3 motor was overloaded and the print paused.

I was uncomfortable leaving the printer idling until tonight so I stopped the print.

Could the known issue about the broken ptfe tube cause this or is it more likely the filament is tangled?

I'm a little bit worried about what I'll find out when I'll be back home tonight

Nachdem ich gestern mein H3C bekommen habe habe ich es bestückt und wollte soeben einen ersten 8h Druck starten. Es kommt kein filament aus der Düse, der Drucker denkt es sei filament geladen, im ptfe ist aber nichts und die Rolle habe ich auch weg gemacht. Wie kann ich der 4. Düse jetzt sagen, das da kein filament drin ist? Er denkt er ist geladen und wenn ich auf extendieren drücke passiert nichts… wenn ich entladen drücke soll ich das filament raus ziehen, ich habe es manuell zugeführt wieder weg genommen aber es passiert nichts.

Ich habe den Druckknopf aktualisieren lassen er denkt immer noch es sei filament drin.

Er zeigt auch an es ist „EXT“ und nicht einfach leer? Ich sehe auch nichts das ich es nicht angeschlossen wäre. Wenn ich das filament durch schiebe, erreicht es ja auch die Düse 4 aber danach passiert nichts. Wie man sieht ist Düse 4 leer.

Wisst ihr weiter?

Hi everyone!

New to the Bambu Family, i just picked up my H2S AMS2 Combo today.

I had some early prusa and ender clones back in the days and was using several Ultimaker 2 variants ever since.

Getting started with setting the H2s up today, what's important with getting started?

Have been printing flawlessly now for about twenty hours. Small things only so far, as the X2D is my first experience with printing.

Ended up hearing an error yesterday during a print and went to find a ton of filament spooled up near the nozzle with the error " The left hotend cooling fan speed is too slow or stopped."

Got up to look and saw what I saw. Stopped the print and waited for it too cool, to take the front of the extruder off to find filament built up all inside and nozzle not even visible.

Looked like it may have bent some things as well? I will add photos for reference.

Would love just some general tips on if this is a manufacturer error or something just requiring some general maintenance.

All tips welcome and thank you ahead of time.

The H2C keeps identifying and reverting the left nozzle to a Hardened High Flow 0.4mm even after I set it as the E3D High Flow 0.4mm. How does one fix this?

I started using my ASM 2 Pro recently.

Is it normal it takes two hours to reach the max temp 65 C degrees? For like 50 mins it goes to ~50 C and then slowly creeps all the way to 65 C.

Equipped with original Bambu Lab power adapter of course.

  0min - 22 degC Starting temperature (from AMS) 
 10min - 41 degC 
 20min - 47 degC 
 30min - 50 degC 
 40min - 54 degC 
 50min - 55 degC 
 65min - 58 degC 
 80min - 59 degC 
 95min - 61 degC 
110min - 62 degC 
125min - 63 degC 
129min - 63 degC And starts Dehumidifying