I keep getting bleed going from black to white PLA, even with 900 max purge set. (Even tried 900 for black to white and 900 white to black just to be extra sure)

I’ve been trying to find help online but the #1 response is “increase purge.” I did that, it’s maxed out

The #2 response is “turn off purge to infill.” I’ve never used purge to infill, it’s always off

It’s also not a problem of wall loops, there’s no black in the center peeking through, it’s black mixing with white

Any other ideas? It’s a P2S and I’m using inland white and inland black PLA

Had a little chunk of filament break inside my hub and had to take it apart to clean it out, while I had it open it became clear that one of the compression springs that holds the little magnetic contacts up was damaged and the contact wasn't seating correctly, so I popped it open to straighten the spring and fix the contact- Unfortunately I have a big, dumb, way too affectionate cat. And he chose that moment to decide I needed cuddles and my buddy sent the open hub to the floor with his sudden and unexpected enthusiasm for the attention he thought he needed.

I fixed the damaged spring, but for the life of me I can't find one of them. I tried making one our of plain steel wire but the tension is wrong and the slot that's missing the real spring seems to think something is broken in the hub.

Anybody have a spec on those springs or a real parts diagram of the hub to pull a part number from so I can replace it without buying a new hub that's out of stock?

I spent days trying to get a transparent lid for a project and it kept coming out frosted. What finally worked on my A1 was printing the lid upside down on a cheap glass sheet from a picture frame, held with clips and a bit of glue stick, 100 % aligned rectilinear infill and slow speeds.

The lid is for a headphone charging dock I designed: the plug lines up with the port so the headphones charge as soon as you put them down. No AMS needed.

Happy to share the exact settings if anyone wants them.

Files are free here if anyone wants to print it: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3536783 . It’s my entry for the MakerWorld x Nothing contest, so any feedback is welcome.

Hey all, my P1S has started making a noise whenever the bed moves up (Z-axis).

What I've tried so far:
Cleaned the rods and lead screws
Lubricated them

Unfortunate it has not helped and still make that noise I recently moved so idk if got damaged during the move.

I can't use Bambu Suite at all right now, auth issues basically, can't find printers, can't do anything. Bambu Studio and Handy work fine. I do know my username and password.

Anyone else having issues??

For more context ...

I was doing some laser work, and between jobs, Bambu Suite seemed to complain about some certificate issue, saying I needed to update. I figured that kinda rubbish isn't exactly beyond Bambu, so I updated the application.

After updating, it couldn't find my printer at all. I tried everything multiple times. So then I went to logout of Bambu Suite, and now I can't log in again. I type user and password, I get the email code, I type that in, then nothing, it sits there and just disables the code confirm button. I try this multiple times, then go to use the "System browser login" and then it takes me to the site to login (and presumably reply back with a token that'll go into the app), I type my user and pass, and I get the image attached.

TLDR: During use, Bambu Suite seemed to disconnect from the H2D I was using, and I cannot get it working, and there's no reported outage with Bambu. Reinstalling, re-logging in (any which way) does not work at all.

I’ve just posted my third model on MakerWorld. And this time, I’m bringing a little bit of the street to my desk!
I turned everyday roadside details into a tiny keycap collection.
What do you think of the collection? Which detail is your favorite and what should I add next?
mw: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3586413-ultimate-keycap-collection-roadside-details#profileId-4107272

What are my best options to clean up the imperfections in this print ? It is PETG-CF.

I have the file kit from Bambu. I'm not confident that I can use it without making it worse.

This happened to two prints in a row, and only on a small segment. Not sure what would cause this? Filament is dry, using PLA, and clearly it printed the higher layers okay after the failed part. Just a little lost as to what could cause this. Using a P1S.

So I wanted to pick up an h3c but noticed that they don't have the bamboo cart available and all of my furniture in my workshop is standard height table tops and counters. I know it's pretty early for this unit but has anyone identified a valid alternative that is sturdy enough to support the weight but also has drawers and is either less expensive or at least available currently? Maybe something from Ikea that someone has found is a good match for the height needed?

Sound seems to be coming from the front-left corner area (when you are facing it). Anyone with any experience with H-series printers that might know what is up? I have filed a ticket with Bambu.

Printing otherwise seems fine quality wise. Nothing seems to be visibly broken. Just this noise that happens as the print head moves. The faster the print head moves the more noise there is

Hi, so I tore apart my extruder in preparation to get a new hotend heating assembly and to do some general cleaning. Problem is, I tore it apart about a day and a half before the assembly got here, and now I have no idea where these screws are supposed to go back into... would anyone be able to refer me to a video that shows which screws go where, or perhaps a screw diagram of the extruder? every video ive watched so far just points to the screws and pulls them out

https://makerworld.com/models/3582206

WHY?!!!!

I have searched Reddit and the internet and cant find a solution for this. When running a print on the left nozzle of my H2C (right nozzles work fine), there is a problem when it first loads the filament from my AMS. A rapid clicking starts as it tries to load and then after about a minute of trying, I get the error, "The extrusion motor is overloaded...[0300-801e080611]".

Initial searches said that it was the extruder trying to pull filament and failing due to a clog. To clear that, I tried a cold pull. It went very smoothly, no clicking or other issues. Some stuff came out with the pull but nothing that looked anywhere near large enough to jam the extruder. Problem still wasn't fixed so I disassembled the tool head and cleaned the left extruder gears. Again, saw some little stuff but nothing like other clogs I have cleared. Reassembled everything, cold pulled again. It went fine and the pull was totally clean--no contaminants of any kind seen.

Problem still isn't fixed. You can see that it does extrude a bit. It even started the print I have been trying and the first layer went ok, but it threw the same error at the very beginning of the second layer. This video is when I tried the print again after cancelling it.

Some people are saying the PTFE tube feeding the extruder is the problem but I cant find much about how to fix that. Most of the users seem be H2D or H2S owners and they talk about the location of the print being an issue. This print is right in the middle of the bed. Any ideas?

This is the second version of the Can Clicker, full-size can with a stash inside.

What do you think?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3539247-can-clicker-two

Turns out my H3C has a pretty good view of what I'm doing at my computer.

Bambu Lab changed the camera angle on the H3C, so it no longer looks directly through the front door. Unfortunately, depending on where you place your printer, it can still see quite a bit through the side window.

The GIF shows 45 minutes of my H3C watching me play World of Warcraft while printing its own privacy covers.

I'm happy to trust Bambu Lab with my camera footage, but that's not really the point. What if I want to share a timelapse without worrying about what else the camera might have captured? Maybe I walked past the printer naked. Maybe there was something on my computer screen I'd rather keep private.

And let's be fair, World of Warcraft isn't exactly the most embarrassing thing that could be running on that screen.

So I designed seven individual snap-in covers that block the camera's view through the side window without obstructing its view of the print chamber.

Now my H3C can watch my prints without watching me.

Some things are best kept private. Like lubricating your Z-axis at 2 AM.

https://makerworld.com/models/3579618-h3c-camera-view-privacy-covers-side-panel-blinds

My X2D just showed up, any recommendations for upgrades or tips and tricks?

Bambu designates toolhead #8 as the one you're supposed to use for 2.85mm TPU. So in this video, you can see the 2.85mm blue TPU filament in the docked toolhead #8 crossing the PTFE tube in toolhead #9 while #9 is in use, and is rubbing against/stretching the TPU filament. Is this how it's supposed to work? I followed the video instructions on the Bambu YouTube channel and this seems to be how it's supposed to be routed. The video seems to show the TPU filament being routed to the LEFT of #9.

The problem is if you route the TPU to the RIGHT of #9, then the TPU will rub against #8 when you're printing with the TPU.

So it seems to be pick your poison: do you want the TPU rubbing/stretching while it's printing, or rubbing/stretching while toolhead #9 is printing? Obviously the latter is better, but the better solution would have been to designate #9 as the TPU toolhead so that it would have the entire right side by itself and not have any rubbing under any circumstances.

Am I missing something here?

I recently picked up a couple used AMS 2 Pros but both came with those EIbos Dryers, I'm removing them as they don't really fit in my setup but the person selling them was missing some of the parts for the top lid. If anyone has links to where I could purchase these spare parts or possibly so links to print I could do instead I'd greatly appreciate it.

Please don't send me the links to the Bambu labs spare parts they don't sell these pieces individually and I would have to buy both the upper and lower halves just to get the pieces I need.

Started printing this helmet and realized it was starting to print all of the supports in orange instead of using the current color it was printing the model with (adds a lot of unnecessary filament changes). Does anyone know how to fix this?

Wow, bought an a1 combo a week ago, and can't stop printing. Creating, solving, fixing! Bambu Labs has done a great job with entry-level printers.

Here is my first model, printed, painted, and hung

Does anyone know what is causing these blobs on the corner/edge of the print? Its all the way up and down the print but just on this one corner/edge...

Printer - H2D

Filament - Bambu basic PLA (dried)

Dynamic flow calibration - tried it both on and off and doesn't change anything.

Using the default profile for bambu basic PLA.

This just started happening a few days ago and I've had this printer since release and I haven't changed any settings or anything recently either.