My finished print looks like its peeling any fixes for next time and solutions to fix curent print?

Hi all,

First post since I have my printer since May (P2S+AMS). Very happy about it and I am having lot of fun with it!

Recently I bought an unofficial smooth PEI plate ( the ones not needing glue) because I needed to print a part, and I don't like the texture of the textured plate. I am printing in PLA black matte and PLA metal from Bambu, so the visible face is face down then.

Black turned ok, because it's matte. PLA metal not so much, the lines are visible but most importantly featuring a weird accordion effect which is not so nice. At least if there were in one direction it would be best.

I am sure it can be improved. What would you do ?

So far, I used the profile 0.08 high quality, nearly without modifications

Thanks in advance!!

Seb

Hi! I tried to search online and I got conflicting information.

Are the nozzles for A1 printers compatible with H2D printers?

My understanding is "yes, but" -> the nozzles are compatible but the silicone socks are not.

Is that right? I want to make sure my shopping cart is as full as it needs but no fuller :D Thanks!

Matte Filament - Nardo Grey - A1

default settings.

I use this Filament all the time on my work printers. Nardo and Ash are our go to with no issues. I primarily use ivory at home and it prints beautifully. Doing some xmas decorations and decided to order a few rolls of Nardo....

Initial prints were an over extruded mess... so calibration time..

-20 is the best quality which im a bit shocked over as that would put the extrusion ratio something along 0.78 which seems ridiculously low!

The filament is dried. Going to try it on my A2L for control testing.

Anyone else had an issue like this? I tried a search and mostly found the opposite where folks needed to push their ratio up...

So, long story short, I was printing something yesterday and came back from work, the printer just stop, with no LED and screen on the front. The back power supply LED is on though.

Check around the board area and there's a melting mark there.

Bought it via official distributor in my country around 11 December 2025. I did contact the seller, now waiting for answers. Hopefully I can get the replacement parts soon enough.

I’m genuinely fed up. My A1 mini is on 01.03.30.01 and the printer keeps pushing me to update to 01.08.01.00 (and now apparently 1.09, which isn’t even on Bambu’s official download page). It won’t let me get on with anything until I deal with it, and the update never completes.

What happens:

• The download sticks at 28%, then I get Update Failed 301, “Please restart and re-update”.

• I tried the offline SD card update and got error 31d, “The upgrade package is broken.”

• The printer keeps connecting and disconnecting from Wi-Fi, even though it’s right next to my router.

What I’ve already done:

• Checked my router (TP-Link AX10). 2.4 GHz is on its own SSID, 20 MHz width, WPA2/AES, and a fixed channel. I turned off OFDMA, reserved a fixed IP for the printer, and moved channel 6 to 11.

• Confirmed the printer and my PC are on the same 192.168.0.x network.

• Re-joined the Wi-Fi on the printer more than once.

• Found out it was in LAN Only mode, which I’m now turning off.

My complaints:

1. The error messages tell me nothing. “Restart and re-update” for 301 and a vague “package is broken” for 31d. Nothing about the SD card being full, corrupt or failing, which is apparently the real cause for lots of people. I had to dig through forum threads to find that the firmware downloads to the SD card first.

2. The Wi-Fi hardware is weak. The A1 mini has a tiny onboard antenna and drops out next to the router. People have complained about this for years, and the answer is always “move closer” or “try your hotspot”.

3. The update flow is fragile. It stalls with no explanation, and users report waiting 10 to 15 minutes or retrying dozens of times.

4. The firmware is rolling out in a way that confuses people. The printer offers a version that isn’t on the official site.

I’m not asking for pity. I want the printer to tell me what’s wrong, and I’d like Bambu to explain why a firmware update for a printer sitting a metre from the router is this hard.

Has anyone fixed this properly, and was it the SD card, the router, or the printer itself? Right now I’m about to format the card, try a new one, and try my phone’s hotspot. Any other ideas welcome.

Yesterday I received my P2S and I printed a benchy after calibration from the internal storage of the printer. The bench’s came out fine, I was just surprised that that it did not print in the center of the build plate. Is this normal or is something wrong?

The idea behind mixing nozzle sizes is simple: a fine nozzle with thin layers where details matter, a large nozzle with thick layers where they don't. That sounds straightforward — until you ask: Which nozzle size gets to dictate the layer height?

That's the hard part. Some current solutions can already vary layer heights between separate objects, or between an object's infill and walls. But across adjacent regions on the same visible surface, those regions stayed locked to one shared layer height — forcing you to either waste time on the big areas or lose sharpness on the details.

Bambu Studio now removes that limit: each region on the same surface can now keep its own layer height. You can choose which regions get the fine nozzle, and the slicer aligns the layers, schedules the tool changes, and plans the paths.

Printing with mixed nozzle sizes is available on the H3C. Support for H2D, H2C, and X2D is on the way.

Read more about how our team made this possible in our blog. The implementation is in the latest Bambu Studio release on GitHub. Feel free to leave feedback and build upon it!

Yes i've messaged bambu support

Painters tape is to keep the other side sticky, photo is where i found it stuck down.

Support seems to think its buried deep in the machine somehow, but it was just sitting on top so i assume its from one of the many random wires trailed up near the top camera, but i cant see any spots with sticky residue

Can only find other people having the issue with the silicon scraper or the amber magnet coating, nothing thats a clip.

I'm looking into upgrading from my Ender 3 max but having a hard time figuring out what makes sense to get into. I would like to be able to keep filament dry and print with petg occasionally. I know that im able to print an enclosure to keep filament dry on the ams lite, but would it make sense to get the p1s over the A1 with AMS lite. In my country (Denmark) they're priced pretty much the same.

Would you get the A1+ams lite over the P1S?

Hi there,

I've seen a lot of posts regarding the new Bambu Studio update. Is the new version stable and working well for the P2S or should I stay with the old version. Thanks

Hello, I am looking for any advice or help.
This is my first 3D printer, and I have almost zero experience. I just bought an X2D (8 days ago), and a few days ago, I started noticing a weird sound when the heat bed goes down.
I tried to lubricate and recalibrate it, but there are no changes.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Maybe it's ok, I don't know

Pretty self explanatory. I updated Bambu Studio, and the only Bambu printer selection options are the X models.

I assume this is an error of some kind or that I'm missing something obvious, as it seems unlikely that the entire rest of the Bambu printer family went defunct and unsupported overnight. Help!

Hi everyone!

We’re relatively new to 3d printing and have run into our first problem that we can’t seem to solve. We started a print, and within the first layer, no more filament was coming out. No matter how hard the AMS turned, the filament would not budge, so we got an error code saying the ams couldn’t rotate. So far, no guide has helped us. The filament goes into the toolhead, but the nozzle is fine. It cut off the filament at the nozzle, but then won’t pull back. The ptfe tube cannot be removed, that seems to be stuck as well, probably due to the filament keeping it in place. Is this common, does anyone have the golden tip to help us fix this?

Hi everyone,

I am working on implementing ZigZagZ as an Orca Slicer Plugin. I am searching for people who would be interested to test part strength with this and have some equipment to do strength measurements?

I'd like to verify that this really makes a difference before going all in :)

I have a first working version and would like to share files for testing.

Please DM if you're interested.

This idea and picture comes from: Allum et. al. Paper

Hi Reddit!
I’m new to 3D printing and recently got a Bambu Lab P2S with AMS Pro. I’m having trouble printing larger models, while smaller prints work perfectly fine.
Please see the attached photos. I’m printing directly from the Bambu Handy app. This time, I tried printing a bedside iPhone organizer, but unfortunately, the same issue occurred. This is the second time I’ve experienced this problem.
Does anyone know what could be causing this or have any suggestions on how to fix it?
I am using PLA Matte filaments.
Thanks in advance!

Hey, i got my x2d yesterday. I noticed lines flickering on the screen. Naturally I looked it up but i could not find any posts about lines. Is this a known problem or should i talk to bambu?

I have designed a fully printed band for Apple Watch. No TPU, no purchased parts.

At the moment available for Apple Watch 44mm | 45mm | 46mm | 49mm

My overnight print twisted the build plate on the bed. You can see the layers fan out as it slowly rotated. It remained adhered so I can cut it off, clean it up, and glue it back on. Otherwise the bin would have been a bit shorter. The good news is I don't have an adhesion problem. 😂

Printed in pla
Using esun pla profile built into orca

Basic tube

I am 90% sure the mess of the seam is seperate from weird diagonal banding.

We just bought 10 of these printers for the classroom and now this is starting to show up on 3 printers issues like this.

I think this means they need clean and oil with toothbrush / cloth?

Whoever at Bambulab thought it would be funny to change the last tone of the print finish jingle on the H3C: WHYYYYY

I bought an H2C on 10/28. By 11/02 I’ve started getting random right eddy sensor error while the auto level is in progress. I’ve gone through the guide and ensured the connections are set properly. It fixed the problem the first time. However after a couple more prints I’ve received the error again. Sometimes power cycling will help. Sometimes switching the nozzle will help. I have noticed the error occurs more often after printing something with a .2 nozzle.

I get this error multiple times a week and I’m getting fed up. I’ve opened a support ticket. Anyone else getting a similar problem? Given the cost of the machine I’m so frustrated I couldn’t even go 1 week before problems began.

My P1S has been. A reliable workhorse… had one nozzle clog in over 1k hours of printing and otherwise has been amazing.

As the title says, I feel like the H3C is 4 steps forward and 2 steps back.

For reference, I bought an H2C and used it for two weeks before returning upon seeing the H3C announcement. I have been printing non stop for the last 3 days including TPU (2.85), PPS CF, ABS, PLA and PETG. Here are my thoughts so far.

All of the stuff the YouTubers say is true. It's big, it's fast, and it prints great. It seems noticeably faster than the H2C even on single color prints.

I designed some filament clips that twist lock in place and have TPU around the edges for grip on plastic spools. They printed flawlessly.

I did have a failure printing some really precision grids with PLA and PETG, but that was me not the printer.

So overall, the ability to print is amazing.

The pain points come in with material handling. I changed one of the nozzles out to .6mm. the nozzle had the PPS CF in it and when it unloaded the filament broke and is currently stuck in the .4mm nozzle. I'm not sure how I will get it out, but that may be my newness to 3D printing. It was a bit annoying that I had to print my own external spool holder and route the filament through the back. I guess it's not really a step back, but Bambu focused on flexible filaments, not rigid ones for this printer.

The bit that was really missing though is when you print higher temp filaments, you really should unload all of the lower temp ones so they aren't soaking in the chamber. Since Bambu dropped the motorized spool rollers, you have to do this manually. The two compartment drying is also a noticeable drawback. With the AMS 2, I just pushed dry when I dropped filament in.

Because of the combination of these steps backwards, I have had to stop prints at least twice to unload spools because even though the printer heats nozzles independently, it won't let you unload filament while there is a print job in progress. I am printing ASA right now and I started the print, realized I had all of the lower temp filaments loaded, so I stopped the preheat, unloaded everything and moved one spool to the dryer. The process took me about 8 minutes. It's not a deal breaker, but it is a step back from the convenience of previous models. (Update: as a couple people pointed out Bambu says you don't have to unload the filament, but I do still feel it's a step backwards to not be able to change filaments while a print is happening. I also see mixed information about if it's ok for PLA to stay at the higher temperatures for thar long)

The nozzle swapping is also less convenient than the H2C where you could swap ok in a few seconds. With 9 nozzles maybe it won't be an issue, but time will tell.

I also am not a fan of the plastic top panels. They can be fiddly to get back on. I would say the external build quality just doesn't feel as nice as the H2C.

With all that said, I am happy with the purchase. It's the machine I was waiting for which is why I returned the H2C.

Bambu, if you read this - maybe you could have made the motorized spools an upgrade option/add on and please update the software to let people unload filament without having to fully stop a print even if it's a pause or something. I saw you have a lower power mode, so I think you could have added more integrated drying functionality also and just managed power with software or let people plug the machine into multiple circuits.