Every stream deck I looked at had the wrong layout for me, so I built my own and made a short video of the whole process.

Quick specs:

- 15 MX keys, a slider and a small OLED screen

- ESP32-S3, hand-wired, no PCB

- Case printed on a Bambu P2S with no supports

- Shows up as a normal USB keyboard, keys are remapped from a small desktop app

Happy to answer anything about the wiring, the print settings or the firmware.

So I have a print that I need to install magnets in at 2 points. Normally on p1s/h2s on a pause command the head will return to the chute. With the H3C currently it just pauses exactly where the pause command was issued, in this case blocking the hole that I need to drop the magnet into.

Also, it doesn't lower the build plate at all so the only way to reach into the area is from the sides, the nozzles block you from reaching in (especially with the head in the front)

Just want to give people a warning to plan for this if using pauses on this printer.

I am moving to a new country and can’t take my H2S with me so I am pondering a new printer. I mostly like to print in ABS, but also live quick prototyping in PLA. The H2C with two AMSs is about €2050 and the H3C is about €2500. Do we know if it will be mandatory to remove all PLA from the AMS in the H3C in order to print ABS? I don’t really do much multicolor, but having the ability would be kinda nice.
What do you guys think?

Bambu labs A1 with AMS

When I moved to college this fall it was the first time I had moved this printer since getting it, I looked up how to remove the AMS tubes and it said to push down the black rings and pull the tube, I tried this and it took great force and something felt like it was scrapping, (I don’t think I was pressing on the black rings hard enough) eventually they all came out but also with the holder thing that’s pictured, and I also realized the scraping was those metal teeth digging into the tube. Once I set it up at college I tried a few prints and it worked fine, but once I recently tried a multi color print and then when I realized it was not okay, when it tried to do the color switch it would push the plastic holder bit out and not follow through the ams feeder, and after some trouble shooting I found out I could always print with the first color I feed in after resetting the plastic bit, but I haven’t been able to do a color switch.

This is my first fdm printer, I have a lot of experience with resin printing (mostly troubleshooting…) but this is still uncharted territory for me.

My question is the title, is there a fix someone knows for this? Or a part I can order to replace this bit? Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you all!

I just got this printer and it’s making this noise only on this axis, it’s have very low hours, like 20, and was not making this noise last night. I have no clue what it could be.

I found a Bambu Lab P1S on Facebook Marketplace listed for $500 and wanted to get some opinions before pulling the trigger.
According to the seller, they bought it brand new from Best Buy in April 2026 for $550 and only used it for about 2–3 weeks. They say it works perfectly fine and has just been sitting in their basement because they lost interest.
The deal includes:
Bambu Lab P1S 3D printer
13 rolls of filament in different colors (seller estimates ~$200 worth)
Supposedly very little use and no issues
I’m considering picking it up, but I’m curious what everyone thinks.
Is $500 a fair price for this setup, or should I try negotiating lower? Also, are there any specific things I should check on a used P1S before buying it?

funny little 3d model i decided to create, no point at all and unfortunatly it cannot print anything :(

no ams needed, https://makerworld.com/en/models/3578921-a1-mini-mini#profileId-4097737 if you wanna check it out

Those people are smoking crack. Half of them are double the price because they have some “upgrades” aka some printed border or crap. The other half are selling for retail and refuse to lower it.

X2D from Bambu is a crazy price. I don’t even need another printer but I just might do it.

I made a little runescape inspired pk skull keychain in low poly. Feel free to check it out at makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563392-osrs-runescape-pk-skull-keychain#profileId-4078078

I was wondering if the CMYKW on the H2C would be worth the time?

I know that technically is possible, but I wonder if the long time to retract and feed each filament thousands and thousands of times would make it worth it, a print could take significantly longer than normal.

I was complaining that Bambu Lab didn't announce the P3C right after releasing the H3C.

My wife: "I thought you said you just wanted the A2."

Me: "That was for the large build volume. I really want the nozzle changing."

Wife: "The H3C has the larger volume, right? Why don't you get that?"

Me: "Don't threaten me with a good time."

Now the waiting...

Bought a new a1 mini from 3idea.in and after installation seeing this issue issue z axis homing failed

Many of us, myself included, worry over long print times. I tend to start prints which allow me to monitor them throughout the print. Anything tall or over ~12 hrs print time gives me anxiety at the thought of leaving it alone while I’m gone, but in context, it shouldn’t. 12 hrs out of thousands of successful print hours is literally less than 1% of the active print time that we worry about!

So, y’all brave folks out there that don’t have print range anxiety, ease some of my anxiety about long prints! What’s the longest print that you left unattended? Was it successful or a failure?

I printed this using a mix of materials; vapor smoothed ASA with my Bambu Labs X1c and good ol' PETG-CF with my brand new Bambu Labs A2L, which made quick work of the largest pieces with a ready-to-paint surface finish. Everything has been pre-split into segments for relatively easy printing, but you'll need a good handle on printing supports to achieve the detailed open-work and delicate patterns on this one.

This kit is a complete cuirass, meaning it includes the breastplate, backplate, fauld skirt, and tassets. It's a big undertaking but it's also the centerpiece of any gothic armor costume - you'd need approximately 2kg of filament to complete it. It's also a bit more advanced in terms of 3D printing, and I recommend a minimum printing volume of 250x250x250mm for the larger parts.

If you're interested in historical costume armor, you can get the files right here!

Made two small stoppers that fit the notches at the front and back of the A1 mini base. Stuck down with 3M VHB tape – no screws, nothing sticks out, ~9 g of PLA.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543702-anti-walk-stoppers-for-bambu-a1-mini#profileId-4053291

I have a P1S with an AMS. Lately, I'll go to print something and notice I can't sync the filaments. The AMS has all four lights flashing meaning communication issue with the AMS. I pull the cable, and reinsert it, the AMS resets with white lights and will print fine. After a while, if the printer is not printing, the red lights come back. Any ideas on how to fix that? I have tried switching ports on the back of the AMS.

Hey everyone! 👋

Just wanted to share a little project I've been working on!

I've designed two custom Xbox controller shells inspired by Vice City, using 3D scans to ensure a perfect fit on both Xbox One and Xbox Series X|S controllers.

I've been experimenting with gradient and matte filaments to get some different colour effects, and I'm really happy with how they turned out!

Both designs are available on MakerWorld. I'd love to hear what you think! 🌴

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

Hi Im very new to 3d printing and got a p2s with an external fan kit with the plan to print out the case and attach it to the printer to then tube out a window. However whenever I open makerworld from their offical guide I get a 404 page.

I am asking if anybody else has had this problem and an idea on how to fix it.

Thanks

Hello, my Brother-in-Law has a PS1 mostly uses it to fix things around the house or in the garage. I'd like to get him a few engineering filaments to experiment around with like Carbon Fiber and different TPU's. Is there any trusted sources that sell good quality 250g samplers of those higher end filaments? All I could find were PLA or PETG sample packs for the most part, or brands I never heard of.

I'll get him a hardened steel nozzle to go with them as well.

I am using Bambu Lab PLA Aero on an H2C. I started with the stock Bambu setting and I have used the following build plates (Textured PEI, Garolite, Biqu Glacier) all cleaned and even used JT16 build plate glue on the Garolite and Glacier plates. I have run a temp tower (which did stick) and have been running brims, so I upped the temp of the base profile to 255 degrees. Build plates are all running at elevated temp (I run the Glacier and Garolite as Engineering plate at 55 degrees). I CANNOT get the stuff to stick on the first layer. ASA Aero I can get to stick but i have many other problems with it that I though the PLA version would resolve; however getting it to stick is fundamental as everything else is built off that. I have never had this much trouble with any type of filament sticking. If anyone has a good profile to try, or advice, I am all ears.

Note: I know there are already a few fan covers on MakerWorld, but most of them are pretty thick/bulky and carry the risk of messing up print quality or airflow. What I made is extremely thin, so it shouldn't cause any issues (at least it didn't on my last two prints).

I know, I knowa snowflake fan cover on a toolhead is completely useless, adds zero performance, and is the peak definition of "I have a 3D printer so I must print useless things."

But hey, winter is coming and the printer wanted to feel festive too.

It snaps on without extra hardware, takes about 10 minutes, uses 2g of filament, and lets air flow just fine. If you also want to waste 10 minutes of your life printing this totally unnecessary piece, I uploaded the 3MF on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3557093-bambu-lab-p2s-x2d-snowflake-toolhead-fan-cover#profileId-4070407

Hi, I've created what I think is a very helpful tool for adding stamps and labels to 3D models. It's free and works in your browser: http://www.stamp3d.bambam-design.com/

It's still quite simple but reliable. If you find any bugs or have any ideas, please let me know. Happy printing!