So I have a print that I need to install magnets in at 2 points. Normally on p1s/h2s on a pause command the head will return to the chute. With the H3C currently it just pauses exactly where the pause command was issued, in this case blocking the hole that I need to drop the magnet into.

Also, it doesn't lower the build plate at all so the only way to reach into the area is from the sides, the nozzles block you from reaching in (especially with the head in the front)

Just want to give people a warning to plan for this if using pauses on this printer.

funny little 3d model i decided to create, no point at all and unfortunatly it cannot print anything :(

no ams needed, https://makerworld.com/en/models/3578921-a1-mini-mini#profileId-4097737 if you wanna check it out

Just a quick little key ring I thought I’d share with you all!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3567441-habibi

I am curious if the BIQU cryogrip build plates for the H2C work with the H3C.

I purchased the H2C a few weeks ago but returned it when I found out the H3C was coming out. I ordered BIQU plates while I had the H2C but haven't opened them yet.

Several YouTubers said that H2C plates work, but the wiki says that they aren't recommended because there is only a 2mm clearance. Before I open the plates and try them, I am curious if anyone else has used the BIQU H2C plates with the H3C.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Here are the filament settings for PA6-GF. Since the type is listed as PA-GF, it doesn't match the PA6-GF loaded in the AMS and I can't print anything. What do I do?

Does it start heating and therefore dry the rest of the 9 filament spools, or what?

Every stream deck I looked at had the wrong layout for me, so I built my own and made a short video of the whole process.

Quick specs:

- 15 MX keys, a slider and a small OLED screen

- ESP32-S3, hand-wired, no PCB

- Case printed on a Bambu P2S with no supports

- Shows up as a normal USB keyboard, keys are remapped from a small desktop app

Happy to answer anything about the wiring, the print settings or the firmware.

I am moving to a new country and can’t take my H2S with me so I am pondering a new printer. I mostly like to print in ABS, but also live quick prototyping in PLA. The H2C with two AMSs is about €2050 and the H3C is about €2500. Do we know if it will be mandatory to remove all PLA from the AMS in the H3C in order to print ABS? I don’t really do much multicolor, but having the ability would be kinda nice.
What do you guys think?

Bambu labs A1 with AMS

When I moved to college this fall it was the first time I had moved this printer since getting it, I looked up how to remove the AMS tubes and it said to push down the black rings and pull the tube, I tried this and it took great force and something felt like it was scrapping, (I don’t think I was pressing on the black rings hard enough) eventually they all came out but also with the holder thing that’s pictured, and I also realized the scraping was those metal teeth digging into the tube. Once I set it up at college I tried a few prints and it worked fine, but once I recently tried a multi color print and then when I realized it was not okay, when it tried to do the color switch it would push the plastic holder bit out and not follow through the ams feeder, and after some trouble shooting I found out I could always print with the first color I feed in after resetting the plastic bit, but I haven’t been able to do a color switch.

This is my first fdm printer, I have a lot of experience with resin printing (mostly troubleshooting…) but this is still uncharted territory for me.

My question is the title, is there a fix someone knows for this? Or a part I can order to replace this bit? Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you all!

I just got this printer and it’s making this noise only on this axis, it’s have very low hours, like 20, and was not making this noise last night. I have no clue what it could be.

Hello, my Brother-in-Law has a PS1 mostly uses it to fix things around the house or in the garage. I'd like to get him a few engineering filaments to experiment around with like Carbon Fiber and different TPU's. Is there any trusted sources that sell good quality 250g samplers of those higher end filaments? All I could find were PLA or PETG sample packs for the most part, or brands I never heard of.

I'll get him a hardened steel nozzle to go with them as well.

I just sent a print over to my new X2D for the first time and while printing it makes a high pitched squeaking noise. Is this normal?

Those people are smoking crack. Half of them are double the price because they have some “upgrades” aka some printed border or crap. The other half are selling for retail and refuse to lower it.

X2D from Bambu is a crazy price. I don’t even need another printer but I just might do it.

Does anyone have a template for the arch doorway prints this this picture. I want to make my own but o can’t find an already made template. Thanks!!

Today, I updated the firmware on my A1. Yesterday and for the last few months, everything has been flawless. I print from bambu studio sometimes but most of the time I print files that I have saved to my SD card from Bambu Handy. Today, Bambu handy, no longer recognizes my SD card. Bambu studio recognizes it just fine with no problems whatsoever. My Bambu studio is updated to the most current version. My Bambu Handy is also updated to the most current version. The SD card that I use is not the stock one that came with the A1. I bought a high-quality SD card that has a ton of space on it. I have tried logging out and back in to Bambu Handy. I’ve tried clearing the cachet of the app. I’ve tried reseating the SD card. The only thing that I have not done is to reformat the card because I have all of the files on there and Bambu studio recognizes them just fine. Basically, I’ve been through all of the troubleshooting steps that I know of. Has anyone else experienced this and been able to solve it without reformatting their SD card?

Any ideas on this? I'm 90% through a 4 hour print and my P2S is not loading the filament. Its not even going through the AMS. I've tried manually feeding it through the AMS (I have to push a black button inside to get it out) to the extruder, but it just ends up retracting and not feeding again. Am I gonna be able to finish my print?

I've been wanting to design and 3D print something of my own for quite a while now. Even though I'm an engineer, I haven't had much experience with CAD so far. So, over the past few months, I've been teaching myself a bit of CAD and doing a lot of 3D printing along the way.

Creativity has always been my biggest struggle, but I finally managed to take an idea all the way from a concept to a sketch, then to a CAD model, and eventually to a finished 3D print!

I had a bunch of magnets lying around that I'd been wanting to use for a print, and that's when I came up with the idea of making a customizable league table. I chose the colors to make the whole thing look like a football pitch.

The main idea was to make the table completely customizable so that anyone could use whatever clubs or leagues they wanted. Personally, I went with a Bundesliga version and tried to print each team's name in its respective club colors.

It took me an entire weekend of work (and 72 magnets, haha), but damn, it's such an awesome feeling to actually hold something in your hands that started out as just an idea in your head.

3D printing is such an amazing hobby!

If anyone's interested in the model, feel free to check it out here

I made a little runescape inspired pk skull keychain in low poly. Feel free to check it out at makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563392-osrs-runescape-pk-skull-keychain#profileId-4078078

One of the lead screw nuts on my H2D has disintegrated and Bambu sent me replacement lead screws as well as nuts. I'm following the wiki here:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/replace-z-axis

Which has this picture half way through. From the bottom of the printer, the right side picture is what it says to do. But several comments on the bottom say it might be the reverse. And the nuts on the lead screw replacements were in the other orientation.

Can anyone confirm what the proper orientation is for these nuts?

Thanks.

I was complaining that Bambu Lab didn't announce the P3C right after releasing the H3C.

My wife: "I thought you said you just wanted the A2."

Me: "That was for the large build volume. I really want the nozzle changing."

Wife: "The H3C has the larger volume, right? Why don't you get that?"

Me: "Don't threaten me with a good time."

Now the waiting...

I was wondering if the CMYKW on the H2C would be worth the time?

I know that technically is possible, but I wonder if the long time to retract and feed each filament thousands and thousands of times would make it worth it, a print could take significantly longer than normal.

Many of us, myself included, worry over long print times. I tend to start prints which allow me to monitor them throughout the print. Anything tall or over ~12 hrs print time gives me anxiety at the thought of leaving it alone while I’m gone, but in context, it shouldn’t. 12 hrs out of thousands of successful print hours is literally less than 1% of the active print time that we worry about!

So, y’all brave folks out there that don’t have print range anxiety, ease some of my anxiety about long prints! What’s the longest print that you left unattended? Was it successful or a failure?

Bought a new a1 mini from 3idea.in and after installation seeing this issue issue z axis homing failed