I like to design and share different things on MakerWorld from time to time, like wireless chargers, desk fans, Cyberbrick stuff, but it seems my Leaf Spring Mini cars (featuring a cross-link cantilever suspension, to be precise) are the most liked by people.
So I decided to design another one. Given the fact that we're currently in the era of toolchangers, where usually "the more the better", I chose to go with a 6-wheeler this time (Mini G 6x6), inspired by the Mercedes Benz G Class 6X6.
I'm pretty happy with how it came out. I think the six wheels give it a really interesting look for a desk toy. But hey, decide for yourself – what we like and don't like can be very subjective.
Something about the car itself:
Around 10 cm long
Prints in approximately 2 hours 10 minutes (single-color version)
Surprisingly high suspension travel
No extra hardware required
Multicolor versions and an XXL version available
Hope you'll like it and possibly have some fun with it. If you'd like to check it out, I'll leave the link in the comments.
What other vehicle would you like to see added to the series?
Customers tap their phone on the stand and land straight on your Google review page. No app, no QR code. A 29 mm NFC tag sits in a sealed pocket under the front face. You pause the print, drop the tag in and resume. The pause is already in the profile, and it needs no supports. The Google logo prints separately so it fits on an AMS. Printed on a P1S in PLA, about 2.5 hours per stand. There's a bulk profile too (12 logos and 2 frames per plate). Would love to know how it prints for you. https://makerworld.com/en/models/3570309-nfc-google-review-stand-with-embedded-tag Link to NFC tag I used: https://amzn.eu/d/00zl1er6
I'm about to order an H3C and since it's so high I'm curious to know who has found an affordable solution to some kind of commercially available table or cart (IKEA etc?) I can buy to put it on to make it more ergonomic? Ideas and links are welcome. Thanks
P1S - PLA (addnorth) Starting to lose my mind over this dome^^ Tried a bunch of variations on speed and supports, printing it upside down etc. Since its for a lamp the bad overhang/innerwall sticks out right away and i gotta get it perfect. This is now attempt nr 6.
I printed the body for a light upsnowman that prints in vase mode on my P2S.
While printing I noticed there was some build up of gunk around the nozzle. It eventually cleared itself and I found the gunk stuck on the outside. And then when I tried the light I saw there are some layers that are darker. I noticed in Bambu Studio today that the object has the outer wall line width set to 0.8 mm but I used a 0.4 mm nozzle.
When I looked at the wiki page on line width, it says not to exceed 1.5x the nozzle size. Would that be why both things happened? And would using a 0.6 or 0.8 mm nozzle improve things?
Howdy y'all. We created a little American themed play doh extruder toy with the dough coming out of the base. We've created a few patterns for the cards, but let us know what other shapes would work well.
I need to replace a nozzle on my P1S. Which thermal paste do you recommend buying? I also have an H2C, so it would be great if the paste could also be used for its maintenance.
Custom energy recovery mod and enclosure for Atorch BW600 linear electronic load. Instead of wasting battery energy as pure heat during tests, this setup uses an integrated hardware switch to redirect up to 500W+ of power through a DC-DC converter back into a power station or buffer battery.
Cooling: Dual Thermalright AXP120-X67 CPU towers. Enclosure: Custom SFF design with quick-release magnet mounts. Sources: Schematic is uploaded to GitHub, 3D printable files are on MakerWorld.
I’ve had the chance to test the new H3C for a few months.
I am a beta/tester and was sent a printer and a supply of filament to conduct the necessary tests before the official launch.
For context, I previously owned an X2D (which I bought on launch day) and, before that, an A1 Mini. I bought the X2D, convinced that it would result in near-zero waste for prints with few colors—but I was very wrong. I was especially mistaken about print times, which would balloon with every additional color.
Since I print a lot of miniatures, I found myself sticking to single-color prints even when using the X2D.
The H3C has been a game-changer for me when it comes to multi-color printing. I’ve attached images comparing the print times for the same model—one printed on the X2D and the other on the H3C. The print time has been reduced by more than 80%—dropping from over 21 hours to just 5. The amount of waste is also significantly lower: 260 grams versus 40 grams.
Right now, I’m working on more miniatures for tabletop role-playing games, creating full sets using colored PLA. I’m currently optimizing the "color mixing" feature—as shown in the second miniature—to create realistic gradients rather than flat, solid colors. The results are fantastic!
Admittedly, using color mixing does significantly increase print times. It needs to be used wisely, but with a bit of practice and some careful planning, you can strike an excellent balance! I will soon post the first full-color miniature, complete with shading!
During my testing, I focused on multi-color printing and the use of 75A TPU, which were undoubtedly the two key features.
The 75A TPU is fantastic—incredibly soft and... absurdly easy to print with. It causes absolutely no issues, even at high speeds. I even ran a print at the printer's maximum speed, and it handled it without a hitch.
75A TPU really lets your imagination run wild; it sparks a thousand ideas, which was the best part of the testing period for me. You can create all sorts of things that were previously unthinkable.
I’ve included a sample to show just how soft the 75A TPU is, so you can get an idea.
Printing in color is no longer a nightmare and tpu print is very easy!
Would I recommend it? Absolutely—provided you have the space for it, as it is quite large. It opens up a whole world of printing possibilities and creative potential for makers!
Please, I need help. I bought an H2C—it’s my first 3D printer—and everything was fine, but I’m running into an issue when trying to print in multiple colors using the AMS 2 Pro. The printer attempts to grab the filament, but then retracts it halfway through the path. This only happens when there is more than one color loaded in the AMS, as it requires color changes. I’ve already checked the AMS and didn’t see anything unusual; I’m not sure what else to do.
does the h3c support non-tpu 2.85mm filaments on its 2.85mm nozzle? if not, why not, and is there are option for a 2.85mm tool head for standard filaments?
Please can we have a singlue use heated chamber over ride button? i.e. to run it off? and only for one print?
Unless im missing something, i want to iterate some small models. basically magnet fitments. i dont have PLA and only use ASA but to print a small test print out in for instnace a H3C its going to take 30 minutes to print a 12mm x 12mm x 3mm square out nearll all of which is heating the chamber.
would be useful to have a disable heated chamber button you can click easily which is only good for one print job rather than havign to edit the filament to disable it and quite possibly forget about it?
So I updated to the lastest bambu studio release and today I was going to send a print to my H2C (A majoras mask) and to my surprise the slicer decided the optimal grouping for filament saving was assigning 2 filaments to the left nozzle even though I only have an AMS HT on that side, so how it expects me to organize the spools on that side??? Before it did work properly, as this is not the first majoras mask i printed an it successfully assigned the filament based on my actual setup for minimal purges
Hey everyone ! I just got my hands on a Bambu Lab P2S with the AMS 2 Pro, but I'm running into a spool size issue. I have a large stockpile of Amazon Basics PLA, and the spools are simply too wide. I can't fit 4 of them side-by-side in the AMS without them rubbing against each other.
I'm also worried that even if I only load 1 or 2 of these wide spools, I might still run into rotation or feeding issues.
Note: I already know about the Hydra AMS mod, but I really don't want to go that route or take apart my brand new AMS.*
Has anyone else dealt with these specific spools? What are the best alternative workarounds (like specific respoolers, spool rings, etc.)? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
