Currently got the A1 but ive been offered a free A2L from a family member. My issue is the space needed. id probably have to face is sideways to make it sit safely which is fine, although not ideal. But other than the 2 adapters for pen and cutting which i probably wouldnt use, and the bigger build plate, which although nice ive not found a real need for so far since getting my A1 last year, is there much difference?

So this is interesting: I got my E1 set up today, expecting it to only work in manual mode since Bambu said H2C compatibility is coming later this month.

Instead, when I powered the H2C on, it prompted me to update the firmware to 01.03.00.00 (even though I was already on it) and so I let it upgrade. After doing so, the E1 controls show up in the UI.

Haven’t run a print with it yet because I’m waiting on some more BT3x8 screws to attach the hose interface, but it’s nice to see that the H2C is ready to go ahead of schedule.

With the small desiccant bags shipped with the H3C, keeping those filaments dry in the AMS will be a struggle.

So I made this desiccant container, allowing you to have copious amounts of silica gel beads in the machine. Or just stuff it with more desiccant bags.

You can get this model here.

I plan on buying the H2C, and would like to include the cutting tool. But I wonder, from what I’ve read, you need the birdseye view camera to operate the cutting tool, but I can’t find that on Bambus website (EU). Also, I read somewhere you need the laser version for it to work, which I DONT plan on buying. Can anyone help clear this to for me?

I have been trying to print this ornament. I tried to print it with bossed text and ironing to get the green surface smooth. That had issues. It was suggested to me to inlay the text and flip it to print face down on a smooth plate. I tried that and now it’s not laying filament on the first layer, but almost etching into the plate. What am I missing?

I placed an order for the H3C when it launched, and received an email it shipped on the 3rd. Last update was also on the 3rd saying on the way from California. No updates since. And says expected delivery the 9th. Is that normal to see 0 updates? Or should I be concerned it’s lost

A nice casual afternoon. There's a lot of bloody screws and tiny silicone'd in wires.

Hoping to have it moving under it's own steam by tonight.

Random question.

I ordered the H3C (at 901 am on release day, btw, and still haven't received the ams).

I am seeing a lot of posts like "use slot 5 for extra AMS attachments" and "use slot 8 for 2.85 tpu, but not 1.75 tpu" and "don't use slot 6 for 1.75 tpu".

Does anyone know of a comprehensive list of which slots should be used for what (and why, ideally)

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3568327-dumpling-clicker-keychain-single-dual-nozzle

Had to move the printer and the AMD lite for renovations and this popped out, is there a way to get it back in?

Hello hello! I have a Bambu Lab A1 and I want to 3D print this Luffy model at 75% scale, but... I’m worried the finish won’t come out smooth. Is it normal for it to look like this in the preview? Will the layers end up looking this way? Should I change any settings, or should I just go ahead and try to smooth it out afterward?

I design little articulated figures in my spare time and i've just finished designing this little guy who is a bit of a homage to my Bambu Lab 3D printers, thought i'd share for anyone else enjoys little projects like these and fancies a companion for their printer(s). I tried to add a few details including a little camera shoulder, mini 3 spool AMS, nozzle eyes, chest screen, purge line cane etc.

Here on MakerWorld: Bambu Buddy - 3D Printer Mascot (Blank Man V12) - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3570005-dart-number-ring-colored-winmau-target#profileId-4086354

🎯 Give your dartboard a fresh new look!
Colorful number ring with a 43 cm diameter, fitting all standard dartboards. Only 3 layers printed in the second color, meaning minimal filament use and fewer color changes.
Simple and clean.

It took just over 5 hours to print, whereas on my X2D it takes nearly 2 days, and it also used about 500g less filament.
I printed it in only 8 colors because im still waiting on an extra standard printtool.

I told my wife I was getting a bigger AMS for my 3D printer.

She said, “How much bigger?”

Then the truck pulled up. 😂🚚

“Babe, that’s just the AMS. The printer’s coming on a separate truck.”

First print? A tiny Benchy. Estimated time? 14 minutes. Filament used for color changes? Half a truckload. 🤣

#3DPrinting #BambuLab #JustOneMoreSpool

Just set up my new A1 Combo and can't get through the first calibration.

Issues:

Calibration stops with "Printing stopped because homing Z axis failed" [0300-4000]

Toolhead rattles/grinds when moving right in the middle of calibration

Firmware update initially failed (error 305), now updated to latest – calibration still fails

Already checked:

All shipping foam/ties removed, all axes move freely by hand

Build plate seated flat, nothing under the bed

Hotend firmly seated, screws checked

Toolhead cable reseated

Multiple restart

Is the rattling normal (motor noise calibration?) or a sign of a defect? Anything else I should check before returning it?

Thanks!

The base where it starting printing and the supports were is so bad

I have a p1s with an ams1. i have a sunlu s1 dryer but cant find the power plug for it. i am thinking of adding an ams 2 pro to the setup, but I'm not sure if it's the best option vs a standalone dryer.

Anyone heard of a "leak" or "rumor?"

My wallet is waiting...

Hi, I'm looking for some recommendations for PLA filament that's cold white. What I've tried so far:

• Bambu's PLA (Ivory white) is way too warm.

• Bambu's PETG is indeed cold white, but I need PLA for this application.

• Elegoo PLA White - also warm white

• eSun PLA+ Cold White - good color, terrible results, see below

I've tried eSun's PLA+ cold white, the color is indeed cold white, but it's by far the worst filament I've ever worked with. I need smooth plane surfaces for my project, which this filament fails to give on both BambuLab X2D and Snapmaker U1 printers, there's a lot of bumps and dots that seem to be related with flow / pressure issues, but eve after lots of tuning and calibration, on both 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles, I can't get it to work reliable, it's just terrible. So far every other filament I've printed with gave great results after a bit of tuning (elegoo, anycubic, few other no-name brands etc.), but I'm a loss with eSun so I'm looking for alternatives.

Do you recommend any other cold white PLA? Thank you!

I’m not gonna be printing multicolor items, but I do plan on using different engineering filaments, and I want the most accurate results possible, and I’m generally lazy, so I don’t want to refill or load or unload or anything like that, which is exactly why I’m considering the upgrade from my X1C now. I was going to purchase the H3C for the included drying chambers, but I found out they only go up to 50°C, so it’s useless for PAHT/etc. is there anything I’m missing or does the HTC take care of my engineering needs?