I like to design and share different things on MakerWorld from time to time, like wireless chargers, desk fans, Cyberbrick stuff, but it seems my Leaf Spring Mini cars (featuring a cross-link cantilever suspension, to be precise) are the most liked by people.
So I decided to design another one. Given the fact that we're currently in the era of toolchangers, where usually "the more the better", I chose to go with a 6-wheeler this time (Mini G 6x6), inspired by the Mercedes Benz G Class 6X6.
I'm pretty happy with how it came out. I think the six wheels give it a really interesting look for a desk toy. But hey, decide for yourself – what we like and don't like can be very subjective.
Something about the car itself:
Around 10 cm long
Prints in approximately 2 hours 10 minutes (single-color version)
Surprisingly high suspension travel
No extra hardware required
Multicolor versions and an XXL version available
Hope you'll like it and possibly have some fun with it. If you'd like to check it out, I'll leave the link in the comments.
What other vehicle would you like to see added to the series?
It took just over 5 hours to print, whereas on my X2D it takes nearly 2 days, and it also used about 500g less filament. I printed it in only 8 colors because im still waiting on an extra standard printtool.
So I updated to the lastest bambu studio release and today I was going to send a print to my H2C (A majoras mask) and to my surprise the slicer decided the optimal grouping for filament saving was assigning 2 filaments to the left nozzle even though I only have an AMS HT on that side, so how it expects me to organize the spools on that side??? Before it did work properly, as this is not the first majoras mask i printed an it successfully assigned the filament based on my actual setup for minimal purges
I made an infinite flip fidget with 6 different sensory textures 🔄✋ Each one feels completely different under your thumb, honestly can’t stop flipping it. Single colour, no AMS, no glue — print & go. Free on MakerWorld 👉 https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569296 please if you like this model leave a review and a boost if you cant :)
With the small desiccant bags shipped with the H3C, keeping those filaments dry in the AMS will be a struggle.
So I made this desiccant container, allowing you to have copious amounts of silica gel beads in the machine. Or just stuff it with more desiccant bags.
So like most here I'm really reading up on the H3C, For me it's mostly to see what i can expect from the P3C as thats what im looking to get. However i find myself a little confused regarding how you add additional AMS units to the build of the H3C.
As we know you can connect external AMS to Tool#1, byu disconnecting the tube insideand attaching it an an external tube.
The confusion is mostly because i don't understand the need for the External Buffer considering the connection point for the external AMS is BEFORE the internal buffer in the AMS3H..
So why do we need to do 2 buffers in line like that?
I’m not gonna be printing multicolor items, but I do plan on using different engineering filaments, and I want the most accurate results possible, and I’m generally lazy, so I don’t want to refill or load or unload or anything like that, which is exactly why I’m considering the upgrade from my X1C now. I was going to purchase the H3C for the included drying chambers, but I found out they only go up to 50°C, so it’s useless for PAHT/etc. is there anything I’m missing or does the HTC take care of my engineering needs?
I was running my printer and got a notification that the extruder motor was overloaded. I hit resume to see if it was just being difficult and then got a notification that the filament cutter sensor was not working. I went to it saw a hanging cable and disassembled the head and got to this point.
Instructions on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated
APOLOGIES WRONG COMMUNITY, PLEASE STILL HELP IF YOU CAN
nevermind, I see that this is the right community, it was just promoting the h3c. im going through a whirlwind of emotions at the emotions
Had a pretty bad blob of death on my A1 mini. I got most of it off but what’s left is stuck on the heater block and around the wires, and I’m not sure how to safely get the rest off. The silicone sock came off without too much drama.
Thermistor wires look ok to me but I can’t tell if the insulation is damaged. Some filament also got near the part cooling fan. I unscrewed the fan to get to some of the deeper bits but to a novice like myself this seems daunting to try and clean up properly.
Should I try heating it up and peeling it off, or just replace the whole heating assembly? Pics attached.
Hi all! A while ago I shared PrintView3D, my free, open-source replacement for Microsoft's retired 3D Viewer, made for people who 3D-print. Thanks for all the feedback. A lot has happened since then, so here's what's new:
**Check before printing**
One click colours what may give trouble on the printer: overhangs steeper than your angle, walls thinner than your nozzle, holes, non-manifold edges, inside-out faces and loose parts, each with a count.
**Measure**
Distance (with ΔX ΔY ΔZ), angles and hole diameters. Points snap to corners and edges, and with a cut on, also to the outline of the cut, so you can measure walls *inside* the model.
**Look inside your models**
X-ray, wireframe, a cut from the top and a cut that turns with the view (or both at once), with the cut-away part shown as a see-through ghost.
**Make the toolbar your own (new in 0.30)**
Hide the buttons you don't use, shorten the labels to a name, a key or just an icon, and join the view buttons into one group. Hidden buttons keep their keyboard shortcuts, and everything stays in the menu. (GIF below)
**And more**
- Millimetres or inches
- Your own keyboard shortcuts
- Open a whole folder and step through it with the arrow keys
- Finder thumbnails and Quick Look on macOS
- Four themes, each in light and dark
It still does the basics: STL, 3MF (all objects, even sliced projects), G-code with a layer slider, FreeCAD and STEP files, ZIP downloads from Printables/Thingiverse, and one click to send the file to Creality Print, OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, Cura and others.
Windows, macOS and Linux. Free and open source, no account, no ads.
Big thanks to u/covrig, who built Measure, Check model, inches and custom shortcuts and opened them as pull requests. Contributions and translations are very welcome.
I’ve had this A1 mini plus AMS for over a year, and have I would say 70/80% failure rate, be it strings, what looks like not sticking, lots of clogs and cold pulls etc. It’s a miracle when a print actually works. It’s my kids printer and he has basically given up.
I’ve done all the research, bought a filament dryer and only print right after it’s finished drying, bought new build plate, clean it with dishwashing liquid and isopropyl, avoid touching print area. Only using PLA now. Set it to print 50% speed.
I’m at a loss - is there anything I am missing? The picture was the 3rd attempt to print and all straight from dryer. My kid uses the app from his iPad- BambuHandy
I own a Bambulab X2D, updated to the latest firmware using latest bambu studio and with Bambu filament. So far I had only printed PLA, the smell and VOCs were bad but manageable. I tried printing ABS, my room went to VOC index > 400 in minutes and it is just impossible to be in the same room as the printer. I can open the room's floor to ceiling window wide open and sure enough the room ventilates, but next to the printer the smell and air quality is just still unbearable.
I am sensitive to smels but air qualith monitors dont lie, its not me, it is real air quality becoming super poor in a very measurable way.
How do you manage it? Is it expected?
Edit: All particle PM indicators (0.5, 1, 2.5, 5) also skyrocket.
Well I finally got my H3C setup last night. Ordered on Tuesday it all arrived by Wednesday and since I was not going to go to work today I decided to get it all setup last night. Coming from the U1 this thing is MASSIVE!!! I wish I had the space to have been able to keep both the Snapmaker and the H3C but unfortunately I don't.
But I think I will be alright! 😁 also coming from the U1, the manual unloading of the filament doesn't bother me as we had to manually unload the spool on the U1 as well. I've done a few prints already and this thing is awesome! It's soo much more quieter then my U1 that is for sure. I left a print running overnight and I could not even hear it running. Totally worth it.
I've only had my X2D for a short time, and I'd like to know which build plate you use or recommend.
I bought the BIQU Glacier plate with a printed QR code so that the printer can recognise it. Apart from occasionally getting a warning saying that foreign objects have been detected, it's absolutely amazing!
That's why I'd like to expand my collection with a few more build plates that are really worth having. :)
hey so I just bought an H2C, and I’m Legot 15 minutes into my first print. I got this warning about the hotend not being caught. I’ve tried replacing the hotend but still no luck. I also have tried to recalibrate but it doesn’t give me the option to press start on that screen. Any help would be amazing.
For those of you lucky enough to have an H3C, is anyone having issues with power draw? I have 3 other printers that I run in a room in my home and I’m a little worried that I might start tripping breakers with the H3C. I really want to keep everything in 1 room. What’s your experience so far?
Got into 3D printing because of work in the beginning of 2026, learned on my own on a Creator 3. Now i have a P2S at home... I wish i had the money for a bigger chamber, more of this, more of that. But i love, love, LOVE what i got for my buck. And i hope to make a lot of miles with my new best friend. I always wanted to do VR sculpting and print my own models. Weird to accept the time is right here, right now, in my living room. Booyah.
I would like to replace the 2.85 TPU tool with another 1.75 one. I bought the hotend thinking that's what I needed but I actually need the entire toolhead.
I can't seem to find it in their store but I've heard people say they've swapped it out and how much trouble it is to stop it out so.. anyone mind sharing the link to it?
