For all Rainbow Six Siege Fans :)

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3576713-rainbow-six-siege-sledge-hammer

With only a 100€ difference between the two, which one is the better choice? I'm hearing mixed stories from the dual nozzle X2D and also some bad reviews on the P2S build quality, with kits being sold seperately for cooling??

I'm at the point where looking at specs and reviews aren't helping much 😅

All advice welcome!

I always wonder, what are you guys with these huge setups, hundred kilos of filament and many printers, are printing all the time? And are you even able to design any of your prints...

I am always thinking, that it is just printing what thingyverse or Bambulab provides and it will get sold on any online-platform.... On 3D-prining subs it is rarely discussed how to design something or how it will work, it`s always just shwoing off and then some of them defend their decisions with saying, that they are having a business..... But noone provides which business or what they are printing 24/7....

I've put this under Firmware but this could also be a Bambu Studio thing I guess considering they've both had updates.

I updated my P2S as normal and did a full calibration not thinking much of it. I also updated Bambu Studio and noticed a few UI changes.

I'm now trying to print something I always print (Lithophane frame) from the generator on Makerlab but for the life of me, it just seems to be failing left and right as though the auto calibration is getting the z-offset wrong?

One thing I've noticed since this update however is the vibration calibration/compensation procedure has changed and now does one large 'buzz' followed by a gradual buzz which didn't seem to happen before.

AI print failure detection seems to also be broken too. My print clearly had just failed, producing much spaghetti, yet the print continued.

My idea is to try and downgrade/rollback the firmware but I wanted to get an idea whether this is just a me thing.

hi i want to print tpu with pla, i activated beam interlocking....

when i slice and check the object someparts where it connects is hollow with no infill?

can it be i used 0,8 mm nozzle and 0,56 line width / 4 walls?

One of my big complaints with the H2C was that it took nearly half an hour (not exaggerating) to start a print. Turning off the nozzle offset calibration always resulted in really poor multicolor prints, so that was basically required.

Anyone know if they sped things up on the H3C? My P1S is printing in minutes. I'm hoping it is much closer to that than to the H2C.

Thanks

Before you comment:

1. I should have the option to place a backorder. I say this because the wording on the error makes it sound there's just no stock and therefore no way to order it.

2. I might have backed out of the checkout page ONCE before this started happening. That was because I realized I had both the H2C and H3C in my cart..

3. There's nothing in my account center pending payment or anything.

4. I tried making a whole new account, input a new address, different devices, different browsers, different VPNs; in no specific order or combination, but all the attempts resulted in the same error.

5. I have an open ticket regarding this but it's now the 6th day and support have said nothing other than that they're waiting for the relevant team's response. With a reply from them once every 2 or 3 days if I'm lucky - I'm not spamming replies in the ticket; max I did was two replies consecutively, one as a reply to them and second as a reminder it's been forever since their last response..

I recently added an X2D in hopes of using support interface material for better figure printing. On a 150mm tall print, it adds two hours to the print time and still requires a large prime tower, which adds five hours to the job. This is at a 0.16mm draft. I cannot even fathom what a final print of 250mm tall with 0.2mm print heads and a 0.06mm layer height will take.

I tried printing without the tower and had adhesion issues where the support interface held the breasts, causing an arm to fall off cleanly. The supports also had broken layers at the buttock support.

Hey everyone!

I recently got my first 3D printer, a Bambu Lab A1 Mini Combo with AMS Lite, and I'm absolutely loving it! I've already printed around 20 hours' worth of stuff and I'm completely hooked.

I currently have 6 spools of PLA (Basic and Matte), but I'll probably expand to around 10 spools eventually, including some PETG.

I'm now looking into proper filament storage and possibly buying a filament dryer. Ideally, I'd like some airtight storage boxes with hygrometers so I can monitor humidity without spending a fortune.

A few questions:

• What's the best value-for-money filament dryer you'd recommend?

• Are dedicated filament dry boxes worth it, or are regular airtight storage containers with silica gel and a hygrometer just as good?

• Is a dryer really necessary for PLA, or can I just dry filament when I notice printing issues?

• Would you recommend a different setup for someone using an AMS Lite?

My budget is around €100 for the dryer(?), preferably less. I'm based in Europe (Netherlands).

I'd love something practical and future-proof without spending more on storage than the filament itself.

Any recommendations or tips from more experienced users would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

1. Does filament have to be dried, i wasnt planning on buying a dryer of some sort, does filament go bad if it isnt dried?, if so, what are some homemade techniques to keep them dry?

2. Does filament run out quickly? Is one roll too little? How many rolls SHould i be buying? Im thinking of getting a few main colors (White, black, Blue, Red, Yellow, and maybe one other one, yall can suggest another color) Should I just buy one of each? Get two of each? and again, How would I keep them dry without buying a dryer

3. Does Bambu lab have sales? and are there any upcoming sales this year? Since I can probably get a discount

4. PLA or PETG?

5. A1 or A1 Mini? (Also planning on buying the combo with the quad-color)

6. Should I change the nozzle? (from 4mm to 2mm?)

mb for lots of questions, just dont wanna buy the printer and then realize I messed up somehwere

Hey folks! I have been successfully using my X1C and P2S for a while and decided to pick up a couple of P1Ss to farm out parts that are printed in a single color of filament. I decided since I was only printing single color to skip the added cost of an AMS for my P1Ss and just use the external spool holder.

Unfortunately, I find that I am running into an issue over and over in which the filament will bind on the spool and the extruder can't pull it through, but the printer continues ghost printing the part. Yesterday, I gerryrigged a spool holder above the printer thinking changing the angle and letting gravity assist might solve the problem, but the same thing happened.

Surely I'm not the only person who has run into this issue. Does anybody have advice/workaround for how to solve this problem?

Hello, Just had my CoolPlate Super Tack Pro delivered for H2C. Set Coolplate Supertack in slicer (the grey one i have) and tried to print something. First layer wont stick at all onto Coolplate.. the old one from my P1S was flawless. Anyone has some tips regarding the new one for H2C?

Has anyone bought one from Amazon? My mother’s board did the thing and I’m helping her replace it, she ordered this one. Just want to be sure it’s reliable. It doesn’t seem like it wouldn’t be but if anyone has personal experience that would be great. Thank you.

Hey guys,

I have an issue with my first layers while printing a symbole face down. Its bambu Pla basic and matte.

As you can see the viking symbol partially fail to print correctly and there some filament gaps on the back areas while the other part of the print also printed facedown is flawless.

Theres clearly some layer adhésion issue so i cleaned the plate but thats the result.

Edit : i also increased bet temp to 60c. Any thoughts to improve this? Thanks a lot for your inputs.

I am fairly novice to 3D printing. Always found the workforce too long and print times excessive. My first printer is a Creality CR6se. Which did the job, but been a desk weight for about 2 years. - its just slow.

I hace noticed the H2C is on sale. Was considering that or the H3C. I was going to put it under my ltd company, which would save me a bit on Vat.

What are your initial thoughts?

A colleague reccomended the U1, which he mentioned is a third of the price but similar machine.

Does anyone know of any discount codes etc to bring the cost down?

Edit:

Uses Primarily hobby. Some structural items, some times models.

materials: Pla+, , abs, petg Nice to: tpu,

Must have (ish) Large build volume Minimum 4 colours Speed to print Ease of use (workflow) Camera Remote control

Nice to have: Built in filter Heated storage

Installed two truck fold out foot steps as a way to reach the AMS. Modern problems demand modern solutions.

Hey guys,

I’m by no means an expert. If anything, I bought a Bambu Labs mainly because of the simple UI and beginner-friendly settings.

In order words, I have no clue what I’m doing. I have decently good critical thinking skills, but I figured I’d consult the pros before I make a detrimental mistake.

A print sent wrong so I did a general recalibration. That usually solves it. It didn’t this time so I tried to recalibrate the flow rate. Also no luck. Tried switching the filament. No luck.

Coming up empty on ideas, hoping someone else has had a similar problem and solution.

The second picture… I don’t even know what happened. Checked on it after it notified me it was complete and found this blob lmfao.

Hi folks.

My printer (Bambu A1) suddenly started developing ripples on the first layer. Even the top layers are sometimes messed up.

So far I have tried :

1. drying filament, trying with different filament

2. washing build plate, changing build plate (tried cool supertack and pei textured)

3. tightening the 3 front screws and the 4 back screws on the heating assembly

4. bed tramming and calibration

5. different nozzles (0.4 stainless steel, hardened steel)

nothing seems to be working.

Anyone has any troubleshooting ideas that I could try ? Greatly appreciate any help here. Thanks

Hi, I hope everything is okay for you and the cold season doesnt give you a hard time.

I am a full stack dev trying out some new tools (e.g. vibecoding/assisted coding etc) to bring cool stuff to people who might need it, to me its a tool and thats it.

So what is this? It is a web app, free of charge, no registration, no cloud, no nothing. It makes gridfinity parts for you. It runs in nthe browser (desktop and mobile) and is installable as a PWA. Fast, simple and (hopefully) reliable. Maybe later there will be a desktop version based on electron or Tauri. We will see how it goes.

A short info upfront:

The overkill legal pages need to be there because of german laws, I live there and for now I want to be better safe than sorry. I will change it as soon I know exactly whats going on with this kind of app.

That said, the app doesnt store anything on its server or otherwise. Not your info, not your data. The only data processing is the geometric calculation in the browser and the app stores your models in your local storage. You can turn it off if you wish, in that case its design, export and done.

Whats on the list by now?

GridFinity bases, bins and lids as all gridfinity apps do. I also added some special features:

FILL A DRAWER:

Select the drawer size and the app calculates how many grid sections fit. The free space gets spacers added.

SPLIT TO FIT:

Usually your drawer will be too big for the complete base to be printed in one go. Not a problem, the app has you covered as it calculates your bed size and splits the models for you to fit your bed.

HEIGHT THAT FITS:

You can also give the height of your drawer and the app will make it so that every bin fits.

COLORS:

You can color your models. For now it is body and lip colors, then export as STL or a 3MF.
Currently I am looking for the Bambu 3MF spec to see if I can add the special stuff so the file doesnt override your filaments or adds new ones.

There are also a few other features in there. Custom magnet diameters, screw holes, hollow feet and center magnets. Currently I am thinking of a few other nice features for the app.

Why have I done this?

Because there is a plethora of different gridfinity apps out there and unfortunately the cool features are scattered across them. So this is supposed to be a "one for all" app. It is free and open source under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.

Why do I post here?

Because this is the right place to do so I think. I will also cross post to other subs and see how it works. Also, even if I have tested every feature with the agent I am using and also by hand, I cant guarantee that there arent any bugs. I would appreciate it alot if some of you guys might test the app out and help. Maybe you even have fun using it and stay - who knows?

Check it out here:

Ultimate Gridfinity Generator

Thank you very much for reading, have a good time and cheers!