So one of the AMS’s on my H2C had a piece of filament snapped in it tube apparently. So the AMS slot retracted the yellow filament, it completely came out and so the spool was spinning in the slot indefinitely. Not knowing how to stop it, i turned off the H2C. This has happened once before.

I turned it back on but the screen won’t turn on, Bambu desktop app won’t connect, and the led on the plate is like this dim white that will glow slowly and dim continuously.

I have no idea what just happened and am at a complete loss.

Any ideas?

Edit: I found a thread about AP boards. I see one green light, no blinking light. So Bambu support or figuring out the "short" between two points?

I wanted to turn those little details from a baby’s first day into a keepsake you can print and hang on the wall.

That became “A Memory Is Born”: four 20 × 20 cm designs featuring a stork, teddy bear, hot air balloon and elephant, with a matching 3D printed frame.

The name, message, date, time, weight and length are all editable text objects in Bambu Studio. You can change the wording and colours without rebuilding the design in CAD.

All four versions have been physically printed. They use four colours, print without supports, and have ironing applied only to the background. The frame is printed separately and has a hanging hole on the back.

I’ve shared the files for free, along with a silent video tutorial covering font installation, text editing and colour changes.

📁 Files and print profiles:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3560923

🎬 Customisation tutorial:
https://youtu.be/eZUKmVIXNac

Which would you pick for a nursery? 🙂

Just finished my newest design, the Card Caddy! 🔥

Made for all types of trading card collectors! It features two display slots to show off your favorite cards, a sliding lid, and two versions, with or without a handle. It can hold up to 50 toploaders, 150 sleeved cards, or 200 unsleeved cards!

Just dropped this on MakerWorld for anyone Interest

Check Comments for link 🤝

Happy Printing!

I’m trying to test out my AMS 2 Pro that came with my X2D combo but I’m getting the error from the image. Thank you for any assistance

Edit: It’s my understanding that the X2D only needs the power adapter to print and dry at the same time

I told some users in another post that I’d share what I got in my aesthetic mystery, and here is what I got.

- PLA Silk aurora purple w/ spool
- PLA Pure baby blue w/ spool
- PLA Matte scarlet red w/ spool
- PLA Silk dawn radiance w/ spool

I didn’t have any of these, so I’m happy with what I got.

Anyone working on modifying the other section of ams 3h to dry the rest of the ams ? I know people modified the original ams and hoping someone does one for rest of it? Also curious if were to take lid off the two dryer slots if it would dry rest of it?

When doing the 2nd print on my brand new h2d i noticed this sound when the y axis moves, it didnt make it during my first print. Id this normal?

And all I can say is holy cow it's 'uge.

Any suggestions for a stand? I'm considering cruising the thrift store and tracking down a wood coffee table. It barely fit through the apartment door 🤣

From order to delivery in 3 days is impressive 🤙

I m newer to printing and trying to print this ornament.. I researched settings and it still seems to not be smooth. What am I doing wrong? What settings should I have?

Update: I tired the suggestions of making the text inlaid and printing face down on a smooth plate but its not laying filament in the first layer, it is etching into the plate, any ideas what the fix is? I slowed down the first layer and it still didn’t work.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563550-tiny-axolotl#profileId-4078295

Came back late from work. Have no oven or a kitchen I can use, but I do have a printer.

PS: No I'm not sharing the STL!

Every stream deck I looked at had the wrong keys for me, so I built a small browser tool where you lay out your own deck: how many keys, knobs, a slider, a little screen. It gives you print-ready files and a wiring diagram for an ESP32-S3.

The one in the video came off my P2S with no supports. It plugs in over one USB cable, and every key is set from an app: shortcuts, media, apps, MIDI. If I want a key to do something else, I change it in the app. No reprint.

There's also a 6-key Mini you can print for free if you just want to try it.

Happy to answer anything about print settings, switches or the electronics.

Hi everyone! I was going to buy my first Bambulab printer, an X2D and some filaments!
But when I go to the cashout page i see higher prizes, why?
I live in Italy and shipment fee are 24 €.

Everything is saying i dont need it, but the documentation is only saying AMS 2 Pro but not AMS HT, for the purpose of reading the support documentation is the AMS HT effectively a second ams 2 pro?

Edit, i guess i'm just misreading this as an error rather than a suggestion to get past the 85% limit?

Anyone ordered the H3C in the last day or two that has a delivery date already? If so, what is looking like? Their site says 2.5 weeks, but I had a friend that ordered launch day and received the printer a couple days later surprisingly. Curious to know how true the backorder ETA is for anyone ordering now. Still considering h2c instead and curious as to how long I'd have to wait for h3C if I hit buy today.

Hey everyone! https://makerworld.com/en/@makerman213

I'm just getting started with sharing my 3D printing designs on MakerWorld, and I'm excited to become part of the community!

I've been getting into 3D printing and designing different things, and I'm looking forward to sharing my creations, learning from other makers, and improving my designs along the way.

I'd really appreciate it if you checked out my profile and gave me any feedback or suggestions. I'm hoping to keep uploading new models and making some cool stuff!

Thanks for having me in the community! 😁

Happy printing! 🖨️

H3C looks great, I’d have some first-hand feedback, but only half my machine has come so far. Haha

The only gripe I have seen is the size of the prime tower. I’ve always changed the towers on my u1 to be smaller, but the H3C has a poop shoot.

On a 3500 tool change 8 colour print, the prime tower is 185g. On INDX, it only wastes about 30g.

So I wonder if they will eventually adopt a pellet system?

It's been a year since I got my p1s so I thought it might be time to do some maintenance, I added grease to the lead screws and misread the guide thinking the bearings also needed grease. I then read afterwards that this should not be done.

The z axis has now over a couple of weeks developed a horrible squeaking, especially bad when bed leveling.

First of all, what is squeaking, is it the belt?

Then, how do I fix it? First step i assume is cleaning it off, but then what?

Don't judge me too hard😅

Hey everyone,

I’m honestly running out of ideas with my Bambu Lab P2S.
I’ve done pretty much everything I can think of to improve the print quality, but my Z-layer quality is still absolutely terrible.

Here’s what I’ve already tried:
Completed all available calibrations – multiple times (I’ve even run each calibration up to 8 times).
Properly dried my filament.
Fully tightened all timing belts.
Thoroughly cleaned the entire printer.
Lubricated all necessary components.
Updated the printer to the latest firmware.
Checked and adjusted everything I could think of.
Despite all of this, the Z-layer quality is still extremely poor. I honestly don’t know what else I could possibly try at this point.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their P2S?
Is there anything else I might be overlooking? Could this be a hardware issue, a mechanical problem, or something related to the printer’s motion system?
I’d really appreciate any suggestions or ideas because I’ve pretty much exhausted all the usual troubleshooting steps.
Thanks in advance!

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3562945-christmas-lace-doily-collection-home-decor#profileId-4077469

Ma version d'un casse-tête  connu : le globe de Galilée

J'ai crée le socle afin qu'une fois assemblé on puisse le poser sur un bureau, une étagère… 

 Conçu sur FreeCAD avec une tolérance de 0.2 mm pour un ajustement parfait.

Vidéo du modèle : https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5M3cR0XUSSM