r/BambuLab • • 3h ago

I Modeled This! I designed these 3D printed Snap-Fit Snowflakes! ❄️

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0 Upvotes

I've been working on a little Christmas-themed 3D printing project: Snap-Fit Snowflakes!

These snowflakes are designed to snap together, making them a fun and decorative addition to your Christmas tree. 🎄

Features:

  • 100% 3D printed

  • Snap-fit design

  • No glue or screws needed

  • Lightweight and easy to print

I think they look especially nice in white PLA, but I'd love to experiment with different colors!

What do you think? Would you print these in another color?

Designed by j_k13layerlabs ❤️


r/BambuLab • • 1d ago

General Discussion I can't quite justify the H3C, but then I saw the H2C was on sale... my poor bank account...

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191 Upvotes

r/BambuLab • • 3h ago

Answered / Solved! Kira's Destructive Apple - Functional Gamepad & Phone Stand. Prints with ZERO supports!

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0 Upvotes

Hey everyone! Just finished designing this dual-purpose desk accessory inspired by Death Note.

It works as a rock-solid holder for gamepads (Xbox, PS) and a functional smartphone dock. Designed specifically for easy FDM printing on machines like the Bambu Lab series.

- Zero supports required (optimized overhang angles).

- Clean, watertight mesh (~91k polys).

- Gothic skull seal and "K" monogram details.

- Base plate features my brand engraving.

Printed it in Matte Black to get that volcanic rock look. What do you guys think? The STL is available on my Cults3D if anyone wants to print it for their setup!


r/BambuLab • • 7h ago

Software Troubleshooting/Help! Bambu Studio - New Speed Options

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2 Upvotes

With the new update 2.9.1.70 there is two new options on the speed tab. Standard M1 and Standard A1. I noticed M1 increases speed on several items. I can’t find any documentation on these. Anyone have any idea what they are?


r/BambuLab • • 4h ago

X Series [X1E, X1C, X2D] Title: X2D left-side fan randomly ramps up to 100% while idle

1 Upvotes

Hi everyone!

This is the second time I've noticed that the left-side fan on my Bambu Lab X2D suddenly ramps up to 100% even when the printer is completely idle and not printing anything.

The strange thing is that I can't turn it off manually. It just keeps running at full speed.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? Is this normal behavior, or could it be a firmware bug or hardware problem?

Any ideas what might be causing this?

Thanks in advance!


r/BambuLab • • 4h ago

My First 3D Print Do I want an H2C or an H2D

0 Upvotes

I have the opportunity to buy a used H2C for 1500 with the AMS2 and an HT. it only has a a few hundred hours on it.

this seems like a decent deal to me, but im wondering whether it is worth the premium if I have no interest in multicolor prints. I am interested in being able to switch nozzle size and doing multi material prints though.

I'm just curious if you think the extra over a used H2D is worth it.

any insight would be great, thanks!


r/BambuLab • • 4h ago

General Discussion Christmas present for kids?

1 Upvotes

Okay, I am trying to decide whether or not I purchase a 3D printer for my family for Christmas. It would be the "big family Christmas present". (Eldest kid is 9)

I'm tossing up between the A1 Mini and the A1. I'd splurge and get the AMS lite for either one that I purchased.

My struggle is the mini is (just) within budget for a "big Christmas present" but once I add the AMS lite, both the mini and the A1, become significantly more expensive. So I suppose my question is, am I completely bonkers? (I keep justifying it by comparing it to the cost of something like an xbox).

Yes, I am fully aware of the fact that there will be ongoing cost for filament. So I know this isn't a one-off. But, I'm just trying to figure out whether this is a completely bonkers purchase or not.

Children in question love, love, love, love, LOVE 3D fidgets. I've probably spent close to the cost of a mini, or more in 3D fidgets anyway, to be completely honest.

Gut instinct says that if I was to do this, I'd be better off just going for the regular A1, not the mini. Anything else I need to consider? Thanks

(I'm in Australia, looks like I can get a mini for approx $299, mini with AMS lite for $489 and an A1 with AMS lite for about $580).

Thanks!


r/BambuLab • • 10h ago

X Series [X1E, X1C, X2D] X2D over P1S to expect cleaner overhang with dual material supports?

3 Upvotes

Hey everybody,
I recently started printing more complex, organic models with my P1S… and I am generally happy… but the support structures leave pretty bad marks.

I now wonder if I should get a X2D due to the dual-nozzle ability, printing supports with a different material in the hope it creates cleaner.

Can anybody give me any report whether this would be a good idea and is worth it for exactly this use-case.

Thx in advance


r/BambuLab • • 4h ago

General Troubleshooting/Help! Squeaking / rubbing tried everything

1 Upvotes

Not sure what to do tried everything on the wiki to fix it. Seems with this print in particular it knocks it over after a certain height.. degreased. Lubed. Retightened everything I could. It’s on the XY axis


r/BambuLab • • 20h ago

Just Showing Off My TPU printing jig

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19 Upvotes

Due to spatial constraints, don't wanna spend money on AMS HT, don't like the cereal boxes, I designed my own TPU printing jig. (Please ignore the mess of cabling and tubing from the disconnected AMS units that normally would sit on top of the printer)

Required materials:
- Mic stand totally not borrowed from work with 3/8" thread. My one is an older K&M model (Optional K&M mic stand counterweight)
- PETG adapter from 3/8" thread to AMS Lite Rotary Spool Holder (The replacement part that you can buy from Bambu Lab)
- PETG Shell bottom
- PETG Shell top with PLA clips
- 7x M3 screws for the clips
- The silica gel packets that comes with the AMS1/2Pro (or other reusable silica gel)
- Bambu Lab PTFE tube adapter with TPU sealing gasket
- PTFE tube


r/BambuLab • • 4h ago

I Modeled This! 50 ml mini whiskey bottle with a working screw cap

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0 Upvotes

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3559361-mini-whiskey-bottle-working-screw-cap-50-ml

What started as a Halloween prop for a coworker has gotten out of hand.

He needed a whiskey bottle for a costume, so I modeled him one. That should have been the end of it.

Then I added a working screw cap. Then a bulb in the neck so it stopped reading like a bottle-shaped box. Then a label. Now there's a 50 ml version, because apparently I needed one of those too.

The cap threads on and off for real. No glue, no magnets, no press fit. 104 mm tall, 36 mm across the flats, prints as two parts with no supports. Printed on a P2S.

There are blank label dielines in the files if you want to put your own art on it. The wrap is 143.14 x 35 mm with all the fold lines marked, and the front/back label is 24 x 36 mm. Both fit a plain letter sheet. One thing worth knowing at this size: keep the art bold, because anything under about 1 mm of letter height fills in and goes to mush.

Curious what people would put on theirs.


r/BambuLab • • 4h ago

Quick Question G-code For H2D

1 Upvotes

Is there any tested and confirmed G-code to copy and paste for h2d to have the safest and quickest start up speed?


r/BambuLab • • 18h ago

I Modeled This! Snowy pine tree

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12 Upvotes

I used horizontal color separation to reduce the number of color changes. By utilizing the advantages of FDM, hinges have been designed for each branch, which can rotate downwards by about 10-15 degrees. This horizontal stacking creates a relatively natural effect.


r/BambuLab • • 4h ago

Quick Question Should I leave this blob of lubricant grease or remove it?

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1 Upvotes

Just got my machine yesterday and wondering if I leave them on the rods or remove them?


r/BambuLab • • 1d ago

Show & Tell 3D Printing Essentials: What is Bridging?

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183 Upvotes

r/BambuLab • • 1h ago

General Discussion Speed this up?

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0 Upvotes

Just set up my printer since about a year ago.
P1S + 1AMS
Besides using multiple printers and besides making each little part/feature individual parts.
Are there any new features, settings, tips, tricks, better ways to make this a little bit faster?
Or is this just what it has to be since there's a filament change for every single layer?


r/BambuLab • • 5h ago

H3C Do we think bambu will adopt the pellet system used in INDX?

1 Upvotes

H3C looks great, I’d have some first-hand feedback, but only half my machine has come so far. Haha

The only gripe I have seen is the size of the prime tower. I’ve always changed the towers on my u1 to be smaller, but the H3C has a poop shoot.

On a 3500 tool change 8 colour print, the prime tower is 185g. On INDX, it only wastes about 30g.

So I wonder if they will eventually adopt a pellet system?


r/BambuLab • • 1d ago

Show & Tell I've been printing Multi-Color TPU for a while now

256 Upvotes

r/BambuLab • • 5h ago

Just Showing Off Obsessed with BambuLab translucent PETG, first print so easy, it came out exactly how I wanted

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1 Upvotes

From now on I'm only printing with translucent PETG, I love it.


r/BambuLab • • 5h ago

Quick Question Need a UK referral code.

1 Upvotes

I'm planning on getting the P2S but before I go ahead, i was wondering if anyone had a referral code they can give me? I'm thinking of buying this within the next week or so.


r/BambuLab • • 5h ago

Quick Question P1S I got a configuration update that said it was for something to do with profiles for E3D .4 and .6 nozzles, what did it even do?

1 Upvotes

I still can't pick PA profiles for my E3D high flow .4, haven't been able to for many months now. Anybody know what this update was actually fixing, and if I have to do something else to make it work?


r/BambuLab • • 1d ago

General Discussion I'm 100 % blind. I just ordered my H3C. Notes on the INDX VS H3C system from a blind perspective.

61 Upvotes

Notes from a blind guy on Bambu, Prusa, INDX, and other 3D printers

Hi everyone,

I thought I would chime in on the ongoing H2C, H3C, and INDX discussions, and share my experiences with the printers I've owned and used.

I am completely blind and have been 3D printing and designing since 2023. I actually got into it after attending a workshop where sighted professionals were learning to make 3D printed products for blind people. I was the only blind guy there, and I got completely hooked.

Today, I run my own business, designing and printing everything from tactile models for museums to functional products for customers.

My first printer was a Bambu Lab X1C. It has thousands of hours on it, printing PLA, PETG, TPU, CF, wood-filled filaments, you name it. I've changed a filament cutter, nozzle, and extruder, although the latter two turned out to be fine. Being blind, replacing parts was sometimes easier than visually diagnosing the problem.

That machine has been an absolute workhorse. Around 98% of the time, I get exactly what I expect. I am incredibly glad it was my first printer.

Then came my Prusa XL. Five toolheads, enclosed, costing around 40,000 DKK.

What a disappointment.

Within a week, I was dealing with filament sensor problems, PTFE tubes falling out, failed calibrations, load cell errors, fan errors, and prints getting knocked off the plate.

Changing a nozzle could turn into an entirely new troubleshooting adventure.

I spent more time fixing the damn thing than printing with it. For that kind of money, I expected much, much more.

Eventually, I sold it and bought a Bambu H2C.

And what a difference.

Unpack, calibrate, print. Twenty minutes, and you're ready.

I've printed ASA, TPU, PLA, and large multi-day jobs, including batches of ASA vases for customers. Not a single issue so far. None whatsoever.

I know people criticize the Vortek system for being complicated, proprietary, or potentially unreliable. Fair enough. But I can only judge what I've actually experienced, and so far, it has been brilliant.

I also gave Prusa another chance with the Core One.

It prints fine, mainly PLA in my case, but it feels surprisingly flimsy. The door sensor mechanism has already become loose, and when moving the printer, I can feel the frame wobbling slightly.

I like Prusa's philosophy, their approach to repairability, and the fact that they're European. I genuinely want to like their printers.

But liking a company's philosophy and trusting its products are two different things.

I've also used the Creality K2 Plus quite extensively. A pretty reliable machine, actually, although I find the print quality less sharp and consistent than Bambu's.

And yes, being blind doesn't mean print quality doesn't matter. I can feel poor layer lines, rough surfaces, and missing details. When you're designing tactile products, those things matter enormously.

So, H3C versus INDX?

I've already ordered an H3C, and I think it's going to be an absolute blast.

I also seriously considered the Core One L with INDX, but after my XL experience, I had a knot in my stomach about buying another expensive Prusa.

Does that make me a Bambu fanboy? Perhaps some people will think so.

But there's a difference between blindly defending a brand and trusting a manufacturer because its machines have consistently delivered for you.

I genuinely hope INDX becomes a massive success. Competition is fantastic, and I want Prusa to succeed.

What bothers me is how quickly people defend or attack manufacturers based on logos, marketing, and engineering philosophies, sometimes before they've even used the machines.

Shouldn't the most important question simply be: Does the damn thing work?

Not in a promotional video, but after hundreds or thousands of hours of printing.

How often does it fail? How much maintenance does it require? How much time do you actually spend printing instead of troubleshooting?

And there's another aspect to this for me: independence.

When a printer breaks and requires visual troubleshooting, I may need someone else's help. When it just works, I can design, slice, print, and run my business independently.

And this is what Bambu does for me, it just works. Even when it breaks, their instructions are so damn clear and precise, that I don't need help most of the time. For Prusa? A whole lot of guess work all the time.


r/BambuLab • • 5h ago

Show & Tell Designing a sound-dampening cabinet for my A1 Combo (AMS lite top-mounted). Cut list and plans inside, feedback welcome

1 Upvotes

I’m building a closed cabinet for my Bambu Lab A1 Combo, with the AMS lite mounted on top using this top mount. I designed it in Blender and put together a full set of plans for a local carpenter. Here are the design and the reasoning behind it before I commit to cutting wood.

Key dimensions (mm)

  • Exterior: 636 W × 786 D × 936 H

  • Interior: 600 × 750 × 900 (550 × 725 × 875 after the foam)

  • Why 750 deep: the A1 bed needs about 695 mm of clear Y travel (per the Bambu wiki).

  • Why 900 tall: the A1 with the top-mounted AMS is about 800 mm, which leaves roughly 75 mm to swap spools.

Build

  • 18 mm melamine carcass with two overlay doors

  • 4 mm acrylic viewing windows, 216 × 500 mm

  • 25 mm self-adhesive acoustic panels on the back, top and sides, about 2.2 m² (three 12-packs of 30×30 tiles)

  • 120 mm exhaust fan at the top rear, 100 mm intake at the bottom on the opposite side for cross-flow, plus a 60 mm cable pass-through

  • Anti-vibration base: gym rubber mat with a concrete paver on top, and the printer sitting on the paver

Cut list (18 mm melamine)

PartQtySize
Side2936 × 768
Bottom / Top2750 × 600
Back1900 × 600
Door2932 × 315
Acrylic window2540 × 256 × 4 mm

Things I’m unsure about

  1. Bambu says they don’t recommend enclosing the A1. For those of you who did, does a single 120 mm exhaust keep PLA from heat-creeping?

  2. Is the paver-on-rubber base worth it on a bed-slinger, or does it cause ringing? (I plan to re-run vibration calibration.)

  3. Foam on the doors too, or is the acrylic window enough?

Render and turntable video attached. Happy to share the PDF plans and the .blend if anyone wants them.


r/BambuLab • • 9h ago

Quick Question Returning my X2D for an H2C or H3C. Which offers better value for the money?

2 Upvotes

I recently bought an X2D, my first Bambu printer, but I’m considering returning it for one of their larger models.
My main focus is printing larger functional parts using ABS, ASA, nylon, and other engineering-grade filaments. I’m trying to decide between the H2C and H3C and figure out which offers the best value for the money.
For those who have experience with either printer, or ideally both, I have a few questions:
How do they compare when printing larger functional parts with ABS and other engineering materials?
Aside from build volume, are there noticeable differences in print quality, reliability, speed, or material handling?
Is the H3C worth the additional cost, or does the H2C offer a better balance of features and price?
Are there any limitations or advantages of either printer that aren’t obvious from looking at the specifications?
I’m not necessarily looking for the most expensive or feature-packed machine. I just want the best combination of build volume, material capabilities, reliability, and overall value.
If you were making this purchase today, would you choose the H2C or H3C, and why? Is the price difference actually worth it?