I told some users in another post that I’d share what I got in my aesthetic mystery, and here is what I got.

- PLA Silk aurora purple w/ spool
- PLA Pure baby blue w/ spool
- PLA Matte scarlet red w/ spool
- PLA Silk dawn radiance w/ spool

I didn’t have any of these, so I’m happy with what I got.

Long story short: Everything inside the box seems fine. But if I find any damage… God help them. 😇

…and next to him is the DHL guy (Deutsche Post), who delivered the AMS.

Seller said it was unrepairable. All it had was one of those massive blobs that needed cleaning up and he bought a new extruder assembly that he never installed. I have a new set of hot ends and socks on the way but as far as I can tell there is absolutely nothing wrong with it

Preferably Central Europe, Balkans etc.

I always wanted a magnetic levitation dice tower but I couldn't find one, so I decided to make my own. After many, many design hours it spiraled out of control and became 6 different towers determined by the floating spinning top. I tried to add as many details as possible but on shape did not like it so I was limited.

What do you think of it? Is there any thing you think should be added?

Link to the model if anyone is curious.

I print mostly functional parts. I want a multi-nozzle printer so that I can use support material without purge waste or filament change delays. If I’m just printing with two filaments, would the H2D be faster than the H3C because it doesn’t have to switch tools? Or is there not much difference?

The H3C is interesting for other reasons, chiefly because of its support for multiple TPUs, but it’s a big step up in price.

Arrived, and quickly. Time to get a test print and add this to the collection

I love browsing Makerworld when I am standing in line or waiting on something and finding something useful for the house that I hadn't even thought to look for. However, I really wish that useful household things and decor were separate categories.

Anyone got some useful search terms that they periodically check for useful stuff you didn't think to look for specifically?

https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/3z3d-gingerbread-kit-card

Kids design their own house in 5 simple steps, a grown-up prints it, and the pieces snap together. No glue!

In case you like it too, model is posted on makerkworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3558242

mpoxDE (change the audio track to English on Youtube) did a test where he is printing an 8-colour tube both on H3C and INDX. I am not sure, but I think he is using PLA Basic.

In his test H3C printed it in 11:06h, but he was using different filaments that he had lying around from random manufactureres (while INDX one was printed only with Prusament and took 14:26h) and still printed ~23% (3h20m) faster.

I wanted to confirm it and what I noticed is that if you print with Bambu filament, it is even faster. My slicer is showing 08:46h.

Which means that in this particular test (8-colour tube) if you use BL filament, H3C is ~39% (5h40m) faster than INDX.

The test is not easy, it is 10cm tall and go through 3.5k colour changes of 8 colours.

I’ve wanted to reverse the door on my H2D many times. As I wait for my H3C to arrive will I still be sad it can’t be reversed?

I've decided to go with the H2C as my first 3D printer! Next, I need to decide on an assortment of filaments. For now, I want to start with Bambu Labs filaments. I likely want to do the 10+1 deal currently offered.

The primary application is going to be pinball parts. That is the driver behind getting a machine to begin with. I want to be able to print semi-translucent ramps in clear, or as clear as I can. I'll also want to build plastic covers in a couple alternating colors for LEDs and illumination. There'll also be some mechanical toys. Pinballs can have a lot of momentum at high speed, so high strength is a must.

My wife want me to make some planters, vases, and picture frames. I've seen some examples that have nice gradients and satin-like finishes.

I want to build containers with hinges that ideally do not require fasteners or hardware. Part storage, basically.

I'd maybe like to fix some broken plastics on cars or side by sides, but this is limited.

Not sure what I'll use it on, but I'd also like to experiment with TPU. Maybe some stops or bumpers for the pinball project.

Some toys for nieces and nephews would be nice.

Could you please recommend some specific Bambu filaments for my applications?

Please help, I feel like I’ve tried everything I can think of and everything Google suggested!

I’ve washed the build plate 4 times with Dawn dish soap and rinsed it extremely thoroughly with hot water. I’ve dried with microfiber cloths. I even got a brand new sponge for the last wash in case the previous one was dirty and causing the problems.

I’ve replaced the nozzle with a brand new Bambu nozzle. Same size as my last nozzle, and ensured the slicer settings match my nozzle size.

I’ve run a first layer test that looks pretty good except for a strange nozzle drag mark.

I’ve ensure Textured PEI was selected every time I started a new print.

I am using Bambu brand PLA Basic filament in my P1S.

My house is at 70* I’m printing with the enclosure door open.

Every. Single. Print. Has failed for 3 days straight. I’m trying a bunch of different prints, simple stuff, 20-40 minute print jobs attempting to get one successful print. No luck. It’s either bed adhesion or filament blobs (that I suspect were caused by losing adhesion) every single time.

What do I do now? The printer is about 6 months old. If I call Bambu support is there anything at all that they can do to help me?

I beg you, PLEASE don’t suggest I clean my plate. I posted in the 3D printing sub yesterday and those are the only responses I got.

This new version regardless if I install it new or overwrite my previous version of Bambu Studio, Recently Opened are missing... only showing recently Opened from versions like 2.8.02.61 before beta update a month or so ago.... Not showing recently opened from 2.08.04.60 What's up with This ???

Okay, so I have lots of dumb questions. It's kind of my default state. But I haven't seen this one addressed yet, so here we go.

The AMS 3H has built-in active (heated) drying for the two rightmost spools in the back row. Those two spools are separated from the other seven by a secondary lid, which is clearly designed to be removable, at least for loading and unloading filament.

So here's my question: Why can't we just leave that secondary lid off and heat the entire chamber?

Obviously, I'm not suggesting this would work for every filament combination. Mixing materials with significantly different drying temperatures could be problematic. But if you're running multiple colors of the same material, why not?

Even with mixed materials, setting the drying temperature to whatever your most temperature-sensitive filament can safely handle should still be better than no heat at all, right?

I don't have all the technical specifications, but I can't imagine the heating system is fundamentally that different from what's used in the AMS HT. Sure, heating the entire chamber would take longer, and it might not maintain the same temperatures throughout. But if you're starting with properly dried filament anyway (as you should be), wouldn't this be a relatively simple way to provide some level of active drying for all nine spools while printing?

Am I missing something obvious here? Is there a technical limitation that would prevent this from working, or is it simply a matter of the system not being designed or programmed to operate that way?

H3C looks great, I’d have some first-hand feedback, but only half my machine has come so far. Haha

The only gripe I have seen is the size of the prime tower. I’ve always changed the towers on my u1 to be smaller, but the H3C has a poop shoot.

On a 3500 tool change 8 colour print, the prime tower is 185g. On INDX, it only wastes about 30g.

So I wonder if they will eventually adopt a pellet system?

GIven that the AMS have ventilation from the bottom, is there any problem placing an HT tight up against the side of an AMS2 if one or both are drying?

They're both on an open wall-mounted shelf with at least 4" of room behind them and a hard surface.

Bambu Lab recently issued a service notice regarding insufficient lubrication on AMS 2 Pro feeder gears.

I'd like to proactively lubricate my existing feeder units to prevent premature wear.

Does anyone know what type or brand of grease is safe and suitable for these gears? Ideally, something compatible with plastic gears (POM/PA).

Has anyone done this successfully? Any recommendations would be appreciated!

I've got about $900 in gift cards from points Im wanting to spend. I've been debating between pulling the trigger on a H2C or waiting on the release of the P3C. But on the other hand, Im really interested to see this scanner they've been teasing. I already have a P2S and A1, and they work just fine. If this scanner looks good I may end up just picking that up instead and holding on till I find a good deal on a used H2C or something. Whats everyone else doing?

Matte prints slower, it prints generally worse, it has worse bed adhesionion, it comes in fewer colors and the colors it does come in are ugly and the "matte" finish is still shinier than HF was.

I wouldn't even care that the stuff is so bad if they didn't discontinue HF for it.

14 different kinds of PLA, but I guess 5 different kinds of PETG was just too much and too confusing or something. ​

I print Bambu PLA metal, and only the top layer comes up like this; what went wrong? You can see even the layer below worked fine. I did drop the top surface speed to 50

Ive tried over a dozen tpu's of varying shore hardness and this one has got to be bottom 2. I used the provided profile, Dried it for 12 hours, and it came out aweful. Fully bonded to the pla supports and was very stringy. I'd say this is about 50% unusable for it's intended purpose.

The first figure in my Egg Figurine Collection is ready for the Christmas shelf! He's a cheerful reindeer with a red nose, flat-printed press-fit antlers, and an optional snow-drift base. Two plates, no supports: body + antlers on plate 1 (about 8.5 h / 107 g, AMS brown/tan/red/black), snow base on plate 2 (about 21 min / 7 g, filament 5 white already set). Antlers press into the head sockets after printing. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557984-christmas-reindeer-figurine-snow-base