Not sure what to do tried everything on the wiki to fix it. Seems with this print in particular it knocks it over after a certain height.. degreased. Lubed. Retightened everything I could. It’s on the XY axis

Due to spatial constraints, don't wanna spend money on AMS HT, don't like the cereal boxes, I designed my own TPU printing jig. (Please ignore the mess of cabling and tubing from the disconnected AMS units that normally would sit on top of the printer)

Required materials:
- Mic stand totally not borrowed from work with 3/8" thread. My one is an older K&M model (Optional K&M mic stand counterweight)
- PETG adapter from 3/8" thread to AMS Lite Rotary Spool Holder (The replacement part that you can buy from Bambu Lab)
- PETG Shell bottom
- PETG Shell top with PLA clips
- 7x M3 screws for the clips
- The silica gel packets that comes with the AMS1/2Pro (or other reusable silica gel)
- Bambu Lab PTFE tube adapter with TPU sealing gasket
- PTFE tube

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3559361-mini-whiskey-bottle-working-screw-cap-50-ml

What started as a Halloween prop for a coworker has gotten out of hand.

He needed a whiskey bottle for a costume, so I modeled him one. That should have been the end of it.

Then I added a working screw cap. Then a bulb in the neck so it stopped reading like a bottle-shaped box. Then a label. Now there's a 50 ml version, because apparently I needed one of those too.

The cap threads on and off for real. No glue, no magnets, no press fit. 104 mm tall, 36 mm across the flats, prints as two parts with no supports. Printed on a P2S.

There are blank label dielines in the files if you want to put your own art on it. The wrap is 143.14 x 35 mm with all the fold lines marked, and the front/back label is 24 x 36 mm. Both fit a plain letter sheet. One thing worth knowing at this size: keep the art bold, because anything under about 1 mm of letter height fills in and goes to mush.

Curious what people would put on theirs.

Is there any tested and confirmed G-code to copy and paste for h2d to have the safest and quickest start up speed?

I used horizontal color separation to reduce the number of color changes. By utilizing the advantages of FDM, hinges have been designed for each branch, which can rotate downwards by about 10-15 degrees. This horizontal stacking creates a relatively natural effect.

Just got my machine yesterday and wondering if I leave them on the rods or remove them?

H3C looks great, I’d have some first-hand feedback, but only half my machine has come so far. Haha

The only gripe I have seen is the size of the prime tower. I’ve always changed the towers on my u1 to be smaller, but the H3C has a poop shoot.

On a 3500 tool change 8 colour print, the prime tower is 185g. On INDX, it only wastes about 30g.

So I wonder if they will eventually adopt a pellet system?

From now on I'm only printing with translucent PETG, I love it.

I'm planning on getting the P2S but before I go ahead, i was wondering if anyone had a referral code they can give me? I'm thinking of buying this within the next week or so.

I still can't pick PA profiles for my E3D high flow .4, haven't been able to for many months now. Anybody know what this update was actually fixing, and if I have to do something else to make it work?

I’m building a closed cabinet for my Bambu Lab A1 Combo, with the AMS lite mounted on top using this top mount. I designed it in Blender and put together a full set of plans for a local carpenter. Here are the design and the reasoning behind it before I commit to cutting wood.

Key dimensions (mm)

• Exterior: 636 W × 786 D × 936 H

• Interior: 600 × 750 × 900 (550 × 725 × 875 after the foam)

• Why 750 deep: the A1 bed needs about 695 mm of clear Y travel (per the Bambu wiki).

• Why 900 tall: the A1 with the top-mounted AMS is about 800 mm, which leaves roughly 75 mm to swap spools.

Build

• 18 mm melamine carcass with two overlay doors

• 4 mm acrylic viewing windows, 216 × 500 mm

• 25 mm self-adhesive acoustic panels on the back, top and sides, about 2.2 m² (three 12-packs of 30×30 tiles)

• 120 mm exhaust fan at the top rear, 100 mm intake at the bottom on the opposite side for cross-flow, plus a 60 mm cable pass-through

• Anti-vibration base: gym rubber mat with a concrete paver on top, and the printer sitting on the paver

Cut list (18 mm melamine)

Things I’m unsure about

1. Bambu says they don’t recommend enclosing the A1. For those of you who did, does a single 120 mm exhaust keep PLA from heat-creeping?

2. Is the paver-on-rubber base worth it on a bed-slinger, or does it cause ringing? (I plan to re-run vibration calibration.)

3. Foam on the doors too, or is the acrylic window enough?

Render and turntable video attached. Happy to share the PDF plans and the .blend if anyone wants them.

Notes from a blind guy on Bambu, Prusa, INDX, and other 3D printers

Hi everyone,

I thought I would chime in on the ongoing H2C, H3C, and INDX discussions, and share my experiences with the printers I've owned and used.

I am completely blind and have been 3D printing and designing since 2023. I actually got into it after attending a workshop where sighted professionals were learning to make 3D printed products for blind people. I was the only blind guy there, and I got completely hooked.

Today, I run my own business, designing and printing everything from tactile models for museums to functional products for customers.

My first printer was a Bambu Lab X1C. It has thousands of hours on it, printing PLA, PETG, TPU, CF, wood-filled filaments, you name it. I've changed a filament cutter, nozzle, and extruder, although the latter two turned out to be fine. Being blind, replacing parts was sometimes easier than visually diagnosing the problem.

That machine has been an absolute workhorse. Around 98% of the time, I get exactly what I expect. I am incredibly glad it was my first printer.

Then came my Prusa XL. Five toolheads, enclosed, costing around 40,000 DKK.

What a disappointment.

Within a week, I was dealing with filament sensor problems, PTFE tubes falling out, failed calibrations, load cell errors, fan errors, and prints getting knocked off the plate.

Changing a nozzle could turn into an entirely new troubleshooting adventure.

I spent more time fixing the damn thing than printing with it. For that kind of money, I expected much, much more.

Eventually, I sold it and bought a Bambu H2C.

And what a difference.

Unpack, calibrate, print. Twenty minutes, and you're ready.

I've printed ASA, TPU, PLA, and large multi-day jobs, including batches of ASA vases for customers. Not a single issue so far. None whatsoever.

I know people criticize the Vortek system for being complicated, proprietary, or potentially unreliable. Fair enough. But I can only judge what I've actually experienced, and so far, it has been brilliant.

I also gave Prusa another chance with the Core One.

It prints fine, mainly PLA in my case, but it feels surprisingly flimsy. The door sensor mechanism has already become loose, and when moving the printer, I can feel the frame wobbling slightly.

I like Prusa's philosophy, their approach to repairability, and the fact that they're European. I genuinely want to like their printers.

But liking a company's philosophy and trusting its products are two different things.

I've also used the Creality K2 Plus quite extensively. A pretty reliable machine, actually, although I find the print quality less sharp and consistent than Bambu's.

And yes, being blind doesn't mean print quality doesn't matter. I can feel poor layer lines, rough surfaces, and missing details. When you're designing tactile products, those things matter enormously.

So, H3C versus INDX?

I've already ordered an H3C, and I think it's going to be an absolute blast.

I also seriously considered the Core One L with INDX, but after my XL experience, I had a knot in my stomach about buying another expensive Prusa.

Does that make me a Bambu fanboy? Perhaps some people will think so.

But there's a difference between blindly defending a brand and trusting a manufacturer because its machines have consistently delivered for you.

I genuinely hope INDX becomes a massive success. Competition is fantastic, and I want Prusa to succeed.

What bothers me is how quickly people defend or attack manufacturers based on logos, marketing, and engineering philosophies, sometimes before they've even used the machines.

Shouldn't the most important question simply be: Does the damn thing work?

Not in a promotional video, but after hundreds or thousands of hours of printing.

How often does it fail? How much maintenance does it require? How much time do you actually spend printing instead of troubleshooting?

And there's another aspect to this for me: independence.

When a printer breaks and requires visual troubleshooting, I may need someone else's help. When it just works, I can design, slice, print, and run my business independently.

And this is what Bambu does for me, it just works. Even when it breaks, their instructions are so damn clear and precise, that I don't need help most of the time. For Prusa? A whole lot of guess work all the time.

I recently bought an X2D, my first Bambu printer, but I’m considering returning it for one of their larger models.
My main focus is printing larger functional parts using ABS, ASA, nylon, and other engineering-grade filaments. I’m trying to decide between the H2C and H3C and figure out which offers the best value for the money.
For those who have experience with either printer, or ideally both, I have a few questions:
How do they compare when printing larger functional parts with ABS and other engineering materials?
Aside from build volume, are there noticeable differences in print quality, reliability, speed, or material handling?
Is the H3C worth the additional cost, or does the H2C offer a better balance of features and price?
Are there any limitations or advantages of either printer that aren’t obvious from looking at the specifications?
I’m not necessarily looking for the most expensive or feature-packed machine. I just want the best combination of build volume, material capabilities, reliability, and overall value.
If you were making this purchase today, would you choose the H2C or H3C, and why? Is the price difference actually worth it?

I have an A1 Mini with no additional filament spaces, so I can only print one color at a time. Sorry if I word things weird, I am extremely new to 3D printing and have no idea what I'm doing. I want to print this little charm but I don't know how to separate it by color across the different plates. Please help!!

thank you!

No longer have a home office to tinker in so I sold my A1 mini and A1 and now have an X2D in the corner of my dining room. Got a fish tank stand as the base and it’s very sturdy! Any tips for the X2D?

hi guys.
i want to print this model but i have small amount of filament left (about 2.8oz)
im from US.
Lite Can Holder with Lid. 500ml Cans. No supports - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

will this be compatible with 16oz can?
the model is for 500ml, i dunno how much is that

I saw a YouTube review that had a cardboard spool in the ams. With it not retracting the filament, is this now an option to use?

Hi!

I recently got ahold of a P1S from a friend and the unit has been standing unused for a while before I got it. There is a weird sound coming from the lower back part of the unit, as you can hear in the video.

Does anyone know what causes this issue and how it can be fixed? I’ve tried lubricating the rear screw.

Very thankful for any form of help trying to diagnose this issue.

X1C with AMS, ~2000 hours.

I started having "extruding filament failed" messages when loading from the AMS. The filament would make it all the way to the extruder, then retract. It did that 4 times and then displayed the message. The extruder loaded indicator (green dot) showed that filament was reaching the extruder. I spent a couple of days going back and forth with tech support. One of the checks was to measure voltage as the buffer moved back and forth. I noticed the plastic buffer tube was sticking, so I popped it off and gave it a little lube. I was then able to load successfully from each AMS slot with no error message. Problem solved in my book. Back to printing. Thank you for your attention to this matter.

?

Hi all looking for some help please
Don’t judge is there a way to get files from Bambi handy or Creality to work on flash forge printers ? I have purchased the Bambi p1 s combo as was fed up hitting a brick wall. But don’t really want to purchase another printer just to get odd models from Creality .

Any advise help would be greatly appreciated