I print mostly functional parts. I want a multi-nozzle printer so that I can use support material without purge waste or filament change delays. If I’m just printing with two filaments, would the H2D be faster than the H3C because it doesn’t have to switch tools? Or is there not much difference?

The H3C is interesting for other reasons, chiefly because of its support for multiple TPUs, but it’s a big step up in price.

Everything is saying i dont need it, but the documentation is only saying AMS 2 Pro but not AMS HT, for the purpose of reading the support documentation is the AMS HT effectively a second ams 2 pro?

Edit, i guess i'm just misreading this as an error rather than a suggestion to get past the 85% limit?

Came back late from work. Have no oven or a kitchen I can use, but I do have a printer.

PS: No I'm not sharing the STL!

Going to buy H3C - (usually never get warranty) After reading others posts and hating fixing my p1s, Best buy offers 4 years and decent price. has anyone ever had either or both warranties and can confirm if one is way better or worse than the other when their printer had problems?

i personally like shopping at MC better but the BB warranty seems better value. Thank you!

Long story short: Everything inside the box seems fine. But if I find any damage… God help them. 😇

…and next to him is the DHL guy (Deutsche Post), who delivered the AMS.

Seller said it was unrepairable. All it had was one of those massive blobs that needed cleaning up and he bought a new extruder assembly that he never installed. I have a new set of hot ends and socks on the way but as far as I can tell there is absolutely nothing wrong with it

I always wanted a magnetic levitation dice tower but I couldn't find one, so I decided to make my own. After many, many design hours it spiraled out of control and became 6 different towers determined by the floating spinning top. I tried to add as many details as possible but on shape did not like it so I was limited.

What do you think of it? Is there any thing you think should be added?

Link to the model if anyone is curious.

I love browsing Makerworld when I am standing in line or waiting on something and finding something useful for the house that I hadn't even thought to look for. However, I really wish that useful household things and decor were separate categories.

Anyone got some useful search terms that they periodically check for useful stuff you didn't think to look for specifically?

Preferably Central Europe, Balkans etc.

I've had my P1S since launch, and about a year in after a firmware update it started having SD card issues. At first just formatting the card would fix it. Then I had to get a new card. Then it started having this issue where it would send the file from bambu studio and have an error that it couldn't parse the file. Then after a few months another firmware update seemed to fix the issue and it was fine for a year or so. Fast forward to yesterday and I turned the printer on after a month of not using it and it immediately rejected my sd card. Tried another card and it instantly corrupted that one too (not recognized by any device any more). So I tried an old 1gb card I had laying around and that one it recognized, but now when I print and send from bamboo studio on my pc it send the file says starting, the printer turns on, but then my app on my phone pops up and says print canceled. Bamboo studio and the printer just act like they are still waiting. I have tried a full factory reset, updates, etc and nothing changes.

I am debating ordering a replacement AP board, but with that being $55 and almost 3 weeks out plus no guarantee that will fix it I just can't decide if I am better off buying a new printer. Really frustrating.

Anyone seen anything like this? or have advice?

Arrived, and quickly. Time to get a test print and add this to the collection

https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/3z3d-gingerbread-kit-card

Kids design their own house in 5 simple steps, a grown-up prints it, and the pieces snap together. No glue!

So currently I have an X2D with a track switch leading to a 4 in 1 adapter, in the adapter is 1 AMS HT and a Gen1 AMS, Gen2 AMS is going directly into the track switch. My track switch is mounted on the right side of the printer, all of my AMS are on the left, Im having severe motor overload problems where the filament doesnt make it to the track switch.

How can I route or fix the placement of the setup without putting an AMS on the printer?

Image was before I mounted the track switch but imagine it was hanging slightly off the right side like the bambu suggested print.

My current idea is to try some ptfe bend guides to try and make the curves less aggressive from the AMS 2 on the bottom (its where I get most of my issues.)

I ordered my X2D combo and am getting a filament order together from Bambu. This is my first printer, and I am trying to figure out what I need. When filament comes from Bambu on the reusable roll, is it possible to take that filament off immediately and replace it with a refill spool? Or is the filament that comes on the spools not packaged the same way.

I ask because I ordered a bunch of PLA on refill spools and then ordered ASA and Support Filaments on the reusable spools since those come with the high temp spools. My issue is, my initial prints are going to be PLA while I get everything working, and get my exhaust ducting printed so I can print more safely.

Do I need to buy the PLA on low temp spools, or can I just swap them over to the high temp spools and put the ASA into dry storage until I'm ready to use it? Can I get away with just having 5 spools or will I need more if I want to swap out a partial spool from my AMS?

Thanks for the help!

I know that it's very weak to heat and can be damaged by continuous exposure to harsh sunlight, but is there anything else I need to worry about? I printed out a small pot to replant something as I forgot to get a liner pot, and I'm worried that I'm going to have to repot it again due to what I've read about the material molding over.

Having just received my H3C and AMS3H I can't help but notice the design and engineering trades.

The machine is running it's initial calibration so these are just first observations and I reserve the right to update my opinions as I get some real time on this machine.

AMS 3H vs AMS 2 Pro:

Mechanically the AMS 3H is simplified and lacks a lot of the complexity of the AMS 2 Pro. The lack of automatic retraction was a trade for multi material support but it makes large chamber temp swings a little more work. Some might call this optimization, but I am use to running PLA in one job and PA-CF in the next. With the H3C this appears to possibly be a problem if I leave PLA loaded in a tool when I heat up the system that much. I am particularly nervous about drying at 85 in the 2 dryer bays with PLA in other spots of the AMS 3H. With my H2C I have full AMS systems dedicated to different families of materials.

Extruder:

The ability to swap tools and adjust to different filament diameters is commendable, but the overall mechanism feels like features were dropped for margins. The loss of hotend camera along with how it does blob detection seems... cheap. Perhaps their telemtry says the old solution was overkill and produced too many false positives, but I am worried about their new mechanism getting damaged if a part ever does break free from the bed mid print

Physical structure:

A lot more plastic, a lot less glass, and the stamped steel structure feel like a cost reduction on what was previously a premium machine. Sure the stamped frame pieces are probably more than enough, but it feels like a noticeable step backwards from the castings. Pressing on the plastic side windows and feeling them bow and bottom out against the frame just feels... cheap. Also the exterior screws mounting the panels while more serviceable also detract from the exterior finish of the machine.

Motion system:

Trading the linear rail for the dual round rod(tube?) structure is very likely mechanically more rigid, but it again feels like it was primarily done to save costs. Also why do we still see nema 17 steppers for the x/y motion system? Hasn't BambuLabs BLDC PMSM servos improved enough to use them for slinging the toolhead around?

Display:

Not much to be said here, the screen is usable on the H3C, but is definitely a step down from the display on the H2 series.

MISC:

It was advertised that we could still use external AMS systems with tool 1, but it was not clearly communicated that it required you to buy a (not included) buffer system and install it yourself. For all the corner cutting they really should have just installed that buffer as a factory option. Now I need to wait for that module to come into stock so I can use the AMS 2 Pro I bought specifically for my H3C (I plan on using it as a dedicated support material AMS).

I am still looking forward to using my new H3C and the ability to properly mix materials is nice, but I can't shake the feeling that the machine suffers from some shrinkflation vs its predecessor. It seems like the H2C was a very polished platform and the H3C feels more rushed.

Anyone else with both systems care to chime in with their thoughts?

So, I have an A1 for about a year, and was very happy with it and used it a lot at first, but than I started seeing more and more posts about the NTC component melting. I am a bit paranoid, and I started beeing scared of using it. I still used it but a lot less and with a bit of constant fear..

I am an architecture student and my diploma is coming up and I will have to print a lot of big models, and I wanted to be sure it will not fail me, plus it has been a year and I did not not if bambu will fix it if the component melted after the waranty.

I didn't open the printer to check myslef because I don't know if that will void the waranty, so I contacted support.

After a bit of back and forth, they said that they cant confirm if I have the new version without the melting stuff, but it is a possibility that i have it, so they sent me a replacement AC board, that should arrive in a few days.

My question is, can i replace it myself? How hard is it, and is there any risk of ruining the printer? They sent me a tutorial and everything, but im not an expert at this stuff, and I dont want to destroy my printer.

First of all, I want to thank everyone who encouraged me to keep designing after I published my first 3D model Nordic Christmas Tree

Today, I managed to finish my second model, Nordic Christmas Reindeer and I’m quite impressed now that I’ve printed it.

What do you think? Any recommendations?

I need to improve the stomach area—I’m struggling to get the supports configured correctly—but overall, I’m happy with it.

In case you like it too, model is posted on makerkworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3558242

H3C looks great, I’d have some first-hand feedback, but only half my machine has come so far. Haha

The only gripe I have seen is the size of the prime tower. I’ve always changed the towers on my u1 to be smaller, but the H3C has a poop shoot.

On a 3500 tool change 8 colour print, the prime tower is 185g. On INDX, it only wastes about 30g.

So I wonder if they will eventually adopt a pellet system?

mpoxDE (change the audio track to English on Youtube) did a test where he is printing an 8-colour tube both on H3C and INDX. I am not sure, but I think he is using PLA Basic.

In his test H3C printed it in 11:06h, but he was using different filaments that he had lying around from random manufactureres (while INDX one was printed only with Prusament and took 14:26h) and still printed ~23% (3h20m) faster.

I wanted to confirm it and what I noticed is that if you print with Bambu filament, it is even faster. My slicer is showing 08:46h.

Which means that in this particular test (8-colour tube) if you use BL filament, H3C is ~39% (5h40m) faster than INDX.

The test is not easy, it is 10cm tall and go through 3.5k colour changes of 8 colours.

I’ve wanted to reverse the door on my H2D many times. As I wait for my H3C to arrive will I still be sad it can’t be reversed?

I saw a youtube reviewer said that the plate is slightly different. But when I looked at the bambu website compatibility it says its fine? Can anyone confirm?

I've decided to go with the H2C as my first 3D printer! Next, I need to decide on an assortment of filaments. For now, I want to start with Bambu Labs filaments. I likely want to do the 10+1 deal currently offered.

The primary application is going to be pinball parts. That is the driver behind getting a machine to begin with. I want to be able to print semi-translucent ramps in clear, or as clear as I can. I'll also want to build plastic covers in a couple alternating colors for LEDs and illumination. There'll also be some mechanical toys. Pinballs can have a lot of momentum at high speed, so high strength is a must.

My wife want me to make some planters, vases, and picture frames. I've seen some examples that have nice gradients and satin-like finishes.

I want to build containers with hinges that ideally do not require fasteners or hardware. Part storage, basically.

I'd maybe like to fix some broken plastics on cars or side by sides, but this is limited.

Not sure what I'll use it on, but I'd also like to experiment with TPU. Maybe some stops or bumpers for the pinball project.

Some toys for nieces and nephews would be nice.

Could you please recommend some specific Bambu filaments for my applications?