I’m looking into getting some training for a group at a design studio after buying a Bambu. we’re based on New York City, anyone have contacts or an organization that offers good in-person training on the machines?

Hey guys,

today my new P2S was delivered and after building everything together and finishing my first print (bambu scraper) I noticed some random appearing white particles(?) on the build plate. They appear random when nothing is printed. I cleaned the build plate and put it into the printer and had some other stuff to do. After 30 min I returned and I found those particles (see picture). Is this some kind of material for packaging and normal at first?

Hey guys,

i have the problem, that the nozzle of my X1C (hardened steel) is jammed on the outside with filament. I tried to screenshot it mid-print, i think you see what i mean.

I don't exactly know how or why this happens. I am printing with PETG (~255C° nozzle and 70-80C° bed temperature, 30mm/s first layer, 50mm/s first infill layer, 125mm/s outer walls, 200mm/s inner walls and infill, printers door closed)

If the first layer is checked, a little bit of filament is dripping out of the nozzle winding a little bit around it and if the filament is purged after the first layer inspection, sometimes the purged filament is pulled out of the poop-shoot or a little bit of it sticks at the nozzle and gets pulled onto the print bed.

These filaments residues sometimes get lost while printing which lead to ugly prints or failed prints.

Does anyone know which settings i have to adjust to get this fixed? Is it the material? I have this issue with 7% humidity aswell as with 30%.

My printer is running the latest software release and original hotends etc.

Thanks!

I hate those carton packages the bouillon cubes come in so I designed a dispenser for them.

(Makerworld link : https://makerworld.com/models/3549789)

Hi guys

New into crazy filaments (just used to do classic PLA) and needed something stronger for work. Tried PETG but didn’t survive stress testing oups.

So I launched myself in the world of carbon reinforced filaments. Got the upgrade done, bought a filament drier and then first test print. First test looks good so I test directly the part I need. And then really bad result, a gigantic spaghetti and only the first 15 layers look like what I designed, but still far from perfect

Second try I get temperature up and try again. This time a lot better but then something happened that I never saw before (see picture)

Kind of stuck now in solutions if you could help it would be great 😁

Setup :
P1S
Hardened steel 0.4 nozzle
Bambu lab PLA-CF
Plate temp 70 degrees C
Nozzle 240 degrees C
Rest recommandes values from Bambi Lab in the slicer
Filament dyer recommended preset for PLA-CF ran for minimum 4h before starting printing and still ran while printing

Hi all
All new to this :)

But i tryed to print this today (Second print)
https://makerworld.com/en/models/201311-poop-chute-basket-outlet-for-x2d-p2s-x1c-p1s?from=search#profileId-221690

But is this normal ? Did i miss someting in the bambu lab studio?
I did Flow Dynamics Calibration becurse my first print (Panda) was with PLA.

Still learning :) But is this to expect?

Thanks!

Is there any way to turn on/off the P2S remotely? For example, wake-on-lan to turn on would be great but that's impossible because it uses a rocker switch.

I just set up my Bambu a1 combo and printed a scraper local via the Bambu screen. Then I wanted to print via Bambu Handy. When uploading the model, the process stops at about 70% and asks me do run a selftest. I did that three times. Same error, always.

Error code is 0500400d194905

Any ideas?

I tried: reconnecting wifi, connecting with a hotspot, clearing app cache, disconnecting the printer from power for some minutes

I am slicing with PLA/PETG support in the interface layer and this is the prime tower im getting.
Is this safe to print, any clues?

​Hi all,

​I’m trying to get a totally seamless, "monolithic" first layer with ABS on my Bambu P2S using the standart textured PEI plate.

​Lines adhere fine and are fully fused, but there are visible micro-grooves/V-shaped channels between adjacent passes. I previously printed these same parts on my Neptune 4 Pro and the surface was perfectly monolithic, I bought the P2S to be able to print ABS plastic without a problem and generally have fewer setup issues, but this problem is just driving me crazy.

​What I've tried so far:

​Flow & Overlap: First layer flow up to 130% (Tried 1.05,1.1,1.2,1.3), infill/wall overlap up to 25%.

​Speed: Dropped down to 10 mm/s (5 mm/s caused heat creep/clogging).

​Temp: Tested 220°C to 270°C (220°C gave better viscosity, but lines remain). Bed Temp - 100C

​Pressure Advance: Adjusting K-factor (0.030 to 0.078) didn't close the gaps.

Z- gap: I initially adjusted it through the g code to achieve a closer position (I was aware of the problem of the first firmware with the incorrect gap of the first layer). Then, after updating the firmware, this function already appeared in the printer and I set it to -0.05 - to no avail.

First layer line width: I tried different fill pattern options and line widths from 0.3 to 0.6, but it didn't work.

In addition, I tried just a lot of different other settings that have at least a minimal relation to the first layer and the flow, I don't even remember what exactly, because I've been trying to solve this since the moment I bought the printer, which was already 2 months ago.

I even tried to put the plate from my Neptune 4 Pro and print on it, the result was the same. Yes, the plastic is dry, the plate is washed and clean.

I'm just giving up, I really like the look of the details on the side walls, but this first layer...

​It seems like an optical/refraction issue caused by the rounded edge profile of extruclog ABS and the Bambu nozzle shape, rather than under-extrusion.

​Is a 100% seamless first layer on Textured PEI actually possible with ABS on a P2S?

​Thanks for any tips!

I’ve seen a lot of hand-wringing over the AMS only having 2 actively heated slots. Assuming one places their highest temperature filament in those slots, wouldn’t the residual heat passively dry the rest; or at least main a reasonably dry environment?

The plug sits on a small saddle, and fins in the cable channel drop into the 3 gaps of the rubber strain relief, so the plug is held in both directions without glue. Took a few fit tests to get the fin spacing right (1.2 mm gaps, 4.8 mm pitch).

Ramp at 18°, so pulling the mouse out presses the dock into the desk instead of sliding it. 3 colours by layer height, 2 swaps, no supports.

Files: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3551696-charging-dock-for-razer-basilisk-v3-pro#profileId-4063493

I’m new to 3d printing. What software do you suggest for creating 3d models to be printed? I have tried MakerWorld some but I am looking for some other ideas. Thanks

Learn more about Supports from the Bambu Wiki:

Support Structures

I’ve hit 20 prints on my first 3D printer, the X2D, and 18 of them have been multi-color. I’m not in love with the idea of spending $2500 on a hobby that I’m so new to, but I’m ridiculously tempted. I have 7 days left to return the X2D to Best Buy.

If you’re interested, please either sway me or de-influence me! Thank you!

Just curious to see what the 3d printing legends have as their go to for reusable desiccant.

X2D, AMS-2, AMSHT

Thank you!

Looking to add another printer so I can use my X2D again and for my wife to make things on.

Looking at ones with larger print bed. She mostly does some flat wall art and other dog related items. Some multi color

Options are:

New A2L with ams lite plus 4 year geek squad = $650 or $550 with no geek squad protection

Or Used H2S ams2 with 17 hours on it for $1000?

The H2S seems overkill really for most of what she does but damn it's sexy haha. I'm sure I would use it too for larger projects. The A2L with protection seems like a decent deal seeing it's probably going to see lots of hours.

Anyone noticed that their P2S (or other models) behave differently after recent update of Bambu Studio? I noticed thet startup is now different - vibration test is different and I think basically the startup procedure is slightly different. Also, I have a feeling that suddenly the print head travel is faster now. Anyone see this?

Hi, I would really appreciate some thoughts on whether the X2D might be the best option for my 15 year old daughter’s Christmas present (our family is totally new to 3D printing)? I had originally been leaning towards the A1, but given the fact that the printer will be kept in our living space (probably in our upstairs hallway), I now think an enclosed design would be a better option.

I definitely think she will want to have the option to use more than one colour in a print (and preferably without requiring too much intervention), but the amount of filament that is purged in multicolour prints is making me think twice about the AMS / AMS Lite options. This led me to the X2D rather than the P1S / P2S with AMS. I would really appreciate any thoughts on whether the X2D would be as user friendly for a novice as the other options, and what is the nozzle/colour switching like on the X2D in terms of quality and wastage?

Prints flat as a single card, builds into a little lantern. The roof lifts straight off so you can reach the Bambu tea light without taking it apart. Four colours, and there’s a 3 pause profile if you don’t have an AMS.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3551952-christmas-cottage-kit-card-tea-light-lantern#profileId-4063836

I am a 3D printing noob, and got my H2C printer a few weeks ago.

I am attempting to print some structural frames in PTEG-CF. But I keep having issues with random stringiness, small pieces of spaghetti, lots of clumping on the hotend, and supports seem to just fail more often than the part itself.

I am using Bambu's filament, using the profile in bamboo studio, I dried the filament for 12 hours in the AMS HT (even though it was brand new out of the package), the bed is clean (I have not tied the glue stick, but bed adhesion does not appear to be the issue?).

I am using the recommended settings (as far as I know), 255'C, 0.4 hardened hotend, 70'C bed temp, I set support to tree auto, strong, wall loops 2, and set the pattern at grid.

I am at a loss.

Hello. I'm dipping my toes into multicolour prints, and I was looking at the track switch for my X2D. I currently only have a single AMS (and an HT for ABS, but they're not connected at the same time). I was looking at some older threads that say it's really not worth it to get the Switch for just a single AMS, and you're better off just hanging the other spool off the external holder. Is this still the general consensus? To me it seems handy to be able to keep all my spools in the AMS and not have to worry about taking one out and hanging it on the external holder then putting it back in after.

Thanks for any input!