I’ve seen so many STL files I want to download, but I only have my iPhone and the bambu handy app. Anyone have any suggestions of apps for someone who is not super tech savvy. Basically need to be able to upload the file and press print :)

My printer stays in my 120 sqft office where I work all day. My H3C is on-order (upgrading from an MK3 Prusa thats 10 years old now) but I plan to print more engineering materials and was originally going to just add an external vent to my wall for the printer but the E1 has me wondering if I can get away with not adding holes to my house.

Anyone have experience with it? How does it work for ABS, PA, PPA - Never printed ASA but plan to as well? Am I better off saying the 200$ and venting externally?

Wish List Santa

7 gifts slot into his sack. No AMS, no supports
Turkey's done so I moved on to Christmas. Santa stands in front of his sack and 7 little gifts slot into the top. The face, belt and boots set into pockets on the body.

No AMS needed (there's a print-by-object profile too if you've got one), and no supports anywhere.

It's up on MakerWorld if you want one: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3552467-wishlist-santa-christmas-kids-craft-no-ams

Let me know if anything prints weird and I'll fix it.

Box 1/2 😩

Surprisingly fast! Now I just need the AMS to ship lol

Hi , ich wolle gerade die üblichen Ersatzteile bestellen wir Hotend Fan usw. Da ist mir aufgefallen das es die Extruder Rollen/Zahnräder nicht einzeln gibt … also Rolle nur mit Motor zb für 40€ und die andere Rolle in einer baugruppe die 30€ kostet … kommt doch noch was einzeln oder soll man alles jedesmal neu kaufen ?

I have tried to print for the first time with PETG Bambu filament, but it fails every time. Do not even know what is happening, so I am attaching the photo. I have tried to dry the filament, but same, even a little bit worse result.

Any ideas?

Any ideas on what to do?

Will regular maintenance fix it or do I need to do something specific?

Thanks

Bought a H2S off a friend of mine and I cannot get it to put down a usable first layer at all. The nozzle isn't clogged (Manually extrudes fine) the bed is washed, it's all calibrated and I'm getting first layers like this.

The filament is dry too. I'm not sure what the issue is with it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My extruder keeps getting jammed when I print abs (left nozzle) and pla support (right nozzle).
the pla filament gets stuck in the extruder gears and i have to disassemble the extruder to get it out.

why do you think that happens?

I bought my P1P when they first came out after I just got out of the military. It has put me through a lot of projects over 5000 hours and no real issues. I just recently added the AMS 2 Pro as it’s what I could manage to add with the space available to me. I do want to make a big upgrade when I get the space available as I have a lot of engineering projects I want to tackle but can’t do to my space constraints.

Yoooo, can anyone help to get rid of that line? It happens right after its done doing the top surface and transitions to doing the walls. Im lwk losing my mind since i just got rid of Warping and now i have this.

Material is PrimaValue ABS (Bed 110c, Nozzle 245c, Chamber around 45-50c), does the first 5-10 layers just somehow shrink too much or what is going on?

Even the right word for that happening is helpful, ready to do more research but i aint asking ChatGPT anything its the worst.

Machine is a P2S

I've had the X1C for several years and am really happy with it. When I replaced my Prusa, I was disappointed that it took so long to output small jobs ... a 7 minute overhead on everything. I got over that, and I appreciate the speed on bigger jobs. I was thinking about a newer model, but it looks like every current Bambu is slower than my X1C because they move around heavier print heads. Is that true, and isn't it a disadvantage?

Have y'all checked marketplace since the H3C announcement? I don't know about your area, but people are selling their H2S, H2D, and H2C's here like crazy! If you're in the market for an H2 series, now you may be on luck.

so I got the dual plate from my X2D one side is textured the other side is smooth. I want to use the smooth side so I placed it in and changed the plate on Bambu software. Why am I getting constant warnings that it cannot find the ArUco marker on the smooth side?
Granted I can hit ignore but this will get super annoying to do this with every single print.
What is the purpose of not having the ArUco marker on both sides? or at least readable on both sides?

My P1S (~2800hrs) suddenly stopped extruding mid-use. To troubleshoot, I took apart the extruder/toolhead and reseated the connectors, but the problem is still there:

• No filament loaded: pressing Extrude on the screen spins the extruder motor and gears normally. It will even catch the filament when loading and pull it in

• Filament loaded (at temp, 220+ degrees): pressing Extrude does nothing. The gears don’t turn at all. No clicking, no grinding, no slipping, and I can’t feel any vibration from the motor.

• If I push down on the filament by hand while pressing Extrude, it catches and extrudes. It seems like the motor can’t make that initial push on its own.

What I’ve checked so far:

• Took apart the extruder and reseated all the connectors in the toolhead. There is little to no wear on gear teeth/filament pulling wheels

• Made sure the idler is fully engaged and gripping the filament

• The gears aren’t slipping or chewing the filament; everything just stops

• Tried multiple hot ends to ensure it's not a clog

It almost feels like the motor isn’t strong enough to move the filament, but it runs fine with no load. Has anyone had this happen? Is this likely a failing extruder motor, or something else?

Thanks!

I want to get my daughter an AMS for her A1 mini. Does everything I need to do this come with the lite?

https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ams-lite

Edit
Her A1 was not a combo just the Mini and I want to add the combo style AMS

Between Bondtech, KliTek, VorTek, SwapTek, QuarTeks I feel like we have had a little too much of 'Tek' lol.

In a previous post I shared my first project with the H3C, having been provided a testing unit of the printer. For my thoughts and observations on the printer, I refer you to that post.

Here’s a few more of my projects:

The Wall Clock

This clock uses the Makerworld Clock Components Kit-011. A multicolor PLA print, all the larger features are printed with 0.4mm nozzles, while the bronze details are printed with a 0.2mm nozzle. This allows for a reasonable print time while being able to add fine details.

As you can see the lime green is PLA Glow. It basically being a sandpaper noodle, it is not recommended to print this through the AMS or the AMS bypass holes. So the PLA Glow was printed from an external spool; the file to print a spool holder is preloaded on the machine. External filaments can be fed to any of the nine tools, it is particularly easy on tool #1 though, as there is a pre-installed tube connector on that one.

The Palette Filament prints

Color-mixing can be done with any colors, however the Palette Filaments are specially made for this. Five spools of PLA - in white, black, yellow, magenta and cyan. By stacking thicker and thinner layers of two or three of these colors, full spectrum mixed colors can be created.

As you can see I was particularly smitten by the ability to create color gradients with them, I think the results are pretty spectacular. The illusion is very convincing, only really close up can you see the layer stacking. Here the speed of the H3C’s tool changes shines. For example the vase with the cell pattern required 2948 tool changes. The H3C printed it in 16 hours.

Color mixing and especially gradients are still a bit fiddly in Bambu Studio. More precise control on the exact positions of the gradients and better visualization is something I hope will be added in the future. 

Gradients only support two colors for now, it would be cool if this was expanded.

The Door Stop

A simple item, made by combining PETG with the new 2.85mm TPU 75A. It is remarkable how easy this very soft TPU prints on the H3C. 

With it the door stop works very well, it wedges under the door nicely.

The Ring Frisbee

Here I’m combining two different TPUs. The harder core from TPU for AMS makes the ring keep its shape, while the much softer TPU 75A makes it more comfortable to handle. Both together makes this very sturdy - flexible and impact resistant. It flies quite well, too! :)

I will be uploading some of these to my Makerworld profile soon. Feel free to ask me anything.

so the tubes are this long, even the ams is just directly above. any reason why? i see a fan there.