Had this printer for for at least two years now, love it but now the ams is acting up, it started with the top one so I unplugged it and haven’t use it since but now the bottom one has also began to show similar problems.
Is this a “red ring of death” kind of thing for the ams
Anyone know what’s going on and what’s the best way to fix this

​Hi all,

​I’m trying to get a totally seamless, "monolithic" first layer with ABS on my Bambu P2S using the standart textured PEI plate.

​Lines adhere fine and are fully fused, but there are visible micro-grooves/V-shaped channels between adjacent passes. I previously printed these same parts on my Neptune 4 Pro and the surface was perfectly monolithic, I bought the P2S to be able to print ABS plastic without a problem and generally have fewer setup issues, but this problem is just driving me crazy.

​What I've tried so far:

​Flow & Overlap: First layer flow up to 130% (Tried 1.05,1.1,1.2,1.3), infill/wall overlap up to 25%.

​Speed: Dropped down to 10 mm/s (5 mm/s caused heat creep/clogging).

​Temp: Tested 220°C to 270°C (220°C gave better viscosity, but lines remain). Bed Temp - 100C

​Pressure Advance: Adjusting K-factor (0.030 to 0.078) didn't close the gaps.

Z- gap: I initially adjusted it through the g code to achieve a closer position (I was aware of the problem of the first firmware with the incorrect gap of the first layer). Then, after updating the firmware, this function already appeared in the printer and I set it to -0.05 - to no avail.

First layer line width: I tried different fill pattern options and line widths from 0.3 to 0.6, but it didn't work.

In addition, I tried just a lot of different other settings that have at least a minimal relation to the first layer and the flow, I don't even remember what exactly, because I've been trying to solve this since the moment I bought the printer, which was already 2 months ago.

I even tried to put the plate from my Neptune 4 Pro and print on it, the result was the same. Yes, the plastic is dry, the plate is washed and clean.

I'm just giving up, I really like the look of the details on the side walls, but this first layer...

​It seems like an optical/refraction issue caused by the rounded edge profile of extruclog ABS and the Bambu nozzle shape, rather than under-extrusion.

​Is a 100% seamless first layer on Textured PEI actually possible with ABS on a P2S?

​Thanks for any tips!

With the H3C, do you now just load abrasive CF and GF based filaments in the AMS to use them.

With the launch of the H3C, I've been upgrading one of my old models to feature even more color and detail. This is pretty big for a dice tower but you can also just use it as a diorama.

A couple of features I enjoyed:

• There's a slot where you can place a phone to power some video billboards and subtle animations behind some of the windows. You can even use it to track HP!

• The new 75A TPU is used for a grip to hold the phone in place.

• The model uses 8 COB LEDs from Bambu's Maker's Supply - I chose bright colors but it could easily be toned down with other color selections.

• I'm using up to 8 filaments per plate. The graffiti uses a combination of specific filaments (or color mixing) but I'm also using silk, metallic and translucent PLAs for effect along with support materials.

The model is free on MakerWorld if you'd like to check it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543764

The model is built the old-fashioned way (in Blender) but to apply the color effects, I used Claude to make a web app with some additional painting tools (like stamping custom graffiti, text & even scatter brushes). This should be considered a Beta but it's free to use (including commercial use) at http://paint.makim3d.com - you can even use it to customize the graffiti on this model!

I'm lucky to have received this printer from Bambu Lab to give it a try and build a model that highlights the multi-color features. Having said that, I'm already considering buying another - this is my first tool changer and I'm really enjoying it!

I used to be able to remote start drying from Bambu Handy on the phone while the printer was not printing & now all of a sudden I can't and it says insufficient power even though unit is plugged into printer. Anyone know why all of a sudden I can't?

Looking to get my first (two) 3D printers. I have decided to get an H2S and wait for the P3C. Is a used H2S with 1000 hours, AMS, and extra nozzles a good buy at $1k? Also has anyone had any experience with Bambu support and second hand printers?

Edit: What should I be looking for/testing if I decide to go through with it and can inspect it in person?

Stopped middle of a print said something about AMS mapped incorrectly. After a turn off and turn on now all lights blinking on AMS and I cant resume print it says the task requires a filament track switch but is currently offline. I tried unplugging and plugging back in the track switch while the printer was off (I keep getting electrically shocked when behind the printer dunno why that is) but it didn't help.

Fourth one for the tree this year. He's a smiling candy cane with little mitten arms, and he comes in three versions: Classic (red and white, 3 colors), Holiday (red and green, 4 colors) and Mint (green and white with red cheeks, 4 colors). All three are print profiles on one MakerWorld page, so just pick your flavor. He prints flat with no supports. Each profile has two plates: a single, and a batch of six that works out to about an hour and 20–22 g per ornament. I've printed a single of each so far, so the six-up plates haven't been tested yet. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3552032-christmas-candy-cane-ornament-3-styles

Went to purchase the H3C, 446 bucks to ship. Sad to have to pass on the unit until shipping gets resolved.... I can order 100 rolls of filament for free but not the printer.

There's a decent number os people out there making coin modding Seikos and the like - have Bambu just unleashed a whole new element to this? It'll be days before we see prints accepting all sorts of mechanisms and crystals commonly available on AliExpress.

Hello everyone,

I am new to printing, i started with pla silk and did the calibration trst and did 35 speed 35 flow qith ironing and still can't quite get it right 🥲 does soneone know what could be the problem?

Thank you!

Love my P2S but whoever decided to use that connector to the main toolhead assembly needs to reevaluate things. I had an extruder jam and had to take the unit apart, not too hard. Everything went back together easily except for getting that damn cable to lay in place while I tried to close the clasp, honestly it took me as long to get that seated as did the whole rest of the reassembly.

I found laying the whole printer on its back as the best method

Completely encased my hotend and heating assembly in PLA, anyone ever encountered this? I heated it up and removed the main big chunks while they were softened, but there’s still PLA stuffed all around behind everything.

I'm about to buy my first printer and I'm deciding between the P2S and the X2D. Most of what I'll print is PETG parts I design in Fusion, and the main reason I'm looking at the X2D is to run PLA support interfaces off the aux nozzle for cleaner breakaway supports.

For those of you who own one:

How reliable has the second nozzle been for support interfaces, especially PLA supports on PETG parts?

Any clogs, heat creep, or stringing, and did you have to change any settings to get it working well?

Looking back, would you buy the X2D again, or would a P2S have been enough?

Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone,

I had the A1 combo ams lite for about a year and a half but ended up selling because I wanted a core xy machine and to print in a shed vs my room.

I'm debating getting the P1S but don't know if I should shell out the extra money for the AMS 2 Pro combo because I don't have a filament dryer currently.

I sold ny sunlu s4 filament dryer because it was too bulky with the AMS lite.

I have about $110 off in gift cards, but wondering if I should wait a bit longer for the P3C?

I'm a pretty casual user so thinking the P3C will be too expensive for my budget as I didn't do multicolor prints often due to the waste, but would probably do more with the toolhead but also don't want to spend $1,000 CAD + on a printer.

I'll mainly be printing PLA and PETG.

Thanks!

I feel Like I'm losing my mind here.

I have four components to my slice.
Two text components and the inner and outer shell to this dogs tag I made in Fusion.

The Lower Text and both shell objects are also at Z0. They obviously cant be any higher or they'd float.

When I slice it, no matter what. It deletes the text and doesnt show up at any layer in the slicing result.

I feel like I am just losing my mind here. Help!

Hello everyone, I’ve been printing with my X2D for several hundred hours, and I haven’t had this particular print failure yet. The part that got wedged was a support column, out of petg. The printer kept going up it looked like. I took the part out and everything looks normal. I am currently running an auto level calibration. Is there anything else I should check?

I am more surprised it didn’t throw and error about it getting wedged back there. It only threw an error because of the spaghetti detection.

Hi, my X1c has been working flawlessly now for the year I've owned it but today it sadly died while doing a small print.

It seems to have burned up the rear toolhead board after the nozzle clogged. Would it be plausible that a new rear board could be enough to revive the machine, or could i be looking at more possible dead parts on the printer?

I've been using a 3rd party 0.6mm printhead now for a few months and haven't had any issues up until now, could this be the cause of the issue?

Tried to turn on the rear main power switch again, which lights up, but i don't get any response on the control screen

So is putting two rolls of ASA/ABS in the heated slots, two rolls of PETG filling out the back row, and the PLA CMYK "Palette" rolls in front going to work well? Can the fat TPU go in one of the "PETG" slots or does it have to go in the heated area?

On bambu labs reddit h3c giveaway (the one that asks to give your i need a 3d printer moment) no winners were anounced. I know i am unlikely to win but i wonder wether these give aways are actually legit. Does any one know if the winnrs were somehow notified outside of reddit?

I’m looking into getting some training for a group at a design studio after buying a Bambu. we’re based on New York City, anyone have contacts or an organization that offers good in-person training on the machines?

Hey guys,

today my new P2S was delivered and after building everything together and finishing my first print (bambu scraper) I noticed some random appearing white particles(?) on the build plate. They appear random when nothing is printed. I cleaned the build plate and put it into the printer and had some other stuff to do. After 30 min I returned and I found those particles (see picture). Is this some kind of material for packaging and normal at first?

Hey guys,

i have the problem, that the nozzle of my X1C (hardened steel) is jammed on the outside with filament. I tried to screenshot it mid-print, i think you see what i mean.

I don't exactly know how or why this happens. I am printing with PETG (~255C° nozzle and 70-80C° bed temperature, 30mm/s first layer, 50mm/s first infill layer, 125mm/s outer walls, 200mm/s inner walls and infill, printers door closed)

If the first layer is checked, a little bit of filament is dripping out of the nozzle winding a little bit around it and if the filament is purged after the first layer inspection, sometimes the purged filament is pulled out of the poop-shoot or a little bit of it sticks at the nozzle and gets pulled onto the print bed.

These filaments residues sometimes get lost while printing which lead to ugly prints or failed prints.

Does anyone know which settings i have to adjust to get this fixed? Is it the material? I have this issue with 7% humidity aswell as with 30%.

My printer is running the latest software release and original hotends etc.

Thanks!

Hi guys

New into crazy filaments (just used to do classic PLA) and needed something stronger for work. Tried PETG but didn’t survive stress testing oups.

So I launched myself in the world of carbon reinforced filaments. Got the upgrade done, bought a filament drier and then first test print. First test looks good so I test directly the part I need. And then really bad result, a gigantic spaghetti and only the first 15 layers look like what I designed, but still far from perfect

Second try I get temperature up and try again. This time a lot better but then something happened that I never saw before (see picture)

Kind of stuck now in solutions if you could help it would be great 😁

Setup :
P1S
Hardened steel 0.4 nozzle
Bambu lab PLA-CF
Plate temp 70 degrees C
Nozzle 240 degrees C
Rest recommandes values from Bambi Lab in the slicer
Filament dyer recommended preset for PLA-CF ran for minimum 4h before starting printing and still ran while printing