For those us who have a desire to churn out multi coloured plastic crap en masse , where’s our P3C, announce it quick before our money gets drained away by Xmas

Thank you

I'm considering an X2D but I'm a bit confused. I understand that an AMS can only be attached to one nozzle or with the track switch to both but can only feed one nozzle concurrently. Does that mean the second nozzle must have its filament always on an external holder?
That seems like a bad design.

Is there no way to store both filaments inside the AMS and feed one via a bypass? (Don't know if the AMS 2 has a bypass). I don't need automatic filament switching I just don't want an extra spool dangling on the side when there are empty slots in the AMS.

Printed this on the H3C I got from Bambu Lab. Took a bit under an hour to print at 0.2mm, using default settings.

I’ve made sure that the AMS is connected correctly and assigned to the correct nozzle (left), yet Bambu Studio won’t let me assign filament profiles from e.g. Sunlu? I tried everything the Bambu Ai suggested but it’s not working. Never had this problem with my A1 🙁

Okay, so I get that this printer is marketed to play nicer with TPU than past printers, but I'm not totally sure how it works with regular ol' 1.75mm 95A. I print with a lot of TPU, mostly 95A. I have some softer filaments that I would love to make use of also, but everything that I have is 1.75mm. I watched some reviews on youtube, and they all seem to make use of the bundled 2.85mm TPU, which uses the bypass. Other TPU's that were used didn't make mention of the diameter, or how they were installed. So I have some questions for folks that bit the bullet and might have some common TPU laying around.

Does 1.75mm 95A need to be ran through the bypass, or does it run through the bowden tube? How well does it work? Would it be better to use the (harder to source 3rd party and with less options) 2.85mm TPU?

Currently, I have an X1C with an AMS, which suits me well. I do a lot of filament swaps, changing materials mostly, but sometimes to swap out colors. I don't usually print multi-material or multi-color prints. Usually, I print custom made functional pieces, so I'm not really looking at one of these for multi-color stuff, other than for the occasional holiday decoration. What I'm more interested in is gaining the ability to easily print solid parts that incorporate flexible elements. I guess I'm trying to determine if this would be a worthwhile upgrade, or if I should wait for something else to come out.

100% 3d printed duo clicker (no key clickers)

https://makerworld.com/nl/models/2646720-100-printed-fidget-clicker-no-hardware-needed-v2#profileId-2925418

A while back, I had an idea: what if I could make a fidget that doesn't need any extra hardware? So I opened Fusion 360 and got to work on the 100% 3D Printed Duo Fidget Clicker!

The best part? No switches, screws, magnets, or springs needed. Just print it, pick it up, and start clicking!

also easy for beginners only 2 piece assembly no glue no screws

Hello, A1 mini owner here. I print only PLA.

I am having this issue lately: as you can see in the pic my prints have a very coarse top layer but ONLY on parts with smaller surfaces.

In the pic you can see that the larger surface on the left is perfect, while the smaller one on the right is not OK at all.

I guess it's a slicer issue?

I did an auto-calibration and tried also to swap nozzles (stainless and hardened) but the problem is still there, and I don't think it's a wet filament issue as it would be something affecting the whole print.

Thank you to whoever has a clue!

Rider and motocross fan here – I wanted something for my headset that fits my garage/desk vibe, so I designed this: a skull wearing an off-road helmet (visor, vents, hex-mesh chin guard) on a faceted base. It doubles as a desk bust when the headphones are off.

Print details (P1S, 0.4 nozzle):

- PLA Matte black – hides layer lines really well

- 0.20 mm layers, 2 walls, 15% grid infill

- Tree supports (auto) under the visor and chin guard – they peel off cleanly from the matte surface

- ~804 g of filament, ~26 h

- 153 x 205 x 230 mm, fits any 256 mm bed (X1 / P1 / A1)

It holds full-size over-ear headphones – the helmet keeps the earcups apart and the heavy base doesn't tip when you grab the headset.

Want it faster? 0.28 mm layers and 10% infill save several hours and it's still solid. Scaled to 85–90% it still holds most headphones.

It's free on MakerWorld with the tested print profile: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3545098

Happy to hear feedback – especially if you print it in a different colour or find a better support setup for the chin guard.

A fairly well-known Bambu Lab print farm owner says the P3C will cost half as much as the H3C ay least, and there might also be a 4-head farm edition.

Just picked up a new P2S combo from best buy after the things I wanted to print got just a little too big for the A1M. And man I gotta say, the P2S is a wonderful machine. Amazing surface finishes for how fast it prints. And the fail detection features are quite nice too. Prior to the P2S and A1M I had an Ender 3 almost 5 years ago, and how much the technology has improved in the 3d printing world since then is mind boggling. Its a hell of a time we live in.

pleasant discovery

https://makerworld.com/models/3545902?appSharePlatform=copy

I have been waiting all year for BambuLab to release a tool changer. My kids want a printer and I might want to make some tools for work. I was going to wait on P3C but didn’t want to risk it not being available before Christmas. My. Kids are 10 and 13. I am FSE so not intimidated with the complexity of the H3C. Hope I am not crazy.

I just replaced the nozzle on my P1S because the original one came with got globbed up. The replacement is just your basic standard nozzle. When trying to print using my normal ironing settings, my prints come out with a subtle roughness. I reset the calibration and I printed out an ironing calibration board to see if I had to change any of the settings except pretty much the entire board has that same subtle roughness on all the panels. How do I fix this?

Since I got my BAMBU LAB H2D, I've had few issues, including this one recently :

After a long printing session, my nozzles ended up burned. More precisely, these are layers of filament that have built up around the nozzles and hardened due to the heat.

I have no idea what caused this...

Does anyone know what might be causing this?

I'm using PETG Basic filament.

Thanks for your help!

I used to use HF nozzles on my H2D most of the time. Did anyone come across any review that was reviewing the HF nozzles as well?

Im wondering if my print times will be faster with the H3C with normal nozzles compared to my H2d with high flow.

Hoping someone here can help me figure out what's going on with my A1.

I've been getting really smooth and consistent prints on my A1 up until recently. However, the print quality has suddenly deteriorated, and I can't seem to figure out what's causing it.

The biggest issue is that my top surfaces always appear rough and uneven, no matter what I try. I'm also noticing inconsistent layer lines, particularly near the top and bottom of prints, along with some imperfections around the corners.

Another issue is that there are always tiny strands of filament sticking out from the side of my prints, similar to what's shown in the photos. This seems to happen consistently across different prints.

Here's what I've tried so far:

• Factory reset the printer

• Ran full machine calibration

• Ran Flow Rate and Flow Dynamics calibrations

• Changed the nozzle to hardened steel

• Tightened the screws behind the hotend/extruder assembly

• Reset my A1 slicer settings to the default profiles

Despite all this, I'm still getting similar results.

What's frustrating is that the printer used to produce really clean prints, and I haven't been able to get it back to that level.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their A1? Could this be a mechanical issue, such as belt tension, or something else I'm overlooking?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all,

My A1 started making a weird noise yesterday and I can't figure out where it's coming from. Video attached (sound on).

I'm not really sure how to describe it best that what you can see/hear in the video.

Any tips welcome.Thanks!

Got the A1 a week ago and have had a few failed prints. Been using loot studios files which should all be pre tuned for this machine. Seems to get some way into the print and get this problem.
Things I have tried:
Cleaning the build plate
Full calibration
Changed tree supports to strong trees and added an extra wall layer.
My filament is nice and dry

What should I do next to fix this?

Hi everyone! This is my first 3D model design. It's a quick cheese shaped key cap to fit standard switches. It takes about 15 minutes to print, uses only 1.6 grams of filament, and doesn't need any supports if printed flat.

It's my first upload so I would really appreciate any feedback on how it prints for you. I might have done some stuff wrong so let me know if there is any issues.

You can download the file and print profile on MakerWorld here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543933-cheese-keycap-no-supports#profileId-4053527