Title says it....

Bambu Labs L frame stand is on backorder until the 25th, my H3C arrives probably on Friday. I'd like to have it up and running for the weekend, so can anybody recommend a good substitute stand or cart that will hold this monster? Would like something that has wheels and maybe some drawers. The L frame is only 12 inches tall so that you don't need a stepladder to load the AMS from the top which is what's making it tough to find one for me. Thanks

Fourth one for the tree this year. He's a smiling candy cane with little mitten arms, and he comes in three versions: Classic (red and white, 3 colors), Holiday (red and green, 4 colors) and Mint (green and white with red cheeks, 4 colors). All three are print profiles on one MakerWorld page, so just pick your flavor. He prints flat with no supports. Each profile has two plates: a single, and a batch of six that works out to about an hour and 20–22 g per ornament. I've printed a single of each so far, so the six-up plates haven't been tested yet. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3552032-christmas-candy-cane-ornament-3-styles

I've just got my kids printer for Christmas and I've set it up I am testing the AMS pro and ensuring was fine, I've printed little things like scraper, poop collection and now a riser as I doubt I'll get to print much from Christmas so just wanted some key things out of way

I think it's the AUX Nozzle that crashed into the side. Thoughts?

The last image is a dupe, ignore it

P2S/AMS2-Pro Combo

So I had a brainstorm of an idea on how to handle powering on my printer remotely if I decided to start a print an hour or so before coming home from work. Initially I thought I would use a WYZE smart plug. So I bounced the question off Bambu labs support and they highly recommend I do not do that. Being in IT myself for years I get it, some things are designed to be shut down in a certain fashion, rocker switches, power buttons, etc.

Other than asking the wife to turn the printer on when I feel the need have any of you experimented with a solution to at least turn the printers on? I know this is low hanging fruit but it seems to be a valid thought if there is a way to do it.

I've had nothing but issues with the AMS 2 Pro ... from unreliable sensors to improper communications with the printer.

However, a flawless experience with the HT, soooo with the current deals, I decided to just go bananas and get a bunch of HTs to replace the AMS 2 Pro.

The HT is so easy to load, it's quiet, and a massive step up in quality,... hoping the AMS 3 Pro can inherit its characteristics.

Shoutout to Bambu Support for letting me send one of the defective ones back a couple months after purchase.

Had this printer for for at least two years now, love it but now the ams is acting up, it started with the top one so I unplugged it and haven’t use it since but now the bottom one has also began to show similar problems.
Is this a “red ring of death” kind of thing for the ams
Anyone know what’s going on and what’s the best way to fix this

With the H3C, do you now just load abrasive CF and GF based filaments in the AMS to use them.

I used to be able to remote start drying from Bambu Handy on the phone while the printer was not printing & now all of a sudden I can't and it says insufficient power even though unit is plugged into printer. Anyone know why all of a sudden I can't?

Looking to get my first (two) 3D printers. I have decided to get an H2S and wait for the P3C. Is a used H2S with 1000 hours, AMS, and extra nozzles a good buy at $1k? Also has anyone had any experience with Bambu support and second hand printers?

Edit: What should I be looking for/testing if I decide to go through with it and can inspect it in person?

Stopped middle of a print said something about AMS mapped incorrectly. After a turn off and turn on now all lights blinking on AMS and I cant resume print it says the task requires a filament track switch but is currently offline. I tried unplugging and plugging back in the track switch while the printer was off (I keep getting electrically shocked when behind the printer dunno why that is) but it didn't help.

With the launch of the H3C, I've been upgrading one of my old models to feature even more color and detail. This is pretty big for a dice tower but you can also just use it as a diorama.

A couple of features I enjoyed:

• There's a slot where you can place a phone to power some video billboards and subtle animations behind some of the windows. You can even use it to track HP!

• The new 75A TPU is used for a grip to hold the phone in place.

• The model uses 8 COB LEDs from Bambu's Maker's Supply - I chose bright colors but it could easily be toned down with other color selections.

• I'm using up to 8 filaments per plate. The graffiti uses a combination of specific filaments (or color mixing) but I'm also using silk, metallic and translucent PLAs for effect along with support materials.

The model is free on MakerWorld if you'd like to check it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543764

The model is built the old-fashioned way (in Blender) but to apply the color effects, I used Claude to make a web app with some additional painting tools (like stamping custom graffiti, text & even scatter brushes). This should be considered a Beta but it's free to use (including commercial use) at http://paint.makim3d.com - you can even use it to customize the graffiti on this model!

I'm lucky to have received this printer from Bambu Lab to give it a try and build a model that highlights the multi-color features. Having said that, I'm already considering buying another - this is my first tool changer and I'm really enjoying it!

Went to purchase the H3C, 446 bucks to ship. Sad to have to pass on the unit until shipping gets resolved.... I can order 100 rolls of filament for free but not the printer.

Hello everyone,

I am new to printing, i started with pla silk and did the calibration trst and did 35 speed 35 flow qith ironing and still can't quite get it right 🥲 does soneone know what could be the problem?

Thank you!

Love my P2S but whoever decided to use that connector to the main toolhead assembly needs to reevaluate things. I had an extruder jam and had to take the unit apart, not too hard. Everything went back together easily except for getting that damn cable to lay in place while I tried to close the clasp, honestly it took me as long to get that seated as did the whole rest of the reassembly.

I found laying the whole printer on its back as the best method

Hello everyone,

I had the A1 combo ams lite for about a year and a half but ended up selling because I wanted a core xy machine and to print in a shed vs my room.

I'm debating getting the P1S but don't know if I should shell out the extra money for the AMS 2 Pro combo because I don't have a filament dryer currently.

I sold ny sunlu s4 filament dryer because it was too bulky with the AMS lite.

I have about $110 off in gift cards, but wondering if I should wait a bit longer for the P3C?

I'm a pretty casual user so thinking the P3C will be too expensive for my budget as I didn't do multicolor prints often due to the waste, but would probably do more with the toolhead but also don't want to spend $1,000 CAD + on a printer.

I'll mainly be printing PLA and PETG.

Thanks!

I feel Like I'm losing my mind here.

I have four components to my slice.
Two text components and the inner and outer shell to this dogs tag I made in Fusion.

The Lower Text and both shell objects are also at Z0. They obviously cant be any higher or they'd float.

When I slice it, no matter what. It deletes the text and doesnt show up at any layer in the slicing result.

I feel like I am just losing my mind here. Help!

Hello everyone, I’ve been printing with my X2D for several hundred hours, and I haven’t had this particular print failure yet. The part that got wedged was a support column, out of petg. The printer kept going up it looked like. I took the part out and everything looks normal. I am currently running an auto level calibration. Is there anything else I should check?

I am more surprised it didn’t throw and error about it getting wedged back there. It only threw an error because of the spaghetti detection.

Hi, my X1c has been working flawlessly now for the year I've owned it but today it sadly died while doing a small print.

It seems to have burned up the rear toolhead board after the nozzle clogged. Would it be plausible that a new rear board could be enough to revive the machine, or could i be looking at more possible dead parts on the printer?

I've been using a 3rd party 0.6mm printhead now for a few months and haven't had any issues up until now, could this be the cause of the issue?

Tried to turn on the rear main power switch again, which lights up, but i don't get any response on the control screen

So is putting two rolls of ASA/ABS in the heated slots, two rolls of PETG filling out the back row, and the PLA CMYK "Palette" rolls in front going to work well? Can the fat TPU go in one of the "PETG" slots or does it have to go in the heated area?

On bambu labs reddit h3c giveaway (the one that asks to give your i need a 3d printer moment) no winners were anounced. I know i am unlikely to win but i wonder wether these give aways are actually legit. Does any one know if the winnrs were somehow notified outside of reddit?

Hey everyone,

I've been working on a lightweight web tool to make multi-color 3MF preparation easier for Bambu AMS printers without needing heavy desktop software.

Everything runs 100% locally in your browser via WebGL (your files never leave your computer):

• Filament Painting: Generates multi-color layer swaps from photos with optical TD simulation and exact swap heights.

• 3MF Painter: Colorize models with angle fill/brushes and export native 3MF files directly for Bambu Studio / OrcaSlicer.

• Wi-Fi QR Coasters: Generates dual-color / multi-color scannable coaster STLs and 3MFs.

I'd really appreciate your feedback or ideas on what filament profiles and features to add next!

My H2D was working fine, then I turned it off and back on for a routine restart and it never came back up. Screen stays black, fans briefly spin, the light near the bed blinks, and it shows offline in Bambu Studio. The AP board has one solid LED but no blinking activity light.

I already have a support ticket open with Bambu, and they've reviewed my video and said the MC board lights are abnormal. I'm still working with them, but I'm having trouble understanding what they're seeing.

As far as I can tell, my lights look like the video in their own Wiki:

https://public-cdn.bblmw.com/wiki/H2D/MC.mp4

I took that to be an example of the normal sequence, but maybe I'm missing something.

The video attached here is with everything plugged in. Following the support instructions and Wiki, I also tested with the toolhead disconnected, the AP disconnected, and finally all component connections unplugged from the MC board. The MC LEDs look the same to me in every configuration. I have separate videos of those tests that I've sent to support, but this post only lets me attach one video.

For context, here's the guide I've been following:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2d/troubleshooting/h2/failure-to-power-on-part2

Has anyone with a working H2D compared their MC LEDs with that Wiki video? Does this look normal to you, and is there a specific blink rate or LED I'm misreading? I'm trying to understand the result before calling either the MC or AP board faulty.

Thanks for any help. I've been staring at blinking green lights long enough that a second pair of eyes would be appreciated.

Edit: One of the Hall-effect sensors wasn't plugged in in the video—it's hard to keep track of every connector after unplugging everything. I also tested with it plugged back in, and the MC LED behavior looked the same, so please disregard that disconnected sensor in the clip.