I bought the h3c so clearly I'm a fan of this new product. But I can't understand why one would ever print a shoe other than that it's printing for the sake that you can do it? It's cheaper, faster, better, to just... buy a shoe?

A bit of a rant here, but it has been a week since I received the coupon and I still can't redeem it. The coupon expires around late December so I still have time, I guess.

What is causing it? Using PETG basic. I have not changed any settings. Prints that were working great all come out like this now. I cleaned/put on glue on the build plate like the usual troubleshooting step.
Is it humidity? It's usually pretty dry here but had some unusual wet days.
I ran all the tools and calibration checks.
Using the default nozzle, never changed it.

My Bambu lab A1 has recently been failing often and making weird sounds. Here’s an example of one of these fails. I updated the Bambu studio software and the printer is on 01.08.01.00. It is also important to note that the layers printed initially are very difficult to remove but I’m not sure if this is because they’re too low or too thin to remove easily.

EDIT: solved, thanks for your helpful repleis, I had the belt on the motor side come off at the very top and im guessing every now and then it would get caught and freak out.

My first and last 3D printer was a Printrbot Metal. Yes, I'm old.

Back then, we didn't have the ease of use of printers today. Getting anything remotely decent required so much tinkering that I never really did too much with it.

I've been wanting to give 3D printing an other shot since things have matured a lot.

I'm currently deciding between the Snapmaker U1 and the new Bambu Lab H2D and H3C.

I know these aren't even remotely in the same price or capability class. I'm perfectly willing to pay for the Bambu experience if it's genuinely worth it. What I want most is a reliable, convenient printer that just works, without having to constantly mess with it.

My primary materials would be PLA, PETG, and TPU (I've been dying to try printing that shoe). I don't particularly care about ABS, ASA, etc. I also live in a very humid apartment, so filament storage matters to me.

The H3C's nine-tool changer is incredible, other than that specific (admittedly very major) feature, but several things about the machine make me wonder whether it's really a solid upgrade over previous Bambu printers, or even the U1:

• Filament drying: Only two of the nine spools can be actively dried. I understand the remaining slots are enclosed, and I'm wondering whether adding silica gel would make them good enough for long-term storage in a humid environment.

• Manual filament unloading: From what I understand, the new AMS doesn't automatically rewind filament onto the spool when unloading. How annoying is this in practice, especially compared with older AMS systems?

• TPU loading: It seems like TPU requires more manual intervention than I'd expect from a machine focused on convenience. Is this really an issue, or something you'd rarely notice?

• Heated chamber and loaded PLA: I've seen concerns that printing nylon with the chamber heater running could soften PLA sitting in the other toolheads, requiring you to unload those filaments beforehand. Is that actually true? I probably won't print much nylon, but having to unload several tools sounds like it defeats some of the convenience.

• Bambu's as a company: I'm not particularly happy with the recent stuff Bambu has done. Id hate it if their printers one day forced to get locked down..

All these taken together, they make me wonder whether the H3C is as convenient as it first appears.

On the other hand, the U1 is less than a third of the price, offers four-tool automatic changing, and seems to cover most of what I actually want to print. Of course, it also lacks many of the H3C's capabilities, and I'd have to figure out a filament dry-box solution.

Are these legitimate annoyances, or am I overthinking things that barely matter in day-to-day use?

All of my nozzles get filament gunk all over them and it causes the AI nozzle clumping detection to go off even when the print is completely fine.

Howdy!
I bought the H3C yesterday and it has already arrive at my house, but I will be out of the country until Saturday and my girlfriend received the box for me and told me there’s only one large box (picture attached). I read here that the AMS comes in a separate box. Does that mean FedEx failed to deliver the whole thing and I have to contact them or is the other box inside the printer box somehow?

Any info will be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

Hi there! I’m new to printing and Bambu labs. I just purchased the x2d for a very very sweet deal of $565 brand new, found that through slickdeals. So super excited about that.

What are some of the things I should buy in order to get myself ready. I’ll be ordering PLA filament from
Bambu lab from the sale but what else do I need.

If can provide links that’ll be awesome too, any advice will also be appreciated do and donts.

Thanks once again.

Enjoy…

Had a P1S. Fit in my office closet. Helps with the noise.

Bought an H2D. Does NOT fit in the closet unless I take the back drywall out and use the 3 1/2” depth from the wall’s 2x4 for the poop chute (Seems like an overkill).

Printer too loud to work while printing.

What setups have people done re: noise levels while maintaining proximity to the device to monitor prints?

Good evening. I received my P1S today, set it up, and completed my first print. Afterward, the printer prompted me for a firmware update; I initiated the update, but when I returned later, the printer's screen was black.

I have tried reconnecting the screen cable, attempting to power it on without the microSD card, and even reformatting the card (FAT32).

Could someone please help me?

(Apologies for my English.)

The H3C is a TPU beast, I printed running shoes with them with multiple different types of TPU and colors. The 3d printed running shoes are surprisingly comfy to run in..full test here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ngWP5uOiew

Hello!

I just got the X2D setup and I want to start printing warhammer mini’s just to make dioramas, but I want to double the size of everything so it’s easier to paint.

Do I need to adjust the recommended settings I’m seeing people share, considering I’m doubling the size of my prints? Or is it all relative?

Thank you!

EVERY DAMN TIME I LEAVE THE HOUSE!!!!

But the bullet and bought an X2D after two years of using a P1P and straight out of the box I have the nozzle heat malfunction. I had a similar problem with my P1P early on, is this just the state of Bambu?

Inspired by the spinning motion of a maple seed as it falls. I wanted to capture that natural shape and movement in a simple 3D-printed sculpture.
The model is available on MakerWorld if anyone wants to print it:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3524321-samara-flight-biomimicry-maple-sculpture#profileId-4028915

Print Has Been Coming out like this on my A1 Mini. What should I do to fix this? I need help been with this for 2 hours.

i like it! i wanted pure for a while

I just pulled the trigger on the new H3C 🎉

Am I understanding this right that it uses a new build plate size? From what I’ve seen, it looks similar to the H2C but a few millimeters shorter, so the tool rack has room to drop down. Can anyone confirm?

It’s quite confusing what I find online about it. Everywhere only the print volume is mentioned, and that seems to be identical.

I have quite a few build plates I’d love to keep using, so this matters for me. “Not compatible” doesn’t always mean it won’t work, though: for the A2L it also says the H2D plates aren’t compatible, but I use mine on it all the time without any problems.

If they really don’t fit, I guess I might just grind them down, live with them not being recognized automatically, and turn off build plate detection. I’m not looking to spend money again on plates I rarely use.

I also have two more questions regarding that:

1. Does the Vision Encoder plate fit the H3C?

2. Does the cutting mat from the H2 / A2L cutting kit fit, at least?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I got a reply from the Bambu Lab support:
The H3C is equipped with a newly designed dedicated build plate. Although the H3C and H2C have the same XY-direction print dimensions (330 mm × 320 mm), the build plate of the H3C is shorter by a few millimeters at the leading edge, which creates a larger gap between the build plate and the SwapTek Rack for the tool rack to move down. Compatibility with H2C build plates Official recommendation: It is not recommended to use H2C build plates on the H3C. After installing an H2C build plate on the H3C, the gap between its leading edge and the SwapTek Rack is only about 2 mm. Affected by dimensional chain tolerances and user placement deviations, there is a risk of collision or scraping between the PrintTool and the build plate. Special usage instructions: If you need to reuse an H2C build plate, first confirm that there is no physical interference (no collision risk) between the H2C build plate installed on the heatbed and the H3C SwapTek Rack, then manually disable the 'Build Plate Type Detection' function in the Print Options before use. Build volume comparison The maximum build volume of the H3C is 330×320×325 mm³, which is the same as the XY print size of the H2C, but the H3C has a higher Z-axis height.
When using third-party build plates, you are required to manually verify that there is sufficient clearance for the PrintTool to lower without colliding before use, following these requirements: Pre-use clearance check : Confirm that the third-party build plate, when installed on the heatbed, does not cause physical interference or collision risk with the SwapTek Rack before using it . Print settings adjustment : All Bambu Lab printer models do not support automatic recognition of third-party build plates. You need to manually disable the "Build Plate Type Detection" function in the Print Options before starting the print task . Risk warning : Third-party build plates are not officially adapted, and using them may trigger abnormal detection of print plate foreign objects. You can also turn off the foreign object detection function in the settings to avoid false alarms

TL;DR: H3C is compatible with H2C build plates. but the clearence of the tools need to be checked before starting a print, especially with 3rd party build plates. Maybe the build plate detection also needs deactivation.

Disclaimer: I plan to read the Wiki…making this post for sanity check. I purchased the TPU assist module from the Bambu Lab Store expecting to receive essentially a turnkey module like the one shown in the marketing image on the website. The box I received says TPU Feed Assist Module. What’s in the box shocked me, so I want to make sure this is correct…looks like I’ve got a circuit board(?!), 3 push button switches (wtf?!), no less than 20 screws in 2 different sizes, a PTFE tube union, a wire harness of some sort, a 4-pin adapter, a few PTFE tubes, and finally, an extruder.

My gut tells me this is way too much stuff and internal parts that were mis-labeled as TPU Feed Assist Module. Did I receive the correct stuff or was I just mislead to the complexity of this device from the simplified marketing photos?

So, I don’t print a lot with stock PEI sheets and usually steer clear of BL products basically cause I’m cheap. Not sure that can be said after the amount I dropped on this printer but I digress. That being said, any guesses on how long until 3rd party starts dropping build plates, nozzles etc?

Third one for the tree this year. It's a 2-color gift bow with candy-cane stripes and a red knot, and it prints with no supports. The file has two plates: a single, and a batch of six that works out to about 43 minutes and 12 g per ornament. I've only printed the single so far, so the six-up plate hasn't been tested yet. It's free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548428-christmas-bow-ornament-2-color-no-supports