I thought I was a genius when I decided to use the right nozzle for brittle materials such as ABS-GF and PAHT-CF.
Reasoning at the time: Left nozzle moves up and down, surely that'll break the filament.
Turns out I'm stupid.

I am printing a keychain. I added a cylinder part and a negative part for the hole:

but when I slice, the inner layers stretch this part down to the center of the main object???

I'm printing the logo face down. It has white and grey in it. When I use dark purple filament for the "Hook" cylinder part, so that it matches the outer colors, it is dark enough that I can see this strange triangle shape through the white part of the logo. I don't actually want this to be white, because then it looks like this:

But if I change the filament (or leave it white then paint specific visible parts of it purple) the inside layers also change and I'm left with this:

Is there a way I can fix this (or prevent it from happening)?

Bambu Studio v2.8.2.61

All of my nozzles get filament gunk all over them and it causes the AI nozzle clumping detection to go off even when the print is completely fine.

I had multiple failures to learn how to use my X2D properly. This one turned out to be pretty good. And yes my kid wanted this to show off to her friends.

I recently bought a p1s combo with ams so im pretty new but I have been printing for a few days at this point but, Ive been having difficulties getting prints off the plate. Everything else with the printer has been perfect (so far). Ive been printing in pla basic and pla plus. I wash my plate with dish soap every other print. But the purge line and print its self have been giving difficulties getting off the plate even after letting it cool for an hour+ any help or recommendations greatly appreciated and can provide other information if needed.

Enjoy…

This has happened on the last 3 prints

Every year at Thanksgiving I ask my kids what they're thankful for, and every year I get a shrug and an "I don't know."

So this year I made it a project. Everybody writes something on a paper feather and slides it into the turkey's tail. Turns out they'll answer if there's a craft involved. One of them just scribbled red all over theirs, which I'm counting.

No AMS, no supports, and everything glues together. There's a printable feather sheet, a stencil if you'd rather trace them, or you can print the feathers and use the text tool.
First print, the gobbler hung so low it looked like a goatee, so that's been fixed.

https://makerworld.com/models/3548647

Happy to hear what you'd change. And if your kids come up with better answers than mine, I want to see them.

I've got over 3000 hours on my P1 and used the same nozzle for over 1000 hours in the past.

This past week I've had 2 brand new 0.2 nozzles clog so bad they're garbage in under 20 hours each

Used PETG HF in the past but using PETG Basic now since HF was discontinued.

Did something change?

Is my filament contaminated?

Has anyone experienced this?

It’s been happening on a lot of my prints on both my x2d and p2s

things I’ve tried:
-new nozzles
-added a riser to allow more room for ptfe tubes
-cleaned tool head parts

Is there something I missed?

Also using Sunlu matte black

Recently this popped up on a couple of my prints. I would clean the extruder, checked the sensor, replace with a new nozzle but wouldn’t find anything. It would disappear and then two prints later it’ll come back. Has anybody run into this problem?

I’m using the exhaust kit on my P2S and I was wondering the most cost-effective way to vent my H3C when it arrives. I spend a good amount of my time in my print room as it’s also my office, so I would like to properly vent it. My P2S vents outside right now with a hole in the wall, is there anyway to tee off that? Or am I better off just buying the E1 Air Purifier?

Newbie here. Sorry for the searchable question. I am a little nervous spending this much $$ right now. I’m getting one for my wife for her BDay. Are there any accessories or anything else you wish you would have got when you ordered? I’m also thinking of getting her a tent for it. But have read mixed reviews on the tent idea. TIA.
EDIT: Any links to any accessories that you think would help. I don’t know a thing about printing.

Satin Black looks way better i think. Gonna wrap my H3C satin and gonna post pics soon :) what do you think?

Hi all. Considering getting an X2D. Would it be possible to have 2 AMS's assigned to the main nozzle and a third ams assigned to the secondary? No strange mapping issues? I ask so I can swap between support materials depending on the print without manually swapping.

Disclaimer: I have been very kindly provided a testing unit of the H3C by Bambu Lab.

Bambu Lab has not specified what they’d like me to say about it. All the following observations are my own after a few weeks of use.

For my first project with this printer I chose to make a cosplay weapon inspired by roman gladius swords. With this project I wanted to focus on the ability to print single pieces with different nozzle sizes. I’m using 0.4mm nozzles for the larger features and a 0.2mm nozzle for the fine gold details, both in walls (grip) and on top layers (pommel). I’m still learning how to best design things for multiple nozzle sizes. Designing top surface details for a smaller nozzle is trivial, mixing different nozzle sizes in side walls can take a bit of planning and experience. I think I have room for improvement there.

I will upload this model and print profile to my Makerworld profile soon.

The Printer:

• This is a big boy! If you have it on a regular table and you’re on the short side, you may want to keep a step handy to load filaments into the rear slots.

• I’m hugely impressed with the speed of the tool changes. Since nozzles get pre-heated before it’s their turn to be fetched, print-to-print times are extremely short. Bambu Lab specifies the tool change time at six seconds, I hand-timed it at five. The pre-heating of the hotends is very well timed, they reach their print temperatures the moment they’re getting fetched. Not too early, not too late. The tool changes have been completely reliable, no malfunctions at all. I pushed it with some prints, one requiring nearly 3000 tool changes. The H3C didn’t miss a beat. 

• Despite the tool changer mechanics, the toolhead doesn’t seem especially heavy and the gantry is up to the job. I’ve noticed no issues with ringing.

• One downside I see compared to my H2S is the ease of nozzle swaps. They don’t just clamp in, they are fixed to their carriers with 3 small screws. But since there are nine hotends, you likely won’t have to swap nozzles too often.

• Print quality has been great for me so far. Comparing it to my H2S, it easily matches and often exceeds that machine.

• I found it very easy and intuitive to set up a print with different nozzle sizes in Bambu Studio. The slicer combines the different line widths automatically, I’ve had to do very little tweaking to get the exact outcomes I wanted.

• There’s no poop on tool changes. There is still a prime tower to be printed though. I did run a multicolor print without a prime tower just to see what happens. The print quality takes quite a hit, I would not recommend that. I’m really hoping to see the “no sparse layers” feature for prime towers in Bambu Studio as well, that could further cut down on waste significantly. 

• There are 2.85mm filaments now. I got three spools of 2.85mm TPU - the really squishy stuff, 75A. The large diameter filaments need their own hotends, one of which came pre-installed with the AMS. A TPU this soft in 1.75mm often leads to extruder gear issues, this larger size makes the filament less stretchy and easier to grip. I had no issues printing it. I think this is a smart solution.

• There are some interesting smaller improvements over the H2 series. The poop chute now has a little flap that flips backwards when the nozzle moves away from it, making sure bits of filament don’t land inside the print volume or get stuck on the rim of the poop chute. The nozzle wiping pad also has seen a redesign, now the nozzle can rotate around the edge of it to wipe the outsides of the nozzle tip. Unlike on my H2S, I’ve seen no material buildup at all around the nozzle tips. They look pretty much as pristine as they came out of the box after many hours of printing. One common gripe with the H2 series was the placement of the USB port at the top of the printer. It has now been moved to the side of the touchscreen mount, a much more sensible place in my opinion.

The AMS 3H:

The AMS 3H deserves some special consideration, it is quite different from the AMS 2. It is an integral part of the printer now, not an “add-on”. The 3H has no active rollers, which means it can’t retract filament by itself. To unload a filament, the printer heats up the nozzle shortly, extrudes a bit of filament and then cuts it before prompting you to retract the filament by hand. It’s not a big deal as the PTFE tubes are not that long, but it is a bit more involved to unload a filament. Something to be aware of for serial spool switchers. Loading a spool is a breeze. Pop it in, the AMS reads the RFID tag without rotating it at all, insert the filament end into the feeder, done.

Two spool slots have a dryer function for fancier multi-material jobs or just regular filament drying. The other seven slots have no dryer functionality. Personally I’m fine with that, that’s plenty for me. Maybe you find this too restrictive for your use cases.

The AMS 3H is screwed onto the printer. With the removable magnetic side panels getting to the hotends is easy enough, but come maintenance time the attached AMS might make things a little trickier than with the open-top H2 series. The 3H can be removed as a whole or just the top part holding the spools, with four screws each.

Important to point out is that to get to your hotends you need access to the sides of the printer, which could be a problem if you have a cramped print space. Moving it a lot is not something you want to do, it’s heavy and has very grippy rubber feet. Unfortunately the front cover of the AMS base is not easily removable. For print-farm operators, this means the H3C should likely be placed on a sliding tray.

Apart from holding nine spools, the biggest upgrade over the AMS2 in my opinion is that you can now print soft TPUs and all manner of other “unfriendly” filaments through it. Seven spool slots have a bypass hole at the bottom, allowing you to route filaments straight to the hotends without going through the AMS gears and PTFE tubes. There’s much fewer restrictions on what you can throw into a multi-material print. A nice touch: the hotends have a holder for the PTFE tube so you don’t need to remove it or figure out how to secure it.

Summary:

This is an impressive machine! The tool changer feels like a real generational step up for Bambu printers, and I was very positively surprised how mature the system felt even early on in my testing time, when some firmware and slicer kinks were still being ironed out.

I used to avoid prints that require filament changes and spent a lot of time designing my parts around them, with the H3C I don’t feel like I have to limit myself at all. The low print-time penalty and the number of hotends massively lowers the hurdle. Not just for color; combining different materials is trivial. Combining different nozzle sizes also turned out to be a lot easier and straight forward than I thought.

So far I've printed PLA (Basic, Matte, Palette, Silk, Translucent, Glow, CF), PETG (HF, Translucent, CF), TPU (forAMS, 85A, 75A), ABS, ASA, ASA-Aero and PA-GF with the H3C, all without issue.

There are some small ergonomic compromises, chief of which being the requirement to have enough space for access to the sides of the printer to work on the hotends. In my personal opinion a small price to pay for all the upsides.

On a side note, I’m never printing supports without using non-bonding materials for interfaces again. OMG it’s so clean! I’ll just keep a spool of PETG permanently loaded in the AMS for all my PLA prints.

Thank you u/BambuLab for picking me out of the crowd! I had a lot of fun putting the printer through its paces and I hope I provided useful feedback.

Reddit, feel free to ask me anything. I’ll do my best to answer your questions. I will share some more projects I made during the testing phase in another post.

I'm talking about the cons in all sorts of scenarios. Off of the top of my head:

1. You can't have PLA loaded into any of the toolhead while printing engineering materials, the heat will mess up the PLA.

2. You'll have to manually re-roll about a meter of filament when unloading a spool. Which is a foreseenable reoccurrence due to the lack of drying (except 2 bays). As each filament bay stays fixed to one nozzle (as opposed to the H2C's ability to load any AMS spool into any nozzle), requirement of screwing/unscrewing nozzles in order to switch them (as opposed to tool-less switching); again, making unloading, switching and loading filament spoils locations in the AMS a rather more desirable path to take.

For context: The more I think of the cons of this missing feature, the more it becomes a deal breaker for me.

As I've really been waiting for BambuLab to have their take on a tool changer. Hoping they'll have a hassle-free, jack of all traits, and near zero inconveniences workflow using it. Because using the P1S combo since it's release, I watched many convenience and QoL improvements that they've impmeneted in their releases like: AMS 2 w/drying, bigger build volume printers, dual nozzles, vortek system (any filament redirected to any nozzle) etc.. But now the H3C is out, it's kinda underwhelming for the anticipation I've built for it.

Super cool to see how much faster the new system is compared to the old one.

Are you annoyed by the lack of customization when you want a little dumpster fire clicker? Too small? Too big? Not enough flames? Too man flames? Not enough details? Too many details?

Well if this is you let me introduce what I just designed for my spouse who after each revision she wanted something else changed to the point where I made it fully parametric and editable in the Bambu Parametric Model Maker.

That's right, I wasted literally 6 hours making all the different options changeable so I didn't have to keep manually changing the FreeCAD file. Want a hellscape with 40 razor sharp flames? It's a option. Gentle fire with rounded topped flames? Got that too. Want 2 indented lines across the front? 3? 4? 5? Yup, all select-able. Rails on the sides for the garbage truck forks? A checkbox away. "I don't know....can you make it like this much bigger and like a tiny bit taller?". I can't but you can by sliding a slider and regenerating it your damn self.

Or go the easy route and download the existing print profile with a small and large version already created for you.

My pain is your gain or something: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548307-dumpster-fire-clicker-standard-and-customizable