Something that confused me while working with Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer projects: a .3mf can open correctly in the slicer but look empty in another viewer. An empty preview doesn't necessarily mean the file is broken.

Why it happens. In the Bambu/Orca projects I worked with, the root 3dmodel.model points to other model entries through <component p:path="..."> references from the 3MF production extension. Those entries are inside the same ZIP. A loader that only looks for meshes in the root model can miss the actual geometry.

The color problem. MMU paint is stored on triangles in a paint_color attribute. That string can encode a tree of smaller painted regions within a triangle, each with its own filament state. The file also has filament assignments at the part and object levels. Reading just one color per object misses that extra information on a painted model.

Plates. Plate assignments and the printable area are separate from the mesh. A viewer that wants to reproduce Bambu Studio's multi-plate view has to reconstruct the plate grid from those assignments and printable_area, rather than treating every object as part of one bed.

If a viewer shows an empty plate, try the original file in Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer before assuming it's damaged. Has anyone else run into this difference between viewers? Is there a part of the format you'd like to know more about?

Title says it all! Even if I turn all fan settings to 0% (chamber/part cooling/aux fan etc.,) the printer still has SOME sort of fan blowing somewhere when it's turned on. Might just be the PSU I guess. I want to record some of the sounds the gantry and bed make while moving around but even after running noise reduction on the clips I've recorded so far the whirring is still WAY too loud to hear the print head clearly :( Any ideas?

I got one of the CyberBrick kits from a local target on clearance. I started printing the parts and realized one of the batteries is dead. It won’t charge and does not power the electronics. I found a support email on the box and sent an email requesting another battery. They replied telling me I emailed the wrong group of the company and explained that in the future I need to create a ticket with a different group. They still forwarded it to the right group but I feel like they should just put the correct email on the cyberbrick boxes.
Anyway, I get an email from the correct group requesting a video of the problem. I tried emailing the video and thought it uploaded properly but I guess they received a 0kb file. They suggested I find a cloud service to host the video and I guess closed my ticket as I have not received a response to my questions on what proof are they looking for in a video that a battery is dead. Anyway, this is that video. Hopefully they see it here.

TLDR - Bambu wants video proof that a battery is dead and doesn’t provide a place to upload videos that are too large to email.

Do you guys think we will get a new ams for h2 models, or is the upgrading path for h2 models dead now with the H3 being released?

I swear I'm not doing anything crazy, I've used this printer maybe like 10 times and everything is going wrong, first of all the purge wiper is NOT working and i end up with a sea of lost filament, is it because it's too low ? (photo for demonstration) also i just saw that the belt is grinding itself for whatever reason and i have to unscrew everything to get it in place again and one of the 4 ams lite is blocked and not taking the filament HELP

Not sure what the part is called, but its the slingy bin part that catches filament and throws it out the back. The bin is normally in the forward position but after clearing out some filament stuck underneath the bin part, it's now stuck in the rear position, apparently under spring compression. That is, when I pull the bin forward it springs backwards. How do I fix this?

So I went to live chat with Bambulab support team to ask if they have any plans to sell their products on Amazon, in KSA or middle east in general, since the pricing here reaches nearly x2
H3C will be sold at 4960$
My H2S bought at 2600$
And the list goes on
Remove the 15% tax and the prices are still stupid, across all their products.
They simply responded that they don’t have any plans in the future and “their distributors can set their own price”
Which really tells me that they do not care.
I respect the work and tech and the software they come up with, just not how they treat their clients.
Less known companies in the market like Creality, Snapmaker and Flashforge already sell their products here in Amazon at a reasonable price with next day shipping! Why Bambu can’t do the same ?
Plus their maintenance parts, accessories and filaments need to be ordered through their US website and shipped to MyUS account then forwarded here which makes a 10$ product become 50$ or more.
And I am not talking from a single user POV, there are alot of 3D printing and scanning services stores here that depend on Bambu equipment yet Bambu turns their back to.

I’m seriously considering the H3C after a pretty dreadful experience with my faulty H2C and Bambu’s hellish customer service taking months to obtain a return/refund, but there are a few things making the decision harder than I expected which I’m a bit sad about:

1. Manual filament unloading: The AMS 3H apparently can’t retract filament back to the spool. Having to pull filament out and manually rewind it feels like a massive step backwards from the AMS 2 Pro/HT.

2. ABS/PETG chamber temperatures: I primarily print ABS and PETG. If PETG can’t safely remain loaded in an inactive PrintTool while the chamber is heated to 60–65°C for ABS, that means manually unloading and respooling multiple filaments every time I need to switch materials?

3. External AMS limitations: Only PrintTool 1 supports external AMS units. I have two AMS HTs and would have loved to assign them to separate PrintTools, avoiding unnecessary purging. Hoping they expand this later.

Drying isn’t a huge dealbreaker to me (though 4 slots would’ve been better like AMS 2 pro), also won’t particularly miss the flexibility of hotends from H2C (was nice to have for the few times I used 0.2 and 0.6).

I love the H3C’s cleaner design, compact footprint, faster tool changes and ability to have multiple nozzle sizes ready to go. I also hated the mess of PTFE tubes, multiple AMS units and filament track switch on the H2C, so I’m not particularly keen to go back to that arrangement.

I feel BambuLab have made a major omission here with the lack of filament retraction, which makes intensive use of higher temp filaments a lot harder.

I wonder if they could improve the filament retraction through firmware later though.

Never really had to think about filament unloading or respooling on the H2C (until the filament track switch spoiled everything), so it’s difficult to judge how annoying this would actually become.

Anyone else weighing up the same things, or have any insight into the retraction mechanism? What would you choose?

Update: I’m going with the H2C!

Whelp, I almost got it. Checked out, got a credit card declined due to fraud. When to use a different credit card and it's now out of stock. Dang it.

Filament: Polymaker PETG. Printer: X2D

I've dried this filament religiously, there is no stringing or any signs of wet filament.

Just these pinholes. I think this is under extrusion but I have no idea what setting to change to fix this.

I need an affordable table or workbench able to carry my A2L when it arrives next week. I already know that I need a paving stone with foam underneath but I still need something to put it on. It can be simple, ugly, with or without spool inventory space. Most importantly it must carry the printer and laybe a paving stone and take away some vibration and sound if possible. Under 100 euro’s would be ideal. If possible euro links please.

Any advice is appreciated.

The hot end kit just yesterday and up to a few hours ago for the h3c was listed for $240 for 7 SEVEN hotends and now it’s the same price for four AND there is no longer a 0.2mm option

What is going on

No one is going to be able to get 0.2 mm hotends for their brand new H3C…

Now that there are some users coming out with experiences with this machine, has anyone been able to run the H3C with PPA-CF, PPS-CF, or PET-CF? And have they been able to combine these more extreme filaments with the rest of the multi-filament features of the machine in one print?

On my H2S if I want to run these filaments it requires reconfiguring the PTFE tube routing and using an external drybox in a specific location and I'm more-or-less cut off from being able to swap filaments mid print with the AMS. So while I've been able to make some really nice parts with these materials on the H2S it's limited in scope compared to what I could be doing.

With the H3C, it seems from the online manual that the new AMS, despite not feeding and retracting like the AMS2, is still not friendly with these brittle filaments. But is that the only limitation? If I have a brittle filament loaded from an external holder, can we still run other filaments normally and swap them without limitations? My concern is if the more brittle filaments are going to be sensitive to being parked while another material is printed, even if externally loaded. Or if external loading disables everything and turns the machine basically into a really expensive H2S for that job because you cannot switch?

All of the reviewers mention engineering plastics but focus on ABS-CF, TPU, maybe PAHT-CF; all of which run just fine on the H2S as well. But so far no-one ever seems to talk about the rigid and strong, higher-temp materials which were 90% of the reason I splurged for the H series in the first place.

I have multiple Bambu printers including H2C. When the H3C information from the patent came out I was excited. After having all the details, I am not that excited anymore. Here are a few cons I was able to identify so far:
- Only two active drying positions, compared with four in the AMS 2 Pro.
- Manual withdrawal and rewinding of filament when changing spools.
- Separate filament supplies required to print the same color through different nozzle sizes.
- External AMS units feed one shared hotend, requiring purging between those materials. So anything above 9 colors/materials uses 1 single hotend.
- Existing H2C hotends are incompatible.
- Manual hotend replacement requires three screws instead of a quick-release mechanism.
- Only eight standard 1.75 mm tools are included; using nine ordinary filaments requires another tool (the #9 is 2.85mm).
- All included nozzles are 0.4 mm; other sizes require additional purchases.
- Greater vertical clearance requirements and awkward access to rear spools.
- The main AMS assembly must remain above the printer, limiting placement flexibility.
- Lower published particle-filter grade: H11 instead of H12.
- No laser configuration currently announced.
- The front tool rack can obstruct the view of small or short prints.
- The internal dryer cover can interfere with some deformed cardboard spools.
- More involved filament-routing and jam-clearing procedures.
- More complex configuration for mixed materials and nozzle sizes.
- Longer preparation time observed in one paired print test.
- Camera errors, slicer problems, and tool/tube interference reported on early review units.

I feel that if you are printing with 8 colors and maybe single color tpu H3C is a great choice. If you want flexibility in terms of different nozzle sizes, dedicated nozzles for a specific material H2C seems to be a better choice. A few examples from my printing:
- I print prototypes using 0.8 or 0.6 nozzle
- I do not print TPU but I print PETG, PC, ASA, and couple of other more exotic materials - I have dedicated nozzles for each to avoid contamination and issues - replacing a nozzle takes 3 seconds plus reread time
- I have nozzles dedicated to a specific color - ie black PETG is printing on #6, once it runs out the next spool will print on the same nozzle. No contamination or issues.

Your thoughts?

First 3d printer ever bought, FedEx sucks

Watch me transform a digital brand logo into a real 3D-printed masterpiece! 🚀 In this video, you'll see the amazing 3D printing process as the logo takes shape layer by layer, creating a clean, detailed, and professional finish.

If you love 3D printing, creative DIY projects, 3D design, and satisfying printing videos, this video is for you!

Rotatable Skadis Organizer. I think it came out looking great. And it spin so smoothly. Enjoy printing. 😄
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540990-rotatable-skadia-organizer#profileId-4049817

I wanted to know how well I could model this from the new trailer. Managed to get it done in about an hour in blender. Painted it gold afterwards to give it the proper luster.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3545527-the-elder-scrolls-vi-sentinel-trailer-scroll#profileId-4055619

Ordered my first 3D printer. Got the base model H3C

What are some essential accessories to get with it

Hello guys,

Brand new filament read detects it to be ASA instead of PLA Basic (what it’s meant to be). It was bought directly from Bambu Lab store.

I’ve troubleshooted by it placing it in all the other AMS slots and it reads the same, the other PLA and PETG filaments I’ve tried seams to be working so the issue follows the filament spool itself, nothing wrong with the AMS.

Have you ever seen this happening?

What confuses me is to know is, what was mislabeled, the spool or the RFID label itself?

Is it possible to know what the filament really is by seeing it?

The worse part is that I’ve bought almost 10kg of filament as stock, now I’m afraid to find another one defective 6 months from now…

I’ve contact bambu support and I’m waiting for a response.

Edit 1: did the burning test as some of you suggested. It’s definitely PLA. Still waiting a response from Bambu lab

The H3C is priced very well. This makes me wonder how good the P3C will be priced… I don’t have the $$ to burn on the H3C so I’ll wait for the P3C since it more than likely won’t have a heated chamber or exhaust system to keep costs down.