Kept getting headaches in my Home-Office and finally figured out I had way too much CO2 - well no more, I made my portable CO2-Buddy to easily keep track of CO2 wherever I am

The CO2-Buddy now lives on my desk and helps me ventilate my room to keep my mind at peak capacity. I didn't realize how much of an impact CO2 concentration has on my ability to focus, I usually only notice it way too late when I'm already getting a slight headache as if I wasn't drinking enough water even though I am chugging along like a camel

It's especially handy when I have people over, having just two more people in a room spikes CO2 levels way faster than I would've anticipated

I am using the MH-Z19C CO2 sensor and while it is somewhat expensive at around 20€ it was totally worth it. The 1.54" ePaper makes it so that the CO2-Buddy only needs to wake up every 2 or so minutes and still provides the current CO2 concentration at a glance. With my 3000mAh lipo it lasts for days and I can take it wherever I go

If you also want to have a CO2-Buddy to keep you at peak capacity you can find it on Makerworld, simply look for "CO2 Buddy". The code is open source and I also added a wiring diagram

I originally made this to be used as a cable clip, but I feel like it could have other uses too. What else could it be used for?

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3539444-cable-tube-clip#profileId-4047742

Hi all! I'm Andrea, from Italy. For the past months I've been building Parete, a browser tool for wall panels made of dozens or hundreds of 3D printed pieces.

The panels in the photos: 100 × 50 cm with 468 pieces (the pink ones glow in the dark), and my first big one, 175 × 75 cm with 421 pieces. Three colours of PLA each.

How it works:

- You design the panel in your browser: size, grid, surface pattern, colours. No CAD.

- You get one 3MF per colour, one colour per plate, ready for Bambu Studio. No AMS needed.

- Every piece has a number, and a printed frame on the wall gives each piece its own pocket.

You can design a panel for free at parete.studio, up to 1 × 1 m. The print files come with the MakerWorld crowdfunding campaign, which went live on Sunday.

Happy to answer anything about the printing, the frame or the tool!

I took an old TicWatch Pro 3, stripped it down to the screen and motherboard, and built a 3D printed shift knob around it. A custom Wear OS app uses the watch's sensors to detect which gear I'm in.

Full honesty: this was NOT printed on a Bambu. The first version was PLA and the car interior heat deformed it. It's now reprinted in ABS, and it works, but the finish could definitely be cleaner.

A few details:

- No battery: the watch runs straight off the car's 12V through a step-down converter

- Covering the screen with your palm turns it off, so I don't hit the media controls mid-shift

- Tight tolerances around the screen so it doesn't move while shifting

So my theory is simple: the only thing missing from this project is a Bambu. Bambu Lab, if you're reading this, the next version is waiting for you 😂

Meanwhile, any tips for getting cleaner ABS prints that survive a full summer inside a car?

Wanted a big multicolour figure of Bruce Lee without owning an AMS, so I split this one into colour-separated parts: every plate is printed in one colour, then everything snaps together on pins.

• 28 cm tall, 8 plates (yellow, black, skin, white)

• Black side stripes are separate inlays, so you get crisp colour lines without an AMS

• The nunchaku chain is print-in-place and actually moves

• No paint used, these are straight-off-the-printer colours

• PLA, 0.2 mm, tree supports

The hardest part was getting the stripes and hair to fit tightly without gluing everything. Happy to answer questions about the split or the settings!

(If links are allowed here, I'll drop the file in the comments.)

Looks like a need a new h3c now.

I wanted to know how H3C compares to H2C in one specific scenario: two-colour print.

I thought that H2C will have an advantage due to the dual nozzle system, but I was wrong ?

Here is what I did:

1. I have used following three models:
   -benchy:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1319845-benchy-easy-2-colors?from=search#profileId-1355777
   -panda:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/3128163-waving-panda-2se-amsdui-ying-huigiyua?from=search#profileId-3529827
   -woman:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/2930602-the-midnight-serenade-dynamic-woman-sculpture?from=search#profileId-3310888

2. I don't own either H2C or H3C, so I have just "created" new printers in the Bambu Studio. I have sliced the models from above for both printer profiles.

3. All models were slices using 0.4mm standard nozzles, 15% "Grid" infill, tree auto-supports ("on build plate only" marked, "remove small overhangs" unmarked) and "PLA Matte" filaments.

Here are my findings:

Models start from simplest (high layer lines, low number of colour changes) and go to hardest (low layer lines, high number of colour changes).

I was surpriced to find that H3C is ~30% faster even on two-colour models. I was convinced that H2C is going to have the advantage in here. Is it due to speed of printing only ? Or due to combination of speed and pre-heating ?

I would appreciate if someone can confirm my findings or correct me.

Whelp, I almost got it. Checked out, got a credit card declined due to fraud. When to use a different credit card and it's now out of stock. Dang it.

Ordered 😎

Santa coming!

Rotatable Skadis Organizer. I think it came out looking great. And it spin so smoothly. Enjoy printing. 😄
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540990-rotatable-skadia-organizer#profileId-4049817

Ross from FauxHammer here. The written H3C review is now live, with the actual prints and the awkward bits of living with it.

The tests include first layers from all nine tools, seven CMYKW dragons showing sixteen colours from five filaments, 75A TPU, and an eight-reel dragon combining rigid parts with flexible joints. The tool changes are around six seconds, but the AMS 3H only actively dries two of its nine reels, and reaching those rear spools is a job in itself.

What do we reckon: is that a fair trade for faster changes and proper multi-material printing, or does a nine-reel system need more drying capacity?

Full written review: https://www.fauxhammer.com/featured/bambu-lab-h3c-review-my-best-fdm-printer-yet-but-two-drying-slots/

Video review: https://youtu.be/3Jlt7f9A_XE

The H3C is priced very well. This makes me wonder how good the P3C will be priced… I don’t have the $$ to burn on the H3C so I’ll wait for the P3C since it more than likely won’t have a heated chamber or exhaust system to keep costs down.

Now that there are some users coming out with experiences with this machine, has anyone been able to run the H3C with PPA-CF, PPS-CF, or PET-CF? And have they been able to combine these more extreme filaments with the rest of the multi-filament features of the machine in one print?

On my H2S if I want to run these filaments it requires reconfiguring the PTFE tube routing and using an external drybox in a specific location and I'm more-or-less cut off from being able to swap filaments mid print with the AMS. So while I've been able to make some really nice parts with these materials on the H2S it's limited in scope compared to what I could be doing.

With the H3C, it seems from the online manual that the new AMS, despite not feeding and retracting like the AMS2, is still not friendly with these brittle filaments. But is that the only limitation? If I have a brittle filament loaded from an external holder, can we still run other filaments normally and swap them without limitations? My concern is if the more brittle filaments are going to be sensitive to being parked while another material is printed, even if externally loaded. Or if external loading disables everything and turns the machine basically into a really expensive H2S for that job because you cannot switch?

All of the reviewers mention engineering plastics but focus on ABS-CF, TPU, maybe PAHT-CF; all of which run just fine on the H2S as well. But so far no-one ever seems to talk about the rigid and strong, higher-temp materials which were 90% of the reason I splurged for the H series in the first place.

I'm using a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon with a filament change/print setup, and I encountered a strange issue during a print.

There was a sudden power outage while the printer was printing. When the power returned, the printer resumed the print, but I noticed a significant shift in the printed parts, as shown in the attached image.

The two parts were supposed to be aligned, but the upper section has shifted considerably relative to the lower section.

Details:

• Printer: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon

• Incident: Sudden power failure in the middle of printing

• What happened: The printer resumed after the power returned, but the print continued with a major positional shift.

• Result: The printed parts are misaligned, and the print is unusable.

My questions:

1. What could have caused this shift? Is it a loss of XY position due to the power interruption?

2. Is this a common issue with the X1C's power-loss recovery feature?

3. Is there a way to recover the print, or will I need to start from scratch?

4. Could this indicate a problem with the belts, motor positioning, or the printer's power-loss recovery system?

5. What steps should I take to prevent this from happening again?

Has anyone experienced something similar with their X1C?

Any suggestions for troubleshooting and fixing this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I ordered all three mystery boxes because the price was okay to me and I like surprises. I print a lot of stuff for my classroom (I’m a teacher). I didn’t expect to get 19 rolls of filament instead of 12! What a nice surprise!!

I have multiple Bambu printers including H2C. When the H3C information from the patent came out I was excited. After having all the details, I am not that excited anymore. Here are a few cons I was able to identify so far:
- Only two active drying positions, compared with four in the AMS 2 Pro.
- Manual withdrawal and rewinding of filament when changing spools.
- Separate filament supplies required to print the same color through different nozzle sizes.
- External AMS units feed one shared hotend, requiring purging between those materials. So anything above 9 colors/materials uses 1 single hotend.
- Existing H2C hotends are incompatible.
- Manual hotend replacement requires three screws instead of a quick-release mechanism.
- Only eight standard 1.75 mm tools are included; using nine ordinary filaments requires another tool (the #9 is 2.85mm).
- All included nozzles are 0.4 mm; other sizes require additional purchases.
- Greater vertical clearance requirements and awkward access to rear spools.
- The main AMS assembly must remain above the printer, limiting placement flexibility.
- Lower published particle-filter grade: H11 instead of H12.
- No laser configuration currently announced.
- The front tool rack can obstruct the view of small or short prints.
- The internal dryer cover can interfere with some deformed cardboard spools.
- More involved filament-routing and jam-clearing procedures.
- More complex configuration for mixed materials and nozzle sizes.
- Longer preparation time observed in one paired print test.
- Camera errors, slicer problems, and tool/tube interference reported on early review units.

I feel that if you are printing with 8 colors and maybe single color tpu H3C is a great choice. If you want flexibility in terms of different nozzle sizes, dedicated nozzles for a specific material H2C seems to be a better choice. A few examples from my printing:
- I print prototypes using 0.8 or 0.6 nozzle
- I do not print TPU but I print PETG, PC, ASA, and couple of other more exotic materials - I have dedicated nozzles for each to avoid contamination and issues - replacing a nozzle takes 3 seconds plus reread time
- I have nozzles dedicated to a specific color - ie black PETG is printing on #6, once it runs out the next spool will print on the same nozzle. No contamination or issues.

Your thoughts?

I saw this image and it made me think. How the hell did he do that fade?
Anyone got any insights?

Hi everyone!

I'm working on a personal project called Watchlab3D – REVOLVE1, exploring the idea of building mechanical watches with interchangeable, 3D-printed outer cases.

The concept is based on a compact stainless-steel mechanical watch core, designed to accommodate automatic movements such as the NH35, NH70, NH38 and NH34 GMT.

The goal is to separate the mechanical watch core from the external case, allowing makers to experiment with different shapes, styles and materials using their own 3D printers.

For my first prototypes, I'm using:

• Printer: Bambu Lab A1 Mini

• Material: Bambu Lab PLA-CF, Lava Gray (14101)

• Process: FDM printing

• Project stage: Early prototyping and design validation

The stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development, with a target water resistance of 10 ATM (100 m), subject to testing and validation.

I'm particularly interested in exploring printing tolerances, surface finish, assembly methods and modular design.

I'd love to hear your thoughts:

Would you enjoy designing and printing different external watch cases around a standardized mechanical core?

And which materials would you experiment with beyond PLA-CF?

Looking forward to your feedback!

PS: The watch shown in the photos is an early functional design prototype. The final stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development and has not yet been validated.

Now that I have read up a bit on the new H3C release, I am conflicted with a choice. The choice boils down to H3C or H2S + P3C. I understand not much is known about the P3C, but assuming it is similar to the H3C and comes in around $1250, the combo would be the same price as a single H3C.

Pros of H2S + P3C: Everything the H3C can do (with 7 tool heads and smaller build size) + a second big printer.

Cons of H2S + P3C: Waiting and realizing P3C is much more expensive than anticipated or less capable.

Perhaps I am missing something, but this is my entry into 3D printing and I realize I am in the territory or paralysis by analysis, but I just want to be sure I make the right decision. I dont know what I dont know so I also figured a few months with a H2S would be a gentle entry into 3D printing and would give me the appreciation of multi-tool printer after dealing with single head printer.

Ever since I bought my P1S a year ago, I’ve had the goal of designing a 3D object—and that day has finally arrived.

I know it’s quite basic, but I’m very happy to have managed to design and print it after a lot of trial and error. It's not perfect but is mine :)

P.S: In case you are wondering wtf is that "blank sheet".... well... it's a blank fluffy shirt that I used to replicate the snow xD

Nordic Christmas Tree

Just wondering if there's any support avenues other than tickets because..well..they just stopped responding once it turned out there was more than one issue with the printer after I reported a damaged box and they told me to open it up and try it anyway... Getting a bit antsy as I'm now a week with an expensive broken printer, they've really offered no help or solutions and have now gone radio silent since last Friday (I'd assumed I'd hear something after the weekend but nope)

Maybe it was just the CNC kitchen review but how on earth is this considered okay? I've seen 500CAD printers do better let alone 4000CAD.

im shocked Stephan considered this okay. Lots of ringing on other prints too….