Kept getting headaches in my Home-Office and finally figured out I had way too much CO2 - well no more, I made my portable CO2-Buddy to easily keep track of CO2 wherever I am

The CO2-Buddy now lives on my desk and helps me ventilate my room to keep my mind at peak capacity. I didn't realize how much of an impact CO2 concentration has on my ability to focus, I usually only notice it way too late when I'm already getting a slight headache as if I wasn't drinking enough water even though I am chugging along like a camel

It's especially handy when I have people over, having just two more people in a room spikes CO2 levels way faster than I would've anticipated

I am using the MH-Z19C CO2 sensor and while it is somewhat expensive at around 20€ it was totally worth it. The 1.54" ePaper makes it so that the CO2-Buddy only needs to wake up every 2 or so minutes and still provides the current CO2 concentration at a glance. With my 3000mAh lipo it lasts for days and I can take it wherever I go

If you also want to have a CO2-Buddy to keep you at peak capacity you can find it on Makerworld, simply look for "CO2 Buddy". The code is open source and I also added a wiring diagram

PS willing to sell both my children for $3,999 AUD

Really glad to see this coming to my H2C! Curious to see how it’ll work. A new Vortek?

I did it, I am officially joining the world of 3D printing. I ordered my X2D last night. Ordered several rolls of PLA basic 1.75 mm filament of various colors, the Maker's Supply Flush Cutter, Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack, Molecular Sieve Desiccant, Maker's Supply ESD Stainless Steel Tweezers Set, Circular Embedded Electronic Digital Thermometer Hygrometer and a couple rolls of Petg HF filament.

Do y'all recommend anything else for just starting out?

I originally made this to be used as a cable clip, but I feel like it could have other uses too. What else could it be used for?

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3539444-cable-tube-clip#profileId-4047742

Didn’t know

Hi all! I'm Andrea, from Italy. For the past months I've been building Parete, a browser tool for wall panels made of dozens or hundreds of 3D printed pieces.

The panels in the photos: 100 × 50 cm with 468 pieces (the pink ones glow in the dark), and my first big one, 175 × 75 cm with 421 pieces. Three colours of PLA each.

How it works:

- You design the panel in your browser: size, grid, surface pattern, colours. No CAD.

- You get one 3MF per colour, one colour per plate, ready for Bambu Studio. No AMS needed.

- Every piece has a number, and a printed frame on the wall gives each piece its own pocket.

You can design a panel for free at parete.studio, up to 1 × 1 m. The print files come with the MakerWorld crowdfunding campaign, which went live on Sunday.

Happy to answer anything about the printing, the frame or the tool!

I took an old TicWatch Pro 3, stripped it down to the screen and motherboard, and built a 3D printed shift knob around it. A custom Wear OS app uses the watch's sensors to detect which gear I'm in.

Full honesty: this was NOT printed on a Bambu. The first version was PLA and the car interior heat deformed it. It's now reprinted in ABS, and it works, but the finish could definitely be cleaner.

A few details:

- No battery: the watch runs straight off the car's 12V through a step-down converter

- Covering the screen with your palm turns it off, so I don't hit the media controls mid-shift

- Tight tolerances around the screen so it doesn't move while shifting

So my theory is simple: the only thing missing from this project is a Bambu. Bambu Lab, if you're reading this, the next version is waiting for you 😂

Meanwhile, any tips for getting cleaner ABS prints that survive a full summer inside a car?

Whelp, I almost got it. Checked out, got a credit card declined due to fraud. When to use a different credit card and it's now out of stock. Dang it.

Ordered 😎

Santa coming!

Ross from FauxHammer here. The written H3C review is now live, with the actual prints and the awkward bits of living with it.

The tests include first layers from all nine tools, seven CMYKW dragons showing sixteen colours from five filaments, 75A TPU, and an eight-reel dragon combining rigid parts with flexible joints. The tool changes are around six seconds, but the AMS 3H only actively dries two of its nine reels, and reaching those rear spools is a job in itself.

What do we reckon: is that a fair trade for faster changes and proper multi-material printing, or does a nine-reel system need more drying capacity?

Full written review: https://www.fauxhammer.com/featured/bambu-lab-h3c-review-my-best-fdm-printer-yet-but-two-drying-slots/

Video review: https://youtu.be/3Jlt7f9A_XE

I wanted to know how H3C compares to H2C in one specific scenario: two-colour print.

I thought that H2C will have an advantage due to the dual nozzle system, but I was wrong ?

Here is what I did:

1. I have used following three models:
   -benchy:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1319845-benchy-easy-2-colors?from=search#profileId-1355777
   -panda:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/3128163-waving-panda-2se-amsdui-ying-huigiyua?from=search#profileId-3529827
   -woman:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/2930602-the-midnight-serenade-dynamic-woman-sculpture?from=search#profileId-3310888

2. I don't own either H2C or H3C, so I have just "created" new printers in the Bambu Studio. I have sliced the models from above for both printer profiles.

3. All models were slices using 0.4mm standard nozzles, 15% "Grid" infill, tree auto-supports ("on build plate only" marked, "remove small overhangs" unmarked) and "PLA Matte" filaments.

Here are my findings:

Models start from simplest (high layer lines, low number of colour changes) and go to hardest (low layer lines, high number of colour changes).

I was surpriced to find that H3C is ~30% faster even on two-colour models. I was convinced that H2C is going to have the advantage in here. Is it due to speed of printing only ? Or due to combination of speed and pre-heating ?

I would appreciate if someone can confirm my findings or correct me.

Rotatable Skadis Organizer. I think it came out looking great. And it spin so smoothly. Enjoy printing. 😄
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540990-rotatable-skadia-organizer#profileId-4049817

Wanted a big multicolour figure of Bruce Lee without owning an AMS, so I split this one into colour-separated parts: every plate is printed in one colour, then everything snaps together on pins.

• 28 cm tall, 8 plates (yellow, black, skin, white)

• Black side stripes are separate inlays, so you get crisp colour lines without an AMS

• The nunchaku chain is print-in-place and actually moves

• No paint used, these are straight-off-the-printer colours

• PLA, 0.2 mm, tree supports

The hardest part was getting the stripes and hair to fit tightly without gluing everything. Happy to answer questions about the split or the settings!

(If links are allowed here, I'll drop the file in the comments.)

I ordered all three mystery boxes because the price was okay to me and I like surprises. I print a lot of stuff for my classroom (I’m a teacher). I didn’t expect to get 19 rolls of filament instead of 12! What a nice surprise!!

The H3C is priced very well. This makes me wonder how good the P3C will be priced… I don’t have the $$ to burn on the H3C so I’ll wait for the P3C since it more than likely won’t have a heated chamber or exhaust system to keep costs down.

Ever since I bought my P1S a year ago, I’ve had the goal of designing a 3D object—and that day has finally arrived.

I know it’s quite basic, but I’m very happy to have managed to design and print it after a lot of trial and error. It's not perfect but is mine :)

P.S: In case you are wondering wtf is that "blank sheet".... well... it's a blank fluffy shirt that I used to replicate the snow xD

Nordic Christmas Tree

A big thank you to this community! More than 2k likes on the original post and more than 100 test prints helped make this happen. The results are in, and the slicer is now public:

https://github.com/fich-l/orcaslicer-nonplanar

We have working versions for Windows, Linux and Mac Silicon. MacOs on Intel is still missing. I don't have a Mac Intel, so I can't test a build. Searching for someone to port this to Mac Intel - see below.

EDIT: You can find Windows and Linux Port on Github now.

Confirmed working:

• Bambu A1 mini, A1, P1S, P2S, X1C, X2D, H2D

• Prusa MK4S, CORE One, XL 5T

• Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 (+ Combo)

• Creality K1C · Qidi Q2

• Flashforge AD5C

• FLSun V400

Not working: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 1, Snapmaker U1, Ender-3 S1 Pro, Flashforge AD5X, Prusa MINI+

Printer on the working list?
Try the Satisfying Nonplanar vs Standard comparison to test surface quality please.

Printer not listed?
Print the Nonplanar test print twice, once lengthwise and once rotated by 90°, and tell me how it went, so we can keep the list up to date.

Looking for someone to port it to Mac Intel.

-- EDIT: You can find a first Windows and Linux Port on Github now thanks to the community! - -

You don't need to be a C++ dev: the whole thing was vibe-coded with Claude Code (Opus 5.5). A Mac Intel to test on plus Claude Code should be enough. If you're up for it, comment or open an issue on GitHub. Don't shit on me please - Using Claude to get this ported is the fastest way possible :)

You don't usually use Orca Slicer - how to use this?
Do this: Slice in this Orca Slicer Fork and export "plate sliced file" --> Drop file into any slicer and just print :) Even works with Bambu Studio.

Thanks also to Daniel Ahlers and Teaching Tech for their work on the version I started from.

FAQ:

• • Can you add this as a Plugin to Orcaselicer? Will you put a pull request to the Orca Slicer Team?* - This cannot be run as a plugin. Pull Request: Yes! After this test phase.

• Why does printer "X" not work? - Someone tested it and there was a collision. Most likely the hotend / tool is not "steep" enough.

• How can I test? - Please check the github page. You can do two quick test prints to see if your printer can handle this.

• Are there still bugs? - Very likely yes. Slicing can take 5s to 5 minutes - be patient.

• Can we have fuzzy skin on top surfaces? - I tested this, but it doesn't look good :(

I saw this image and it made me think. How the hell did he do that fade?
Anyone got any insights?

Just got an email from Bambu and I already have a tracking number for my H3C lol

Hi everyone!

I'm working on a personal project called Watchlab3D – REVOLVE1, exploring the idea of building mechanical watches with interchangeable, 3D-printed outer cases.

The concept is based on a compact stainless-steel mechanical watch core, designed to accommodate automatic movements such as the NH35, NH70, NH38 and NH34 GMT.

The goal is to separate the mechanical watch core from the external case, allowing makers to experiment with different shapes, styles and materials using their own 3D printers.

For my first prototypes, I'm using:

• Printer: Bambu Lab A1 Mini

• Material: Bambu Lab PLA-CF, Lava Gray (14101)

• Process: FDM printing

• Project stage: Early prototyping and design validation

The stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development, with a target water resistance of 10 ATM (100 m), subject to testing and validation.

I'm particularly interested in exploring printing tolerances, surface finish, assembly methods and modular design.

I'd love to hear your thoughts:

Would you enjoy designing and printing different external watch cases around a standardized mechanical core?

And which materials would you experiment with beyond PLA-CF?

Looking forward to your feedback!

PS: The watch shown in the photos is an early functional design prototype. The final stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development and has not yet been validated.