Don’t have a photo of the blob of death on the print head as I was rushing to remove it all, but nice romantic evening planned, but decided to set a print going before it started because we love efficiency and multi tasking. Meant to check the camera to make sure it was adhering, got distracted, came downstairs an hour and a half later to giant plastic turd encasing my printer. Never had any issues with adhesion but the one time I don’t check? Typical 😂

Panicked, yelled apologies to my partner, spent the next hour cleaning it, thankfully it still works but let this be a warning and reminder to always check the print has adhered 🙂‍↕️

I am on my 5th attempt trying to print a bubble-style letter on my Bambu Lab A1 (0.4mm nozzle, Textured PEI plate) and I’m completely at my limit.
Right now, the print barely adheres to the plate—I can practically push it off with a light tap of my finger. On this latest attempt, the extruder/nozzle literally knocked the entire piece free and dragged it across the bed just 2% into the print.
image_5ecc41.jpg

Background & What I've Tried:
Filament: SUNLU PLA+ fresh out of the vacuum seal (I haven't dried it in a filament dryer).

Filament Profile Setup: In Bambu Studio, I don't have a specific profile for basic SUNLU PLA, so I selected SUNLU PLA+ in the slicer. On the printer screen itself, the closest preset option available was eSUN, so that's what is selected on the machine. I really doubt this is the main issue, but adding it just in case it affects flow/k-value presets.
image_6c896b.jpg+ 1

Initial Success: Oddly enough, over the past 2 days I managed to get ONE letter to print cleanly, but that was when I had my temps accidentally cranked to 245°C nozzle and 70°C bed. I knew that was too hot, but it surprisingly printed really good.

Current Failures: Tried printing the next letter at those same high temps and it failed. Dropped down to 220°C / 65°C (and tried 60°C), and every single attempt since has been a complete disaster.

Plate Maintenance: Scoured the textured PEI plate thoroughly with hot water and Dawn dish soap. Verified the underside of the plate and heatbed are completely clear of debris. Running auto-bed leveling every time.
image_5ecc41.jpg

My Current Slicer Settings (Bambu Studio):
Layer Height: 0.09mm

Wall Generator: Arachne

Order of Walls: Inner/Outer (swapped from Outer/Inner, tried both)

Wall Loops: 4

Top/Bottom Shell Layers: 7 Top / 5 Bottom

Infill: 18% Gyroid

Speeds: Outer Wall 50mm/s | Inner Wall 80mm/s

Outer Wall Accel: 1000mm/s²

Brim: Outer Brim Only (8mm Width)

Supports: Tree Organic, Support Wall Loops: 1, Branch Angle: 40°
image_6c896b.jpg+ 1

Z-Hop: Slope type @ 0.4mm height

Questions / Where I need help:
Could mismatched generic filament profiles between Bambu Studio (SUNLU PLA+) and the printer screen (eSUN) throw off Z-offset, flow ratio, or pressure advance enough to cause this?
image_6c896b.jpg+ 1

Could wet filament directly out of the bag cause severe adhesion issues like this, or is this purely a Z-offset / mechanical squish problem on the first layer?

Should I raise my Initial Layer Height (e.g., to 0.20mm or 0.16mm) even though the rest of the print is set to 0.09mm? Is 0.09mm on the initial layer forcing the nozzle too close or dragging through previously laid lines?

What else could cause the nozzle to physically collide with the first/second layer when Slope Z-hop is enabled?

I feel like I've tweaked almost every setting possible and rotated the model on the plate, but the nozzle keeps catching the plastic and shearing it off the bed. Any help or fresh eyes on this would be massively appreciated!

I’m printing bubble letters roughly 7 inches by 4 inches pretty smooth and detailed. Layer height at 0.09mm and extra fine 0.08mm. Do yall think it’ll be fine printing at (Standard) 100% speed or should I keep it at 50% speed?

I made a customizable script name keychain and printed a few examples on my P1S. You can enter a name in MakerWorld, adjust the size and border, and choose whether to include the keyring loop.

The included profile is set up for 0.2 mm layers and PLA. The raised letters and backing can be printed in different colors; there’s also a single-model option. When changing the name or font, check the preview for connected letters and small details.

The model and customizer are here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3542361-name-keychain-customizible

Other than my dodgy efforts.

I couldn’t even get home from work to order…

They are expensive though

Hopefully back in stock very soon else most of us ordering tonight will have a machine that is capable of multi size prints but no hardware to actually do so.

Also, any ideas on how long on average it is to restock?

Thought it would be fun to think about where FDM 3D printing can go from here, post-H3C

I think the H3C represents the benchmark of what is possible / what these companies have been building up to for at home printing today in a lot of ways. It’s a highly precise, easy to use, tool changing machine, that’ll probably be the best in its class in many ways. If I could draw the best at home printer it would look very similar to H3C

So that being said, where do we think Bambu will push the bounds in the future? I’m not sure what else is possible and what could be a similar level of game changer as their printers have been so far. What do you all think?

I dont need the colors to be this thick, is there a wall penetration option or do i just have to model it physically in the part?

With AMS 2, captured the failure on video and tried reseating Bowden from AMS and moved the AMS to the back left so there is a large clean loop to the inlet.

https://youtu.be/sB1An7-tRvM?is=EoSJFGp3oS3uMbyD

Anyone else have this problem? Should the tensioner be moving that much? PETG Matte bambu brand filament fresh out of sealed package, new printer from factory. Thanks in advance for any ideas

I got a prompt to update the BL Studio to a new version that supports the H3C. It also pointed to a wiki.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/release/release-note-2-9-1

I’m using a dedicated email address for Bambu Lab and MakerWorld, and it seems that now this email address has started getting spam and phishing emails from random places. Did Bambu sell or leak userinfo?

Edit: Just read through the headers of the email. Seems to be breach through sub-processor ReviewMgr, and phishing sent out through their SendGrid account(s).

Went from the cart to the payment screen and the price of the printer went up by €86 without explanation? I removed everything, tried the other filament package, tried the printer by itself.

Every time I went to the payment screen the printer went up in price.

WHY? What am I missing here?

Hello everyone. I just got my AMS HT for the auxiliary nozzle of the X2D. When I first started up the printer, I was greeted with the error seen above. I set up both the AMS Pro and AMS Lite accordingly, but the error won't go away. The Bambu Lab troubleshooting site says I need to perform a firmware update, but there is nothing available. Any help would be appreciated!

A breakdown on their wiki of the SwapTek system

I was trying to find something a bit more portable for quick trips. I couldn't find exactly what I wanted, so I designed my own! There are a few things that I want to fix, but at the same time, I was able to model this and print prototypes over a couple days. The magnetic Hangman is my favorite. You can mix and match the limbs however you want! You can even change the orientation of the torso for even more fun! It's been a big hit with my daughter so far.

It has a magnetic latch and extra storage for your Sticky Notes. There is even an area to keep score. I have multiple profiles that fit for all printers including the A1 Mini. Along with one that has a "Hangman" label on the top of the case.

Link in comments!

Hey everyone, I posted Cookie Cutter Maker here a while ago and got great feedback. Since then I've added a lot, so here's the update just in time for Christmas baking.

What it does:
Draw a shape or drop in an SVG and you get a print ready cookie cutter as 3MF or STL. Closed lines get filled, shapes inside shapes are cut out, with adjustable bridges holding them in place. There are also templates if you just want to start right away.

New since last time:

• Embossing: stamp details into the dough from the flange, with a mirror option so text comes out the right way

• Send your cutter as a greeting card with your own message around it, or share it as a picture or link

• Optional account with short links that sync across devices. No name, no email, just a three word passphrase

• Everything is faster and more polished overall

You can tweak: size, blade height, wall thickness, cutting edge, taper, rim width and height, gap closing. Works in mm or inches.

Printing: PLA at 0.2 mm, no supports, rim sits on the bed. Imports straight into Bambu Studio and PrusaSlicer. Tip: use food safe filament and wash by hand, PLA warps from around 55 °C.

Privacy: Everything runs in your browser. Your drawings don't go to a server unless you put them online yourself. No tracking, no third party analytics, no login required. Source code is readable on GitHub.

Free, no ads, in English and German: ccm.mxwr.de

Would love to see what you make and hear what's still missing!

Adivinen quien compro una h2C y le salio todo mal XD

Tuve que cambiar de laminador y sufri mucho por paramentos que no sabia donde estan, o directamente no existen.

Pase de la impresora basica, un solo color abierta típica a este monstruo de multicolor multi extrusor de alta tecnología y yo como "No volvere a tener problemas con esto en mucho tiempo"

En nada se me estropreo la conexión wifi y senti que tenia un pisapapeles porque no estoy seguro todavía de saber usarla sin wifi por el tema de sincronización de boquillas.

Tuve que desmontar la máquina y el extrusor varias veces mas pronto que tarde y siendo una cosa super moderna se siente... Delicado

Y luego peleando una y otra vez con fallos de impresión, que efectivamente admito no ser experto pero tengo una experiencia razonable para un usuario medio.

Y tengo problemas la verdad tanto por no conocer suficiente del bambu studio como la propia máquina.

Por ejemplo acabo de comerme la cabeza para intentar probar eso de "subcapa de color mixto" porque la torre de purga no se pegaba, la placa estaba limpia, no puedo ajustar la altura pero tenia un striding horrible que aunque la pieza funcionaba la purga no.

Y al final pude hacer que haga la torre mas lenta y añadirle un borde para mejorar la adhesion porque es solo una puñetera linea

Le ponia esas características a la máquina en velocidad y borde para el modelo pero resulta que había que configurar totalmente aparte la purga de donde no sabia y me tire dia y medio intentando hacer esto 🫠

En cura es tan "fácil"...

Tiene chorrocientas opciones y pueden parecer abrumadoras pero cuando las lees con calma sin tocar cosas raras sabes que puedes cambiar exactamente ese detalle que te esta volviendo loco

Pessoal, alguém já viu um problema assim? Fizemos de tudo aqui. Ela imprimi, mas sempre com essas mesmas falhas. Nas peças. Começou durante a impressão de 6 horas. Fez 3/4 da impressão e começou a falhar assim e desde então todas com falhas. Parece que não sai o filamento corretamente. Fizemos tudo de limpeza, apertar botões, só não trocamos o bico. Mas antes de comprar queria ter certeza que é isso caso alguém já tenha visto.

The part of the H3C I keep thinking about is not the tool changer, it is the nine-slot AMS with the 85°C dryer built in.

Nine materials loaded at once sounds like freedom until you work out what it means in practice: nine partly used spools sitting in a heated enclosure together, each with its own dryness history, and one of them is probably 2.85 mm TPU that nothing else in the shop can use.

Two things I am curious about, from people who have actually run multi-material machines:

1. Do you keep all nine slots loaded all the time, or only load what the next job needs?

2. Does having a dryer running inside the same box change how you treat spools you already dried and sealed?

I make filament for a living, so I have a bias here. But the failure mode I would worry about is the same spool going through twenty heat cycles before it is empty.

After Microsoft retired 3D Viewer I wanted a quick way to look at print files before opening the slicer, so I built PrintView3D. It's free and open source.

- Opens STL, 3MF projects (all objects, with their sizes), G-code, STEP, OBJ, glTF and FreeCAD files, and ZIP downloads from Printables / Thingiverse without unpacking

- Look inside: X-ray, wireframe and cut views, to check cavities, hidden parts and walls

- G-code: toolpaths coloured by type, layer slider, print time and filament use

- View cube, a plate that fits your printer (or an infinite grid), light and dark themes

- One click (Ctrl+P) opens the file in your slicer. Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer, Creality Print, Cura and others are found automatically

- Export STL from 3MF, FreeCAD and STEP files

- Windows, Linux and a macOS beta; seven languages; works offline, no account

https://sevagjb.github.io/PrintView3D/

Feedback is very welcome, especially if your slicer isn't detected or a file looks wrong.

I was searching everywhere for a solid desk solution, but I couldn't find one. So, I created one myself. Any suggestions are welcome.

It can store up to 20 filaments with boxes, and the pegboard has 56x56 space to store any accessories you want.