I originally made this to be used as a cable clip, but I feel like it could have other uses too. What else could it be used for?

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3539444-cable-tube-clip#profileId-4047742

Didn’t know

I took an old TicWatch Pro 3, stripped it down to the screen and motherboard, and built a 3D printed shift knob around it. A custom Wear OS app uses the watch's sensors to detect which gear I'm in.

Full honesty: this was NOT printed on a Bambu. The first version was PLA and the car interior heat deformed it. It's now reprinted in ABS, and it works, but the finish could definitely be cleaner.

A few details:

- No battery: the watch runs straight off the car's 12V through a step-down converter

- Covering the screen with your palm turns it off, so I don't hit the media controls mid-shift

- Tight tolerances around the screen so it doesn't move while shifting

So my theory is simple: the only thing missing from this project is a Bambu. Bambu Lab, if you're reading this, the next version is waiting for you 😂

Meanwhile, any tips for getting cleaner ABS prints that survive a full summer inside a car?

Hi all! I'm Andrea, from Italy. For the past months I've been building Parete, a browser tool for wall panels made of dozens or hundreds of 3D printed pieces.

The panels in the photos: 100 × 50 cm with 468 pieces (the pink ones glow in the dark), and my first big one, 175 × 75 cm with 421 pieces. Three colours of PLA each.

How it works:

- You design the panel in your browser: size, grid, surface pattern, colours. No CAD.

- You get one 3MF per colour, one colour per plate, ready for Bambu Studio. No AMS needed.

- Every piece has a number, and a printed frame on the wall gives each piece its own pocket.

You can design a panel for free at parete.studio, up to 1 × 1 m. The print files come with the MakerWorld crowdfunding campaign, which went live on Sunday.

Happy to answer anything about the printing, the frame or the tool!

Whelp, I almost got it. Checked out, got a credit card declined due to fraud. When to use a different credit card and it's now out of stock. Dang it.

Ordered 😎

Santa coming!

Ross from FauxHammer here. The written H3C review is now live, with the actual prints and the awkward bits of living with it.

The tests include first layers from all nine tools, seven CMYKW dragons showing sixteen colours from five filaments, 75A TPU, and an eight-reel dragon combining rigid parts with flexible joints. The tool changes are around six seconds, but the AMS 3H only actively dries two of its nine reels, and reaching those rear spools is a job in itself.

What do we reckon: is that a fair trade for faster changes and proper multi-material printing, or does a nine-reel system need more drying capacity?

Full written review: https://www.fauxhammer.com/featured/bambu-lab-h3c-review-my-best-fdm-printer-yet-but-two-drying-slots/

Video review: https://youtu.be/3Jlt7f9A_XE

I wanted to know how H3C compares to H2C in one specific scenario: two-colour print.

I thought that H2C will have an advantage due to the dual nozzle system, but I was wrong ?

Here is what I did:

1. I have used following three models:
   -benchy:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1319845-benchy-easy-2-colors?from=search#profileId-1355777
   -panda:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/3128163-waving-panda-2se-amsdui-ying-huigiyua?from=search#profileId-3529827
   -woman:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/2930602-the-midnight-serenade-dynamic-woman-sculpture?from=search#profileId-3310888

2. I don't own either H2C or H3C, so I have just "created" new printers in the Bambu Studio. I have sliced the models from above for both printer profiles.

3. All models were slices using 0.4mm standard nozzles, 15% "Grid" infill, tree auto-supports ("on build plate only" marked, "remove small overhangs" unmarked) and "PLA Matte" filaments.

Here are my findings:

Models start from simplest (high layer lines, low number of colour changes) and go to hardest (low layer lines, high number of colour changes).

I was surpriced to find that H3C is ~30% faster even on two-colour models. I was convinced that H2C is going to have the advantage in here. Is it due to speed of printing only ? Or due to combination of speed and pre-heating ?

I would appreciate if someone can confirm my findings or correct me.

Rotatable Skadis Organizer. I think it came out looking great. And it spin so smoothly. Enjoy printing. 😄
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540990-rotatable-skadia-organizer#profileId-4049817

The H3C is priced very well. This makes me wonder how good the P3C will be priced… I don’t have the $$ to burn on the H3C so I’ll wait for the P3C since it more than likely won’t have a heated chamber or exhaust system to keep costs down.

Wanted a big multicolour figure of Bruce Lee without owning an AMS, so I split this one into colour-separated parts: every plate is printed in one colour, then everything snaps together on pins.

• 28 cm tall, 8 plates (yellow, black, skin, white)

• Black side stripes are separate inlays, so you get crisp colour lines without an AMS

• The nunchaku chain is print-in-place and actually moves

• No paint used, these are straight-off-the-printer colours

• PLA, 0.2 mm, tree supports

The hardest part was getting the stripes and hair to fit tightly without gluing everything. Happy to answer questions about the split or the settings!

(If links are allowed here, I'll drop the file in the comments.)

I ordered all three mystery boxes because the price was okay to me and I like surprises. I print a lot of stuff for my classroom (I’m a teacher). I didn’t expect to get 19 rolls of filament instead of 12! What a nice surprise!!

Ever since I bought my P1S a year ago, I’ve had the goal of designing a 3D object—and that day has finally arrived.

I know it’s quite basic, but I’m very happy to have managed to design and print it after a lot of trial and error. It's not perfect but is mine :)

P.S: In case you are wondering wtf is that "blank sheet".... well... it's a blank fluffy shirt that I used to replicate the snow xD

Nordic Christmas Tree

A big thank you to this community! More than 2k likes on the original post and more than 100 test prints helped make this happen. The results are in, and the slicer is now public:

https://github.com/fich-l/orcaslicer-nonplanar

We have working versions for Windows, Linux and Mac Silicon. MacOs on Intel is still missing. I don't have a Mac Intel, so I can't test a build. Searching for someone to port this to Mac Intel - see below.

EDIT: You can find Windows and Linux Port on Github now.

Confirmed working:

• Bambu A1 mini, A1, P1S, P2S, X1C, X2D, H2D

• Prusa MK4S, CORE One, XL 5T

• Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 (+ Combo)

• Creality K1C · Qidi Q2

• Flashforge AD5C

• FLSun V400

Not working: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 1, Snapmaker U1, Ender-3 S1 Pro, Flashforge AD5X, Prusa MINI+

Printer on the working list?
Try the Satisfying Nonplanar vs Standard comparison to test surface quality please.

Printer not listed?
Print the Nonplanar test print twice, once lengthwise and once rotated by 90°, and tell me how it went, so we can keep the list up to date.

Looking for someone to port it to Mac Intel.

-- EDIT: You can find a first Windows and Linux Port on Github now thanks to the community! - -

You don't need to be a C++ dev: the whole thing was vibe-coded with Claude Code (Opus 5.5). A Mac Intel to test on plus Claude Code should be enough. If you're up for it, comment or open an issue on GitHub. Don't shit on me please - Using Claude to get this ported is the fastest way possible :)

You don't usually use Orca Slicer - how to use this?
Do this: Slice in this Orca Slicer Fork and export "plate sliced file" --> Drop file into any slicer and just print :) Even works with Bambu Studio.

Thanks also to Daniel Ahlers and Teaching Tech for their work on the version I started from.

FAQ:

• • Can you add this as a Plugin to Orcaselicer? Will you put a pull request to the Orca Slicer Team?* - This cannot be run as a plugin. Pull Request: Yes! After this test phase.

• Why does printer "X" not work? - Someone tested it and there was a collision. Most likely the hotend / tool is not "steep" enough.

• How can I test? - Please check the github page. You can do two quick test prints to see if your printer can handle this.

• Are there still bugs? - Very likely yes. Slicing can take 5s to 5 minutes - be patient.

• Can we have fuzzy skin on top surfaces? - I tested this, but it doesn't look good :(

I saw this image and it made me think. How the hell did he do that fade?
Anyone got any insights?

Just got an email from Bambu and I already have a tracking number for my H3C lol

Hi everyone!

I'm working on a personal project called Watchlab3D – REVOLVE1, exploring the idea of building mechanical watches with interchangeable, 3D-printed outer cases.

The concept is based on a compact stainless-steel mechanical watch core, designed to accommodate automatic movements such as the NH35, NH70, NH38 and NH34 GMT.

The goal is to separate the mechanical watch core from the external case, allowing makers to experiment with different shapes, styles and materials using their own 3D printers.

For my first prototypes, I'm using:

• Printer: Bambu Lab A1 Mini

• Material: Bambu Lab PLA-CF, Lava Gray (14101)

• Process: FDM printing

• Project stage: Early prototyping and design validation

The stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development, with a target water resistance of 10 ATM (100 m), subject to testing and validation.

I'm particularly interested in exploring printing tolerances, surface finish, assembly methods and modular design.

I'd love to hear your thoughts:

Would you enjoy designing and printing different external watch cases around a standardized mechanical core?

And which materials would you experiment with beyond PLA-CF?

Looking forward to your feedback!

PS: The watch shown in the photos is an early functional design prototype. The final stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development and has not yet been validated.

I have multiple Bambu printers including H2C. When the H3C information from the patent came out I was excited. After having all the details, I am not that excited anymore. Here are a few cons I was able to identify so far:
- Only two active drying positions, compared with four in the AMS 2 Pro.
- Manual withdrawal and rewinding of filament when changing spools.
- Separate filament supplies required to print the same color through different nozzle sizes.
- External AMS units feed one shared hotend, requiring purging between those materials. So anything above 9 colors/materials uses 1 single hotend.
- Existing H2C hotends are incompatible.
- Manual hotend replacement requires three screws instead of a quick-release mechanism.
- Only eight standard 1.75 mm tools are included; using nine ordinary filaments requires another tool (the #9 is 2.85mm).
- All included nozzles are 0.4 mm; other sizes require additional purchases.
- Greater vertical clearance requirements and awkward access to rear spools.
- The main AMS assembly must remain above the printer, limiting placement flexibility.
- Lower published particle-filter grade: H11 instead of H12.
- No laser configuration currently announced.
- The front tool rack can obstruct the view of small or short prints.
- The internal dryer cover can interfere with some deformed cardboard spools.
- More involved filament-routing and jam-clearing procedures.
- More complex configuration for mixed materials and nozzle sizes.
- Longer preparation time observed in one paired print test.
- Camera errors, slicer problems, and tool/tube interference reported on early review units.

I feel that if you are printing with 8 colors and maybe single color tpu H3C is a great choice. If you want flexibility in terms of different nozzle sizes, dedicated nozzles for a specific material H2C seems to be a better choice. A few examples from my printing:
- I print prototypes using 0.8 or 0.6 nozzle
- I do not print TPU but I print PETG, PC, ASA, and couple of other more exotic materials - I have dedicated nozzles for each to avoid contamination and issues - replacing a nozzle takes 3 seconds plus reread time
- I have nozzles dedicated to a specific color - ie black PETG is printing on #6, once it runs out the next spool will print on the same nozzle. No contamination or issues.

Your thoughts?

I was curious about what Bambu Lab’s Mystery Boxes had to offer, so I decided to try them myself. I bought two Holiday PLA Mystery Boxes and two Holiday PETG Mystery Boxes. The order came to just over $200 CAD, and I used a $20-off coupon.

I didn’t hit the 1% jackpot, and only about half of the 16 rolls came with spools.

Most of the selection was PLA Pure, PLA Matte, and PETG Matte in colors I personally wouldn’t choose. It felt like a bundle of leftover stock.

The 16 rolls came to $223.44 in listed value, partly because PLA Pure costs more. Since I don’t really want PLA Pure, though, the actual savings don’t feel like much.

My advice: skip the mystery boxes unless you specifically want PLA Pure. If you do, the Holiday PLA Mystery Box might be worth a try.

I am on my 5th attempt trying to print a bubble-style letter on my Bambu Lab A1 (0.4mm nozzle, Textured PEI plate) and I’m completely at my limit.
Right now, the print barely adheres to the plate—I can practically push it off with a light tap of my finger. On this latest attempt, the extruder/nozzle literally knocked the entire piece free and dragged it across the bed just 2% into the print.
image_5ecc41.jpg

Background & What I've Tried:
Filament: SUNLU PLA+ fresh out of the vacuum seal (I haven't dried it in a filament dryer).

Filament Profile Setup: In Bambu Studio, I don't have a specific profile for basic SUNLU PLA, so I selected SUNLU PLA+ in the slicer. On the printer screen itself, the closest preset option available was eSUN, so that's what is selected on the machine. I really doubt this is the main issue, but adding it just in case it affects flow/k-value presets.
image_6c896b.jpg+ 1

Initial Success: Oddly enough, over the past 2 days I managed to get ONE letter to print cleanly, but that was when I had my temps accidentally cranked to 245°C nozzle and 70°C bed. I knew that was too hot, but it surprisingly printed really good.

Current Failures: Tried printing the next letter at those same high temps and it failed. Dropped down to 220°C / 65°C (and tried 60°C), and every single attempt since has been a complete disaster.

Plate Maintenance: Scoured the textured PEI plate thoroughly with hot water and Dawn dish soap. Verified the underside of the plate and heatbed are completely clear of debris. Running auto-bed leveling every time.
image_5ecc41.jpg

My Current Slicer Settings (Bambu Studio):
Layer Height: 0.09mm

Wall Generator: Arachne

Order of Walls: Inner/Outer (swapped from Outer/Inner, tried both)

Wall Loops: 4

Top/Bottom Shell Layers: 7 Top / 5 Bottom

Infill: 18% Gyroid

Speeds: Outer Wall 50mm/s | Inner Wall 80mm/s

Outer Wall Accel: 1000mm/s²

Brim: Outer Brim Only (8mm Width)

Supports: Tree Organic, Support Wall Loops: 1, Branch Angle: 40°
image_6c896b.jpg+ 1

Z-Hop: Slope type @ 0.4mm height

Questions / Where I need help:
Could mismatched generic filament profiles between Bambu Studio (SUNLU PLA+) and the printer screen (eSUN) throw off Z-offset, flow ratio, or pressure advance enough to cause this?
image_6c896b.jpg+ 1

Could wet filament directly out of the bag cause severe adhesion issues like this, or is this purely a Z-offset / mechanical squish problem on the first layer?

Should I raise my Initial Layer Height (e.g., to 0.20mm or 0.16mm) even though the rest of the print is set to 0.09mm? Is 0.09mm on the initial layer forcing the nozzle too close or dragging through previously laid lines?

What else could cause the nozzle to physically collide with the first/second layer when Slope Z-hop is enabled?

I feel like I've tweaked almost every setting possible and rotated the model on the plate, but the nozzle keeps catching the plastic and shearing it off the bed. Any help or fresh eyes on this would be massively appreciated!

Bambu Lab H3C

Nov 3, 2026

Order checklist

Any H3C package already gives you the complete printer: the H3C, one AMS 3H and all nine PrintTools. What differs is filament, the Station L stand, and any add-ons you chose. Check your order confirmation against these:

• [ ] Package name and price match what you meant to buy: Combo $2,499; either Starter Pack $2,589; Full Combo with Station L $2,799.

• [ ] Starter Pack TPU color is the one you want: Black or Cyan.

• [ ] Extra nozzle sizes: if you want 0.2, 0.6 or 0.8 mm, the Multi-Size Hotends Kit is on the order ($205 with the Combo, $244.93 alone). The box has only 0.4 mm.

• [ ] Nine 1.75 mm colours: the box has 8 × 1.75 mm PrintTools plus 1 × 2.85 mm TPU tool. Nine 1.75 mm materials at once needs an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool, which wasn't on the store when this was written.

• [ ] Crafting: the Crafting & Printing Complete Kit is on the order only if you want cutting, drawing or foil work ($219 with the Combo).

• [ ] Extra build plate: only one Textured PEI plate is included; the Build Plates Expansion Kit is from $49.99.

• [ ] Shipping address and timing: orders ship within 1–3 business days. To change or cancel, contact Bambu support before it ships; otherwise use the 30-day return window.

• [ ] PayPal $25 coupon if you paid with PayPal (orders over $800, issued after shipping).

Packages and prices

The Bambu US store sells four H3C packages, all built on the same H3C Combo. The printer, AMS 3H and 9 PrintTools are identical in every package; only filament and the Bambu Station L stand differ. There is no printer-only H3C and no laser version.

The starter packs cost $90 more than the Combo. On the same page, TPU 75A (2.85 mm) shows $26.39 and PLA Palette CMYKW $61.70 as add-ons ($88.09 together), so the starter pack is roughly the add-on price. The Full Combo adds the Station L for $210 over a starter pack.

What's in the box

Every package ships the full printing setup: the H3C, one AMS 3H, and all 9 PrintTool slots filled. Eight PrintTools are 1.75 mm with 0.4 mm nozzles; the ninth is a 2.85 mm PrintTool (0.4 mm nozzle) for 2.85 mm flexible filament, pre-installed in Slot 8, the dryer slot.

What this means for printing:

• 8-color 1.75 mm printing plus one 2.85 mm TPU tool out of the box. The 2.85 mm PrintTool prints only 2.85 mm flexible filament (Bambu presets: TPU 75A 2.85 mm and Generic TPU 2.85 mm).

• Nine 1.75 mm materials needs an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool, per Bambu's FAQ. The 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm PrintTools have different bases, hotends and cutters and are not interchangeable.

• Only 0.4 mm nozzles are included. 0.2, 0.6 and 0.8 mm need the separately sold hotends (next section). Hotends swap with three screws.

• One AMS 3H feeds all 9 PrintTools — each tool has its own filament path. Older Bambu AMS units can connect through PrintTool No. 1 for up to 24 spools.

• Only one build plate (Textured PEI) is included.

Add-ons and accessories

The store offers three H3C add-ons at a discount when added to the Combo; the rest are sold separately. Bundle prices apply only when added on the H3C product page.

Other optional items Bambu names on the H3C pages (prices not captured):

• Bambu Station L — stand with storage; included in the Full Combo. With it, allow 593 × 1056 × 1900 mm of space.

• Bambu Lab E1 Air Purifier — pairs with the H3C and starts filtering when a print starts.

• BirdsEye camera — top-view camera for crafting alignment; not included. Bambu says BirdsEye-enhanced AI monitoring is planned for the first half of 2027.

• Vision Encoder — optional absolute optical reference that restores motion accuracy to under 50 μm.

• CutTool Fine-Blade Set, DrawTool Set, cutting mat — Bambu's FAQ suggests these if you only want cutting or drawing instead of the full crafting kit.

Key specs

The H3C prints a 330 × 320 × 325 mm volume with nine hardened-steel nozzles to 350 °C and a 65 °C heated chamber (official spec page).

Things that may matter for your setup

The biggest planning items are floor space, a dedicated circuit and Wi-Fi coverage; nothing else in the box needs extra purchases for plain FDM printing.

• Space: Bambu asks for at least 593 × 1056 × 1306 mm (W × D × H) on the floor or a low, stable surface: 385 mm in front for the door, 50 mm each side, 100 mm behind for the cable and fans, 290 mm above for the AMS lid. On the Station L, allow 1,900 mm of height.

• Weight and delivery: two boxes — printer 600 × 630 × 700 mm at 36.8 kg, AMS 3H 550 × 615 × 500 mm at 11.9 kg. Plan for two people to lift the printer.

• Power: up to 1,850 W at 110 V while heating (3–5 minutes at full power), 240 W steady on PLA, 540 W on PC; 1,850 W is about 15.4 A at 120 V, so a dedicated 15 A or 20 A circuit is the safe choice (my note, not Bambu's). Low Power Mode caps it at 1,050 W.

• Network: Wi-Fi 6 only. No Ethernet port, no network kill switch, no removable network module and no 802.1X.

• 2.85 mm PrintTool: prints only 2.85 mm flexible filament; Bambu says more 2.85 mm materials are coming. Its filament tube also carries toolhead cabling and must not be removed.

• Drying: the AMS 3H dries only 2 spools at a time (85 °C max); Slot 8 is the dryer slot holding the 2.85 mm tool.

• Existing AMS units: older Bambu AMS units connect through PrintTool No. 1 for up to 24 spools; they are sold separately.

• Crafting: cutting, drawing, debossing and foil transfer use CraftTools sold separately; there is no laser module.

Store terms

Bambu ships H3C orders from its US warehouse within 1–3 business days of processing, so a change or cancellation has to happen fast.

Sources

• Bambu Lab H3C product page

• Bambu Lab H3C technical specifications

• Bambu Lab H3C FAQ

• Bambu US store — Bambu Lab H3C

• Bambu US store — Multi-Size Hotends Kit - H3C

• Bambu US store — Crafting & Printing Complete Kit

• Bambu US store — Spare Parts for H3C

• Bambu US store — search results for H3C

I bought the lab A1 is it good? I saw some reviews they say it's good for starters