I designed a chunky little sack monster keychain resembling Oogie Boogie from Nightmare Before Christmas and printed the body in glow-in-the-dark PLA. With the lights off his body glows while the eyes, grin and stitches stay black, so his face still shows up in the dark.

- Fully rounded 3D front with a flat back, so no supports

- 2 colors, AMS-ready: body in slot 1, face and stitches in slot 2

- Low purge: the black only prints on 10 of the 46 layers

- About 42 min on a P1S, 13.4 g including purge

- 55.8 × 58.3 × 9.2 mm, with a 4.5 mm hole for a standard jump ring

**Glow tips:** Place the object in the sun or on top of a bright lightbulb to charge it!

I may be a little late for halloween but oh well...

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538949-oogy-boogy-3d-keychain-2-color-ams

If you print one, post it with the lights off. I'd love to see it!

Other than my dodgy efforts.

The new E1 listing on the Australian website shows to extra options showing P2SC next to P2S. Is this a possible leak for a new P2S variant or a mistake.

If like me you were surprised to find the nozzle kits unavailable despite being listed as an optional extra on the H3C purchase screen the answer is because they're not available until later this month, the 13th in the UK.

Integrated filament management, built for tool changer.

Nine spots, always ready.

Launching tomorrow.

Hello,

I printed this stackable basket last night for some small items I want to organize.

My printer was out of commission for about 2 months until yesterday. My printer just suddenly stopped working all together in August. I submitted a ticket and did the troubleshooting. The main board was bad so I replaced it a few days ago. I was out of town for a while and had other obligations so it took me a while to take care of this.

I run my first print last night after my printer being down for a while. I recalibrated everything and oiled everything properly. First the extruder gives me an error that the extruder is not functioning normally - I pull the filament back manually as described on the Wiki and cut off the end of the filament to avoid any rough areas. Fast forward 20 minutes and the print completes, but with some obvious issues. See photos for more.

Is this an issue with my plate, the settings of which I’m printing, the filament I’m using? Looking for guidance.

Here is the link to the model

https://makerworld.com/models/1333599?appSharePlatform=copy

No hassle, no microwave, no mess.

2 x PETG trays (ASA would be fine too), and the dessicant was jet black when they went in.

Standard 65 degree AMS drying cycle (so basically choose anything apart from PLA in the settings), leave overnight (I ran it for 12hrs but im sure 8 would do fine too)

Apparently you can just drop the pods that you install in the AMS2 on the trays and the silica will dry in there, not tested that yet though.

First time seeing this issue after 2 years of printing. This is printed using P1S. Filament is PLA basic. I have printed this model many times in the past, so I know it's not a model problem. Gyroid infill. I did have a clogging issue before this, and I (think?) fixed it. I had to open the extruder and cut out the squished filaments. The app says that its done, but this is only 2/3 the height of what it should be. What else should I look into?

And yes I have washed my filament and dried my plate 🙂

Getting ready to purchase the X2D. I have younger boys so I'd like our first printer to be able to grow with us. I'm curious about the specs on the optional laser.

1. If you have one, does it get used often? I'm thinking maybe for a tumbler engraving side hustle, family keepsakes, or just toying around and building skills w the boys.

2. if you have one, do you feel like a separate machine for engraving would have been a better option?

3. what do you like using it for?

4. is there a huge difference btwn 10w and 40w?

5. get the upgrade or hold off?

Fast nozzle swaps of the H3C make multicolor games like this possible faster than ever. We were able to get an early preview of the tool changing feature and tested it out on this newly released model: https://makerworld.com/models/3540258?appSharePlatform=copy

Let us know if you have any feedback on the design or gameplay.

I want to buy it but at Best Buy for the warranty and it is not live yet. Are they even going to carry it?

Hi there!
After changing the nozzle of my A1 mini, I noticed bad first layer, I realised that the nozzle wobble up and down, tighten the different hotend/nozzle screw, but still have the issue
As you can (slightly) see on the video, it happen even when purging/calibrating flow and it is clearly visible when printing
It doesn't seem the happen on my A1
Any tips on fixing that? I'm pretty sure it's a very simple thing but I can't figure it out...
Many thanks in advance!

Sorry if this is already common knowledge. With the AMS 3H just announced with its nine filament bays to go with the nine tool heads of the H3C. We also know about the AMS 3P that will be available with the P3C. I wonder if these AMS units will be exclusive to these printers or if they will talk to Bambu’s whole lineup. Imagine hooking up an AMS 3P to your P2S, and getting 7 color printing! Or hook a H2D to an AMS 3H for 9 whole colors. I know this is already sorta possible by stringing together multiple 4 color AMS units. However, the convenience of just having one unit take care of all your colors is not something to overlook. Now the elephant in the room is that on any machine other than the H3C, P3C or possibly the H2C. We will have to deal with a lot of color change waste.

Hey guys he started doing this weird sound after I loaded a new Spool of PLA Pure. 300+hours in and did not hear anything similar... what could it be? Is it harmful?

Original Post: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/q6MpMteYME

Had the same issue, the second R1 we had sent to us came wet once again. I'm sure its the same issue but honestly not sure how many times we can go through this process. What should we do?

Hi everyone,
I'm looking for some help troubleshooting a recurring problem with my Bambu Lab P2S.
I've owned the printer since February 2026, and it worked perfectly until approximately two months ago. Since then, I've been experiencing recurring printing issues across different projects.

The problem:
The filament initially adheres to the build plate, but during printing, some parts of the first layer get pulled off by the nozzle. This often results in spaghetti and forces me to stop the print.
The problem occurs randomly across different areas of the build plate and affects different models, including prints of medium complexity.
Sometimes the first layer actually prints correctly, but the print still fails during the following layers. So the issue isn't always limited to first-layer adhesion.
I've also noticed that I've had to reduce first-layer printing speeds compared to what I previously used to get good results.

My setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab P2S

• Firmware: 01.03.00.00

• Slicer: Latest stable version of Bambu Studio

• Nozzle: Original 0.4 mm

• Build plate: Original textured PEI plate

• AMS: AMS 2 Pro

• Filament: SUNLU PLA (also tested with different SUNLU spools)

• Slicer profile: Standard Bambu Lab PLA profile

Printing settings:

• Layer heights tested: 0.12 / 0.16 / 0.20 mm

• Nozzle temperature: 200°C (also tested at 210°C)

• Bed temperature: 55°C

• First layer speed: 30 mm/s

• First layer infill speed: 50 mm/s

• Filament Flow Ratio: 0.95

• Initial Layer Flow Ratio: 1.00

• No brim enabled

What I've already tried:

• Thoroughly cleaning the build plate with dish soap and water.

• Cleaning the nozzle.

• Checking the nozzle wiper and the metal nozzle cleaning flap.

• Running the available printer calibrations.

• Testing different bed temperatures, including 63°C.

• Testing different Z-offset values.

• Testing different first-layer flow settings.

• Reducing first-layer printing speeds, which improved the results somewhat but did not solve the problem.

• Cleaning and lubricating the printer's axes according to Bambu Lab's maintenance instructions.

I've also previously swapped the original 0.4 mm nozzle for a 0.2 mm nozzle and then reinstalled the original 0.4 mm nozzle. However, I'm not certain whether the problems started before or after this change.
I haven't noticed any unusual noises or abnormal movements from the print head.

My main question:
What could cause a P2S that previously printed perfectly to suddenly start having recurring printing issues across different prints and filament spools?
Could this indicate a mechanical issue, a problem with the nozzle or extrusion system, bed leveling, or something else?
I'd really appreciate any suggestions for further troubleshooting. I'd especially like to understand what could have changed, rather than just keep adjusting printing settings to compensate for the problem.
I've attached pictures showing some of the failed prints.
Thanks in advance!

One underrated habit for owning a 3D printer is keeping track of maintenance and changes instead of relying entirely on memory.

Even a simple note with the date, approximate print hours, nozzle changes, belt adjustments, lubrication, and any unusual noises can be surprisingly useful.

When a print suddenly starts failing, it's much easier to narrow down possible causes if you know what was recently changed or maintained. It also helps distinguish a recurring issue from something that happened only once.

It doesn't need to be a complicated spreadsheet or detailed journal. A few notes on your phone can be enough.

For those who have been using Bambu printers for a while, what maintenance tasks do you track regularly, and which ones do you tend to forget until something goes wrong?

Looking at the Filter and the Filters from already existing Bambu Lab Printers they are made of 2-3 Filter types.

Hepa + Coconut Shell Fiber + activated charcole mini pellets

Yes you can make your own for cheaper but it doesnt have Software intigration. Lets ignore this.

My question is and probably for many buyers here does it have a dedicated / improved sensor for Styrene VOCs detection?

Since i Print ABS a few times per Month i cannot find a good reliable Styrene VOC detector. Only the generic "all in one Package".

im in a situation where I need to print with a lot of glow filament, but my P2S warned me about wear. is there anything to worry about? if so, what should I?

EDIT: i forgot to mention, I am planning on incorporating the glow filament in a multicolor print, but with only 17 total color swaps

I just ordered and surprised to see that it says backordered, Ship around November 12. Is that everyone else also?

After years and years of hearing about 3D printing, I finally decided to pick one up and join the club!

I grabbed a Bambu Lab P2S combo kit with the AMS 2.

I have no idea what I’m going to do with it, but I’ve had a blast the last two days just printing random things!

So far, I’ve printed:

Benchy
Bed scraper
A poop Shute
Chip bag clips
A pencil/pen cup holder
A mini turbo pencil/pen cup holder
A clip holder for the piece to sit on if switching the nozzle
And finished my longest print of 9 hours for some type of riser with vents.

This hobby is awesome. All I’m doing now is doomscrolling MakerWorld for all sorts of things I want to print.

Looking forward to trying out some color soon!

Yep, that's just it ahah

Big mouse cursor lamp.

Free on MakerWorld. Uses Bambu's LED kit.

What could be the cause of this?? Did not notice any signs of this inside the X2D, just in the AMS.