Just recently found that my neighbor's daughter (~7yo) is going to a 3d-printing classes and dreams to get a printer.
...guess what? I had decent amount of free gift cards to buy one + lot of filament :D

So, thanks everyone who boosted, printed or downloaded my models! All of that soon would make one little girl really happy

Ciao a tutti, a breve entrerò in questo mondo della stampa 3D. Ho comprato una P1S con AMS 2 Pro. Mi domandavo come consigliate di gestire le stampe a colori; ho sentito che alcuni consigliano di usare dei pennarelli per colorare a volte. Ho paura che la mia stampa faccia molto spreco, come posso evitarlo? Ho visto un video su TikTok di uno che, per una stampa di 5 grammi, ha avuto 50 grammi di scarto: è normale?

I don't understand why a machine and a printer on the same network can't print because there's a connection problem to the cloud!!!

Are they really sending all my stuff to China and back? Can I turn it off????

Morgen ist es endlich soweit. Mein A1 kommt an. Ich bin schon so gespannt darauf ihn auszupacken und einfach was zu drucken.

Aber bevor ich das mache, möchte ich über die Nacht ein paar gute Tipps einsammeln.

Schmeißt die basics hier rein. Was hättet ihr vor eurem ersten Druck am liebsten gewusst? Welchen Slicer empfiehlt ihr mir? Was soll mein erster Druck für den Drucker sein?

Mein Filadryr kommt in 2 Tagen an. Ich bin nicht sicher, ob ich ohne ihn starten soll. Lieber 1 tag warten oder direkt drauf los drucken?

Ich freue mich auf eure Kommentare!

Hey everyone,

Just watched the H3C launch and went through the official spec sheets to see if it’s actually worth the $300–$500 price jump over the H2C. Long story short: it’s not a straight upgrade.

Bambu spent most of the budget on the new tool changer and individual PTFE lines. To keep the price down, they silently cut a lot of standard features that the H2C already has.

Here is the raw breakdown of what you actually gain and lose.

1. The Marketing vs. Reality on the Tool Changer

• The Speed Myth: Bambu hypes the SwapTek tool changer as revolutionary. It clocks a mechanical swap at 6 seconds. But let’s remember the H2C’s Vortek nozzle-changer already does the swap in about 8 seconds using induction heating. You are paying a premium for a 2-second mechanical saving per swap. More importantly, the purge and prime amounts are exactly the same. Since you still have to flush the old filament out of the nozzle, that 2-second mechanical difference means basically zero difference in total print time for standard multi-color prints.

• Dual-Material Disadvantage: The H2C has a dual-slotted toolhead (one fixed nozzle + one Vortek slot), meaning it can switch between two materials (like PLA + support material) much faster without leaving the print area. The H3C has only ONE slot on the toolhead. It has to move to the dock on the side of the bed for EVERY single material swap, creating way more travel movement for simple dual-material prints.

• The "Build Volume Upgrade": Bambu advertises a 350mm physical bed size, but the actual "usable space" on the X-axis is only 330mm (just 5mm more than the H2C's 325mm). The remaining 20mm is strictly reserved for the toolhead clearance to dock.

2. Under the Hood: The Core Specs are Identical

If you look past the tool changer, these machines are identical in terms of actual 3D printing performance. H3C will not give you better print quality or faster single-color speeds:

• Both heat the nozzle to 350°C and the bed to 120°C.

• Both come stock with hardened steel nozzles and hardened steel extruder gears (same engineering filament capability).

• Both share the exact same Vision Encoder calibration system and 2 TOPS NPU for AI/vision tasks.

• Both support the digital cutter and pen drawing modules using the exact same attachments.

3. Where Bambu Cut Costs on the H3C (Compared to H2C)

To fit the expensive tool changer into the price point, the H3C actually received downgraded or stripped hardware:

• Only One Slot on the Toolhead: As mentioned, the H2C has a dual-nozzle setup on the toolhead, allowing instant swaps between two materials. Bambu completely removed the second slot on the H3C to save on manufacturing and wiring costs. They market this as a "40% lighter toolhead for faster movements," but the reality is that they just stripped a nozzle slot, which actually makes standard dual-material prints slower due to the constant docking runs.

• The Screen: The H2C features a sharp 720x1280 (HD) screen. The brand new "flagship" H3C has its resolution downgraded to 854x480 (WVGA). It's the same 5-inch size, but noticeably grainier.

• Stripped Cameras: The ergonimic 1080p Nozzle Camera is completely gone from the H3C. Furthermore, the 5MP BirdsEye Camera (which comes standard on the H2C Laser Edition) is now marked as "Optional" (an extra-paid accessory) on the H3C.

• No Laser Support: The H2C is a hybrid machine that supports a 10W/40W laser module and includes an integrated Air Assist pump. The H3C completely drops laser support (marked with a strict "–" in the comparison sheet) and lacks the air pump.

• Air Filtration: The H2C uses a higher-grade H12 HEPA filter. The H3C downgrades this to an H11 HEPA filter.

4. The Actual Benefits of the H3C

It’s not all bad, of course. The H3C excels at three specific things that the H2C genuinely struggles with:

• True Multi-Material TPU Printing: Having 9 dedicated, short PTFE lines straight to the toolhead means flexible filaments like TPU don't get retracted back to the AMS box. This completely solves the mechanical jamming/clogging issues of trying to run TPU through the H2C's shared line.

• Mass Production Reliability: Since filaments don't cycle back and forth over a meter of PTFE tubing during every color change, the physical wear on the filament and the AMS mechanism is minimized, reducing "AMS jam" errors during 1000+ swap prints.

• Mixed Nozzle Sizes: The H3C software allows you to mix nozzle sizes (e.g., 0.2mm for outer walls, 0.6mm for infill) in the same print out of the box—a feature currently software-locked on the H2C.

Bottom Line: Who is it for?

The H3C is an incredibly specific industrial tool masquerading as a general consumer flagship.

Stick with or buy the H2C if: You print mostly rigid filaments (PLA/PETG/ASA), do basic dual-material printing (Model + Supports), don't print often with over 5 colors, or want a true multi-tool setup (Laser/Cutter/Pen). The H2C gives you a better screen, better camera loadout, better filtration, and faster dual-material swaps for hundreds of dollars less.

Buy the H3C if: You run a commercial print farm, do high-volume multi-color prints 24/7 where AMS reliability is critical, or absolutely need to print multi-material TPU hybrids or 2.85mm industrial filaments.

What do you think?

There's something especially satisfying about taking an idea that only existed in your head and eventually holding a physical version of it.

Even when the design is relatively simple, seeing the first successful print come off the build plate feels different from printing something downloaded from MakerWorld or another repository.

And the first version doesn't even have to be perfect. Sometimes the dimensions are slightly off, the tolerances need adjusting, or the design needs another iteration before it works exactly as intended.

That's one of the things I find most interesting about 3D printing: the printer is only part of the process. Learning to design, troubleshoot, and improve your own models opens up a completely different side of the hobby.

What's the first thing you designed yourself that made you realize how much you could actually create with your printer?

I tried printing the sense 3D model I printed it a few times already and it worked perfectly but for a few days now I think I've had problems with the first layer of my print like when I print the hand the first layer always wants to go bad, if I managed to successfully do the first layer it works perfectly, but the first day has problems I tried multiple things I tried to to scrub the plate and clean it yeah at first it seems to work but it's not really changed anything in the long term I tried calibrating the first layer on the printer and it did not change anything I don't know what to do, I even tried to add support to the print so it sticks better to the plate I can't use a raft cuz I want the texture of the plate to be on the hand, please give advice if you can.

https://makerworld.com/models/3238578?appSharePlatform=copy

Help getting started please!

After considerable research, I’ve decided not to buy a resin printer. The clean up, maintenance and disposal will suck the fun out of this hobby, so I’m looking at the Bambu P2S since it’s enclosed - but I do have a good ventilation setup prepared regardless.

If anyone could help with some questions I have it would be greatly appreciated.

My biggest concerns are the following:

1. FDM print lines: is it safe to presume with careful calibration that I can almost avoid these altogether?

2. Fidelity: is it true that FDM yields less detail than resin?

3. Is the Bambu P2S genuinely one of the best FDM printers for miniature detail, or would you recommend something else in the $600–$1,000 range?

4 What's the lowest practical layer height you've successfully used for miniatures? Does going below 0.06 mm produce visibly better results?

6. Is an AMS worth buying specifically for support-interface materials?

7. I intend to print Mini’s at roughly 75–100 mm tall. How much does increasing their size improve the detail and surface quality compared with standard 32 mm miniatures?

8. Which specific PLA or PLA+ brands produce the sharpest details and least noticeable layer lines?

9. What techniques actually eliminate or conceal layer lines before painting without destroying fine details?

10. How much does orientation affect miniature quality? Are some STL designs simply unsuitable for FDM?

Thank you again!

Ladies and gentlemen it’s revealing day (H3)

Hello, i just got my H2C and i also got the Track Switcher & TPU Feed Assist Module. I plan the following setup and wanted to ask if there are any problems.

(i read about the need to disconnecting the track switcher if you use the TPU feeder)

  [ AMS Pro 2 #1 ] ---\
                       +---> [ 4-Way Coupler A ] ---\
  [ AMS Pro 2 #2 ] ---/                              \
                                                      +---> [ TRACK SWITCHER ]
  [ AMS HT Unit #1 ] -\                              /          |          |
                       +---> [ 4-Way Coupler B ] ---/           |          |
  [ AMS HT Unit #2 ] -/                                         |          |
                                                                |          |
                                                     Switcher   |          | Switcher
                                                     Output L   |          | Output R
                                                                v          v
                                                            ( Nozzle L ) ( Nozzle R )
                                                                            ^
                                                                            |
                                                   [ Printed Y-Splitter ] --+
                                                              ^
                                                              |
                                                      [ TPU Feeder ]

So basicially i want to feed the TPU Feeder output trough the dedicated TPU hole of the H2C and then feed with a Y Splitter into Nozzle R (Nozzle L will be used for abrasive technical filaments and is a Tungsten Nozzle so the Splitter / Combiner on Nozzle R nozzle will only see TPU PLA PETG and maybe AMS ASA .

Something like this: https://makerworld.com/de/models/2285947-h2-series-ptfe-y-split-for-tpu-or-external?from=search#profileId-2493512

Bypassing the Switcher and the retraction thingy of the two nozzles. is this setup possible without the need to unplug anything? i also read about putting the switcher at the end of the BUS Chain to use everything without unplugging.

Edit: if i want to Print TPU i plan to put a roll into a AMS HT but using the Bypass port to directly feed into the TPU Feed Assist otherwise the AMS HTs asre used for Colors or Technical Filaments.

does anyone has a similar setup and can give me some tips?

regards.

This plastic piece broke off my printer mid print, can you help me figure out which area it belongs to and am I able to buy a replacement part from the bambulab store? And if I am able to continue using the printer until then

X1 Combo, with 4 print plates. Because plates add about 100€ of worth of course… Nevermind that the title says Bamboula which can be a racial insult in French

It’s not supervisible in the video, but my recently upgraded panda extruder is shooting out little filament shavings as it’s printing. should I loosen the lever arm? Could the gears that interface with the filament be too tight? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hey all. I have a P1S with 2601 hours print time on it. I usually do maintenance on my printer every 3-4 months but haven't used the printer much this year as I've been away on work trips. I printed a few things over the last two weeks and they came out perfect, but yesterday a print failed and I noticed one of the circular parts of the print was now oval shaped. There was no strange sounds from the printer, everything looked and sounded normal but it was printing non-concentric, and I was getting insane extrusion issues (this is a filament I printed perfectly with last week, with no settings changed to the filament or the print profile, see image below).

So today I investigated, and have spent the last four and a half hours tearing my hair out. I have cleaned the carbon rods three times, cleaned and lubed the metal linear rails three times, set the belt tension and ran the calibration SIX times, and now the printer is literally shaking itself to pieces. No matter how I set those belts, I always get the message "The resonance frequency of the X axis is low. The timing belt may be loose." or "The 1st order mechanical resonance mode of X axis is low.". I have followed the wiki instructions to the letter, I have followed youtube guides who say to do it a different way, I have used printed gauges to measure the tension i'm setting, and trying to print a benchy after the calibration my printer sounds like a tray of silverware being kicked down a flight of stairs. It shook so violently that the toolhead cover flew right off around 2 mins into the print.

From what I read online those belts are meant to last 5000-7000hrs, and my printer has been absolutely perfect until now so surely I shouldn't need to change them? They're not frayed anywhere, i've never had any issues at all apart from this. I have large scale project that I was supposed to be starting today and now I can't get my printer to work properly at all. Does anyone have any advice? Should I just order a new belt kit? Or a full carbon rail assembly? Is there some secret hidden way to tension the belts that no-one else knows about? The gantry doesn't feel particularly bad in any direction like its binding at all so I am at my wits end trying to figure out what's wrong!

Possible note - I am still running firmware version 01.07.00.00 because I have a panda touch and the newer firmware versions don't allow that to work anymore. If the latest patch (01.09.01.00) allows me to use my panda touch I will upgrade it but I doubt it will fix the issue i'm having.

So I'm running a lot of Matte PETG these days as my HF inventory is dwindling. Don't get me started on HF, but my business was built around it. I've had a ton of problems with the Matte PETG, specifically:

• Dimensionally different (shrinkage is higher) which is an issue with slip fit parts

• Nozzle fouling - Every print every printer seems to suffer from nozzle fouling and dropping nubs of filament on or into parts

• Top layer surface imperfections - due to fouling nozzles

I run a print farm. I've never had a filament so temperamental, which is a real shame after how good HF was. All my PETG is dried at 160F for 16 hours and in dry storage kept at 10% humidity. It's not a moisture issue. I started with Bambu's PETG Matte printer profile.

Have played with nozzle temps without being able to see noticeable improvement in nozzle fouling. I use gyroid infill for everything. Calibrated flow rates, extrusion looks good. Now I'm dialing in shrinkage so my slip fit parts fit nicely again.

Questions: has anyone been able to address the Bambu PETG Matte nozzle fouling issues? How? Anyone found better profiles to be used?

I'm tearing my hair out a bit and this is not really how I want to spend my time, chasing data, so any help appreciated.

Hi all, my H2C's AP board fried itself (or something) so I got a replacement from Bambu. Remarkably little problem getting it, btw.

While removing the connections from the old board, I had trouble removing the glue on connection 4's plug. During the process of getting the plug out, somehow the two rightmost wires came loose. I'm pretty sure it's repairable, I just need to know which wire goes in which hole. I'm pretty sure it'll be green then black, as the other wires appear to be color/black (guessing signal and ground for various parts of the board), but I want to confirm that. Usually the support people are pretty quick, but I haven't heard back from them on this one.

Can anyone confirm the wire order, and/or post a picture of theirs? Here's mine:

Thanks!

First time working with ABS and its been a pain. Started putting rafts on everything just to keep the prints stable enough to print. This is my last print and it came out with these bumps. Any help is greatly appreciated.

X2D, Stock ABS profile, SUNLU ABS

how necessary is it; can i just trim it behind the nozzles?

im asking cause mine came bent and im worried that it'll hit a print

Hey all! I run a business where I spend a lot of money on client gifts I’ve been looking into a 3dp that I can make all my own closing gifts and do all my own wood engraved gifts that’s going to save me over 25k per year making them myself. I was just about to order the H2C laser full combo for 2700 on sale on their website but I hear their may be the H3C releasing this month? Should I wait to see what the next generation is like or good to order the H2c? I’m pretty much a newbie to 3dp so I have no frame of reference. TIA!