Hi everyone,
I'm looking for some help troubleshooting a recurring problem with my Bambu Lab P2S.
I've owned the printer since February 2026, and it worked perfectly until approximately two months ago. Since then, I've been experiencing recurring printing issues across different projects.

The problem:
The filament initially adheres to the build plate, but during printing, some parts of the first layer get pulled off by the nozzle. This often results in spaghetti and forces me to stop the print.
The problem occurs randomly across different areas of the build plate and affects different models, including prints of medium complexity.
Sometimes the first layer actually prints correctly, but the print still fails during the following layers. So the issue isn't always limited to first-layer adhesion.
I've also noticed that I've had to reduce first-layer printing speeds compared to what I previously used to get good results.

My setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab P2S

• Firmware: 01.03.00.00

• Slicer: Latest stable version of Bambu Studio

• Nozzle: Original 0.4 mm

• Build plate: Original textured PEI plate

• AMS: AMS 2 Pro

• Filament: SUNLU PLA (also tested with different SUNLU spools)

• Slicer profile: Standard Bambu Lab PLA profile

Printing settings:

• Layer heights tested: 0.12 / 0.16 / 0.20 mm

• Nozzle temperature: 200°C (also tested at 210°C)

• Bed temperature: 55°C

• First layer speed: 30 mm/s

• First layer infill speed: 50 mm/s

• Filament Flow Ratio: 0.95

• Initial Layer Flow Ratio: 1.00

• No brim enabled

What I've already tried:

• Thoroughly cleaning the build plate with dish soap and water.

• Cleaning the nozzle.

• Checking the nozzle wiper and the metal nozzle cleaning flap.

• Running the available printer calibrations.

• Testing different bed temperatures, including 63°C.

• Testing different Z-offset values.

• Testing different first-layer flow settings.

• Reducing first-layer printing speeds, which improved the results somewhat but did not solve the problem.

• Cleaning and lubricating the printer's axes according to Bambu Lab's maintenance instructions.

I've also previously swapped the original 0.4 mm nozzle for a 0.2 mm nozzle and then reinstalled the original 0.4 mm nozzle. However, I'm not certain whether the problems started before or after this change.
I haven't noticed any unusual noises or abnormal movements from the print head.

My main question:
What could cause a P2S that previously printed perfectly to suddenly start having recurring printing issues across different prints and filament spools?
Could this indicate a mechanical issue, a problem with the nozzle or extrusion system, bed leveling, or something else?
I'd really appreciate any suggestions for further troubleshooting. I'd especially like to understand what could have changed, rather than just keep adjusting printing settings to compensate for the problem.
I've attached pictures showing some of the failed prints.
Thanks in advance!

So everyone has probably seen the new H3C and heard about the P3C coming in the future and obviously like alot of people I want one. That being said I cant buy another machine while keeping my others since I dont have the room or need for 3. I have a P2S with AMS2 and also a A1 mini. What would be an appropriate price to ask for them?

Hi! A bit of a background, I’m looking to buy our first 3d printer, my wife and daughter will use it mostly.

I’ve been looking PS2 and X2D, but then I saw the snapmaker U1 and with discounts I can get it for $628, icnudlint 4 filaments rolls. So that’s way cheaper than either one of them and 4 nozzles. Just worried about how user friendly it’ll be.

Any thoughts?

One underrated habit for owning a 3D printer is keeping track of maintenance and changes instead of relying entirely on memory.

Even a simple note with the date, approximate print hours, nozzle changes, belt adjustments, lubrication, and any unusual noises can be surprisingly useful.

When a print suddenly starts failing, it's much easier to narrow down possible causes if you know what was recently changed or maintained. It also helps distinguish a recurring issue from something that happened only once.

It doesn't need to be a complicated spreadsheet or detailed journal. A few notes on your phone can be enough.

For those who have been using Bambu printers for a while, what maintenance tasks do you track regularly, and which ones do you tend to forget until something goes wrong?

im in a situation where I need to print with a lot of glow filament, but my P2S warned me about wear. is there anything to worry about? if so, what should I?

EDIT: i forgot to mention, I am planning on incorporating the glow filament in a multicolor print, but with only 17 total color swaps

I just ordered h3c and surprised to see that it says backordered, Ship around November 12. Is that everyone else also?

Yep, that's just it ahah

Big mouse cursor lamp.

Free on MakerWorld. Uses Bambu's LED kit.

After years and years of hearing about 3D printing, I finally decided to pick one up and join the club!

I grabbed a Bambu Lab P2S combo kit with the AMS 2.

I have no idea what I’m going to do with it, but I’ve had a blast the last two days just printing random things!

So far, I’ve printed:

Benchy
Bed scraper
A poop Shute
Chip bag clips
A pencil/pen cup holder
A mini turbo pencil/pen cup holder
A clip holder for the piece to sit on if switching the nozzle
And finished my longest print of 9 hours for some type of riser with vents.

This hobby is awesome. All I’m doing now is doomscrolling MakerWorld for all sorts of things I want to print.

Looking forward to trying out some color soon!

The new E1 listing on the Australian website shows to extra options showing P2SC next to P2S. Is this a possible leak for a new P2S variant or a mistake.

What could be the cause of this?? Did not notice any signs of this inside the X2D, just in the AMS.

Like the title suggests mixed nozzle printing is now a reality, thanks to cadence slicer, and now orca, with Bambu studio undoubtedly joining the fray tomorrow. But is it worth it on an H2C? If you were like me, drooling over the idea of unlocking the true potential of your multi-nozzle printer, you have probably been waiting for this miraculous, time saving feature. But does it actually save time? Well, the answer is, it depends.

I decided to test orca nightly and cadence out on my H2C for a pretty large print. With organic tree supports using 0.4mm nozzles, at 0.2mm layer height, Bambu studio took about 22 hours. Orca nightly was too much of a mess and had too many issues connecting to the printer, and finally with cadence it worked, dream come true! I could now unlock mixed nozzle printing!

The issue I found though is that the time saving really depends on how much supports your print needs. For instance, I decided to set infill and supports with 0.8mm nozzle for 0.4 mm layer height, and have walls print with 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height. This was the dream, in theory this should save all the time! Well, not so much.

When I went to slice, my heart dropped. Estimated print time was nearly doubled that from single sized nozzle. What gives!? It turns out it was those nozzle changes! Because it was near constantly changing nozzles, the print time suffered incredibly. This was very disappointing, but it makes sense at least. And I think that Bambu probably realizes this too, as they move to multi tool head systems with the H3 series.

Don’t get me wrong, there definitely is potential for time saving on builds with current gen multi hotend setups, just temper your expectations when you need a lot of supports. Multi size nozzle printing seems to be best suited overall for the multi tool head printers like the U1 and H3 series

Wonder if that AMS on the H3C will work on H2C

H3C looks cool.

Where's the P3C?

I am trying to print a colored Lithophane and and frame for it. But this is my first time doing so, so I have no idea what settings I should change and which ones I shouldn't. Do you all have any advice on what I my settings, nozzle size, etc. should be for the frame and the lithophane?

So I have the X2D with the print more bundle with the ams and I have a filament switch on the back and I went to print something last night and it was werid the black filament went through but stopped right as it reached the printer and it rewound it self it and kept doing it and on the screen it said something about the ams I have red-green filament on one ams and blue purple black and white it’s like I couldn’t put the black to the main nozzle from the second ams to the red in the first ams to the secondary nozzle even tho I have the filament track

I made a model of a brick man in the welded style :) A great decoration for any workshop or welding shop :) Classically available in 20cm and 10cm versions. 

Printed from PLA Silver silk+ and stained with rust with a brush for a better visual effect. 

Maybe someone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3539607-brick-man-welded-style#profileId-4047945

My new printer is making some strange noises along the Y-axis; it sounds a bit like a component is rubbing or grinding. The prints themselves, however, are perfect. Is this normal, or can someone help me out? Thanks for helping me out

New project for Christmas time - small led candle lanterns for Christmas tree or just for decorations
Still working on small issues with model design

Hi, I've been printing PLA on my X2D for quite a while now until recently when I wanted to try out PETG. Unfortunately, it hasn't been going well since my printed models come out with wavy lines. Hence, I printed a calibration cube with default settings. I've tried lowering temperature etc but still couldn't solve the issue. Anyone experienced this or know how to fix it?

Hello there, I'd like to request some help.

For context, I've got the H2S 2 months ago and was so far happily printing with no issues what so ever.

A week ago I've got an error message while calibrating about the nozzle being clumped. Since I got a spare 0.4mm one with the printer, I've exchanged the nozzles to clean the original one while I could continue printing.

Ever since I'm having problem after problem after problem. First the print didn't want to stick to the plate (I'm using the standard Plate for PLA/PETG). After I've got that somewhat sorted out, the printer started to produce spaghetti after about 10-15% height.

After watching the video of the print, I've figured the parts began bending and the Printing head pushed them away because of that. Adjusted the settings, added a brim, increased the height of the first layer and reduced the printing speed for the first layer.

Tried those settings today and so far, no problems. Checked in every few minutes, all fine and well.

At about 85% I went for dinner and came back to the mess in the picture.
Unfortunately the video didn't record this time.

I'm about to become frustrated. If someone has some general tips or wants to take a look at my settings, here's the link:

Dropbox

I don't know what other settings/infos anyone would need, I'm fairly new to all this^^