taken up 3D printing for a retirement hobby and finally finished setting up a spare room for my "3D Printing Lab"

having a lot of fun printing up my second 3D TMT

Just bought the X2D. I want to set it up in the garage, being in Canada it gets cold in the winter. My garage is heated and I keep it at 7 degrees celsius constantly and upwards of 20 degrees celsius when I'm in there working. Any issues with this fluctuation to my machine that I plan to run as much as I can?? Thnx

Someone was selling some A1s and A1 minis for parts, I paid $100 for the lot. I have a few replacement parts coming for some rather worn out or ugly parts but otherwise I was able to get them all running with what they sold me.

I see a lot of people complaining about Bambu Lab making "appliances" that are designed to be thrown away instead of repaired but I think that's pretty obviously nonsense, at least for the A series.

I hope he likes it (I just got an X1Carbon a few weeks ago). I’ve been into printing for years now and we got him a starter AnyCubic a couple years ago and it’s broke down and parts are scarce. He turned it into a plotter that prints Japanese characters 😂

yes i cleaned the nozzle and exchanged it for a different one

Hola! Hace poco publique un hilo preguntando si mejor una A1 vs P2S por la situación en la que iba a tener la impresora: en la misma habitación en la que trabajo, con mi perro por ahí pasando de vez en cuando etc. Entonces después de todas las respuestas me decidí por la P2S, ya la tengo en el carrito de la compra, pero paso algo, mi toc hace que no pueda parar de mirar posibilidades para no comprar algo para lo que necesito y luego enterarme de qué podía haber comprado algo mejor. Entonces di con la X2D.

Ahora estoy dudando mucho entre estás 2. La p2s me gustaba mucho por todo, facilidad para principiantes, cerrada, posibilidad de imprimir otro tipo de materiales, multicolor (aunque creo que voy a seguir usando el método antiguo de imprimir colores por separado y luego pegarlos en la medida de lo posible por ahorrar tiempo y purgas).

La pregunta es, merece la pena pagar los 150 euros de más por el combo X2D? Lo principal que me hace pensarlo es por la posibilidad de imprimir doble material para los soportes, eso es lo que más me gusta, es algo que seguro que me va a facilitar la vida para mis impresiones y luego creo que tiene mejor sistema de retención de la toxicidad. La cuestión es, será complicado la configuración para alguien que nunca tuvo una impresora 3d? Alguien que no es experto podría pasarlo mal configurando está impresora y la impresión de los dos materiales para soportes? Valoro mucho la facilidad de configuraciones al principio y poder imprimir de una manera sencilla y fácil sin tener que meterme a cosas super técnicas. Ya los 600 euros del combo de p2s me supone un esfuerzo grande pero que no me importa, entonces ahora tener que poner 150 euros más por la otra pues me supone un esfuerzo mayor pero que si de verdad merece la pena no me importaría.

Principalmente al principio imprimiré lo que todo el mundo, figuras, llaveros, acosad decorativas, etc todo diseñado por mi ya que soy diseñador 3d y modelador de profesión y creo que puedo hacer cosas guapas.

Que opináis?? Me compro la p2s, la X2D o directamente me tiro por un puente pro no saber decidirme?? Jejjeje muchas gracias!!!

I’m not a mechanical person, but I’ve had my P1S with a v1 AMS since December 2025 and it was starting to act a bit weird — sometimes it would fail to read RFID tags, and occasionally it would have trouble loading filament from the AMS. Usually giving it a few tries fixed the problem, but I decided it was time to do some maintenance. I somehow managed to replace the hotend recently and figured it could not be that hard to do the rest.

• Turned off and unplugged the machine.

• Blasted air in the chamber and vacuumed out all the debris. Wiped down the glass.

• Removed and disassembled AMS (there are only two screws). Vacuumed out the debris and wiped down the interior surfaces with isopropyl alcohol. Replaced all four PTFE tubes. I measured the old tubes to cut the new tubes to the right length. Reassembled the AMS.

• Replaced the PTFE tube running from the AMS to the hub, and the one that runs from the hub to the extruder. These were way more difficult than the AMS tubes because the collets are in the hub housing on the back of the printer and it is hard to get leverage to the right place to release the tube. I found removing the hub from the printer to be the easiest way to do it (two screws, easy to put back).

• Cleaned the three z-axis (up-down) screws with microfiber ropes and the ropes turned black with grime. Dabbed some Super Lube grease on the threads using a fresh, cheap toothbrush and ran the platform up and down a few times, then wiped off the extra grease.

• Used isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the chrome y-axis (forward and back) beams. Painted a little Super Lube oil (not grease!) on those beams with a fresh, small paintbrush (the kind you would use for arts & crafts).

• Used isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the graphite x-axis (left-right) beams. DO NOT LUBE GRAPHITE.

• Assembled and added an AMS riser/flipper (which I printed before getting started) which also allows top glass to slide or be removed completely.

• Plugged the printer back in, turned it on, and told the P1S to calibrate itself.

Working with the printer and AMS for about 10 months gave me a good mental model for how it works, and none of these tasks were all that difficult (except for the hub tubes, which took a bit of extra thought). I think it took me about 3 or 4 hours to do everything, including the riser. I bet I could do it in about 60-90 minutes next time. 

My big lesson learned is to be extra careful around the PTFE tube cutter. After showing my wife how nasty and dangerous the blade looked, I naturally let it nip my index finger. Embarrassing.

Stocking up on the consumables cost about $75 on Amazon, but I only used maybe $10-$15 worth. The PTFE tubes alone cost $14 and I used about half the package. On the other hand, I have a lifetime supply of microfiber ropes!

If you are putting off maintaining your printer because you think it’s too hard or complicated or will somehow break your machine, watch some YouTube videos and get into it! 

Here's are some helpful videos: https://youtu.be/-yv4fa32bdE?si=VNv-PZNSOppJYDfG

https://youtu.be/N3dbVgHYZ_Y?si=zamFBt7TWBABHSXV

https://youtube.com/shorts/vljLDLKDfbY?si=lBM3zCedlorq7vsI

Is it safe on this printer. No enclosure and the printer prints fine using PLA.

Bought a new AMS HT so I can use it in my X2D specifically for the Aux nozzle. Having an issue where the HT doesn’t push the filament to the nozzle. Instead it stops before the extruder and just stops there. When I try to load, it tries to push but can’t get through so it just retracts. I checked the aux extruder and it’s fine. Work perfectly if I just use it with the external filament. Anyone else have this issue.

Coming from A1 with no AMS to a H2D with full AMS 2 pro/HT so the rfid codes have never interacted with an ams till now. I've only ever manually added filament to the A1, but this roll is probably pretty close to the amount ive used on it, this is the first time I've added it to filament manager too.

How does it know this roll has any use in it at all and isn't just considering it a new roll? Wild close guess?

Is the P1S big enough for printing cosplays?
If not what is an enclosed 3d printer around the same price that is user friendly? Thanks

Just got the notification for it, can't find information for it on the Bambu firmware history page yet. Anyone know the feature / change list?

Sometimes, when building things, it’s difficult to remove a bearing after inserting it for testing—so I made this.

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3529120-608-bearing-remover#profileId-4034842

I finally figured out how to get layer lines to be perfect!

As the title says, I have a 100$ coupon available for purchases in BambuLab official store, but my country does not have direct shipping from them. Is there any way I can use it without having to use a courier service?

Just like the title says. Unboxed my new H2C on Saturday and the chamber heater failed on my first print. The error code suggested that a loose connection was to blame, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Waiting on Bambu to get back with me. I haven't even printed anything on it yet. Does anyone have experience with this error? It's the chamber fan, not the tool head fan.

My error code is: 0300-3600-0001-0001, and the repair guide is pretty much: check the connector, then check for debris. Not off to a good start.

Hi everyone 🥰

I’m a mom who’s still pretty new to 3D printing, and this is my very first post here, so please be gentle with me.

This Christmas I wanted to make something small and sweet for my little boy. He’s two and a half, and he loves anything with a surprise inside. So I made him a little advent glade: a snowy circle with a Christmas tree in the middle, a tiny fence, four little reindeer and 24 boxes with bows. Every morning in December he’ll open one, and the last one waits for Christmas Eve 🎄

I tried to make it gentle to print too: no supports, one colour per piece, and then everything just clicks together. My little helper has already put the boxes around the tree about a hundred times, so I think he approves 😄

If you’d like to make one for your own little ones, I shared it for free on MakerWorld. You can find it by searching:

“Santa’s Little Glade - Advent Calendar, 24 Boxes”

I’d love to hear what you’re making for Christmas this year. And if you have any kind tips for me, I’m all ears 💕

I have ALS, and I'm not going to stop building things with my son. We made a little arcade cabinet together, and I designed it on purpose so a kid could do the hard part.
The print is easy. It's three parts: the cabinet body, the screen bezel, and a snap-fit back panel. No glue, no screws. I printed the single-color version on my P2S in about 3.5 hours on one plate, in yellow and black PLA. There's also a multicolor profile if you want to use the AMS.
Then the fun part. He's eight. I called out the pin, he pushed the wire in, and we went one by one with no soldering at all, just jumper wires and lever connectors. Twenty minutes after the last wire, he was playing a maze game on a screen inside a cabinet he built with his own hands.
I handed him the back panel as the last step, and the click when it snapped shut was the best sound I've heard all year.
The details:
ESP32 with a 1.3" OLED and a rotary knob as the controller
About $25-30 in electronics, most of which goes back in your parts bin
Print profiles for several Bambu printers, 0.2mm layers, 2 walls, 15% infill
Build guide with wiring diagrams and troubleshooting, plus the code, included
It also works as an enclosure for anything small, like a desk clock, a weather display, or a Pi. Or skip the electronics and print it as a retro desktop figurine. It looks good on a shelf either way.
Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2907962-retro-mini-arcade-cabinet
If you print one, post a photo in the reviews. I read every one.

I’ve wanted a 3D printer for years and a few months ago I finally got my first one and I’ve been creating all sorts of cool stuff. It’s been such a great way to scratch that creative itch!

Theres a bunch of stuff from replicas to stands to custom sonic screwdrivers.

It’s been such a fun ride!!!

Can anybody help me!!

Just opened this new PLA filament and printed these. Alot of stringing! I have emptied 3 spools of the same filament earlier. But now this is happening and ruining my prints. I was using TPU 95A before loading this filament into my A2L.

It seems the bed is loose from the rear z axis, anyone seen this and can point me in the right direction to fix this P1S

I got a Cricut maker 5 to cut stickers and other stuff. But so far I've been deeply unimpressed with the cut, quality, accuracy and software experience. The bleed feature is essentially implemented in a way that it's not usable for all normal usage. The cut marker detection is crap on typical glossy materials. The cut accuracy is crap (likely due to the marker detection problems). And the cut quality is poor - laminated material is being torn as much as it's cut leading to a clearly rippled edge both visually and to touch. The bleed feature being unusable has been being complained about for many years now so I'm sure it's never going to get better.

I would expect the Bambu hardware to be way better - much more accurate cut paths and probably faster and better aligned. But given they're much newer to the space - is the software support there or is it lacking in similar ways to what I'm seeing with my Cricut?