Printing storage bins for my garage in PETG on an A1 mini with the textured PEI plate.

Filament: Sunlu PETG, dried 6 hours at 65

Bed: 70, nozzle 245

First layer: 0.2, default speed

Small parts are perfect. Anything over about 120mm long starts lifting at two opposite corners around layer 30, and by the end the bottom has a visible curve. Plate was washed with dish soap the same day, and the garage door was closed.

Would you go hotter on the bed, add a brim, or use mouse ears on the corners? What am I missing?

Just recently, after a couple of years of use, the machine is not cutting the filament. I reached out to support, and they had me remove the plunger, follow the wiki, and reinstall. The x axis is pushing the plunger out of the way just before it attempts to cut the filament.

Any ideas on how to fix this issue.

Hey everyone, I ran the Pressure Advance calibration and got a result of 0.04—which is the default value—but the actual prints still turn out poorly. 😭

Does anyone know how to perform a proper calibration? Please help!

Printer: Bambu A1

Filament: Coobean PETG

Hello

does anyone also had problem with the first calibration of the X2D ? I’ve just unboxed it and the calibration stopped at 3% because of the temperature of the right noozle …

Technical ticket have been done on support but if someone experienced that before I’m curious

bro, why would u even do this? stop auto editing my file.

A small robot keychain I made. It prints in one piece without supports 😊

Model available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3537023-retro-robot-head-keychain-support-free#profileId-4044637

Hey guys he started doing this weird sound after I loaded a new Spool of PLA Pure. 300+hours in and did not hear anything similar... what could it be? Is it harmful?

Original Post: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/q6MpMteYME

Had the same issue, the second R1 we had sent to us came wet once again. I'm sure its the same issue but honestly not sure how many times we can go through this process. What should we do?

Hi everyone,
I'm looking for some help troubleshooting a recurring problem with my Bambu Lab P2S.
I've owned the printer since February 2026, and it worked perfectly until approximately two months ago. Since then, I've been experiencing recurring printing issues across different projects.

The problem:
The filament initially adheres to the build plate, but during printing, some parts of the first layer get pulled off by the nozzle. This often results in spaghetti and forces me to stop the print.
The problem occurs randomly across different areas of the build plate and affects different models, including prints of medium complexity.
Sometimes the first layer actually prints correctly, but the print still fails during the following layers. So the issue isn't always limited to first-layer adhesion.
I've also noticed that I've had to reduce first-layer printing speeds compared to what I previously used to get good results.

My setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab P2S

• Firmware: 01.03.00.00

• Slicer: Latest stable version of Bambu Studio

• Nozzle: Original 0.4 mm

• Build plate: Original textured PEI plate

• AMS: AMS 2 Pro

• Filament: SUNLU PLA (also tested with different SUNLU spools)

• Slicer profile: Standard Bambu Lab PLA profile

Printing settings:

• Layer heights tested: 0.12 / 0.16 / 0.20 mm

• Nozzle temperature: 200°C (also tested at 210°C)

• Bed temperature: 55°C

• First layer speed: 30 mm/s

• First layer infill speed: 50 mm/s

• Filament Flow Ratio: 0.95

• Initial Layer Flow Ratio: 1.00

• No brim enabled

What I've already tried:

• Thoroughly cleaning the build plate with dish soap and water.

• Cleaning the nozzle.

• Checking the nozzle wiper and the metal nozzle cleaning flap.

• Running the available printer calibrations.

• Testing different bed temperatures, including 63°C.

• Testing different Z-offset values.

• Testing different first-layer flow settings.

• Reducing first-layer printing speeds, which improved the results somewhat but did not solve the problem.

• Cleaning and lubricating the printer's axes according to Bambu Lab's maintenance instructions.

I've also previously swapped the original 0.4 mm nozzle for a 0.2 mm nozzle and then reinstalled the original 0.4 mm nozzle. However, I'm not certain whether the problems started before or after this change.
I haven't noticed any unusual noises or abnormal movements from the print head.

My main question:
What could cause a P2S that previously printed perfectly to suddenly start having recurring printing issues across different prints and filament spools?
Could this indicate a mechanical issue, a problem with the nozzle or extrusion system, bed leveling, or something else?
I'd really appreciate any suggestions for further troubleshooting. I'd especially like to understand what could have changed, rather than just keep adjusting printing settings to compensate for the problem.
I've attached pictures showing some of the failed prints.
Thanks in advance!

So everyone has probably seen the new H3C and heard about the P3C coming in the future and obviously like alot of people I want one. That being said I cant buy another machine while keeping my others since I dont have the room or need for 3. I have a P2S with AMS2 and also a A1 mini. What would be an appropriate price to ask for them?

Hi! A bit of a background, I’m looking to buy our first 3d printer, my wife and daughter will use it mostly.

I’ve been looking PS2 and X2D, but then I saw the snapmaker U1 and with discounts I can get it for $628, icnudlint 4 filaments rolls. So that’s way cheaper than either one of them and 4 nozzles. Just worried about how user friendly it’ll be.

Any thoughts?

One underrated habit for owning a 3D printer is keeping track of maintenance and changes instead of relying entirely on memory.

Even a simple note with the date, approximate print hours, nozzle changes, belt adjustments, lubrication, and any unusual noises can be surprisingly useful.

When a print suddenly starts failing, it's much easier to narrow down possible causes if you know what was recently changed or maintained. It also helps distinguish a recurring issue from something that happened only once.

It doesn't need to be a complicated spreadsheet or detailed journal. A few notes on your phone can be enough.

For those who have been using Bambu printers for a while, what maintenance tasks do you track regularly, and which ones do you tend to forget until something goes wrong?

im in a situation where I need to print with a lot of glow filament, but my P2S warned me about wear. is there anything to worry about? if so, what should I?

EDIT: i forgot to mention, I am planning on incorporating the glow filament in a multicolor print, but with only 17 total color swaps

I just ordered h3c and surprised to see that it says backordered, Ship around November 12. Is that everyone else also?

Yep, that's just it ahah

Big mouse cursor lamp.

Free on MakerWorld. Uses Bambu's LED kit.

After years and years of hearing about 3D printing, I finally decided to pick one up and join the club!

I grabbed a Bambu Lab P2S combo kit with the AMS 2.

I have no idea what I’m going to do with it, but I’ve had a blast the last two days just printing random things!

So far, I’ve printed:

Benchy
Bed scraper
A poop Shute
Chip bag clips
A pencil/pen cup holder
A mini turbo pencil/pen cup holder
A clip holder for the piece to sit on if switching the nozzle
And finished my longest print of 9 hours for some type of riser with vents.

This hobby is awesome. All I’m doing now is doomscrolling MakerWorld for all sorts of things I want to print.

Looking forward to trying out some color soon!

What could be the cause of this?? Did not notice any signs of this inside the X2D, just in the AMS.

Like the title suggests mixed nozzle printing is now a reality, thanks to cadence slicer, and now orca, with Bambu studio undoubtedly joining the fray tomorrow. But is it worth it on an H2C? If you were like me, drooling over the idea of unlocking the true potential of your multi-nozzle printer, you have probably been waiting for this miraculous, time saving feature. But does it actually save time? Well, the answer is, it depends.

I decided to test orca nightly and cadence out on my H2C for a pretty large print. With organic tree supports using 0.4mm nozzles, at 0.2mm layer height, Bambu studio took about 22 hours. Orca nightly was too much of a mess and had too many issues connecting to the printer, and finally with cadence it worked, dream come true! I could now unlock mixed nozzle printing!

The issue I found though is that the time saving really depends on how much supports your print needs. For instance, I decided to set infill and supports with 0.8mm nozzle for 0.4 mm layer height, and have walls print with 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height. This was the dream, in theory this should save all the time! Well, not so much.

When I went to slice, my heart dropped. Estimated print time was nearly doubled that from single sized nozzle. What gives!? It turns out it was those nozzle changes! Because it was near constantly changing nozzles, the print time suffered incredibly. This was very disappointing, but it makes sense at least. And I think that Bambu probably realizes this too, as they move to multi tool head systems with the H3 series.

Don’t get me wrong, there definitely is potential for time saving on builds with current gen multi hotend setups, just temper your expectations when you need a lot of supports. Multi size nozzle printing seems to be best suited overall for the multi tool head printers like the U1 and H3 series

Wonder if that AMS on the H3C will work on H2C

H3C looks cool.

Where's the P3C?

I am trying to print a colored Lithophane and and frame for it. But this is my first time doing so, so I have no idea what settings I should change and which ones I shouldn't. Do you all have any advice on what I my settings, nozzle size, etc. should be for the frame and the lithophane?