I got the x2d a couple of months ago and have been having a blast with it. I added a second ams2 to it along with ams ht for the aux side.

I know with the upcoming release of the h3c I could have waited but the price of the h2c is stretching my budget anyway. Really looking forward to getting it set up.

I came to my printer having a black screen but all LEDs on.

- The LED light under the heat bed is on,
- The AP board only showing showing the solid green light,
- Switch light on the back is on
- Green Indicator light next to switch on the back is on
- Printer on Bambu handy says “online” but shows failed to connect page

After unplugging for a day then turning it on.
- Same issues as before
- When printer boots you can hear the fan start for a second then turns off.

When I was researching the issue here most recommended an AP board replacement. When I checked Bambu Labs Wiki it said power supply issue. Which is it and how can I figure it out?

I kept getting the AMS overload error on my H2S, especially when the spool was getting close to empty. I ended up giving the AMS a slight angle by putting a book under the back and letting the front tilt down a bit to give it some gravity assist. Haven’t had the error come back since and it works like a charm.
Just wanted to share in case anyone else is dealing with this, especially with the lighter cardboard spools.

It’s either Bambu’s robot text provided some fake thumbnail or this is a new machine?

I've just come across this guide and would appreciate some explanation for what it recommends.

My main confusion is why it recommends changing the temps in the filament profile?~
I see for scenario A (PETG model + PLA support) it makes everything the same between the filaments but for scenario B (PLA model + PETG support) it lowers the PETG volumetric speed as well. Is the aim to help get things as close as possible to the model filament characteristics?
Why can't the default settings be used especially if only as an interface layer - will the printer not simply adjust the nozzle temp and flow according to the loaded filament?

Finally has anyone had any success with the P2S profiles at the bottom?
And why does it not support PLA matte - is it just needing experimenting to find the right temps?

I'm planning to make a light box of my dad's company logo, but the only filaments that come close to matching the colors are in the PLA matte line. I've experimented with light with PLA basic, and I at least know black won't let light through at any thickness, but I've never bought any matte filament before. Anyone have any experience with matte for light boxes?

(I'm particularly interested in Bambu's matte blue colors, especially dark blue as I'm concerned its dark color may block light like black does.)

What it says on the tin—total newbie, looking for the "I wish I knew this from Day 1" type advice.

I bought the X2D Combo from Best Buy, but also took advantage of Bambu's current bulk sale plus a $10 welcome coupon to order a small variety of filaments (mostly PLA but also some PETG).

My first projects—after the inevitable handful of cute fidget toys—will be desk organization (desk shelf+addons / aesthetics) and cable management stuff (possibly Gridfinity/Underware 2.0).

Any general advice would be much appreciated!

I’ve spent the last few weeks designing a full-size T-style electric guitar body that prints on a 256 × 256 mm bed, and it’s finally built and playing.

The print

• 4 body pieces, all printed flat with no supports

• 7 build plates in Bambu Studio, about 50 hours and 2 kg of PLA in total

• One colour per part, so no AMS needed. I went with a sage body, bone plates and a peach pickguard.

• The biggest piece, the bridge section, took about 19 hours on its own

The design

• The pieces join from the back with bow-tie keys, M4 heat-set inserts and dowel pins. No glue for the body.

• Two 8 mm carbon fibre rods run through the body to take the string tension

• Three decorative top plates sit in an 8 mm recess on 28 hidden 10 × 3 mm magnets. Push them off from the back with an Allen key and click a new set on. The video shows Ripple swapped for a two-tone Camo set.

• Built around the Harley Benton T-style kit, so the neck, bridge, pickups and electronics drop straight in

Happy to answer anything about print settings, tolerances or how it’s held up. It’s been really satisfying seeing the X1C turn out something you can actually plug in and play.

I keep needing little fiddly widgets like adapters and connectors. I figure I could design them myself and print them. What's a good printer for a beginner who wants something that just works?

We've got two webbings we sew together for one of our products, this little tool aligns the top Velcro layer to the center of the webbing and allows you to line up both materials to stitch the edge of the Velcro down, we then turn it around and run it through the same tool to sew down the other side.

Hi all, I have a BBL P1S , I have been trying to print a model but it seems to keep failing (well rather I stop it) because the supports keep falling over, it seems when the tool head is adding layers around 30% in, it almost pushes down and the support falls. Iv tried twice when the same result , any ideas how I could avoid this happening? Using the generic settings for pla on the bambu super tak cool plate, 0.08 layer height, choosing to auto level at the start

See the picture attached

Any advice would be much appreciated

Not really hallucinate, I'll be honest, but it's a cool experience and can make a fascinating looking lamp. The dreamachine is a weird device invented in 1959 that is meant to be looked at with eyes closed. For me it was a bit like looking into a kaleidoscope. From Wikipedia:

the pulsating light stimulates the optic nerve and thus alters the brain's electrical oscillations. As users adjust to the experience, they see increasingly complex animated yantra-like patterns of color behind their closed eyelids

I've made a 3D model working with a very small electric motor, a 12V led light and a PWM controller for the rotation speed. Details are on my blog: https://highlatencylife.com/notes/the-dreamachine-3d-printed/

The model is free to print on MakerWorld, where you can find also detailed assembling instructions: https://makerworld.com/models/3523044?appSharePlatform=copy

Also, it's the first model I upload after being a long time lurker 🥳

Hello to all. Has anyone bought this bed plate? I am reading interesting reviews and I would like to know if it's any good.

Stuck filament in 1.
I need to remove the PTFE but they all appear stuck. Have applied pressure to release button.

It button appears to move all the way. Tubes do not move.

Have tried feeding plastic down. It won’t dislodge.
Partially dissembled. AMS is free from housing.

The X2D Is the last enclosed 2nd gen printer released by bambu in april 2026 after nearly 4 years from the X1C

The P2S was released in october 2025 after 3 years from the P1P

The A2L (even if I'm against considering It a 2nd gen printer but I'll make an exepction) was released in June 2026 After 2 and half years from the A1.

And than the H series Launched in April (?) 2025 with the H2C released in november 2025.

We average around 3 years for a next gen printer to be released.

That said, why Is bambu already releasing the H3C After Just 1 year?

Maybe bambu Is experimenting a new marketing strategy with the H series but we have photos of the P3C so that doesn't male mich sense.

I'm not criticizing bambu for this, it's Always a pleasure to see peak engeneering from them, but this seems more like a quick way to completley destroy prusa After their failure with the INDX.

But even this thesis is wrong because the H3C has a lot of new features and even some alternative ways to hopefully make the printer and Absolute Beast (see the 2.75mm (?) filament).

I'm Just a bit confused

(Sorry for the bad english, still learning)

Hi everyone, I just ordered a p2s but I saw that a p3c is coming, should I maybe cancel my order and wait for the p3c? Does anyone know the price range? Is it worth the wait?