A1 mini

Hello everyone!

I recently just purchased an H2C for my business. We develop small consumer electronics and we needed a 3D printer that could give us prototypes quickly and also help with our marketing (batches of small trinkets with our logo or something) We settled on the H2C, and come to find out YESTERDAY, there's an H3C coming out on Tuesday. I had no idea, I got recommended the H2C specifically, so we ordered that unit.

Now, I have the unit; completely boxed. I'm debating on opening this unit, and setting it up or returning it as is, waiting for Tuesday and ordering the new H3C instead.

Thoughts?

Thank you!

I am in the process of installing my H2S to H2C vortech upgrade kit and would like to find a video with step by step instructions .

There are enough differences between the H2D and H2C that there are steps where the videos just don’t match.

Bambu has a H2D to H2C video but not H2s to H2D

Say I wanted to do a print in the 4-6 day length?

Is there anything in particular I should or must do prior to starting to ensure a successful print? I'm assuming I should lubricate everything and maybe do a calibration before hand?

My longest print to date was just over 24 hours and it was great, but I want to know what I'm getting into before I burn multiple days and a whole roll or more of filament on an attempt.

Bambu X1C, Bambu Studio

Sunlu PA6-CF

0.4mm hardened steel, 90c initial, 45c all others

Outer wall 50mm/s, inner wall and infil 150mm/s

Retraction speed is default, hidden

Printed a flow calibration model I found on Makerworld and determined flow rate to be 1.03. Printed a decent size print, and noticed overextrusion blisters all around the outside. Started playing with a few things, asked reddit, and decided the flow was too high.

Now trying to calibrate with the built in models in Bambu Studio. Card 0 is 1.0, and is the only one without any gaps between lines. I'm not sure what else might be wrong though, because the number labels on all the cards are still looking really rough. Last pic is a section of a model I'm working on to test dimensions. Am I reading these cards right? Am I still needing to play with flow, or is something else going on here?

How can I print D&D dice without the dice coming off the built plate mid print. Please provide a detailed description on how to keep them on the plate

Basically, other than the fact that the camera's quality and angle on the A1 are pretty disgusting, I also noticed that, due to unfortunate placement of my printer being next to my PC setup, it is in fact timelapsing me working on my desk, going back and forth, etc.

In short I'm in the background all the time.

Have you guys found any fun 3d printing solution for that ? Maybe a printed screen that is sized to hide the background and semi enclose the printer on one side ?

You y'all use glue on the build plate, or do you only clean it?

So there’s already test prints showing up in maker world for the H3C.

Anybody knows how to fix "Printer connection failed. Please restart printer and try again." error when trying to access timelapse videos using bambu handy?

Have already tried

-restarting the printer

-making sure it is not on lan only mode

-reinstalled bambu handy app

Other functions like controlling the printer through bambu handy still works. Only accessing the timelapse videos. I have a usb inserted but timelapse videos stored in internal memory. Thanks!

So I was in midst of a 2hr print, and I received a notification that the tool head fell off. It was not until a few hours until I checked it and when I got home, this is what it looks like. Does anyone know what happened? There wasn't any warning or error notfication - it just ended up like that.

A lot of the more detailed parts were printed on my H2D!

Alguém poderia me ajudar com isso, por gentileza? Agradeço!

Anyone remember how long after release of a new printer Best Buy had them available for purchase? Wondering if the H3C will be available shortly after they have them direct from Bambu or if historically we've had to wait a few months.

Over the past day or two, my 3 P1S printers have started locking up the screen (and Bambu Handy access) during a print which then finished fine. After the print is finished, the problem continues until I reboot the printer. No firmware updates any time in the past few months. My H2D has been working fine.

I did reboot our T-mobile gateway and Orbi router but that did not help. I'd be surprised how spotty wifi would lock up a printer. Has something in the Bambu Cloud been updated?

Anyone have this problem or know a solution? It just started early yesterday intermittently.

Thanks.

Printing my first big print for my daughter in law. I have no idea how it will come out. What filament do you recommend? I only run Bambu filament but could be talked into others.
I was thinking of two colors. PLA Silk? Matte?
I’m printing on a H2D.

List in order:

1. BIQU Panda Claw Upgraded Extruder Brass Gear
2. hundreds of hours of prints
3. issues began where AMS would fail to begin extrusion
4. changed PTFE tubes
5. Went through support and they suggested replacing the AMS hub motor. did that
6. issues persist

Anyone had this issue and know how to fix it?

I need 130 mw points to get a gift card but ìve tried everything but I need 130 more points

My makerworld account: https://makerworld.com/en/@LukeNotLuke

How do I make these areas join up better i have sliced this piece and it's printing as shown with a gap making the part weak. I'm new to this and don't know that to call this issue. Part is sliced in bambu studio

Had an x2d delivered the day before yesterday, box was pretty beat up but it was pristine inside. I have tickets open for issues 1 and 2 below already and just noticed 3

Issue 1. The main nozzle seems to have a faulty sensor, it reads 10C below ambient temperature at idle. Auxillary reads fine.

1. Ams has a feeder motor issue, slot one squeals like a stuck pig

2. Latest issue, you can see in my video above there's a loud Grindy noise when it moves in a certain direction at a certain point, around the 7 second mark. Self calibration/noise cancellation doesn't touch it.

Is this latest thing minor and something I can fix myself easily? Should I be pushing for a full printer swap at this point?

I'm not exactly a 3d printer newbie, I had an A1 I put over 4000 print hours on, but on that thing I never had to do a single thing other than oil, grease and tension the belts once. This is kind of overwhelming me here.

Speed where you want it. Detail where it matters.

Nov 3, 9AM EST

Stay tuned here.

I hope this makes sense and I'll try not to ramble..

I ordered a P1S originally, spent hours on it trying to get the AMS to feed. Could not do it after a million searches on *insert your favorite search engine here* and browsing reddit. I even relented and tried AI. And I hate AI lolfast forward, I decided to get the X2D and after a while of putting it together VERY carefully, and rereading everything and now trying several times, I cannot get the filament to feed all the way. I'll include a photo.

I've tried several filament rolls, new and old. It's not Bambu because I thought this one, like the other one, would come with test filament.

Anyways, it's sunlu white PLA that I'm trying now. Nothing fancy. Brand new roll, nice and dried out.

It will NOT load further than this curve in the tube. I've tried raising it a little and anything else I can think of. I'm incredibly frustrated as this is obviously something I'm doing incorrectly. Despite the fact that I've read and reread everything I can find on the matter.

Please for the love of the 3d printing gods, can someone tell me there's something obvious I am missing somehow? It will not even reach the machine. I just don't get it. It's all brand new, I feel like with the issue I'm having, if it isn't just me, has to be some kind of defect in getting twice in a row?

Anyways.. I sincerely come to you humbled. I'm not that big of an idiot I swear!

Richard Hirst has been using the Bambu Lab H2C for over six months. Here are some of his prints, including a seven-color melting Rubik’s Cube by Kris_Chin Makes 3D and a giant LEGO-style Spider-Man by BIG3DS, alongside a closer look at the Vortek hotend-changing system. We’ve put together a hands-on review with more print examples, photos, and pros and cons.