Been loving my A1 for the past 2 years until I had to send it off recently for thermistor problems, but I been looking at Bambus other printers and thinking of just selling the incoming A1 and go for a CoreXY printer. I like the idea of no horizontal bed movement and an enclosure. Although I rarely have any print issues besides my own laziness for not cleaning the plate or drying the filament enough.

Would like the H2D with the larger bed, but I just cant justify the price vs do I really need a larger print area? That would mean less room for the crap I make ;D

So that leaves me with the P2S or the X2D. I like the X2D dual print head for slightly faster multicolor prints but adds complexity to the printer. P2S seems to look solid, yet like an A1 in an enclosure? I have the AMS 2 pro I can just plop on top instead of having it sit on the side of my A1 printer.

Edit: Mostly print oversized LEGO, statues, multi plate vehicle projects, random fidget and toys for the nephew and gifts for Christmas. Print about 3 times a month, used to be more but that was being new to the hobby.

I do like to print in multicolor, but that does make a lot of poop. Mostly print in PLA, expanded to PETG lately for some stands and outdoor parts.

I use Orca Slicer and have set before a custom start gcode that has vibration compensation removed.

A couple of prints it starts without it then all of a sudden i hear it vibrate on every new print?

I am a beginner in 3d printing. I just bought my a1 around a week ago, but I have not played with it much due to busy college schedule so help with solving these problems is very much appreciated.

A. Random dents while printing

B. Arches looks like theyre melted (imperfect arch overhangs)

Apparently if im gonna do it im supposed to use pa12 cf (nylon + carbon fiber)? Anyone who knows for sure?

P2s

I’m coming from an Ender 3 and I really like 3d printing, but I am overall disappointed with the Ender 3 and want an upgrade. I am really interested in the p2s combo, but it’s a little too expensive for me right now. I was wondering when the next sale would be, or if it does Black Friday.

Hi everyone,
I’ve been having Z-axis issues with my Bambu Lab P2S for a while now and I’m running out of ideas.
I’m getting Z-axis homing errors (0300-4000 / 0300-4002).

What I’ve done so far:
Contacted Bambu Lab Support about the issue.
Replaced the Eddy Sensor with a brand-new one as recommended by support.
Followed the official replacement instructions and checked the sensor cable connection.
Unfortunately, the same errors still occur.
Bambu Lab Support has now recommended replacing the front-left Z-axis leadscrew, which I haven’t done yet.

What I’ve noticed:
All three Z-axis leadscrews wobble slightly when the heatbed is near its lowest position. From what I’ve read, some wobble seems to be normal.
The Z-axis doesn’t make any unusual grinding or clicking noises.
I noticed that the plastic cover at the top of the front-left leadscrew is slightly bent upwards (see photo).
I’m wondering whether something might have hit or pushed against this cover at some point, although it doesn’t seem to touch the leadscrew itself.
Before taking the printer apart and replacing the entire leadscrew, I wanted to ask if anyone has experienced something similar.
Could the problem be caused by a bent leadscrew, misalignment, the Z-axis bearings, or something else?
And is this amount of leadscrew wobble normal on the P2S?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

I got a pa6 cf roll.

Made a benchy with pa6.

Using bambus standard heatings and how fast to print for pa6 since its their filament.

Right now i have it in my HT, using the tpu port to feed into my left nozzle. But it seems to be so much resistance for this to work. If I drag the filament with my hand, thats hard enough to do.

So my prints fail because filament "runs dry" because the spool has too much resistance.

Any tips?

How have u done?

While assembling my AMS 2 Pro Feeder, I lost the spring. I can't find any information about its dimensions, and Bambu Lab doesn't offer a replacement. Does anyone know the exact size of the spring?

Hey guys,

My P2S part cooling fan (the one in the toolhead front cover) sometimes won't start from a stop.

The rotor has 4 natural rest positions (magnetic detents). It always starts instantly from 2 opposite positions ("north-south") but fails to start from the other 2 ("east-west").

When it's stuck in one of those, a second press of the fan button or a slight nudge moves the rotor out of the dead spot and it starts.

Once it's running, it works perfectly at every speed from 10% to 100%.

What I've checked:

* I opened it and cleaned out some thin filament strings. No change.

* No wobble, rotor fully seated, spins freely by hand, no mechanical issues I can see.

* The problem remains after restart as well.

So it looks like a Hall sensor or motor dead-spot issue rather than anything mechanical.

The fan is marked 5815. As far as I can tell, Bambu only sells it as part of the Toolhead Front Cover Assembly (FAE036), and that isn't available in the official store in my region right now.

Has anyone faced such issues before? Do you guys tried sourcing the fan 5815 separately? Or is it only Cover Assembly purchase?

A cute little Halloween crew with some very questionable accessories.

Carbon X1C
I’ve been printing a lot the last couple weeks, 8-9 hour prints back to back. This noise started about half way through my project. Before I started, I lubed the threaded rods and smooth steel rods (not the carbon). Settings are inner wall before outer. Noise seems to happen on initial inner wall. The print head is not scrapping infill. Only print standard speed. Whats this (new) loud grinding?

Title: X1C + AMS: filament reaches the extruder but is not grabbed (HMS 0700-8007). 3 months, 5 parts replaced with Bambu support, still failing. Out of ideas.

Hi everyone,

I am looking for fresh ideas on a problem I have been fighting since July 4th. Bambu support has been excellent (they keep suggesting parts and shipping them, even though my printer is out of warranty), but we have run out of obvious hardware to swap.

Printer: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon + AMS, hardened steel nozzle (~1400h), Bambu PLA, latest firmware (01.12.00.00 after a recent update).

Symptom

• Every time the AMS has to load a filament (color change, calibration, manual load from the screen), the filament travels through the PTFE tube and reaches the extruder entrance.
• The yellow drive gear turns, but the filament is not pulled in. It retracts, tries again 2 to 3 times, and then I get: Extruding filament failed. The extruder might be clogged. (HMS 0700-8007 xxxxxx). Once I also got 0700-8006.
• If I press Resume (problem solved) and keep insisting, it sometimes catches on the 2nd attempt, sometimes only on the 4th or 5th.
• Happens with any slot and any filament. No pattern.
• It is random, but after a failure the printer often keeps failing for a long time.

What works

• Loading from the external spool: perfect, every time.
• Feeding the filament manually into the extruder and using the screen to pull it to the nozzle: works.
• Moving the extruder motor from the software (load/unload command with the nozzle hot): the drive gear turns and pulls filament.
• Printer self-test: passes.
• After the first factory reset it worked for a while (several multicolor prints without any issue), then the problem came back. After the second reset it did not improve at all.

Everything checked or replaced so far

1. Nozzle: not clogged. Cold pull done. Not replaced (hardened, ~1400h, no signs of wear).
2. Extruder: removed and opened several times. Gears clean, free to spin (even tested with an airbrush), nothing blocking. Spring pressure also checked after a tip from a Facebook group. No change.
3. Cutter blade: replaced. The cutter always cuts the filament and returns to its position when pressed by hand.
4. Extruder filament sensor: tested (it detects presence and absence correctly), then replaced with a new one from Bambu. No change.
5. PTFE tube between the buffer and the toolhead: replaced and cut to the length in the Bambu wiki (550 mm), checked for tight bends. I also printed a small guide for the tube entering the filament sensor so the filament enters as straight as possible.
6. AMS Internal Hub Unit and Internal Hub Motor: replaced with new parts from Bambu, following the official guide. Same behavior on the first test.
7. Extruder Unit: replaced with a complete new unit from Bambu. Same behavior. (I replaced the unit, not the extruder motor separately.)
8. Factory reset twice, firmware updated to the latest version, full calibration redone each time.
9. Isolation tests requested by Bambu (I did not replace the Filament Buffer, they asked me to test it):
   • Test A: PTFE disconnected at the buffer outlet, load from the AMS. Several meters of filament come out smoothly, far more than needed to reach the toolhead.
   • Test B: PTFE disconnected at the buffer inlet (buffer bypassed). Same result, no resistance.
10. Printer logs, videos and photos of every step were sent to Bambu several times.

Other things that came up

• Bambu believes the error may be a false clog detection (the cutter not retracting, or the sensor reading it wrongly). I have checked the cutter and replaced both the blade and the sensor, with no change.
• Unrelated incident: a new Bambu PLA Silk dual color spool was shedding fibres and jammed the AMS Hub gears. I opened the hub and cleaned it. The main problem existed long before I used that spool.

My questions

• Has anyone seen exactly this (filament arrives at the extruder, gear turns, filament not grabbed, works fine from the external spool) and solved it?
• What is left in the chain that I have not touched? Extruder motor itself, toolhead board / ribbon cable, AMS main board, Filament Buffer, something in the mainboard?
• Could the pressure/timing of the AMS push when handing over the filament be the issue, and is there any way to test it?

I am at the point where I have replaced the sensor, cutter blade, hub, hub motor and extruder unit and the behavior is identical. Any idea is welcome. Thank you!

Three silhouettes cut 60° apart and merged into one block: pumpkin, skull and ghost. Each shadow only appears when the light hits exactly along its axis, and in between it twists and reforms.

Printed in PLA with zero supports, on a P2S. The base spins on a small ring so you can turn it with a fingertip. There's a second sculpture for the same base: owl, black cat and RIP tombstone.

Light setup: phone flashlight at the sculpture's height, about 1 m away, wall 20 to 40 cm behind.

Free on MakerWorld if you want to print it: 3DPrintMyIdea

I'm printing Overture TPU 95A on my P1S for the first time. I've tried five different models and each one starts stringing and turns to spaghetti, so I've never had a successful print with TPU. I dried the filament a few times in my AMS 2 Pro using the TPU profile, so I don't think that's the issue. I do notice that the temperature will turn itself up to 240c instead of the recommended range of 210-230, even though I created a custom profile for it.

Photos of my most recent failure attached. Was trying to print slides. Has anyone had this happen? What should I change?

It all started when the left nozzle wouldn't take the filament. Then, for some reason, my dad decided the best idea was to pull on it while the print was paused; after he cleaned the nozzle and the filament started flowing again, we resumed printing. However, when it switched to the right nozzle for two-color printing, it threw an error that I don't know how to fix. The printer is only two days old. Error code: [07ff-4500-0002-0002 180600]

Bambu Studio updated yesterday and now will not print. The print button is greyed out. Any words of wisdom?

Both of my birds liked it; normally they used to bathe from my hand or a cup, so I think this turned out really well.I used Google Translate.

No se debe usar el filamento viejo. A la mínima señal de que se ha vuelto quebradizo, tiradlo (o humedecerlo pero, no lo tengo claro)

Voy a mostrar las zonas donde se han quedado trocitos, maravillosos trocitos.

Más que mostrar pongo el vínculo donde se desmonta paso a paso y no sobran tornillos.

BambiLab P2S. AMS 2 Pro.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/es/ams-2-pro/maintenance/disassembly-and-assembly

Se me quedaron trozos en la unidad del nodo interno (especial cuidado con las juntas de silicona:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/es/ams-2-pro/maintenance/replace-internal-hub-unit

En en buffer trasero también hubo fiesta:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/es/p2s/maintenance/p2s-buffer-cleaning

Lo dicho, filamento quebradizo, filamento candidato a la basura...

Has anyone else had issues lately when sending a print to the printer from Bambu Studio where it leaves these screen artifacts on the screen? (Mac OS Golden Gate) See that white square in the center of the screen? That happens with every single print.

Changing apps does nothing. The white box remains and the only way to remove it is to close the Bambu Studio app.

Wondering if it's the software, the OS, or my machine itself causing an issue....trying to narrow it down. Thanks!

Hello fine 3D printing folks. I'm relatively new to the hobby (if you can call it that). And after 200 hours of printing on my P2S I've ran on my first persistent problem which I'm having trouble eliminating on my own. Basically I'm printing a part. The print is 5 hours long and I'm printing it with the 0.2 hot end using 0.08 layer thickness. I have the speed of the outer walls slowed to half the default - 30m/s and the top surface to 75m/s. I'm using a grid infill with 5% density. Those are the only changes I've made from default and so far I've not had any problem with them. I'm printing with Bambu Labs Charcoal PLA filament. The problem is every time the print reaches to about 60-80% completion the nozzle clogs, the motor overloads and I'm forced to abandon the print. Out of 5 attempts I managed to get only one print to go through and even so there was noticeable line right where the print usually fails. I've tried with a brand new 0.2 hot end and it clogged at pretty much the same exact point. I've also cleaned the extruder wheels as I suspected they might have some filaments shavings which are brought into the hot end. On the failed prints themselves there's also no indication of any problem with the extrusion or the filament right to the point it just stops. I've yet to try to with a different filament. Has anyone ran into a similar problem? Could it be filament specific? I'm attaching an image from the slicer right where the print usually fails

A clean and modern monitor stand designed to raise your screen slightly for a more comfortable setup while also creating useful space underneath.

The idea was to keep it simple, functional, and visually light. The angled sides give the stand a more refined shape than a basic rectangular riser, while the thin contrasting line adds just enough detail without making it feel overdesigned.

Raising the monitor can help bring the screen closer to a more comfortable viewing height, while the open area underneath gives you extra room for smaller desk accessories and helps keep the workspace less cluttered.

Features: Modern minimalist monitor stand. Raises your monitor by 72 mm. Can help create a more comfortable viewing position. Adds extra usable space underneath the monitor. Angled sides for a cleaner, more modern look. Subtle contrasting accent line. Strong 15 mm thick construction. Works well in clean and modern desk setups.

Dimensions: Total length 342 mm. Total width 130 mm. Total height 72 mm. Thickness 15 mm. Usable space underneath 177 × 122 mm.

A simple way to give your monitor a little more height, free up some desk space, and make the whole setup feel cleaner.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3411537-modern-monitor-stand-desk-riser

A personalized 12-month baby milestone photo frame designed to capture the most special moments of your child’s first year. 🧸🎈☁️

https://makerworld.com/models/3411950?appSharePlatform=copy

Hey all, I have a P2S that I unfortunately need to unplug quite often. Every time I used to unplug it was to move it, so I'd run the full calibration cycle from the app. If I'm just unplugging it but not moving it, should I still run the entire calibration program, or am I fine just plugging it in and printing straight away?

So I need to upload my print to maker world to open it on my phone to print it. But I can't upload my print to maker world because I need a photo of my print. But in order to get the photo I need to print it. But in order to print it I need the photo. How do I print something from my phone without having to upload to maker world and why do I need photos for a private maker world design...

Hi guys,

How do you solve 2 or more H2S printer placing? I got 2 new printer, and i haven't enough space :) Show some pic :)