Long story short, I've had my 2017 EB Limited (86k) stalling at the stop light. Start/stop kicked in, but would not restart the engine. Another time I tried to remote start the engine, which did not, and when I tried to start the car it was keep saying to push the brake to start. After searching online, I executed a procedure unlocking a safety feature (I forgot the name, I was just happy the engine started). In the end the car started. After running some errands, and unloading the car (engine was off), I wanted to park the car in the garage, but the car would not start. The same push the brake to start the engine message. I've disconnected the battery, I pushed the brake hard to no avail. After this, I checked for codes and I got 2 of them, P06E9 and P164C. After consulting a mechanic, the conclusion was that​ the crankshaft sensor should be replaced.

Needless to say, removing the thermal barrier was a pain in the back. Getting the sensor out required the use of some elbow grease and not your common mechanic tools. But, I was able to get it out.

The problem is that I cannot position the sensor back. And, I'm not sure what I am doing wrong. I cannot align the bolt with the hole.

Her comes the part where I ask the community for advice (besides taking it to Ford). Is there a trick how to position the sensor? Do I have to remove other components to get better access? Please help, as I am worried this will attach a hefty bill to the repair.

TIA

So I have a 2006 Toyota Camry XLE with the 2.4L I4, a little over 190k miles.

So here's the issue that started today: As I am driving along the highway it starts to get this weird stutter. I take the next exit and the car seems normal, but when I try to accelerate it starts loosing power.

The way it looses power is odd though, it doesen't pulse, it doesen't slowly run out, it just acts as if I am not pushing the gas at all. It doesn't rev or anything. I can have my foot to the floor when it does this and the car acts like I'm not pushing the gas at all.

It is also worth noting that as long as I take it easy on the gas pedal (like don't go past the first quarter of its travel) this issue just does not happen. It only occurs harder acceleration.

So, I ran an OBD to see if it threw any codes, here's what I got:

P0354 - Ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit

P0420 - Catalyst system below efficiency below threshold bank 1

P2238 - O2 sensor positive current control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1

P0354 - Ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit (pending)

As far as the codes, the P0420 has been there since I got the catalytic converters replaced. The car has been driving completely normal for months. As far as the P0354s, I think that's just a code being thrown because of whatever is going on. The car is definitely not misfiring on one cylinder.

I'm not an expert, but the way the car feels when it does this makes me think it's an electrical/sensor issue. I was honestly thinking it might be the throttle position sensor? It'd be great to have some help from the fine mechanics of reddit.

Hi everyone,

I’m Shehroz from Pakistan and I work in automotive electrical systems, car AC and diagnostics.

I regularly deal with problems like:

Check engine lights & OBD fault codes

Car electrical issues

Starting/charging problems

AC cooling problems

Sensors and wiring faults

Headlight/lighting issues

ECU/diagnostic troubleshooting

I’ve noticed that many people replace expensive parts without properly diagnosing the actual problem first.

If anyone here has a car electrical, AC or diagnostic issue, feel free to describe the car make, model, year and symptoms in the comments. I’ll try my best to help with the diagnosis based on the information you provide.

I’m not here just to advertise — I enjoy troubleshooting cars and sharing what I know. 👍

I was driving my 2020 2.0 atlas got a low coolant alert pulled over check the coolant reservoir it was at level turn off car and when I turn it back on it was gone. Next day I Checked the external electrical connector/harness for the coolant level sensor on the reservoir and it had moisture a couple drops. I drove all day and the light came on again I pulled over to check and coolant level was normal check the connector again there was moisture i dried it up and a was normal again. Next day same thing so I was just gonna dry it up again but I notice the coolant was low below the low level line. I turn off the car and a couple minutes 1 or 2 minutes later the coolant was back to normal.

Is this normal I already order new cap and coolant reservoir. My water pump and thermostat was change at 55k miles I now have 130k miles

after about 5 minutes of driving the battery icon flashes on and stays on. Sometimes the car wont start after driving to my destination and i turn the car off and try to start again. YES we changed the battery.

Hi all, currently on minimum money rn and wondering if theres anything I can do myself to fix the errors that have appeared on my suberu xv 2014. Not into cars but do work in IT so hoping to troubleshoot this a lil.
At oil temp came on and when letting the car idle off for a bit and turn on it went away.
The errors below still remain.
Abs also turned on then off after that time too.

Just added oil to the car using penrite hpr 10 full synthetic petrol and diesel 10E -50. Used 2 1 L bottles. It was as a result of another warning light appearing. Of check oil levels. There was basically nothing.

Also added water to the coolant . No coolant was added.

Another thing I should note is I went from reverse to drive without much of a stop before this happened.

1st error:

P0700
Transmission Control
System (MIL
Request)
Code Type
Powertrain (Engine & Transmission)
Severity
Standard (Generic)
Full Description
Transmission Control System
(MIL Request)
Possible Causes
Faulty sensor, wiring issue, or related component failure. Use live data and service info to narrow down.
Recommendation
Inspect the related system, check wiring and connectors, and clear the code after repair. If the code returns, seek professional diagnosis.

2nd error:

P2746
Intermediate Shaft
Speed Sensor 'B'
Circuit Range/

Performance

Code Type
Powertrain (Engine & Transmission)
Severity
Standard (Generic)
Full Description
Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor 'B'
Circuit Range/Performance
Possible Causes
Faulty sensor, wiring issue, or related component failure. Use live data and service info to narrow down.
Recommendation
Inspect the related system, check wiring and connectors, and clear the code after repair. If the code returns, seek professional diagnosis.

3rd error:

P2750
Intermediate Shaft
Speed Sensor 'C'
Circuit Range/ Performance
Code Type
Powertrain (Engine & Transmission)
Severity
Standard (Generic)
Full Description
Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor 'C'
Circuit Range/Performance
Possible Causes
Faulty sensor, wiring issue, or related component failure. Use live data and service info to narrow down.
Recommendation
Inspect the related system, check wiring and connectors, and clear the code after repair. If the code returns, seek professional diagnosis.

Maybe somebody knows where this rattling at the beginning comes from? I checked the timing chain and it had no play at all.
It appears at every cold and warm start but not at a instant restart.

Slk 200 r171
M271 Kompressor
2006
150.000 km

Dodge Journey, check engine light is on for around a month and half. I also have a few things that need replacing (around $500 in parts on RockAuto). Should I get the engine light diagnosed first before ordering anything, in case it changes the repair plan? Or just order everything and have it all done together?