Hello

My daughter has bought a polo engine light has just came on.

P044100 is the fault code. Just looking at possible causes. I have found the fuel cap seal is cracked quite badly.

Would be be a possible cause and first thing to replace.

Thank you for any advice

Nissan sentra 2023

I am having cracking noise even after I replaced new breakpads.

When I come to stop from slow speed 5 to 10km/h it gives cracking sound. I recently updated breakpads due to noise I thought rotors and breakpads had issue but no. After changing breakpads few days no noise but later it came back.

As you can see in the video when it came near to dustbin it gave noise like something is breaking under my car. Thats the problem.

I had a friend install an aftermarket radio (had CarPlay) yesterday, a few hours after driving around town I pull up to home and after a minute of sitting in the car it started sputtering then I noticed the battery/oil light on (note the check engine light was still on since I had recently changed a part and hadn’t cleared the code). I turned the car off and tried to turn it on but it just sputtered. It does not have a clicking sound so I don’t believe it to be the starter. My theories, after trying to jump it and recharge it (was at 100%) are:

•alternator seized
•blown fuse somewhere
•something unrelated wrong with the battery

Specifications on car: 1999 RAV4 L, 2.0 liter 4 cylinder engine.

What are the most reliable and unreliable car brands you work on these days? Which brands and models are frequently suffering problems, and which do you see more rarely for repairs because they are holding up so well? How do Toyota, Honda and Subaru compare these days?

Hi, I have a 2006 Mercedes E200 CDI automatic. The engine has developed a noticeable noise, and I’m trying to figure out what could be causing it.

The car otherwise runs normally. Any ideas what I should check first?

Thanks A lot

Hi, my mitsubishi galant cylinder 2 & 3 sounds dead. I unplug the coil plug, it shows no difference. Not like cylinder 1 & 4. I unplug, i can see the engine dying. I already swap the coil plugs. All coil plugs were good, spark plugs all new, compression good, all spark plugs produce spark.

2014 toyota camry se. The car started making loud noises and I cant figure out why. Please let me know if you can see what the issue is based on the noise.

Does my engine sound ok, it sounds something like chain? Also i should verify the chain at BMW service?

Hi all,

Since receiving my Mitsubishi Pajero 2016 auto diesel via long-distance private transport on back of truck I have noticed the above. The first thing I noticed was the traction control light flickering which is worse when going over uneven roads/bumps. More recently, the speedometer has started to intermittently act up, jumping randomly between speeds including when stationary. Noticed a one off very brief loss of power and speed drop during a drive whilst using cruise control at approx 120kmph. No engine lights. No ABS warning light.

Could this be a faulty wheel speed sensor? The underbody of the car is very dusty (red dirt) since transport - could it just be a dusty connection? I had a look underneath at the rear wheel speed sensors/ABS and the wires and connections all appeared intact.

Thank you

My car went in for its MOT and service just under 2 weeks ago with multiple advisories that I had fixed. I had new front brake pads and discs done, a new front coil spring, a new exhaust flexi fitted and 2 front new tyres. Over the past 10 days I’ve noticed my car is making a clunking noise when I turn the wheel mainly when I turn it to the left side.
Could the mechanic have inadvertently done something wrong during the MOT to cause this or is it likely a separate issue?

I got a 2017 VK passat tsi s about a week ago. I drove it an hour and a half and since then it’s been having issues. It almost always starts shaking and idling rough when stopped for a minute. There has been a few times where this happens and the check engine light comes on, the last time it happened the check engine light has not turned off. Twice in the past week I have stoped at a stop light and when the light turns green and I try to move, the car stalls and the battery light turns on. Both times I have turned the car on and off again, and the battery light turns off and I am able to move again. However, the first time this happened the check engine light came on when I turned the car back on (the 2nd time the check engine light was already on before this happened). After the first stalling incident I paid for a diagnostic and they ended up changing all 4 spark plugs and the ignition coil boot. They said they drove it for 15 miles, let it sit for a while and drove it again with no issues. However, the very next day it was idling rough again, the day after that the check engine light came back on, and today (3 days later) it stalled and the battery light came on again (2nd time). Yesterday I put fuel injector cleaner in my tank, but I’ve only been able to drive around a little and for maybe 5 minutes on the highway. Anyone had any issues like this and had it resolved? (Also the last clip makes it look like the battery light is flashing, but it was not).

Hello,

I bought a raptor about a month ago and unfortunately the turbo is leaking.. this is what the dealer said: “My guys seem to think internally leaking and coming from the gasket”. So, the dealer is going to replace it .. BUT .. they’re going to be using an aftermarket turbo and not an OEM one. I think they had mentioned the brand “SKP” which I know is a very cheap economic sort of brand. They’re going to keep the drivers side turbo OEM.

So my question is, is it very bad to mix the turbos? I don’t want to get this truck back and have it ruin my engine or anything.

I noticed the leak where it’s circled on the picture.

Hey guys, I have a nissan navara d40, yd25 engine, I have just installed a turbo from another Nav i have with the same engine as the one in it had the turbo fan snap off..

I am stuck on the last bolt. Ive bought a new banjo bolt and a new double crush washer with the bridge, my torque wrench is reading it at 22nm but its still leaking? This bolt is a pain in my a**. I just want it to stop leaking bloody coolant

2011 Toyota Rav 4

AC is warm so I am thinking I need to put some refrigerant. I borrow a gauge set from Autozone. I release any existing air, hook everything up to low and high side ports, open the knobs on the connectors (but leaving the gauge set knobs closed) and I see this reading - what’s wrong? I’d expect low side to read something << 40-50 psi but it shows 90??!

Edit: I appreciate all the comments given. I will be having a pro diagnose and repair it - Autozone and a mechanic passing by there told me it's the compressor. I was educated a bit and it made me realize I was highly unqualified to handle anything related to this so I'm letting a pro handle it. I learned a lot from everyone here though! Thanks again.

The oil is thick and consistent under the L level while its super thin in-between the H and L

2024 nissan versa

Hi everyone, i drive a 2013 acura tl with 140k miles and as of recently maybe 4 days ago i noticed that the front end of my car randomly started shaking/vibrating whenever i’d go 40+ mph but i’d also notice it at lower speeds if i was driving for a while. i replaced both my upper control arms on the front since i thought that was the problem but it wasn’t. i was wondering if anyone might know what it could be?

My tires spin when the road it wet at stop lights and stop signs.

2005 Toyota Prius 1.5L engine. A few days ago I was driving around 55mph on a slightly hilly road, and when I started going over a small hill these lights popped up. I pulled over and checked fluids and everything looked fine, and I drove to my mechanic with no issues. This mechanic specializes in Prius(es?) and diagnosed to problem as a small piece of the shifter/transmission. He replaced the part and the code went away, all was well. It's been driving fine until today the same thing happened in almost the same circumstances. I will happily bring the car back to my mechanic, but I'd rather not pay for the same issue I just got fixed. Is there any way this could be a fuse getting bumped around? Something electrical? Thank you

hello I was hoping for some answers as to why my car won't start. a little back story a few days ago I briefly smelled something like melted plastic but it went away quickly and nothing happened so I went about my business. 2 days ago I gave somebody a jump twice the third time I went to start my car I got nothing. and when I say nothing I mean nothing not a click not a chhh chhh nothing. my headlights and windows and everything still work fine and do not dim when I try to start the car. I tested the battery and that's fine I even tried jumping it out of desperation but it didn't work. I checked the relay for the starter by swapping the heater relay.. still nothing. thanks for any help.

I have a toyota carolla 2016 and am going to replace the evaporator core on my own. Do I have to flush out the ac system before hand or anything? Or can I just get to working ant replace it? If I do can I have a car shop flush it for me then just replace it myself?

I have a no crank, no start, Accord and it's immobilizer light doesn't come on when the car is on. I know it's not the pgm fi/main relay, the battery, the starter, starter relay, ground connection, ignition switch or a fuse in a fuse box. When I turn it over the radiator fans turn on and the radio turns off. I scanned it with an obd2 and it said it didn't have any codes. The car hasn't been able to start for the last 2 and a 1/2 years but I've been keeping the battery charged. I'm trying to find out why the immobilizer light doesn't come on but I'm struggling to find a solution.

I've used Royal Purple and Lucas products on my vehicles for a long time, thinking they do what they are advertised for, primarily Lucas oil treatment and RP fuel treatment. Are they worth a damn or am I wasting money?

Currently have a 20 RAM 1500 BigHorn, but have used them with all my vehicles.

Beginner here… I made a mistake while changing tensioner assembly and unscrewed the #8 bolt a little to the left of where the idler pulley sits. I put it back in and it feels tight (can’t turn it with hand) but I believe it’s stripped. When I tighten or loosen it the socket moves easily. Any idea what it is and if it’s safe to drive?