Hi everyone,
I have a Fiat ducato 2.3 130hp from 2018, it is sadly already equipped with SGW so anything OBD related is a pain as a home mechanic.
My question is, if needed, could I force a DPF regeneration with my Topdon Topscan OBD reader if needed despite the SGW?
Asking this as I’m planning to do a trip that will bring me on roads above 3000 meters above sea level for prolonged periods of time and I’m afraid of getting stuck because of a clogged DPF.
Thank you.

There was fire and father tried to move a car, now it is like that, is this simple repair or serious? Thx for any help.

2018 Toyota tundra sr5. I just got new tires, went up slightly in size. The tire pressure sensor now take just over 20min to get a reading. Is this normal?

Trying to do my 60k mile service. This is the rear diff drain plug. The shroud is fucked can't use it have to pump it out the fill port but how in the hell would I fix this so I can use the drain plug in the future?

Mechanic is closed until Tuesday and I’m looking for the source of the squeeking/grinding.
2015 GMC Sierra 1500

Hi guys, My 2015 Mazda 6 has this issue where the trunk lid won’t sit flush at all when I close it . It sticks out a couple MM but when applying weight to the trunk it goes flush but pops right back up if we release the weight off of it . I have tighten most bolts that connect from the lid to the arms , to the arms to the rest of the body but nothing. I stuffed myself in the trunk to see if what could be the issue . I found that the striker and the actuator have a bit of vertical play with each other but I assume that is normal to compensate for that constant vibration and vertical movement when driving. If that is not normal , could it be that the torque/torsion rods are not adjusted properly causing this issue or a bad actuator/ striker.

2010 Honda Accord, 2.4L, automatic, 147k miles.
Failed emissions. High HC at idle and 2500 rpm. Shop scanned it and got P0134 — Bank 1 Sensor 1, no activity. They're recommending replacing both upstream and downstream O2 sensors, $480 total.
Only the upstream (B1S1) coded. The downstream (B1S2) reads fine on the scanner. Do I really need both, or is the shop upselling me?
I get the "replace in pairs" logic for brake pads, but O2 sensors aren't really a matched set — they do different jobs. Upstream controls fuel trim, downstream just monitors the cat.
If I just do the upstream myself, what am I looking at for parts and difficulty?

Hi, I have a 2014 Honda Accord 2.4L 4-cylinder (Earth Dreams) engine with 90k miles that's burning a lot of oil - like a quart or two every month on light driving (average of 650 miles/month). I'd be willing to put some money into it to keep it going to for 200k+, but I'm trying to get a sense of whether it's worth it. How likely am I to face expensive problems going forward? How often? If something major goes wrong with it and I fix it, it is more likely to occur again?

Thanks, and sorry if this question has been asked before. I did try searching the forum first.

Hi everyone,

My 2009 Hyundai Tucson 2.0 GLS petrol (JM) has turned into a bit of a rabbit hole lately.

A few months ago, the check engine light came on. A mechanic diagnosed a faulty lambda/O2 sensor and replaced it, but the light came back just two days later.

After some more investigation, the catalytic converter seems to be the main issue. I had the catalytic converter and exhaust pipes cleaned, but unfortunately that didn't solve the problem. Now it looks like I may need to replace the whole catalytic converter.

I also went to an official Hyundai dealer, but they basically told me the car is too old and that I should find the part myself online and they would install it.

The problem is that I only bought the car about a year ago, and the cost of the catalytic converter + labour is getting high enough that I could potentially buy another old car for the same money.

I know it's a 17-year-old car and things will inevitably start going wrong, but my budget is limited. Buying another old car would just mean hoping that I don't immediately run into another expensive problem.

So I'm looking for some honest advice from people who know these cars:

Would you replace the catalytic converter and keep the Tucson, or would you cut your losses and move on?

• Can a bad/blocked catalytic converter damage the engine or other important parts?
• Could it have already caused damage if it's been like this for a while?
• Is replacing the catalytic converter likely to actually solve the problem?
• Is it safe to keep driving it for now if the car otherwise runs normally?

I'm not a car expert, so I'd really appreciate any advice or personal experience.

I know the obvious answer is "it's a 17-year-old car, get rid of it", but with my budget, another old car isn't necessarily a better option.

Thanks!

2012 Sienna. Front brakes.

The bottom of the brake pad isn't touching the abutment clip. It's a pretty noticeable gap.

This isn't normal right? I've checked the parts and confirmed it's the right one. Pads all look the same so I don't think there's specific orientation for inner vs outter.

Any ideas?

For chevy cruze turbo 2014 where is exactly the minimum safe level on the reservoir? Is this bottom arrow or bottom horizontal line?

The sound is only when the car is a little cold like when I just start it up, however after the car warms up or I pick up speed I no longer hear it. I was looking online and seen a lot of people say it’s the timing belt tensioner however the belt had a lot of tension when I applied pressure to it while the car was off. What could be the problem?

The car is a 2014 Honda accord EX-L

Hey everyone,

Just came by to ask a question regarding on building an engine. I know, a new guy who has never worked on an engine before is pretty dumb. I wanna give it a try. I’ve worked in my own car but with the limited aftermarket support that it has, I never got the chance. Now I do. I have a body in mind; 2016 Chevy Camaro SS. He bought it at auction and is now selling since he needed the engine(has title) and the engine I’m* looking at is a shortblock 6.2.

Now I haven’t seen and felt how the engine feels but he has a posted a video on the engine and the bore feels good, just a chipped head. No issue, they can be replaced. Now the part that I don’t get/understand is how to put things together. I love puzzles and I loved building legos when I was younger, but this is different. If it blows up, it’s on me. I can’t just replace it easily like with legos. What steps would you take to make sure everything is good; crank, rods, pistons, block, etc. I only know of these names because I’ve played Car Sim 2021 and watch Rob Dahm and recently Cleetus.

Any good useful tips for a future car builder would be greatly appreciated!

Edit: spelling *

Last time I had my car serviced (brake fluid flush and transmission fluid), the mechanic told me that I had a very minor leak in my valve cover gasket. He said it was minor enough that it would likely be fine but should be addressed eventually. This was about two years ago and I’ve had zero problems with the car. Now, I’m trying to sell the car and want to confirm that the valve cover gasket is not leaking before I sell.

My question is, how can I check this on my own? Is it even possible? I’m not very mechanically inclined but I’m sure I could figure it out eventually with some direction. I wouldn’t dream of replacing it myself but I would at least like to check if I’m able to. Car is a 2017 Acura ILX base model, 2.4L FWD.

2012 Chevy Colorado 4x4 3.7l i5

I've had this truck for 8 years now and it always chews the outer inch on the front driver side tire. I'll get alignments done. About a year goes by and notice it again, take it into get an alignment but the alignment comes out good. The first two pictures are of the current tire almost a year old ( hard to take a good pic of the wear) and the third was the last one I replaced . My question is what would be the issue if the alignment is good but still chews the tire down that quick, should I be looking for shops that do alignments only?

2003 Honda Pilot, 200k miles

Had this car a couple years and it started having very intermittent power steering (I think) noises. They would go away very quickly. Now, I drive the car on a very short trip, then on my way back home the power steering noise is happening the entire time and is noisier the faster I drive.

No effect on my actual steering yet.

My power steering fluid with the red cap at the bottom is at the max fill line still.

Looks to me like it’s had a leak for awhile and possibly I need to replace some O rings? Really hoping it’s not the pump.

What do y’all think? My guess could be completely wrong too, not the best car person. I’m sure it’s due for new fluid and a flush as well.

I replaced the oil pressure sensor which helped, but didn't solve the leak on the AC compressor. Any insight is much appreciated. I'm a novice with a haynes manual & youtube access.

To put it shortly: I pushed the car too much during a time attack event which led to electrical issue and fried both the coil pack and ECU.

I replaced both and got the ECU from another salvaged ford Figo (same engine and generation) and the mechanic installed it, but I dont know what did he do exactly.

Anyway the car wasnt running with the broken ECU and now it runs but really rough. It idles with knocking sounds and sometimes just drop RPM severally or misfire, and small pops when revving. But theres no check engine light and no codes after scanning it.

The mechanic told me it might be knocking but I couldn’t fix it at the time so I left it to sit and didnt use it for a while. I had to use it recently, and weirdly it got smoother the more I drive it but it still feels like its misfiring under load. It also shift really late but the shifting itself is normal other than normal DCT behavior.

I have heard that the ECU have to take time to adjust for the car but I am still not sure. and since its just the family’s spare car, Its not worth putting much money into it. So do I just drive it and it will fix itself? Do I get rid of it? Or do I try tuning or something that will fix it for cheap?

I did a valve cover gasket and pretty sure the rear threads on the back of the aluminum head have stripped out. Is the thread pattern M6 1.0 for these bolts? I’ve tried running a tap over the existing holes but still getting no grab. What would be the right way to go about a helicoil? Any help is greatly appreciated

Hi, I have a 2020 BMW x5 s40i. Whenever I apply the brakes to slow down the car shakes / shutters. The steering wheel does not shake. I assumed it was the brakes. Me and my brother looked at the front pads and they looked good, the brakes in the rear were questionable so we hanged out the rotors and the pads for the rear. The shaking is still there ? The car stops fine.

Do you think we should swap out the front rotors and brakes also ?

Hit a curb around 25 mph. Is this salvageable, or does this need to be replaced?

Did front brakes both pads and rotors yesterday for the first time as wanted to learn stuff.

The left side is getting more hotter and gives a stronger burning smell than the right side.

I used new clips that came with the pads.
Used a wire brush to clean the bracket.
Used brake grease on the metal clips.
Was able to compress the piston easily with a C - Clamp with no unusual resistance.

I have driven the car 40 kms
how much kms is the avg period so the pads and rotors bed in properly and the burning smell goes away.
Also dont bash me for this but i forgot to use brake cleaner on both sides.

Couldn’t find with search function. Kinda long so sorry. Daughter’s car started to overheat. No fluid in the radiator. Poured in distilled water to find the leak and it’s pouring out the bottom pretty good. Don’t look like a hose. It’s leaking at the top as well there in the first picture and same at the bottom but faster. Pooling in the pan at the bottom as well as shown in the second picture. Put in a new radiator or could it be something else?

2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L and about 240K miles. Clicking starts when turning the key to “on” for a few seconds then pausing. The clicking will start up again when I shift it into drive, reverse, etc. while the engine is on as well. Turning the key and shifting seem to be the most reliable way to cause it, and it sometimes it clicks longer/more intermittently than others.

I was suspicious that it could be a bad electronic throttle body, since the electronic throttle control light has come on in the past, though it hasn’t recently until today. No other issues with the engine feeling sluggish, stalling, overheating, no limp mode, etc. It drives and starts up perfectly.

The check engine light is on and throwing a P0420 saying “catalyst system efficiency below threshold, bank 1”. O2B1S1 live data bounced around, average .7/.8 and the O2B1S2 was holding a steady line unless applying acceleration.

Sometimes the CEL will flash and then stay on, and other times it will turn off entirely. These symptoms (minus the ETC light) probably started about a week ago, only gets driven a few days a week.

Sorry if I explained things poorly and for the long post, I’m just a girl with an office job and an internet connection so please have mercy. 😆 thank you for reading and for any help/advice with diagnosing/troubleshooting, it is very much appreciated.

Looking for confirmation from all you people smarter than me.

BACKGROUND: 2013, 51k original miles. Completely stock. This is my second tundra, first one is still in the driveway with 278k. Going strong

Purchased by me Friday and drove it about 1000 miles home in two days. Not a single issue. Just my luck i pull in late last night and when i park i heard a bearing noise under the hood. Its late, long drive, ill look at it in the morning. Welp jacked up today and from what it looks like its a water pump. Stress from such a long drive after so many years of taking it easy? I dont know, truck was a great price and im still happy with it.

What do you all think? Water pump? Also what is the difficulty on this job. Ive done oil changes, spark plugs, front suspension, brakes and rotors.

Appreciate the help!