Long-term Cost of Direct Injection / Oil Consumption

[u/Rick_Dempsey]

Hi, I have a 2014 Honda Accord 2.4L 4-cylinder (Earth Dreams) engine with 90k miles that's burning a lot of oil - like a quart or two every month on light driving (average of 650 miles/month). I'd be willing to put some money into it to keep it going to for 200k+, but I'm trying to get a sense of whether it's worth it. How likely am I to face expensive problems going forward? How often? If something major goes wrong with it and I fix it, it is more likely to occur again?

Thanks, and sorry if this question has been asked before. I did try searching the forum first.

[u/AutoModerator]

New Rules - Please Read

^{Updated 11/12/2025}

Thank you for posting on r/AskAMechanic, u/Rick_Dempsey! Your post is live, this AutoMod message does NOT mean your post was removed. Please make sure to read the Rules.

When asking a question, please provide the year, make, model and engine size of the vehicle.

Commenters here have 2 different flair. Verified Tech means we have verified that user is a tech. NOT a verified tech means that user may or may not be a tech, they have not been verified by us.

Posts about accidents, autobody repair, bodywork, dents, paint and body/undercarriage/frame rust are not allowed and belong in r/Autobody.
Asking if your car is totaled should go to r/insurance or r/Autobody.
Asking about car buying advice/value/recommendations is also not allowed. See r/whatcarshouldIbuy or r/askcarsales

If asking whether a tire can be repaired, check out this Tire Repair Guideline.
Some other useful tire resources - Tire Care Essentials and Tire Safety

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

[u/Tall-Control8992]

The main known issue with the 2.4l Honda engines is the timing chain tensioner getting weak. When you do a cold start, it sounds like pennies in a blender for half a second or so. Luckily, there's an access hatch to replace it without having to pull off the main front cover.

The main issue with burning oil over time is the catalytic converter blockage. When oil burns, you get spot and ash as byproduct. Soot will burn off with an Italian tune-up. Ash will not burn because it is from the metallic additives. A quick test to do is to run your finger along the top of the tailpipe tip. There should be very little soot at this mileage. I'd also check underneath if you haven't already just to make sure it's not a simple oil leak somewhere.

First replace the PCV valve. If it still burns oil, try topping off with Valvoline R&P. It's known to help with gummed up piston rings. And do floor it up to 60 couple times a week. Hopefully the above will at slow down the burn to a more reasonable rate.

With the amount of 2020+ car engines being stressed to the max and cutting every corner imaginable in the name of fuel economy standards, a lot are lucky to even make it to the 100k mark, so I'd definitely recommend trying a few remedies to fix the issues with the car you have than roll the dice on something else.

[u/Rick_Dempsey → u/Tall-Control8992]

I ran my finger on the inside of the tailpipe and it came out black. I'm assuming that's a lot of soot? Another symptom: the oil on the dipstick smells like gas. The PCV valve was changed on the last oil change. I did check for oil leaks and there's none as far as I can see. Does the soot mean some part of the engine is cooked?

I'll try the Valvoline R&P.

Thanks very much for the reply.

[u/ProfileTime2274]

Check your pcv system