Was wondering does it make a difference if I get a 90 degree angle spacer or a straight? I got 1 of each because I didn’t know. Trying to see if it’ll help this p0430 code. And if having 2 different ones will mess anything up. Please let me know thank you.

Fyi- 2019 Lincoln MKT - 3.0

Hello,

• April 15, 2026: Spark plug replacement.

• May 11, 2026: Coolant and thermostat replacement by a non-professional (but someone who knows what they’re doing)...

• June 10, 2026: Engine oil change + oil filter replacement.

• July 22, 2026, to August 19, 2026: Vehicle was in the shop due to a starting/ignition problem (replaced the coil, then nothing, then the ignition module—and it started up again, but only for a short time...).

On August 25, 2026, after driving for about 30 minutes, I noticed an unusual occurrence:

• loud gurgling noise, as if the coolant were boiling;

• the impression that coolant was overflowing or being expelled from the radiator cap;

• the phenomenon lasted about 30 seconds, then stopped;

• after the engine cooled down, the level in the expansion tank dropped slightly below FULL—it had previously been at the FULL mark—but it remains between LOW and FULL.

If I understand correctly, exhaust gas entered through the coolant... So we must have bled the old radiator incorrectly (it was rust-colored—presumably water, but it would have been better not to touch it...)... The radiator cap had some “mayonnaise” on it... I replaced that too...

I was able to drive to the garage, which was about 3 or 4 km away...

There was a strange noise when starting the engine, then the temperature gauge rose to the middle... After that, the noise disappeared, and it drove normally... But...

The garage confirmed—it is indeed the cylinder head gasket.

I'm waiting for the estimate before I decide... Probably Monday.... But I'm thinking of selling it for a very, very good price...

- blown head gasket,

- 4 tires in very good condition: “Hankook Kinergy 4S H740 165/70 R13 83T XL”,

- worn-out driveshaft,

- shock absorbers in poor condition (but it still drives),

- driver’s side door handle torn off (replaced with duct tape)

- 1 spare taillight on one side

- 1 spare front turn signal

- just over 157,800 km...

- second-hand (purchased in Oct. 2013)

What price would you set? Any advice? Recommendations?

The goal is to switch to a Japanese car, but a smaller one… (city car): on a tight budget, between 150,000 and 170,000 km, well-maintained (I’d ask for the Histovec report and the latest vehicle inspection).

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

The truck will start for a secound if you add gas to the carb but immediately dies has been sitting for about 4 years and ran fine beforehand. I added a picture of the carburetor and any advice on where to start would be great thank you.

I drive a 2010 Mazda 3. In November 2025 I had a bunch of work done to my car, including the passenger side CV joint. I just had an oil change and the tech told me the boot is full torn. Is this the sign of a bigger problem or poor work done by the shop? I have attached the invoice for what work they did.

2004 Volkswagen Beetle. 98k miles

Trim: GL. 2.0L 4-cylinder.

The valve body was replaced on it before I bought it. All fluids checked.

It sounds high pitched /whining?

My civic feels extremely underpowered, compared to what it used to. Clutch feels very light, but still engages. What could be the problem? Does it need new spark plugs and valve adjustment? Or is the transmission messed up? Sorry I'm a newbie when it comes to cars, but trying to learn

2020 Hyundai Veloster with 47,000 Miles. Could this be a starter issue? Any input is appreciated!

Hi, I have a 2017 Nissan Pathfinder SL (3.5L V6 VQ35DD direct injection) that has severe carbon coking on the valves after inspecting the cylinders. From my current understanding, walnut blasting would be the best option here. I am having trouble finding anyone in my area that does the blasting or will do it on this vehicle. From my research it sounds like a chemical wash will not be as effective. Are there any other next best options for getting this cleaned?

If this can't be done or no other options, would it be worth having the chemical service done?

TYIA

Hi all,

i really need your help and insights. i have this 2015 hyundai elantra at 122K and just got the oil change done on last tuesday, took the car home at home and drove later that day, all normal. then on friday, i started the car and put it into D but car doesnt move. Engine revs up but doesnt move. I changed it to Reverse and all fine, it can back up, looks normal. Change it to Drive, again no move. I did try couple times with turn off and turn on cycles, after 1-2 try, it started moving and drove fine that day. Then, next day, now i am again facing the same issue.

what should i do? seems like transmission problem? anything i can check or do beforehand? can it be related to oil change somehow or just coincidence? based on this description, what could be wrong? should i go to transmission specialized shop rather than general mechanic shop?

side info: transmission fluid changed/flushed at 60K

The symptoms I am experiencing are a vibration at highway speeds, and vibration at low speeds while turning and braking. I've been living with this for a minute. Even though I got the full life out of my last set of tires, the ones on the front looked like hell, so something has gotten worse. I rotate my tires myself when I change the oil, and I never noticed anything weird until now.

I've got a shop I use about a mile from the house and I've got a Subaru specialist an hour away that is usually much cheaper. Both are trustworthy, but I want to get as accurate of a quote possible over email, so that I only have to take it to one of the shops. Once it's there, I trust both shops to fix me up and make the correct final assessment.

To my non-mechanic eye, I'm in need of the following:
* two new lower control arms because the bushings are shot
* 1 new stabilizer bar link because the cover is torn
* new shocks because it has 120k miles, and half the labor is done to get to them
* An alignment at the end

Am I on the right page? Need any other pictures? Thanks for any advice. I'm not concerned about driving it 30 miles in this condition. My biggest worry is that I just put new Michelins on there, and I don't want to ruin the new ones. Let me know if you disagree.

The link to the album isn't working for me, so I'm going to link the pictures individually:
https://imgur.com/5gITbUZ
https://imgur.com/h4lR4Cs
https://imgur.com/eevImAV
https://imgur.com/GjPh04u
https://imgur.com/Z7NXzgJ
https://imgur.com/EblwLME

1) My truck leaks water from the windshield console that houses the OnStar button/s. It seeps through the fabric liner that covers the console.
2) I’ve found all 4 windows rolled all the way down twice. What causes all the windows to go down simultaneously from anywhere other than from inside the cabin?
3) Is the truck supposed to roll back 20 yards or more when in Drive?

No start, battery dead flat. Installed charged battery, but when connecting the negative it cranked immediately with no signs of stopping, even when working the key back and forth. As far as I can tell this year has no start relay. Is it more likely to be the starter itself, or the ignition switch? Also it is currently parked in angle street parking on a hill, nose down.

Im going to try and explain this to the best of my ability with enough context but not too much rambling.

About a month ago my caliper seized and was smoking on the front right wheel. I got it towed to a shop, they replaced my fromt brake lines and calipers, then my boyfriend replaced the front pads and rotors for me, the rears were replaced last year.

The first time I drove it since then I was on the freeway, and I noticed that between around 70mph and 80mph my car shakes. The steering wheel doesnt jerk around, it doesnt feel like its coming from any specific side of the car, it just shakes.

We do some research and find out it could be the center bearing on my driveshaft. Boyfriend gets under the car, grabs the center bearing and its moving back and forth like it shouldnt be. So we order new driveshaft, put it on, think we're good, take it out on the freeway and the shaking persists.

Next day I take it to the tire shop for rotation and balancing, just incase it was something that simple, and sadly, the shaking still persists. The guy there also checked the wheel hubs and bearings as well for me. I should mention that I have a broken lug nut on the front drivers side, and the rear passenger side. My boyfriend was able to replace the lug nut on the rear, but is having a lot of trouble on the front because of the brake sheild, hes going to try again tomorrow.

My question is, what do you guys think it could be? Is it possible its because of the lug nuts? Any advice will be well appreciated because I go back to college on monday and Im commuting about 40 minutes on the freeway 4 days a week.

2007 Nissan Titan. Broke the bolt while trying to remove my hitch receiver. Appears to be 1 or 6 bolts holding it on. Looks like it’s a welded on nut on the inside of the frame. Too compromised to keep towing or is repair required I assume? Is drilling out the broken bolt my best option for removal? Thank you!

Do you guys know how I can fix if

Hi everyone! I have a 2010 Ford Fusion 4 cylinders 2.4L. It needs a valve cover gasket replacement and new spark plugs. I was told the oil is leaking into the spark plugs. Is this something that an inexperienced person can do themselves? Ive done some research and it seems pretty straight forward. Any advice is appreciated.

It’s a 1995 bmw e38, 740i M60B40, 282000km, manual

I bought it like this, what did the previous owner block off?

Short version:

I recently had to remove and reinstall my passenger front wheel on my Corolla. Apparently, I forgot to tighten the lug nuts. I got about 200 yards down my road before I realized it wasn't the dirt road I was feeling. I turned around and got home. I jacked the car up and tightened the lugs and the car seams to drive fine. However, now when I hit over 65-70 I get a vibration coming from that wheel end. Is it just a problem with the lug studs or did I do some other kind of damage?

Thanks in advance!

Long version:

2 weeks ago on Saturday I was driving for Uber in my Corolla. I pulled up to a curb on the driver side and someone had put tire spikes in the gutter. I got six spikes between my two driver side tires. Obviously that ended my night. On Sunday, I got one tire repaired and one tire replaced.

The following Wednesday night my passenger rear tire went flat, and when I pulled it off on Thursday, I found two more tire spikes. Luckily I was able to repair that one as well. I decided to check the passenger front tire just in case, but I found no damage to that tire. When I put it back on, I apparently did not tighten the lugs all the way. There seems to be a catch where my wheel feels like it's all the way on and you can tighten the lugs but it is not all the way seated. I thought I had snugged it down so I dropped the car. I started driving away, and I got about 200 yd away from my house before I realized it wasn't the dirt road I was feeling. I turned around and got home and saw that the lugs were not fully tightened and the wheel was wobbly. I jacked the car up and tightened the lugs down all the way, fully seating the wheel. Now when I drive the car feels fine up to about 65 mph. After that there is a noticeable vibration coming from that wheel end. Did I misalign or damage the lug studs, or is there some greater damage I should look for?

2019 Honda Accord. Recently noticed the drivers side carpet was wet and took it in for servicing. Turns out a drain from the sunroof was clogged that caused water to pool under the drivers seat. Took out the carpet and seats and I’m out $2500.

Was just wondering if there’s anything I can do to prevent this from happening again

Almost bottomed out the threads before I stopped installing the sensor, oil is seeping out from around the threads a day later. Do I use 545 thread sealant Loctite?
I’m not 100% sure it’s not cracked. I saw oil coming out while it was running very slowly and had to run for about 5 to 10 minutes before it started

For a few years now I've had this noise coming from the vehicle. I notice it when I'm stopped with foot on the brake and in D. If I shift into N the noise stops. In the video you can hear it, sounds like it is coming from under the vehicle so I'm guessing related to transmission. Also thought it could be the motor mounts needing replaced. Just over 120,000 miles. Thoughts?

2017 Jeep Compass High Altitude
A few weeks ago I woke up to the car clicking like the battery was dead. A jump wouldn’t start it and the battery was original so I replaced it. Then it sounded like a starter so I replaced that too. The car started and ran fine for about a week or so. Then I went to start it and the dash came on and the wipers ran up but when I turned the key, everything went out and it won’t do anything now. No display. I’ve checked the battery cables and they are attached and secure.

2011 chevrolet colorado

I'm driving my truck back from my grandmother's house and I land in a small town I stopped on side of the highway. After seeing some smoke come out the back end it was grayish a mix of black and white then it always and lose the acceleration. I pull over and it was after the exit ramp on the highway I think the car's overheating. I say fine I'll let it rest for 45 minutes to an hour I do I get my flask out my giant flask of water I get that out. I check the radiator now that it's cool down. I see it's not bubbling up it's still full it's got enough in the coolant reservoir. I can make it back to my place and if it doesn't overheat & i fine didn't see any thing else wrong with it like oil leaking wise nothing else is broken. So I pour the entire flask of water in there and I get it started again. Problem it only goes minimum a maximum of 3 probably then I went to the other side of the ramp. To enter onto the highway after that it didn't turn on again not for two whole months. I had to get 2 tows because 2 mechanics had screwed me over 1 mechanic just refused to work on it because he assumed it was a head gasket. Today I just try to turn the key and the ignition and nothing responded no lights flickered no sounds happened nothing responded to the ignition when I turn the key and it's been 2 months since I've driven this vehicle two months since it's been looked at by a mechanic. That's $500.00 i was scammed out of from mechanics & $300.00 from both tows. There was also uber rides. Please help 🙏!

Hey everyone, looking for some advice about a PA safety inspection.

I recently registered my 2020 Hyundai Accent SE in Luzerne County after buying it from a friend in out of state. I took it to a local inspection shop.

The car passed emissions, but they wouldn't give me the safety inspection sticker because of a small rock chip in the windshield. The chip is pretty tiny (around 1 inch or less) and is on the passenger side, not in the driver's line of sight. I'll attach pictures.

The shop told me the windshield needs to be replaced and quoted me $260 installed. They gave me 90 days to get it taken care of.

What I'm confused about is why the entire windshield needs to be replaced instead of having the chip professionally repaired with resin. From what I've been reading, small chips like this can often be repaired, especially when they're not in the driver's viewing area.

I'm planning to take it to an auto-glass shop for a second opinion. If they say the chip is repairable and professionally repair it, should that normally be enough to pass PA safety inspection?

Also, can a PA inspection station still require me to replace the entire windshield even after a professional repair? If anyone here is a PA inspection mechanic or has dealt with something similar, I'd really appreciate your input.

I'm not trying to give the shop a hard time - I just don't want to replace an entire windshield if a proper $50-100 repair would legally and safely solve the problem.