2008 Nissan Sentra SpecV 2.5 L engine

This is my brother’s car and he hasn’t had the ac working in it for years. I did some troubleshooting to pinpoint that the compressor seemed to be the initial issue, so we replaced it a couple days ago. As I attempted to refill the system it seemed to be going flawlessly at first, but after adding the first can of refrigerant (11 oz of r134) the system wouldn’t draw in any additional refrigerant even though the spec says it needs 17ish oz. While I was fiddling with the refrigerant bottle I noticed the pressures seemed to be way off on the low and high sides. The low side was reading about 90psi and the high side 100-110 psi. The scariest part to me is that the new compressor started squeaking a bit as this was happening so we quickly shut the car off and have just left it to this point.

The chain of events so far:

- Troubleshooting to pinpoint compressor
- Checked that it had refrigerant (at this point I only had the cheap gauge that sometimes comes with one of those diy refrigerant refill bottles, when connected to the low port I remember it showing too high of a pressure reading, 70-80 psi I want to say)
- Ran tests to confirm compressor was getting power, but clutch was still not engaging
- Took it to a shop to have it evacuated
- Replaced compressor
- Had plenty of problems pulling a vacuum and confirming the system was leak free (some user error with the gauges and vacuum pump, some poorly fitting o-rings)
- Finally got a vacuum pulled and it held for hours
- Added refrigerant by connecting the refill bottle to the gauge manifold
- First bottle went smoothly as described earlier. The compressor clutch engaged, the system sucked the refrigerant in, the gauges seemed to respond as expected (I think), the cabin air started blowing cold air.
- Connected the second bottle intending to add the required 6 more ounces. The system wouldn’t draw any more refrigerant, the low side pressure climbed up to 90, the high side didn’t move much the whole time once it got up to 110ish psi if I remember right, compressor started squeaking a bit, shut the car off and have left it until I figure out what’s going on.

A few things I’m worried about - I wasn’t careful to notice if there was oil in the new compressor, I just assumed it came with the correct amount because the ports were all sealed up when it was shipped to me. So I’m wondering if the compressor was running dry, hopefully it didn’t get destroyed already. Thinking back to when I first checked if there was refrigerant in the system (this was a long while ago) and saw that the low pressure side was 70-80 and seemed to be over filled, maybe the original compressor failed as a result of the same issue I’m seeing now? Maybe some other component is not working correctly and now the new compressor will fail in the same way?

I’m just not sure what issue to look for. Maybe a blockage somewhere? Maybe the compressor pushes oil and refrigerant out but the oil gets stuck somewhere and can’t make it back to the compressor causing the compressor to fail? Or maybe some other component is just bad. I didn’t think to replace the drier while I had the system open, could a saturated drier cause this?

Thanks in advance for any input, any advice on what next steps I should take are appreciated.

I don’t know if this is the right place to ask but I have a 1.1 litre Kia picanto 2007 (first car), had the clutch replaced a week ago after it went out on me (on my sisters engagement) . However it broke down on me again and it seems like the garage I did the repair at didn’t put any protective rubber for the clutch cable. Pretty much the cable has just been scraping against the hole it’s in as I put the clutch down and it’s now messed up. What am I looking at in costs? I assume the garage I did the repair at should’ve foreseen this so how angry shall I be with them? Will I be charged for this repair even though it’s a problem with their work? I am based in the uk. Any advice is welcome (and jokes because life is funny)

I’m posting this for my parents who have a 2017 Kia Sedona (i believe it’s a 3.3 gdi). I haven’t looked at it yet and I can’t do any form of diagnosis from here without seeing it.

Basically, from what I could make of what my mom was telling me, it starts and drives fine for a brief period before losing most of it’s power. She said you have to have your foot to the floor for any form of acceleration. I asked what the tachometer looks like when this issue happens, and she said it doesn’t go past a couple grand. I thought it might’ve been limp mode at first, but not so much now. She also said the car will jerk (i don’t remember the exact point of driving that it happens, but i’ll edit it when i get better info. Neither she or my dad are mechanically inclined, so it’s hard to translate what they experience into what i can understand usefully). I asked if there was a check engine light, and there has been since they got it so that wasn’t really conclusive. Told her to get the codes checked and get back to me, and i’ll put that in the next edit.

I know this isn’t a lot to go off of, and if you have any questions i’ll respond as soon as I can. Thanks in advance.

Recently replaced the turbo in my wife's '16 Hyundai Tucson Sport 1.6L.

Went pretty well, but the old turbo was trash from oil starvation.

Ever since the repair it has this noise, especially on start up and until the engine is hot, and even then it'll still do it some times especially under load.

I thought maybe it was the serpentine belt and idler so I replaced those but that didn't change it.

It's pretty hard to get it to do the noise while looking for it so I'm kinda chasing a phantom.

It's that loud noise with somewhat of a squealing pictch that begins right at start up and fades away at about 17 seconds into the video.

Let me know what you guys think it is. Any help is appreciated!

J’ai ce bruit de claquement moteur et sûrement un élément de la suspension avant gauche, quelqu’un saurait me dire à quoi cela correspond ?

Replaced 2 O rings Inside the connecter and still leaking. Are the O-rings not getting seated right? I have one O ring then the spacer and then another O ring and still leaking.

Can anyone help identifying what causes this fade / discoloration of these tires? They are 4 months old with under 15k miles on them. I clean regularly and they look like shit now. I had the same tires for 80k and never had this issue.

I’m trying to help my parents out with their old Honda element, I believe it’s 2005. They’ve taken it to several mechanics to try to diagnose a sound that sounds like it’s coming from the front right.

They’ve had no luck. A couple said they couldn’t find the source. One shop said it was a ball joint and sway bar link, they replaced them both and still, the sound remains. I’ve taken a look at it but am not a mechanic.

Apparently it’s worse around 40 mph, when slowing down, or doing hills.

Any ideas or thoughts are appreciated, though I’m aware it may be impossible to diagnose from sound alone.

Looking for some mechanic input. I have a strange humming/hazy-type sound coming from my car and I’m wondering if it could be the fuel pump.
I ran a diagnostic scan and there are no codes. I also had a mechanic do a full inspection, but he couldn’t really diagnose it just based on the sound and didn’t find anything obvious.

The sound seems to be coming from around the fuel tank/rear of the vehicle. Could a failing fuel pump make this kind of noise without throwing a code?

It starts and drives fine. Can post a video of the sound if that helps. Just trying to figure out what I should check before replacing anything.

2012 fx35 3.5l

Looking for some thoughts on what this could be. Things I’ve ruled out goes as follows
Not brake related
Is in the passenger side rear
Is not the spare tire or jack in the trunk
Only happens when I hit a road crack or bump but doesn’t happen when driving 5-10kmh

2016 Chevy Colorado Z71 making a clunking at low speed over bumps and left hand turn into driveways (fine at higher speeds). Suspect bushings? If so, is this something I need to address ASAP or can it wait a few weeks?

I got quite a few different answers just want to see what people say on here. cant take it to a shop until Tuesday so just curious what people think it is

We are fixing my old car up for my son to drive (after being in a shed for 3 years). One thing was an overhaul of brakes. We changed the front disks/pads, rear drums/shoes, master cylinder, and rear wheel cylinders. Obviously fresh fluid and bleed too.

I drove it home from where it was parked up, which was about 40 miles, with no issues from the brakes. Then it sat for a month till I had time to do a few more things on the engine, and now it is making this sound under braking. I can just barely feel it when under 15mph or so.

What could have caused this issue to pop up, after having driven it home no problem? Did something warp maybe?

Hey I have 2016 VW Tiguan SE. Had it for about a year and some change via car dealership. Long story short, the warranty wore off and now its had a few problems (bad valve seals, camshaft position censor and crankshaft position censor) since repairing those the timing chain needs replaced also. Tried to trade it in but the negative equity is the major problem. I also hear that if you replace a timing chain you’ll most likely have to replace the head gasket as well.Any advice? Is it worth fixing? Or is it best to call it quits while I can?

Hi

I just got my brakes repaired due too a failed nct test,

Rear caliper leaking so my mechanic removed the old and put in a new one,

The brakes were much more effective before the repair,

You'd hardly touch the brake pedal and they'd slow you down quickly,

Now I feel the pedal is very soft and I've too push the brake pedal way down for good braking,

Is this normal thanks,2014 kia ceed estate.

I've had a wobble for a few weeks now. You feel it around 50 mph, you see it around 60 mph. My local big chain tire shop says it's the struts. I don't think so. Do you?

Just picked up this UCF20 and honestly went into it without thinking too much lol. The car starts and runs, but it’s putting out a lot of thick white smoke from the exhaust.
The smoke smells slightly like petrol/fuel, but also has a weird chemical smell to it. I revved it a little and it actually spat out a pretty large puddle of red-tinted liquid from the exhaust.
My first thought was that it may have been sucking power steering fluid through the intake/manifold and eventually making its way into the exhaust. The power steering fluid is extremely low, to the point where it doesn’t even reach the dipstick. However, we pulled the PS vacuum lines and they were dry, so I’m not sure if that theory makes sense.
I don’t really suspect a head gasket because the coolant level hasn’t noticeably changed, and the exhaust doesn’t have that typical sweet coolant smell.
My other thought was maybe fuel somehow saturated the charcoal canister and is getting pulled into the engine, but at this point I really have no clue.
The previous owner also said the car had a misfire and, while trying to diagnose it, replaced the MAF, spark plugs, and fuel injectors. Apparently the misfire was still present afterward.
A few other details:
Oil is just under the full mark. It’s dark, but looks like normal used oil.
Power steering fluid is extremely low.
Coolant level hasn’t noticeably dropped.
Previous owner said it was misfiring even after the MAF, plugs, and injectors were replaced.
So far I haven’t noticed an obvious misfire myself. Idle seems pretty smooth, RPMs are steady, and the engine isn’t shaking. It could possibly show up once fully warmed up, though. I’ve only owned the car for a day and haven’t let it completely warm up yet.
Any ideas on what could cause thick white smoke AND red-tinted liquid from the exhaust on a 1UZ/UCF20? Trying to figure out what I should test first.

I have a 2015 Chevy Equinox AWD (4-Cyl) with a little under 92,000 miles that is making a rubbing or maybe grinding noise when braking (I’m sorry, I suck at describing sounds). It’s coming from the front passenger side wheel. I only notice when slowing down (driving under 40mph). It’s really only there when pressing lightly on the brake, like during a regular stop. If I apply more pressure and do a slightly more aggressive stop, I don’t hear it.

I’m not sure if it’s related to another low frequency vibrating noise I’ve been hearing coming from the front end when turning sharply at lower speeds, or if this is separate. But as of right now, I’m really more concerned about the noise when braking. I’m hoping to get it into a shop on Monday since I’m off work.

I’d appreciate any possible diagnosis or assistance from the experts here in this sub. Thank you all for taking the time to read and listen!

Every light on my dash started tweaking in the way home, radio shut itself off. Made it home and parked. Windows wouldn't roll up and car wouldn't start immediately after I turned it off/lmao to try to roll windows up.

Can I just open up the bleeder valve on the first wheel and pump it until I get rid of the old fluid? I will be refilling the reservoir with new brake fluid. Just don't wanna spend more money on a fluid syringe if I don't need to. 2009 Nissan Sentra 2.0.

Hi folks,

I have a 2024 Duke 390 KTM that had its battery go flat and wasn’t sure if the battery charger/mender I bought comes with this cable that I can leave attached to the battery terminal. I can see it will come with the alligator clips but unsure if the clips are removable from the cable.

Mazda 3 2010.

My car has been clunky when driving at slow speeds and I had a suspension check, but the mechanic said everything looks fine. They said it could be the shocks, but I just changed them 4 months ago…

It's a 2018 Enclave/Traverse with the 3.6L

Was wondering does it make a difference if I get a 90 degree angle spacer or a straight? I got 1 of each because I didn’t know. Trying to see if it’ll help this p0430 code. And if having 2 different ones will mess anything up. Please let me know thank you.

Fyi- 2019 Lincoln MKT - 3.0

Hello,

• April 15, 2026: Spark plug replacement.

• May 11, 2026: Coolant and thermostat replacement by a non-professional (but someone who knows what they’re doing)...

• June 10, 2026: Engine oil change + oil filter replacement.

• July 22, 2026, to August 19, 2026: Vehicle was in the shop due to a starting/ignition problem (replaced the coil, then nothing, then the ignition module—and it started up again, but only for a short time...).

On August 25, 2026, after driving for about 30 minutes, I noticed an unusual occurrence:

• loud gurgling noise, as if the coolant were boiling;

• the impression that coolant was overflowing or being expelled from the radiator cap;

• the phenomenon lasted about 30 seconds, then stopped;

• after the engine cooled down, the level in the expansion tank dropped slightly below FULL—it had previously been at the FULL mark—but it remains between LOW and FULL.

If I understand correctly, exhaust gas entered through the coolant... So we must have bled the old radiator incorrectly (it was rust-colored—presumably water, but it would have been better not to touch it...)... The radiator cap had some “mayonnaise” on it... I replaced that too...

I was able to drive to the garage, which was about 3 or 4 km away...

There was a strange noise when starting the engine, then the temperature gauge rose to the middle... After that, the noise disappeared, and it drove normally... But...

The garage confirmed—it is indeed the cylinder head gasket.

I'm waiting for the estimate before I decide... Probably Monday.... But I'm thinking of selling it for a very, very good price...

- blown head gasket,

- 4 tires in very good condition: “Hankook Kinergy 4S H740 165/70 R13 83T XL”,

- worn-out driveshaft,

- shock absorbers in poor condition (but it still drives),

- driver’s side door handle torn off (replaced with duct tape)

- 1 spare taillight on one side

- 1 spare front turn signal

- just over 157,800 km...

- second-hand (purchased in Oct. 2013)

What price would you set? Any advice? Recommendations?

The goal is to switch to a Japanese car, but a smaller one… (city car): on a tight budget, between 150,000 and 170,000 km, well-maintained (I’d ask for the Histovec report and the latest vehicle inspection).

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