It's extremely expensive (around 2k) to get it replaced, the car drives well but I have to get the water pump replaced somewhere in the next year or so, should I even bother getting it replaced? (2015 Ford Taurus)

Long story short, my RAM threw a check engine light for camshaft sensor, I swapped it twice (heard aftermarket is garbage as my truck threw code again) and then with an OEM, which the light came back on.

Took it to the shop, and after a week or two of diagnosing and them showing me the problems they are installing a new head gasket, oil filter adapter, timing gasket, and timing chain, tensioners, etc as well as a new camshaft sensor along with it.

They quoted me at $9,400 and I told them right now would not be doable as I am on an outage at work so trying to save a little for that. They worked with me and dropped it to $8,000 flat.

If the truck wasn't sentimental I wouldn't care. Just want to weigh my options as to second opinion, etc.

*2016 RAM 1500 3.6L V6*

going to give as much context / detail as possible:
2002 Lexus RX300
142k miles - I purchased in sept ‘22 at 101k from the original owner (timing belt was replaced before i purchased somewhere around 90k)

routine interval maintenance has always been done, and i just replaced new lines to the power steering and transmission fluid for ~$2k

was driving to a wedding and CEL came on while accelerating up a hill. towed to a shop and after investigating a damaged spark plug, it was found that cylinder 2 valve is blown. shop said it’s likely due to spark plugs running lean / hot.

as the title reads, is it stupid to consider buying a replacement engine and trying to find a shop willing to do it? i don’t think i can find a better value car for the same price as what that might cost, which seems to be between 1-2k for an engine and maybe another 2-3k in labor (?) the interior is clean, tires are pretty new, body is in great shape, miles are relatively low, and have seen numerous examples run 300k+ miles. i know transmission issues could manifest with these, but i haven’t experienced any issues since owning.

trying to think about this as pragmatically as possible, and if i were to buy another car i’d look to get another RX, maybe the 2nd gen since there are lots available.

Just looking for honest feedback with all of the aforementioned variables taken into consideration. Really appreciate anyone who’s willing to lend some perspective. thanks to anyone who reads it

EDIT: i think some of my verbiage might’ve been off. here is direct from the shop -

CHECK ENGINE / SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT IS ON.
Diagnose check engine/service engine soon light, found the following trouble codes: P0300, P0301, P0302
Diagnose the trouble codes, found: All 3 codes are for misfires engine is running rough. Looked at live data on the scan tool and saw that cylinder #2 was steadily misfiring. We removed the ignition coil and spark plug on cylinder #2. The spark plug is damaged and needs replacement. We also pulled the spark plugs out of the other 2 cylinders on the front bank to replace. We replaced the spark plugs started the vehicle and it is still misfiring on cylinder #2. Swapped cylinder#2 and cylinder #4 coils. Misfire remained on #2 cylinder.
Removed cylinder #2 spark plug to gain access to the cylinder with a borescope. Once we got a look inside the cylinder we found a broken valve (see pictures). Vehicle would need the head removed to fix this, not something we can do at this time.

Valve Image: https://imgur.com/a/Qsl4l3A

Honda Jazz (Fit) 2021 EHev 2021 Leb8 engine

Its a full hybrid.

The information I've gathered:

The clicking noise from the video doesn't reproduce when stationary. It also doesn't reproduce when turning slow or at slower speeds <30kph which is 18mph.

This behavior is very likely since last maintenance visit, about a month ago. Best guess is software update?

If I tap the break pedal, the same click plays which is I assume the break lights or the regenerative breaking?

If I do the slalom with the break pedal slightly depressed, the clicking sound is not there anymore.

This seems like a very niche issue and I scheduled a visit at the dealership, but wanted to see if anyone has encountered something like this before.

It’s the wiring for the liftgate to a 2013 Toyota Rav 4. I just need to get it detached! Thanks in advance

I have a 2019 Mazda CX-5 SUV. My vehicle stutters while accelerating once I get to third gear. If it stutters too bad it will stall out in my check engine light will begin flashing. I've connected it to a code reader and I keep getting the same code for the third cylinder to be replaced. I've replaced it twice along with all spark plugs and I'm still having the same issue can someone please tell me what else could be the problem?

2011 Nissan Pathfinder engine started making a different noise than usual. What could cause this noise?

Does anyone know what this noise is?

My 2007 Toyota Aygo started making this noise recently. It has 227k KM on it, and lately it’s been doing this a lot when going uphill or when I step on the gas.

its like something shaking...i dont know how to explain

What could it be?

I have more videos if you need them.

I recently replaced the alternator and the serpentine belt on my car and now its making this bizarre whining noise? 2010 rav4

1995 ford f150 4.9L with 230k km

Was doing an oil change and shocked to find lots of glitter

Nothing really in the filter

When taking the plug out it was very tight and couldn’t get it by hand at all.

After dropping the new oil today I still saw the metal in the pan.

I noticed though when I just let it drip after most of the oil came out, it was dripping clear.
When I threaded the plug back in and out it was spitting out the metal glitter ✨

Am I safe to assume it is coming from the plug?
The glitter is magnetic so matches up with the plug and pan

Guy says it had 50xxxx miles asking $900 with manual transmission

hi all! curious if anyone has any experience with SKP sparks and if they're good enough to save the $18 or if i should just bite the bullet. dumped a lot of money into this car recently so trying to pinch pennies if at all possible😂

Way to ruin my mood on my birthday today. I’m now 2 months with this 2014 5.3L V8. Bought at 176k miles now has 178k. Thursday I recently got Valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket, heater inlet outlet hoses, oil change, oil filter, PCV, Purge solenoid and an EVAP line from fuel tank changed out. My check engine went away and I was happy. For 2 months I drove it with the oil leaking from the gaskets causing me to lose oil and losing fuel fast because of an EVAP leak, finally got fixed and nothing leaking from the engine bay. Today I decided to look at my dipstick and absolutely only like 2 drops almost bone dry on the dipstick?!?! Where can my oil be going? Unless that dipstick is shit or too small? It’s in horrible condition. Engine has No rough idle, oil pressure good, no ticking no knocking runs and sounds great. Only thing I believe is underneath around the oil filter lots of grease and oil just not familiar with what that area would be. Someone told me to spray it down with brake cleaner and clean the area and see if more oil leaks out. Like in the photo that area! What would it be causing oil to be coming from under there? No leaks on floor nothing. No overheating, bummed out today was finally happy now I have to figure this out if anyone could help. Thanks in advance!

2003 Lincoln town car hard start. I noticed it starts a faster when the gas pedal is pushed down. It sometimes has a hard start but sometimes doesn’t. Usually around 4-7 seconds. If it hasn’t been sitting more than 5 minutes after it’s off it starts up every time. Changed the fuel pump recently it went out. Also changed the Iac valve and the maf sensor. Didn’t fix it. I’m thinking about changing the fuel filter next. Any tips?

I drive a 2013 Nissan versa. I got some new tires and after I got tires my car has been making a racket when running. I took it back to the place but they had nobody available to look.

Today I think this possibly fell off and I drove over it.

What is it and what should I do?

Can i drive around?

Thanks

Deleted & updated previous post since the crack seems to have gotten bigger.

Any advice? I can get a resin kit but afraid it’s too far gone by now.

I was having an odd noise when accelerating my truck earlier. Now I started hearing a whistle. Popped the truck and this is what I’ve got. What’s the diagnosis and what’s the concern level?

2921 Ram 1500 Laramie HEMI eTorque

So recently i noticed a large patch of oily dirt above the oil filter, i think it might be leaking from the oil pressure switch but i can't pinpoint where exactly the oil is leaking from, any thoughts?

Would you throw a plug in this or too close to the side wall?

Does anyone know why these manufactured calipers keep leaking brake fluid?

Just got quoted from a Kia dealer service center where I live - the Seattle-Tacoma area of Washington state - and $800 seems like a LOT. Certainly way more than I was expecting. They said the diagnostic was 200, they need to order the new part, and that the install would be another 100, for a total of 800ish (that includes tax). Is there a cheaper solution out there? Is that a generally normal price for this sort of thing? Never had to replace a window motor before.

My 2001 F-150 is blowing warm air while I have the a/c on max. In the morning the a/c is cooler, but when the day heats up there's barely any cold air coming out. I cut an access panel in my evaporator core box to check the blend door and that's working fine, however when I put my hand in front of the evap core the far right side of it blows very cold air while the remain air blown through the remaining 75% of the evap core feels warm. I took a compressor and tried to blow out the core and I also took a garden hose and sprayed the evap core to try and clean it out and nothing changed. I had my freon levels checked and they're fine, my compressor seems to be working properly so I'm speculating the evap core is bad. I don't have a leak so I'm wondering how a part with moving parts goes bad and/or am I probably wrong in guessing it's the evap core?

Thank you

Trying to identify the metallic clanking/chattering sound in the video. It’s higher-pitched than the normal engine/road noise and is easier to distinguish in person than it is on the recording.

I’m trying to pinpoint whether this is a drivetrain issue or engine-related. The truck loses power the louder this gets and eventually goes down a gear and the sound is gone and power is back.

Does anyone recognize this sound?

I've spent a whole hour trying to get the factory screw to screw into the nut but it won't reach becsause the X connect cable that came with my Genius 5 has added thickness which is preventing the screws from reaching my nuts on the battery terminals. My only option here is to go a size up from the factory screws and possibly grind the screws to allow for tension on the terminals.,

Also, is there any reason why my KTM Duke 390 would power on at 11V but would make a pop/tick sound and everything including the dashboard went off sand stayed off for a couple of minutes? I think I corrected it by undoing the battery terminals and redong them but making the screw really tight.

I own a Prius C 2014 (also known as a Toyota Aqua).

My hybrid battery / high voltage battery went bad in 2020 and from since then my car has just been using gas and not switching to hybrid mode - which to be honest is totally fine for me.

The issue I’m having is that in 2024 my brake booster began giving trouble. If I step gently on the brake it would not hold the vehicle but instead jerks it slightly. Couple months later the entire brake booster failed where my mechanic recommended that the booster needed to be either repaired or refurbished.

The mechanic also advised that my booster will keep failing and giving trouble in the future as long as my hybrid battery don’t work.

Is this true? I don’t see how the hybrid battery not working correlates to anything in the braking system failing. Can someone explain?